What's the Difference Between Organic and Biodynamic Wines?

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

The impacts of climate change now shape the long-term future of every vineyard and winemaker around the world. Savvy customers increasingly expect greater transparency on where and how the grapes are grown, and what goes into their favourite bottle of wine.

Modern commercial winemaking often depends on monoculture, rows and rows of vines lacking the biodiversity to cope with pests and disease outbreaks. To maximise crop yield, chemical fertilisers and synthetic pesticides are sprayed to protect the vines from pests, with industrial herbicides to maintain the land. The grapes are then harvested by hand or with mechanical equipment and processed using sulphites, enzymatic stabilisers, added sugars; the list goes on….

The industry standards and regulations around conventional wine making and labelling vary from country to country. We see ‘contains sulphites’ on the bottle but beyond that it’s often not possible to determine what farming practices have been used, or what and just how much of it has been added within the winemaking process. Above all, you are not able to tell what pesticides have been used on the vines/grapes and soil.

Fundamentally, soil health and biodiversity are everything - the quality and essence of the wine that takes you back to where the vines are tendered. You cannot make outstanding wines from mediocre grapes grown on over-farmed and depleted sites.

Next, we travel to Tuscany in Italy to find out more about how things can be done differently.

Fattoria La Vialla, Toscana 

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

Outside Florence and Siena lie the rolling hills of Tuscany. For those in the know, venture further south towards Arezzo (the stunning location of Roberto Benigni’s Life is Beautiful). En route lies over 1,600 hectares of fields and forest owned and managed by Fattoria La Vialla, a family-run farm and wine estate.

This Fattoria (farm and wine estate in Italian) has been practising organic and biodynamic farming and winemaking since 1978. The estate produces its own wine, extra virgin olive oil, pecorino cheese, appetisers, sauces, pasta, vinegar, honey, biscuits and more - directly from vineyard to bottle, from vegetable patch to jar.

Their wines have received multiple awards in the past decade, including 159 alone in the first half of 2024! They have a multitude of mouthwatering farm produce and their farm diaries @fattorialavialla are well worth following. Their holistic and regenerative approach to agriculture and farming even extends to a growing range of biodynamic, Demeter-certified face and body care products made from upcycled olive water from their olive oil production, as well as dietary supplements. But this begs the question, what are biodynamic and organic products? Let’s find out more…

What are Organic Wines? 

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

For over 45 years Fattoria La Vialla has cultivated its land using organic methods, but what do ‘organic viticulture’ and ‘organic wine’ mean?

Organic wine is wine produced with grapes from certified organic agriculture and only small amounts of a few additives and adjuvants are allowed, all of which must be of certified organic origin. A key point of organic production is the much lower quantity of sulphites used, compared to wines produced with conventional methods. The accepted limit of sulphur dioxide is 100 mg/l for dry red wines (versus 150 mg/l of conventional) and 150 mg/l for white and dry rosé (versus 200 mg/l of conventional).

The Italian word “biologico” for organic comes from the Greek “bios”, meaning life. Based on national and EU regulatory frameworks; to be awarded the logo “BIO”, a farm must undergo a three-year transition from conventional agriculture to a system that requires no chemicals used for pests, weeds and pathogenic organisms’ control. The use of GMO products is also prohibited.

To be labelled ‘organic wine’ with the Euro-leaf symbol, both the viticulture and winemaking processes must comply with very specific legal requirements, besides the general regulations for all wines. The label must also include the identification code of the certification agency. To maintain this status, farms are subject to annual inspections on traceability from vineyard to bottle.

Organic viticulture is not simply a business or ecological choice. Vines are self-pollinators that depend on wind. So, if your neighbouring farms or vineyards do not operate by organic standards, it would be a practical challenge to gain certification.

What are Biodynamic Wines?

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

Biodynamics is derived from the writings of the spiritual philosopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, who saw the farm as an ecological whole: not just rows of grapevines but the soil beneath them—a living ecosystem—and the other surrounding flora and fauna, growing together to the rhythms of nature and the cosmos.

As suggested by the name, biodynamic wine is closely related to biodynamic agricultural practices, a discipline much closer to philosophy than science. The key differences between organic and biodynamic wine are based on a holistic view of cultivation.  Biodynamics takes the concept of organic agriculture further, striving for synergy with nature and its cycles. Therefore, any wine produced with the biodynamic discipline comes from grapes cultivated following the lunar calendar, with pruning, irrigation and harvesting practices taking place on specific days. Harvest by hand is also a prerequisite.

Biodynamic wine is very similar to organic wine, but not subject to EU regulations. Its labelling also requires certification, the most common by Demeter. Besides prohibiting the use of all pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilisers, certain biodynamic ingredients such as cow horn manure and cornosilica made according to specific prescriptions have to be applied by the lunar calendar. These requirements are more stringent than those for organic certification.

In addition, only glass bottles with non-plastic closures can be used and the level of permitted sulphites as compared with organic wines are reduced further to 90mg/l for whites, 70mg/l for reds, and only 60mg/l for sparkling wines.

At Fattoria La Vialla, all farming practices are biodynamic with over 832.66 hectares of land having obtained Demeter certification and the remainder of the land undergoing conversion. Besides their organic and biodynamic certification, all La Vialla wines are vegan and La Vialla has also adopted the “La Vialla’s Method”: a way of being and of doing things, which pervades the hearts of all the “Viallini”, both staff and family, with the shared mission of respecting people, animals and the Earth.

Now, let’s taste our way through some great organic and biodynamic wines from Fattoria La Vialla:

Sparkling Wine

"Mussantino Selvatico Rosé" 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

Made with 100% Pinot Nero, its deep fuchsia pink is bound to raise eyebrows in the bottle or glass. Despite it being a sparkling wine, you’d need a corkscrew! The gentle fizz comes with a bouquet of ripe strawberries. It’s a bone-dry easy drinking aperitif that is versatile with summer salads, smoked salmon and bresaola. Summer party crowd pleaser.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £11.75 each in a case of 6

Cuvée N2 Metodo Classico Millesimato 2016

Image credit: Will Wong

It’s pale appearance almost disguises the fact that this Traditional Method extra-Brut sparkling wine is a Blanc de Noirs made with 100% Pinot Nero. Multi award winning and best of show at Vinitaly, this Blanc de Noirs is aged for 64 months on its lees (secondary fermentation in the bottle like champagne). It has notes of elderflower on the nose and is crisp but soft on the palate. Allow a little time for it to open up and serve between 6-8°C. Pairs well with baked sea bass, steamed broccoli and Jersey Royal potatoes.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £24.95

Still White Wine

Vermentino di Maremma Toscana D.O.C. 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

Lesser known and often forgotten, Vermentino is more often associated with Sardinia or Corsica. A light-bodied wine that can be as deliciously complex as some Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were harvested from Viallino vineyards in the Tuscan Maremma close to the sea, giving the wine crisp citrus acidity with a flinty and saline character. Perfect companion with pesto, white fish and seafood dishes. It works wonders with dim sum such as prawn dumplings, ‘shumai’ and spring rolls.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £8.65 each in a case of 6

Pinot Grigio I.G.T. 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Blended with super ripe grapes from two sites, this unfiltered Pinot Grigio is bottled with the lees which you might find at the bottom of the bottle. This extends its bottle life if stored in darkness away from heat; and gives the wine extra texture over time. Chill the bottle upright in the fridge if possible.

Once the cork is drawn, you will be seduced by its lush tropical nose packed with peaches and nectarines ripened in the Tuscan sun. On the first sip, the wine is bone-dry with a slight tangy long finish, much like some funky ‘natural’ wines. Great companion with Caesar chicken kebab and aubergine. Best enjoyed with shellfish and crustaceans, either raw, steamed or grilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14%
Find here: £9.60 each in a case of 6

Still Red Wines

Casal Duro I.G.T. 2020

Image credit: Will Wong

Aged for 24 months in barriques, the deep ink in your glass looks serious. Yet, its vibrant cherry nose and youthful soft tannins make this unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blend very accessible now, with further cellaring potential of at least five years. Medium-bodied and robust, this multi-gold-award winning wine stands up to grilled red meat or roast beef with ease. Italian fares such as lasagne or tomato-based pasta and pizza are waiting.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £16.55 each in a case of 6

Cortona Syrah D.O.C. Riserva 2019

Image credit: Will Wong

As seen on the Impressionist painting on the label, the historic and scenic town of Cortona is perched on a hilltop where some of the best Syrah grapes are grown nearby. 2019 proved to be an exceptional vintage. Some of the harvest were aged in Slavonian oak with the rest in used 500-litre tonneaux barrels for 24 months. Once blended, the cuvée remains in the bottle for another year to soften the tannins.

In high summer with temperatures over 25ºC, it’s worth chilling the bottle before decanting at least an hour ahead of serving to let the wine breathe and open up. The result is an inviting cherry perfume nose followed by a dry black peppery long finish. Pair with any hearty red meat or winter stews. It even works with bitter dark chocolate!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £16.60 each in a box of two

Podere La Casotta I.G.T. 2018

Image credit: Will Wong

The beautifully illustrated front label gives us a glimpse of the picturesque landscape; with the once abandoned and derelict 18th century ‘podere’ (farmstead) facing a semi-circle of majestic cypress trees. Restoration began in 2002; together with planting varietals that are blended in this flagship red.

Three of the five grapes in the blend, including Sangiovese that makes Chianti famous worldwide, are left to dry out lying on racks in well-ventilated dry rooms until December. They are then combined with the other two already in fermentation. This process is called ‘appassimento’ and it creates a greater concentration of colours, aromas and flavours in the wine. The final blend is aged in barriques for 24 months, followed by 6 months in casks and a further 12 months in the bottle.

Decanted an hour ahead, the lovely herbal nose will take you up the hillside forest. It’s delicately smooth and balanced with soft tannins and dark fruits. Any underlying sweetness is restrained leading to a moreish fine red perfect to drink now and will age gracefully over 20 years if cellared with care.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £25.25 each in a box of two

Sweet Wines

Vin Santo 'Occhio di Pernice' Riserva D.O.C. 2015

Image credit: Will Wong

The ‘Liquid of Saints’ is hailed as the Prince of Tuscan dessert wines and won best of show at VinItaly with 96 points! Being a Riserva, the Sangiovese and Malvasia Toscano blend must be aged in small Caratelli (oak or cherry) barrels for at least 7 years. The concentrated sugar gives this honey nectar an ageing potential of 20 years. Enjoy at 15ºC on its own, with crème brûlée or strong cheeses.

Size: 500ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £19.40

Respect for the Earth does not have to break the bank for us consumers. Fattoria La Vialla delivers your order without middlemen at very competitive prices. Giuliana and Piero Lo Franco began pursuing their dream of restoring the abandoned farm over 46 years ago and now their sons - Gianni, Antonio and Bandino – continue to run Fattoria La Vialla whilst being inspired by the idea of good, healthy food, and the protection of nature and its fruits.

Promoted from ‘carbon neutral’ to ‘climate positive; by the Nature Office of Italy in 2020, Fattoria La Vialla is a totally eco-sustainable, “climate positive” farm and wine estate. La Vialla hasn’t stopped here though, as in 2022 the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), together with the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO) chose Fattoria La Vialla as one of the #GenerationRestoration actors for the United Nations Decade on Ecosystem Restoration. The aim of the programme is to create a global movement to prevent, halt, and reverse the degradation of ecosystems, in which sustainable and regenerative agriculture plays a key role. We don’t know about you, but we can’t wait to see what Fattoria La Vialla does next!

Have you ever wondered what unfiltered wines taste like, or if it’s safe to drink the ‘bits’ floating in your wine, if so, click here. For those looking for some perfect pasta and wine pairings look no further than here.

By Will Wong

Around the World in 12 Pinot Noir

Image credit: Deutsches Weininstitut

Pinot Noir

The Diva or ‘heartbreak’ grape from Côte d’Or in Burgundy owes its French name to the black pine cone shaped clusters. It is thought to originate from the first century and predates Cabernet Sauvignon by at least a thousand years. Not many grapes could claim Hollywood theme as seen in the 2004 cult film ‘Sideways’; in which Miles (played by Paul Giamatti) ruminated why he is so obsessed with Pinot Noir:

“It’s a hard grape to grow. It’s thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It’s not a survivor like Cabernet which can grow anywhere. Pinot needs constant care and attention … they can only grow in these specific tucked-away corners of the world; and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it … only somebody who takes the time to really understand Pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression … its flavours are just the most haunting, brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.”

The early ripening Pinot Noir is extremely sensitive to terroir (both geography and micro-climate). So much so at a parallel tasting of two 2014 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast in California (East Ridge vs West Ridge), they couldn’t be more different.

Planted somewhere hot, it will ripen too fast and lose all the intricate flavours and nuances Miles is mesmerised with. When done right, Burgundian Grand Crus still set the benchmarks of excellence. Pinot Noir is rarely blended for still wine, except in champagnes with chardonnay and its cousin Pinot Meunier. 

Image credit: Vins de Bourgogne

Due to the scarcity of land across Burgundy suitable to grow Pinot Noir, and a distinctive constraint in maintaining high quality with low yields on the slopes, many top growers produce very little Bourgogne and good co-operatives are rare. In Burgundy it is the vineyards that have been classified, not the producers as in Bordeaux. The classification is broadly very accurate which divided the land into four ascending grades, Bourgogne, village, premier cru and grand cru with sky-high prices to match.

A tip is to follow the grower, not the Appellation.

A fine Burgundy red is distinctive with its light ruby appearance, that unique raspberry and earthy bouquet, tarty acidity with low tannins, and refreshing lightness when served at the right temperature. Yet, it can be difficult to know what to expect. Etienne Grivot suggests that terroir is like a music score and the grower is like the conductor, with many and varied interpretations possible.

The 2015 vintage of Musigny, produced by the renowned Domaine Leroy, will set you back £175,000 a bottle before duty and tax. It is hard to find a decent entry level Burgundy red for under £15 in the UK. It might even be more challenging to decipher the complex labels and keep up with the vintages. Fortunately, growers in Germany, New Zealand, Oregon and the coolest corners of California, Australia and now England are developing their own authentic styles as we shall explore below.

Food Pairing

When it comes to food pairing, Pinot Noir is the perfect match for duck, game, roast beef, lamb or pork, and steak tartare. With its relative high acidity and natural earthiness, it complements mushroom and tomato based dishes. It will feel at home with Japanese cuisine such as teriyaki and yakitori.

Whites are naturally served with fish, but a lightly chilled Pinot works wonders with monkfish or seared tuna steak. And if you like cauliflower cheese, a simple red Burgundy with its acidity cuts through the super-rich and creamy cheese sauce, turning a simple meal into elevated pleasures. Or how about the more fanciful Beef Wellington? A Pinot from the Willamette Valley in Oregon is just the ticket.

A less obvious gastro affair revealed in Victoria Moore’s ‘The Wine Dine Dictionary’ suggested by Nigel Greening of Felton Road, Central Otago, New Zealand is sipping Pinot with potatoes roasted with thyme; or udon baked with cream and black truffle!

Image credit: Will Wong

International Pinot Noir Day: 18 August

Shrouded in mystery, no one seems to know for sure why 18 August each year is designated to honour the Diva grape. But that should not stop us from tasting around the globe, with a range of Pinot Noir from twelve regions across nine countries; from Australia to Wales. Seat belts are entirely optional!

They share the fundamental characteristics of Burgundy but that’s also where the similarities end. No two are alike. We travel from the UK High Street to specialist independents offering value-for-money alternatives; including a few organic and biodynamic unfined and unfiltered options.

Above all else, Pinot Noir should be served on the cool side between 14-16ºC. In high summer or even indoors during winter, it’s best to chill the bottle for at least 30 minutes before serving. It is not one to bake in the outdoor sun whilst cooking your favourite BBQ on the patio. Beyond 20ºC, it is very likely to lose its pronounced bouquet, tasting flat if not lifeless. Very few reds will so demonstrably be resurrected when lightly chilled before serving.

AUSTRALIA

Giant Steps Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2022, Victoria

Image credit: Will Wong

Australia is best known for its legendary Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra or Margaret River, or Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. Much lesser known is her first great cool clime Pinots from the Yarra Valley, northeast of Melbourne in the state of Victoria. The landscape here with its gullies, folds, hillsides, and valley floors undulates so unpredictably that vineyards face all points of the compass. Most of the valley enjoys cool nights, with the nearby Southern Ocean evening out the differences between day and night temperatures. 

Giant Steps was founded by the Australian wine industry pioneer Phil Sexton, who ventured from Margaret River to Yarra Valley to find the ideal site to cultivate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of purity and finesse. Phil found his holy grail near Gruyere in the Sexton vineyard, which he planted in 1997 on the steep slopes of the Warramate Ranges. A mad jazz fan, Phil named the winery after John Coltrane’s album and fitting metaphor “Giant Steps.”

The 100% hand-harvested 2022 fruit was high quality but low yield. Winemaker Mel Chester favours low-intervention, using wild fermentation with eight months in 10% new French oak. The wine was bottled by gravity without fining or filtration.

Darker than some of the other Pinots on our flight, this is a medium-bodied wine of substance. Sour cherries dominate its nose. Robust with medium cellaring potential. More suited as a gastro wine and extremely moreish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £30.00 London End Wines

CHILE

De Martino Reserva Legado Pinot Noir 2022, Limarí

Image credit: Will Wong

In just two decades, Chilean Pinot Noir plantings grew exponentially from around 400 hectares in 1997 to over 4000 today. The grape being notoriously difficult, quality has also improved substantially. Valle del Limarí north of the capital Santiago is right by the Pacific coast. Its limestone soils convey a chalky and mineral expressions in the Pinot.

This is from a selection from the famous Talinay Vineyard, planted around 2008 on the calcareous hills of the Coastal Range in the Limarí Valley, about 13 kilometres from the sea. It spent 12 months ageing in barrels, resulting in a very pale crimson cherry juice with fine tannins and a medium finish. Serve with charcuterie or roast chicken.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.99 Waitrose Cellar

ENGLAND

Riverview Crouch Valley Pinot Noir 2021, Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

Crouch Valley in Essex, southeast England is hot wine property. Here, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. The River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. In 2018, they converted 4 hectares /11 acres of family arable land on gentle south-westerly slopes in the village of Hullbridge facing the River Crouch into a vineyard. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay featured here. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Probably the most mercurial amongst the twelve Pinots here. Never judge a wine by its colour in the glass. Its pale ruby defies the actual substance of their debut Pinot Noir, aged in French oak for 12 months. Dark cherries on the nose with high tart acidity and low tannins. Somewhat Burgundian in character and complexity that pairs beautifully with mushroom risotto. 

Very sensitive to temperature change. Must serve cool (14-16ºC) to savour its freshness. On the hottest day of the year in England to date (34ºC on 12 August 2024), the last third warming up in the decanter was poured back into the bottle and quickly re-chilled. The wine was resurrected after 15 minutes. Try it.

This is one wine that should further develop in bottle over the next 3-5 years if stored correctly. Grab a few out of the 900 bottles produced, and report back in 2027!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00 Riverview Crouch Valley

FRANCE

Burgundy - Definition by Majestic Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020

Image credit: Will Wong

The Definition range brings the world's greatest wine styles to Majestic customers. A new addition to the refreshed range, this Bourgogne is made by Doudet-Naudin, one of the oldest local and well-respected Maison, founded in 1849 by Albert Brenot in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Winemaker Christophe Rochet blends grapes from two large plots in the south of the Côte de Beaune, using traditional methods to make a wine with unmistakable Burgundian charm. Aromatics of ripe blackcurrant and cherry are followed by flavours of fruit and spice, and velvety tannins. A natural match for poultry or meats, including sausages, veal escalope, mushroom dishes and pâté. Accessible and good value for a Bourgogne. Oh là là!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £19.99 or £17.99 Mix Six, Majestic

Jura - Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

To the east of Burgundy where France rises towards the Alps bordering Switzerland lies the tiny and remote region of Jura, not to be confused with the Scotch whisky. Côtes du Jura is renowned as a gastronomic locus for food and wine pairing. Welcome to the bijou region for organic and ‘natural’ wines in eastern France. With high demand and low supply, Jura wines are rarely seen on supermarket shelves. 

Mother of three, Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet is one of the few female winemakers in the Jura. She took over her family’s wine estate in 2008 and manages her 4.5 hectares from vine to cellar door herself. Located in Château-Chalon, the most traditional part of the Jura, her reds are carefully sorted at harvest and manually de-stemmed before going into CO2-filled tanks to avoid using SO2 at bottling. No oak is used, resulting in a deliciously full-fruit flavour with a touch of CO2  that disappears with some aeration.

She is very keen to keep the estate small, so she can take care of the vineyards personally, and everything is worked in a sustainable way. The atmospheric cellars at the farm are full of old wood from large foudres down to fûts and feuillettes.

Besides its signature bottle shape with JURA embossed across the shoulder, this Pinot is super-fresh when lightly chilled. For such a young wine, its medium body retains a firm structure with soft tannins. Layers of subtle minerality with a long savoury finish. Excellent with Parma Ham and Peaches with a dash of Balsamic Vinegar. Summer in a bottle.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £28.10 Les Caves de Pyrene

GERMANY

Pfalz - Walt Pinot Noir 2020

Image credit: Will Wong

Situated to the south-east of Frankfurt, the Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine region: a long stretch of vineyards north of Alsace in France forming the Deutsche Weinstrasse, the most famous of all German wine routes along the sunniest and driest part of the country. With the region sheltered by the Haardt mountains to the west, the climate is very similar to that of Alsace. Although Riesling dominates here, we are exploring the sublime yet underrated Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir in German).

Back in 1897, in Wiesbaden, the firm Walter S. Siegel GmbH was started by its eponymous founder. Having acquired vineyards in Westhofen in Rheinhessen, the company was formed to sell his own wines, as well as various prestigious estates in other regions. In 1937 Herr Siegel’s son, Hans, formed Walter S. Siegel Ltd., in London with England Test Cricketer Ian Peebles through which they imported wines from Germany and France.

Light garnet in colour, this easy-drinking Pinot Noir opens up with beautiful aromas of baking spice, strawberry, raspberry, and blueberry. Hints of forest floor and earthy mushrooms. The palate has layered flavours of hearty berries intermingled with savoury notes of spice and minerality. The structure creates an interesting texture that finishes with hints of anise. Pairs well with richer chicken dishes, soft cheeses or tomato-based pasta dishes.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £12.99 Adnams 

Württemberg - Schnaitmann Steinwiege Pinot Noir 2017

Image credit: Will Wong

Despite being Germany’s fourth-largest wine producing region, Württemberg is much lesser known abroad. It has a continental climate that constraints where best to plant vines.

Known as the "Prince of Württemberg”, Rainer Schnaitmann is one of the most respected Pinot Noir producers in Germany. Founded in 1997 with a simple vision, Weingut Schnaitmann is a family-owned winery known for crafting precise and high-quality wines that express the unique terroir of Württemberg. This commitment to detail and sustainability defines their winemaking philosophy.

Organic and Biodynamic, it has a distinctive Burgundian earthy nose revealing sour cherries, blueberries and cassis. For a change, serve this a little on the warm side (16°C). On the palate, it is a little savoury and smokey with silky tannins, suggesting further cellaring potential. Smooth with a long finish. Perfect with German pork knuckle or Black Forest ham with sauerkraut. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £29.99 The General Wine Company

NEW ZEALAND

Framingham Nobody’s Hero Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough

Image credit: Will Wong

A small country in terms of population and relatively isolated geographically, New Zealand (NZ) has become a global wine trade export powerhouse in just fifty years. There are many small-scale vineyards with no wineries of their own. Contract winemaking is big business here. 

It was Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough on the northern tip of its South Island that put NZ wines on the world map. Pinot Noir is the most important red wine grape that is mostly planted in Martinborough on the North Island, and Marlborough, Canterbury and Central Ortago on the South Island.

The original vineyard was established in 1981, by Wellingtonian engineer Rex Brooke-Taylor who took the name ‘Framingham’ from his ancestral home town near Norwich, England. This Marlborough winery takes pride in doing things a little differently. Their approach to winemaking is inspired by those who step out of the mainstream, be it music legends, artists or winemakers.

Framingham hosts an outdoor rock concert every year, the Framingham Harvest Concert with an audience of 450-odd people. Up and coming bands from New Zealand take to the stage, including Renwick Nudes the local winery band. Originally a wine cellar and wine library, “Framingham Underground” is now home to pop-up gigs, art exhibitions and a band room where Renwick Nudes practise.

Sour cherries on the nose with intense fruits. First sip: this is bold! Best served lightly chilled and decanted an hour ahead. It took time to open up. Good structure with hints of chocolate mid-palate. Pair with seared tuna steak.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £17.99 or £12.99 Mix Six Majestic

ROMANIA

Încânta Pinot Noir 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Despite its Soviet legacy, Romania shares closer cultural affinities with France than its neighbours. Its Pinot Noir was popular abroad in the 1980s and 90s; but did not appeal to Romanians themselves, who prefer their reds big and dark.

In 1988, three families decided to revive the former state-owned 700 hectare Cramele Recas Estate with a 20 million Euro investment. Today, Englishman Philip Cox and his Romanian wife, Elvira co-own this state-of-the-art winery that over-delivers. 

Produced for Majestic UK, Încânta is the Romanian verb meaning to enchant, charm or delight. This value-for-money Pinot punches way above its price point – and the 2020 vintage was awarded 90 points by Tim Atkin MW. Serve straight out of the fridge. No need to decant. Enjoy this light and ready-to-drink summer beauty with notes of fresh black cherry, raspberry and cinnamon. Try its juicy flavours with a classic charcuterie board.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £9.99 or £7.99 Mix Six, Majestic

UNITED STATES

California - Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2022, Santa Rosa, Sonoma County

Image credit: Will Wong

Over 80% of all North American wine is grown in California (CA), more wine than in any country outside Europe. Across swathes of the huge CA state, summers are much drier than in Europe. Rainfall is concentrated in the early months of the year; topping up the reservoirs essential for summer irrigation. As autumn rains are unusual, the long ripening season contributes to the potency of CA wines in both flavour and alcohol level. 

Whilst CA is famed for the bold and long-ageing Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, Pinot Noir thrives in the cooler coastal vineyards north and south of San Francisco. Up to 80% of the Pinot grapes in this Kendall-Jackson wine were sourced from Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties. 

Founded in 1982 by Jess Jackson (1930-2011), a San Francisco lawyer and billionaire wine entrepreneur, Kendall-Jackson’s Chardonnay won the first-ever Platinum Award for an American Chardonnay at The American Wine Competition. He was also one of the first winemakers to introduce varietal-specific wine to America, raising public awareness on wine and making it more affordable.

Since then, Kendall-Jackson has been championing environmental sustainability from energy efficiency to waste management and conservation. In 2019, together with Familia Torres of Spain, Kendall-Jackson co-founded the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) to decarbonise the global wine industry. 

Barrel aged in French oak for 8 months, this Pinot Noir has expressive hints of toast, vanilla, and cedar aromas. This dark garnet wine delivers bright cherry, strawberry and raspberry aromas with cola and mild spice accents. Pair with fillet mignon, a stacked burger or cheeseboard.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Find here: £19.99 or £17.99 Mix Six. Majestic

Oregon - Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley

Image credit: Will Wong

If there is a corner in the Pacific Northwest that resembles Burgundy’s climate, it is the Willamette Valley in Oregon. The Coast Range to its west acts as a buffer, letting Pacific clouds and humidity wash across the vineyards in cool summers and damp autumns. These micro-climate influences lead to earlier maturing Pinots compared with their European counterparts, but earthier and often more complex than those grown in other New World regions.

Their story began in 1971 when Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser planted their first vines in Dundee Hills. This 128-acre site is blessed with a high altitude and warm nights, and red-tinged volcanic soil with good drainage, and exposure to rainfall and light crucial to optimum ripeness in cloudy Oregon. At the time, there was no wine industry in Oregon. There are now over 900 wineries and more than 37,000 acres of planted vineyards. Today as second generation growers, Alex, Alison and Nik Sokol Blosser continue to shape the ever prominent Oregon wine industry through their commitment to sustainable viticulture and winemaking. Sokol Blosser is a certified B-Corp. 

After an inviting black cherry nose, the first sip suggests this is a gutsy organic Pinot with a bold personality. Complex with savoury spice. Medium-bodied with balanced acidity and light oak (17 months in French barriques), its structure will continue to develop over the next three years with careful cellaring. Perfect match with roast duck, mushroom risotto or salmon fillet glazed with Dijon mustard; when served lightly chilled (14-16ºC).

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £36.40 Les Caves de Pyrene

WALES

Ancre Hill Pinot Noir 2020, Monmouth 

Image credit: Will Wong

While English wines have been gaining their well-deserved recognition over the past two decades, there is much to shout about Welsh wines. Their hidden gems are rarely available on the UK High Street. From rural Monmouthshire in the southeast corner of Wales on the border with England, Ancre Hill Estates is Demeter certified biodynamic and organic with minimal intervention in their winemaking. 

This magical place and their philosophy enticed winemaker Jean du Plessis to relocate from South Africa with his partner and Max, the black cat on the label to endure quarantine before he was allowed to enter Wales. 

With skin maceration, whole bunch pressing and carbonic maceration, fermentation was finished in oak and stainless steel for ageing on gross lees for a minimum of two years. No filtration, no fining. It throws a little sediment so best stand the bottle upright for an hour in the fridge before decanting.

This super-light organic and biodynamic Pinot at 11% ABV is perfect for the summer. It is just so so fresh. Utterly moreish and quaffable when lightly chilled. With no insecticides, pesticides or herbicides from grape to bottle, it’s not cheap but you will taste the difference.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £34.20 Les Caves de Pyrene

BEFORE WE GO …

We hope the above discovery world tour has inspired you to try the different styles beyond Burgundy and New Zealand. If you are new to Pinot Noir, its inherent earthiness sets it apart from most other reds.

The Diva grape is not born for the bargain booze trade. With Burgundy prices on the rise, better value is found in say, Languedoc in the south of France. 

The early ripening Pinot is facing serious challenges from climate change and global warming. If freshness and a sense of place are what appeal, look for cool clime Pinots from England, Wales, Germany, Tasmania and perhaps Oregon (US). Quality comes with a price and these regions could not compete with Chile or South Africa on volume or their much lower costs of production. 

And if you remember what Miles said in the film ‘Sideways’, that most haunting and ancient flavours on the planet await. Merlot is altogether a different story and sour grape for him.

By Will Wong

7 German Rieslings You Need to Try

Image credit: Wines of Germany

Blue Nun oder Liebfraumilch? Nein Nein.

When did you last try a German white wine, and Riesling to be precise? The mind might go blank. Aren’t they all a bit too sweet and acidic, with too low alcohol? Or you could be old enough to miss or mock ‘Blue Nun’, a semi-sweet German white, the mass market export brand associated with Liebfraumilch, literally ‘beloved Lady’s milk’; referring to the Liebfrauenkirche (the Church of Our Lady) in Worms, Germany, near where the wine was originally produced.

Departing from the often innumerable German wine labels with Gothic script and long, complicated names, Blue Nun became an ironic icon of German wine for many who do not speak German or are less familiar with what Germany has to offer the world.

Anne Krebiehl, the only German Master of Wine (MW) living in the UK, reminded us of how recently the status of German wine had changed within Germany itself. “People forget the doldrums of German wine, especially from about 1985 to 1995. If you were cool in Germany then, you didn’t drink German wine,” she said. “But it has changed this century. It happened with dry Riesling (Trocken) first. 

Winemakers in Germany have progressively steered away from the semi-sweet to sweet spectrum. There is now a wide range of well-made and balanced dry Rieslings and other whites that gain domestic and international recognition. However, that does not mean off-dry, semi-sweet or sweet wines are inferior. Far from that in fact; as the best grapes are often harvested late to retain their residual sugar. Riesling’s high natural acidity is perfect for balancing high levels of sweetness.

31 Days of German Riesling?

Image credit: Wines of Germany

The quality of German wines has improved immeasurably in the last two decades. To build on this momentum, Wines of Germany first launched the 31 Days of German Riesling campaign in 2012 (remember the London Olympics?) to raise awareness of Riesling.

Now for its 13th edition this July, there are over 100 events from in store tastings to virtual events and tasting menus across the UK. You can even play an interactive online game and find out more about your preferred style of Riesling here.

Research suggests it takes 30 days to form a new habit, so welcome to the 31 Days of (German) Riesling! Other countries and grapes are available, but why wouldn’t you want to drink outside your comfort zone?

The Riesling Grape

Image credit: Wines of Germany

A noble grape loved by the wine trade but often shunned by consumers, Riesling is probably one of the most misunderstood and underrated varietals. 

Naturally aromatic with high acidity, the late-ripening Riesling does not like heat. Vine-growers therefore have many harvesting options to make light to full-bodied wines from bone-dry to off-dry, semi-sweet or the sublimely sweet. The specific fruit flavours in the wine vary with the degree of ripeness in the grapes at the time of harvest. Grapes that are just ripe produce wines with green apples and pear, citrus flavours of lime and lemon, and floral characteristics. With grapes that are extra-ripe, we get flavours of stone fruit such as peach and apricot, tropical fruit (mango and pineapple) and even dried fruit (dried apricots).

Riesling does not like blends or oak either. It mirrors terroir - latitude, the soil and micro climate; and cooperates less well with the winemaker’s intervention. With the right conditions, it develops a tension true to its pedigree. 

No matter where in the world it is grown, the Riesling grape which retains acidity and builds up sugar and flavour slowly makes wines that can outlast those made from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This is true even of relatively inexpensive examples. Riesling develops more nuanced flavours as it ages. Some fine Rieslings could go on and on. Many years ago, Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson MW hosted a tasting in Frankfurt which demonstrated that a fine Mosel Riesling could outlast red Bordeaux. Some date back to the early 1970s and are still going strong if cellared carefully.

Deciphering the German Riesling label

Many modern German Rieslings sold on the UK market have simplified and adapted their former Gothic heritage to more contemporary designs. If you look at its front and back label, you are likely to see the following:

VDP with a dark eagle logo - that symbolises grapes from a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) which is further classified as either Qualitätswein - the wine must come from one of 13 ‘wine growing areas’ in Germany (see below) or Prädikatswein - a higher minimum level of sugar is required in the grapes that is needed for Qualitätswein.

There are six Prädikat categories. The most common of which are Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese, classified in increasing sugar levels in the grapes at the time of harvest. Though these wines carry some sweetness, they can also be made in a dry style. All clear or totally confused?

The sweeter the wine, the lower the alcohol and, in general, the longer the wine’s life.

Keeping things simple, Trocken (dry) is perhaps the most useful term to look out for if you prefer that style of whites. Klaus Peter Keller, a champion exponent of it, who put Rheinhessen on the map feels that 30 or more years’ ageing is no problem for the most lauded of Germany’s dry Rieslings, the Grosse Gewächse (“GGs” equivalent to the Grand Crus in Burgundy).

Where is Riesling grown in Germany?

Image credit: Wines of Germany

Germany has almost 60,000 vineyard acres of Riesling. It grows in every one of Germany’s 13 major wine regions, called Anbaugebiete. The most famous Anbaugebiete for high-quality German Riesling are Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen.

Mosel

The scenic Mosel Valley, named for the river which serpentines through it, is about as far north in Germany as Riesling could prosper; at least before climate change became an urgent issue. Vineyards in the narrow valley are on steep slopes of blue slate; some up to 80º elevation. The steeper the slope the better, as that gives vines “stadium seating” for best sun exposure as the river reflects light and heats up the slopes.

With its latitude, frequent cloud cover and rain, Mosel Rieslings have low to medium alcohol content with fruit leaning towards the least ripe profile - green apples, lemon and lime.

Rheingau

It’s a tiny region, making only 2% of Germany’s wine, but the vineyards all have southern facings with unimpeded sun exposure. Rheingau's slate is predominantly red which absorbs more water and heat from the sun than blue slate found in Mosel. That warmth is released to the vines at night.

As a result, Rheingau Rieslings tend to be riper, fuller, and more powerful than those from the Mosel. Their aromas and flavours reflect that with yellow stone fruit and even tropical notes. 

Rheinhessen

No Anbaugebiet makes more wine than Rheinhessen. Compared to most of the neighbouring growing areas, Rheinhessen is broad and without slope with very large vineyards. Lying just across the river from Rheingau, the same range of hills protects it. And the flat terrain means it gets sun all day.

Over the past twenty years, Riesling’s share of total plantation has risen from about 10% to nearly 20%. It is now the most-planted variety there.

7 German Rieslings to whet your palate

Image credit: Will Wong

Whether you are an aficionado or simply curious about German Riesling, we have hand-picked seven German bone-dry to off-dry Rieslings from Mosel to Rheinhessen. They share some core similarities - fresh acidity and versatility with food, whilst differ from having a touch of sweetness to saline minerality. There is something for everyone.

Sainsbury’s Winemakers’ Selection Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen

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Part of Sainsbury’s new mid-strength range, this own-label medium-dry Riesling is quaffable at an incredible price. Green apples with a hint of petrol on the nose, it’s ideal to drink with Thai or Vietnamese cuisine and anything fiery with chilli. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 9%
Find here: £5.00 Sainsbury’s

Waitrose Blueprint Dry German Riesling 2023, Moselland, Mosel

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An easy-drinking and good value dry Riesling from Mosel. At 11% ABV, it is ideal for summer but serve it at around 10-12ºC or its acidity might impair your tasting experience. Goes well with poached chicken and spicy dishes.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £8.49 Selected Waitrose and Waitrose Cellar (online)

Peter & Ulrich Griebeler Dry Riesling 2022, Mosel

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Peter & Ulrich Griebeler are a small, family-run producer based in Germany’s Mosel region. Sourcing grapes from different villages, they are aged on the lees for a subtly rounded texture. With hints of petrol on the nose, it is very pale with racy acidity of grapefruit. A touch of minerality that works well with summer salad and seafood paella.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six, Majestic

The Society’s Exhibition Rheingau Riesling 2020, Hochheim am Main

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2023 Decanter World Wine Awards Bronze Medal. Based in Hochheim, Gunter Künstler, one of the Rheingau's top winemakers crafted this refined dry Riesling for The Wine Society (UK). Despite its lush tropical aromas of peach, white blossom and lemon curd, it is bone dry with a steely and long saline mineral finish. Very sensitive to temperature change in the glass, it’s best served between 10-12°C to maintain its fresh acidity. Richer than a Mosel Riesling, this would stand up well to spicy Asian dishes or even complement roast pork.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5% 
Find here: £14.50 The Wine Society

Zilliken Riesling Trocken 2022, Mosel

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Floral, clean cut dry German riesling from a ripe and sunny vintage. With citrus and a touch of apple, this has a steely and saline mineral finish. It has an underlying tension that needs time to unwind. In German, this is classified as a gutswein , which means estate wine. All the grapes come from the estate and from the various plots owned by Zilliken. Even so, ageing is done in traditional 1000-litre fuder barrels.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £15.50 The Wine Society

Fritz Ekkehard Huff Pettenthal Riesling Trocken 2021, Nierstein-Schwabsburg, Rheinhessen

Image credit: Will Wong

Schwabsburg lies a little inland from the Rhine, just behind Nierstein. The Huff family has been farming here since 1700. In 2010, Ekkehard Huff’s daughter Christine joined the family enterprise, and together with her New Zealand-born husband Jeremy, they are now part of the young ‘golden generation’ of winemakers who practise biodynamic viticulture.

No petrol or green apples aroma here. The winemakers are like an orchestral conductor who led the grapes and terroir symphony, where it is all finesse, balance with subtlety. Bone dry with a steely mineral finish. Think Chablis Premier Cru.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £22.00 Howard Ripley

Schloss Lieser Thomas Hagg Niederberg Helden Riesling Kabinett 2020, Mosel

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At up to 80º steep slopes with blue slate, the 110-year old ungrafted vines here in Niederberg Helden produce highly complex and premium Riesling with masculinity and structure. 

Pronounced green apples on the nose, this exquisite Kabinett Riesling is off-dry but not sickly sweet on its own. A little lychee mid-palate with minerals. It really shows its best when paired with sweet and sour cuisine. Chilli? Bring that on. The restrained sweetness and low-alcohol makes it a far better partner than any dry whites or reds. Drink to 2032.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 8.5%
Find here: £17.17 Howard Ripley

Why German Riesling?

We hope any scepticism about German Riesling is amply dispelled. An off-dry or even medium sweet wine could work wonders with strong cheeses and fiery South or Southeast Asian dishes. The resulting lower alcohol is just perfect for summer.

When it comes to the drier styles, its racy acidity and steely texture stays true to provenance and terroir, rather than manipulation by winemakers for a certain commercial style. Above all, Riesling when stored properly will age not only gracefully, but possibly outlive you. How much do you like your heirs?

If you want to know even more about German Riesling:

The Wines of Germany by Anne Krebiehl MW; part of The Infinite Ideas Classic Wine Library (Académie du Vin Library)

Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards Wine Book 2020 Winner. Comprehensive and scholarly, yet accessible to any wine enthusiast or student. It is an invaluable reference guide providing a historical context of German winemaking areas, and the rise of Riesling as well as Spätburgunder in Germany.

By Will Wong

12 of the Best Wines for English Wine Week 2024

Image credit: Will Wong

Mention English wine and you may get three types of responses. Preaching to the converted, still an overall minority; or those who remember trying a few sparklers, usually from the big and established producers. The rest didn’t even know wines are made in England, or believe they are generally overpriced and not very good. Does that resonate with your experience?

In fact, there are now almost a thousand vineyards scattered across England alone, including over 200 commercial wineries. The paradox of climate change and global warming has benefited English vineyards in general. In 2022, total production was up by 36% year-on-year. 2023 saw a bumper harvest in which the UK experienced higher-than-ever yields and bunch numbers due to the volume of rain throughout the growing season. So, the only way is up, right?

What is the English Wine Week?

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The first English Wine Week (EWW) was launched in 2006 when Laura Rhys MS was a sommelier struggling to convince consumers of the merits of English sparkling. Now, Rhys, a brand ambassador for Gusbourne Estate, can legitimately pitch the Fifty-One Degrees North, Gusbourne’s prestige cuvée (and the most expensive English wine on the UK market at £195), against the likes of Dom Perignon. In just under three decades, the English wine scene has progressed by leaps and bounds. 

In 2024, EWW officially runs from Saturday 15th to Sunday 23rd June. Producers and vineyards across the land, including the four urban wineries in London are throwing parties and special popup events. It is the perfect opportunity to spend your holidays and weekends with a stay or trip to your local vineyard, celebrating at a wine festival, and then taking home a couple of bottles to share your experience with friends. The WineGB website has a dedicated page on how to get the most out of EWW 2024.

To mark this special occasion, this bumper edition takes you on a tasting tour with twelve very different wines from Suffolk to the Crouch Valley in Essex (one of the most sought after vine-growing spots), then through Kent and Sussex to Dorset and finally weather-permitting tropical Cornwall. You might see a few familiar and favourite labels, and be surprised by others. Above all, we wish to champion some lesser known but worthy contenders on the ever expanding English wine stage; not just at home but extending far and wide to the United States, Scandinavia and Japan.

The Best English White Wines

In volume terms, still wines account for around a third in total production compared with sparkling. The marginal climate and erratic weather patterns in Britain do not ensure consistent ripening conditions for grapes; at least before the 1980s. Vine-growers back then experimented with German varietals such as the white Müller-Thurgau and Reichensteiner, which had a higher chance of early ripening in cooler climates. It is also much more challenging to make decent still wines with unripe grapes and their overt acidity.

Wine writer Henry Jeffreys recalled the trailblazer Gillian Pearkes with her 1981 book ‘Vinegrowing in Britain’: while everyone else was looking to Germany for inspiration, she saw that France and specifically Champagne and Chablis could be a model for viticulture in England. As well writing on the subject, Pearkes planted her own vineyard at Yearlstone in Devon, acted as mentor to Bob Lindo at Camel Valley in Cornwall and encouraged Stuart and Sandy Moss at Nyetimber: “Find the right site and you will grow Chardonnay in England,” 

Four decades on, Chardonnay and Bacchus (covered in our previous guides) are now the most planted white grapes in England. Although they are yet to gain comparable international standings as the sparklers, quality has improved beyond imagination as producers experiment with sites and signature styles. Below are two outstanding Chardonnay and two Pinot Gris (related to Pinot Grigio) with very different characters.

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

‘The only question that matters is who’s going to buy your wine’

~ Charles Simpson

Charles and Ruth Simpson started their wine business as Domaine Saint Rose in Languedoc, southern France in 2002. By 2012, they saw the potential and moved back to England. After buying a 12 hectares / 30-acre site with lime-rich chalk soil in the North Downs in Kent, similar to the terroir in Champagne and Burgundy, Simpsons’ Wine Estate was born. Followed by their own winery in 2016, they now own three vineyard sites covering 38 hectares / 112 acres. 

Whilst most new vineyard owners opted for the sparkling clones (safer for Britain’s cool climate but needs a much longer time span before any wines are ready to be released), Ruth Simpson hatched a bet with planting some non-sparkling clones; hoping to sell still wines before their first sparkling is ready for the market. The high-quality and bumper 2018 vintage firmly established the Simpsons brand. 

This unoaked Chardonnay seems to have two personalities. Those who love the classic lush tropical fruits on its nose will be drawn instantly. Or if you are ‘anything but Chardonnay’, the greatest surprise came when paired with smoked haddock risotto. It turned flinty with a long finish like a Chablis. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.74 (25% off £16.99 till 02/07/2024)

The Only Way is Essex

Tell your wine snob friends about ‘Grapes from Essex’ and raise a few eyebrows. Crouch Valley to be precise, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. No, this is not a joke about Essex. It is no secret to most in the wine trade that many of the UK’s best-known wine producers, from the southernmost vineyards of the country and all the way up north, are buying fruit from Essex and have done so for many years. Instead of the chalky soil at Simpsons in Kent, the River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. Working with the highly respected viticulturist Duncan McNeill, the family converted 4 hectares / 11 acres of their arable land facing the River Crouch into a vineyard back in 2017. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

After harvest, the grapes are transported to Devon-based Lyme Bay Winery who has been sourcing grapes from Essex, where winemakers James Lambert and Sarah Massey produce the wine for Riverview Crouch Valley. Their debut 2020 Chardonnay received critical acclaim from critics and buyers alike. At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

With its classic and simple label showing off the now famous River Crouch, this is one of England’s finest. There is not yet any typical English Chardonnay style. It does not try to be Burgundian or Australian / Californian. Despite its pale lemon appearance in the glass, the nose is lush with restrained tropical fruits. Nothing shouty here. Hints of vanilla comes through the brief oak ageing in old French barriques. The palate has subdued stone fruit with a little smokiness which is unusual for a Chardonnay. Whichever camp of ABC you belong to, this is a serious gastro wine that calls for your attention. A match made in heaven with roast chicken as Katie suggested, or even roast pork. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon

Image credit: Will Wong

Back in the 1960s, Maurice and Ruth Ash moved with their Jersey cows from Essex on the train to the Sharpham Estate over-looking the River Dart in South Devon. Over time, they planted some trial vines on the sunny south-facing slope in front of Sharpham House. Successes were steady with the next generation of vine-growers and winemakers in the Ash's nephew, Mark Sharman and Duncan Schwab, head winemaker and now CEO, who joined the team in 1992.

Then in 2008, Sharpham were approached by the owner of Sandridge Barton Estate on the eastern riverbank for help with planting vines on the basis that Sharpham might take the grapes. The terroir and its proximity was godsend to expand Sharpham’s acreage by 120%. And finally in 2020, Sharpham built its own solar-powered, with rain and waste-water harvesting 120,000 bottle capacity two-level winery adjacent to where the majority of the fruit is sourced. That culminated in the decision to relocate and rebrand as Sandridge Barton, with a fully-fledged visitor centre and cafe since 2022. 

Only 3300 bottles were released. Unfined, unfiltered with minimal sulphur, this experimental orange wine had two-week skin contact with indigenous yeast during fermentation. It is a little like the natural wines made with amphora from Georgia. Taut acidity with firm tannins. Due to the lees in the bottle, expect cloudiness so best stand the bottle upright for at least an hour before opening. Decant and serve at room temperature with Carpaccio. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 10.5%
Find here: £21.00

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Oast – a kiln for drying hops. Brook – a small natural stream.

Oastbrook is located on a beautiful farm by the banks of the River Rother, only a stone’s throw from Bodiam Castle in East Sussex. It had been owned by Guinness for the farming of hops as the Oast houses themselves were used for drying the hops. 

The wine estate is the brainchild of husband Nick and wife America Brewer who grew up in the Bahia region of Brazil. Nick used to work in finance internationally but retrained at Plumpton College as a winemaker. America was top of her year in plant biology on her BSc in viticulture and oenology at Plumpton. She planted her first vines at Oastbrook only in 2017. They tell their own story here.

Nick described their wines as America’s sunshine and charismatic personality in bottles. The couple passionately believe in sustainable ecology starting with soil health. “Learn from the grapes and don’t copy others” is their shared motto. With the range of activities and amenities on site, their dedication to the land, produce and community with business acumen is evident. 

Only 2250 bottles of the 2023 Pinot Gris were released. Its nose could easily fool you as a Riesling with hints of petrol. A full-bodied unoaked gastro wine with citrus acidity and a long mineral finish. Think Bacchus or Sauvignon Blanc with greater intensity and texture. It pairs well with sautéed king prawns and asparagus pasta tossed in pesto. Abundant substance to lay down for a couple of years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.50

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines

Image credit: Will Wong

Haphazard weather means variation in grape ripeness from vintage to vintage. The earlier varietals such as Madeleine Angevine, Dornfelder, Regent or Rondo seem to have fallen out of fashion to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier which are used in making Traditional Method sparkling wines. But are rosés the answer to harnessing less than fully ripened black grapes? To date, there is no uniform signature English rosé style as in Provence. In global volume terms, English rosé is still a cottage industry through trial and error at the mercy of changing climate. When done well, there are hidden gems that are unique and not copycats of Provence or Italy. 

It is only in the last five years quality still wine is made out of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The amount of vineyards in Britain that are growing still wine grapes is probably in the low hundreds of hectares, which is the equivalent of one village in France worth of vineyard area. 

Producing a serious still Pinot Noir is even more demanding. Winemakers want the colour from the skin, which must be fully ripe – or they risk extracting harsh green tannins from it. It can be tricky to get the ripeness levels and style of fruit needed even with warmer summers over the last decade or so; according to Laura Rhys at Gusbourne. 

We have found four shining examples of English rosé and Pinot Noir well worth savouring.

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk

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Giffords Hall is a family owned vineyard planted on the site of an ancient glacial riverbed near Long Melford in Suffolk. The sandy/clay soil in the East Anglian desert as proprietor Linda Howard calls it produces quality grapes high in natural sugars and acids, that lend themselves particularly well to both sparkling and dry, aromatic still wines.

The Howards initially bought an established vineyard which is now 35 years old. The Giffords Hall label was officially launched in 2009 with a Rosé and a Bacchus still wine. Since 2020, Linda has managed the vineyard and winery with her daughter Ellie and son Harry together with a small team. 

In the bottle and glass, this rosé is very pale salmon pink from a careful blend of hand-picked Madeleine Angevine and Rondo, a deep red grape. Fresh strawberries on the nose and when served at 12ºC, it reveals its true flinty character which works beautifully with smoked wild Alaskan salmon and boiled new potatoes. Long finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023

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Husband-and-wife team Tom and Elisha Cannon decided to be an independent negociant sourcing the finest grapes grown on the best, family-owned and run vineyards across Kent, Suffolk and Sussex. Not restricted by historic rules or traditions, Folc was born in 2019 as an English rosé to rival the best from Provence. 

Folc makes only rosé; and in this case they have blended seven varieties of grapes from Pinot Noir to Bacchus and Ortega. Where the black grapes give the wine its ripe red fruit flavours of wild strawberries, raspberries and cranberries, the white grapes work in harmony to form an ensemble with a crisp and textural long finish. It is a serious pink gastro wine that compliments pan fried salmon wrapped in bacon with steamed greens. Serve well chilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £21.99

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall

Image credit: Will Wong

The name Knightor is intriguing in itself. You can read about the history behind its brand here. Today, Knightor Winery is a boutique enterprise situated not far from the Eden Project and St Austell Brewery in Cornwall. They make premium quality, limited production English wines from grapes grown in English vineyards, and their own vines at Portscatho on the Roseland Peninsula, and Seaton on the south Cornish coast. It has also become an established Cornish wedding venue and rustic events space.

Retired IT professional Adrian Derx the owner is a down-to-earth entrepreneur. It is hard to imagine young winemaker David Brocklehurst already at the helm for twelve years and counting, creating a range of eclectic wines including a Riesling! Far more than just a vineyard with winery tours, there is also a restaurant and bar on site. and how about Sunday roast in their winery?

Its Alsatian or German style bottle, together with a distinctive cartography label really stands out. Unfined and unfiltered, so best stand the bottle upright for an hour before opening. Decant to separate its natural sediment and let the young wine open up. Dark fruits and bramble on the nose, followed by soft but well structured tannins and fresh acidity that will see this wine further develop over the next 2-3 years. A long and satisfying smoky finish that really puts Cornwall on the map for English wines. Pairs well with roast chicken or BBQ prawns. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.95

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Everyone in the UK wine trade has heard of the veteran vinegrower and wine maker Will Davenport, who began his career as a wine merchant in England in the 1980s. He then studied for a post-graduate diploma in oenology at Roseworthy College in Adelaide, South Australia. On returning to England, he worked at a vineyard in Hampshire with amazing grapes but very poor English wines no one wanted back then.

In 1991, Davenport planted his first five acres (two hectares) of vines at his parents’ apple farm in Horsmonden, Kent. He now owns 24 acres (10 hectares) across 5 plots, and fully converted to organic in 2000. Organic might sound admirable but remains a persistent challenge in the British cool climate with erratic rainfall patterns and humidity, making the vines prone to diseases. 

Firmly believing in the potential of great fruit from healthy vines, instead of using chemicals in the vineyard and winery, Davenport has been consistently creating both whites and reds with a depth of character. His wines inspired former music producer Adrian Pike to work as a winemaker under Will, before setting up his Westwell label. Other notable ex-apprentices include Peter Morgan (ex Nyetimber), Ben Walgate (ex Tillingham), and Ben Witchell (Flint in Norfolk). 

This Pinot Noir is sourced from the 5-acre organic Redmoors vineyard planted in 2016. Whole berries were fermented with natural yeasts, matured in oak for 18 months and bottled without filtration before release a further 20 months on. It is light in style comparable to a refined German Spätburgunder rather than the more intense Pinot Noir from Central Ortago, New Zealand or Oregon in the USA. Aromatic with complex red fruit and balanced acidity. 

Only 260 bottles were made.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £24.20

The Best English Sparkling Wine

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For anyone who is already familiar with English wine, chances are they tasted a sparkling at some point. The international success of English sparkling wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, when in the 1990s producers realised respectable bubblies could be made in the traditional method just like champagne, with the three classic grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in chalky soil across southeast England. 

That momentum was further confirmed in 2015 when Tattinger, one of the most respectable Champagne houses acquired land just outside Faversham in Kent. Planting of vines took place in May 2017, followed by Champagne Pommery launching its first English sparkling wine, made in partnership with Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. 

Over the last five years, UK production has been consistently ⅔ sparkling and ⅓ still, with 80% of plantings coming from Champagne varietals. To put in context, in the UK we produce 12 million bottles a year, Dom Perignon alone produces roughly 5 million, and it is this scarcity that contributes to the high price point of English wine. 

The question is: could the finest English sparkling match the quality and prestige of Champagne? 

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex

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‘Nyetimber is possibly the most famous of all the English sparkling wine producers, largely because of the reputation they built up on the first wines they made in the early 1990s. These were the first bottles that made people realise that English sparkling wine wasn’t just good: it could be world class.’ Dr Jamie Goode 

The Nyetimber effect actually traces back to an anglophile couple from Chicago, Sandy and Stuart Moss who knew little about winemaking. In the 1980s, they spotted a gap in quality sparkling wine. After investing in a hugely professional operation with premium style exclusivity as focus, their first wine made from Chardonnay planted in 1988 and made in 1992, won best sparkling wine in England. Their second, a blend of all three classic grapes from 1993, won best non-champagne sparkling wine in the world at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in 1998. The couple returned to the US in 2001, and Nyetimber has since had two changes in ownership and management. 

Under the stewardship of Eric Heerema, Cherie Spriggs at Nyetimber was the first non-Champenois and woman winemaker to win the prestigious ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ award at the International Wine Challenge 2018. Hence, the Nyetimber range has become a benchmark for English sparkling the world over.  

Nowadays, Nyetimber owns more vines than most of the major label Champagne houses. They are able to source vastly contrasting parcels of fruit in producing as many as 115 batches of base wine across their three county holdings. This advantage enables multi-vintage blending to create a consistent ‘house style’, which is common practice for the established Champagne houses across the Channel.

The Classic Cuveé is the flagship multi-vintage blend with mostly Chardonnay, followed by Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If you want to know the precise details, look at the back label and you will find a very long number in the bottom left corner. On its website, you could submit that to reveal a precise chronology of each bottle, detailing the important moments of bottling, riddling and disgorging.

With a bouquet of baked apples and toasted brioche, it has balanced acidity with a creamy mouthful and lemon pastry that outshines many non-vintage (NV) Champagne at a similar price point. When stored correctly (on its side, in darkness away from direct light and heat), most NV sparkling wine should continue to evolve with complexity and intensity. It pairs effortlessly with smoked salmon, sushi, oysters, scallops and even asparagus. Serve well chilled. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: On offer at £29.00, down from £42 till 25/06/2024.

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex

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It is no coincidence we are recommending two Nyetimber; for the above is a totally different experience. Made with 100% Chardonnay, it’s off dry and yet refreshing. The very fine bubbles offer an inviting biscuity nose followed by lemon zest on the palate. Try it with fruit tarts, custard tarts and Pasteis de nata, Crème Brûlée or strong blue cheeses. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42.99 or £29.99 Mix Six 

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex

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Busi Jacobsohn is a modern fairy tale where Swedish-born Douglas Jacobsohn and his Italian-born wife Susanna Busi fell in love with Blackdorn Farm in Eridge. Across their five hectares, they planted an equal split of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, leaving 20% to Pinot Meunier.

Douglas spent most of his career in the marine insurance business. That perhaps explains his foresight in future-proofing by installing a drainage system beneath their vineyard, helping rainwater run off and letting their prized grapes ripen over the naturally heat-retaining sandstone. 

With the ethos of grower champagnes, they only produce single estate vintage wines not relying on blending to create a house style. 

The 2018 Blanc de Noirs is made with handpicked Pinot Noir (78%) and Pinot Meunier (22%). It is effervescent with balanced red apple acidity and mild toast on the palate. Bone dry with medium finish which is expected to further develop over 3-5 years. Pairs well with creamy crab pasta and Comté; but not Gorgonzola as Susanna advised; and she was absolutely right.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £48.00

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent

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Everything about Gusbourne is premium. Its name is associated with John de Goosebourne’s Appledore estate first mentioned in 1410. South African orthopaedic surgeon Andrew Weeber bought this site in 2003, with their first release in 2010. Nowadays, the company is listed on the Alternative Investment Market (AIM), with Lord Ashcroft as the main shareholder of the Gusbourne Estate. The vines now spread across 60 hectares (150 acres) at Appledore with the winery, and a further 30 hectares (75 acres) in West Sussex near Greenwood.

Gusbourne only produces vintage still and sparkling wines; with no intention of blending. Long lees ageing is the norm that results in softened acidity with added complexity. Their range of sparkling wine is impressive in quality whose unique characters come alive when you have a food pairing seasonal lunch on site. Or you could have a relaxed picnic among the vines.

Our last showcase of the dozen is truly a special occasion gem. First tasted when Laura Rhys offered at the 2022 WineGB tasting, it was once sipped, forever smitten.

63% Chardonnay and 37% Pinot Noir went into this late disgorged marvel. Light gold in colour with a fine mousse and aromas of citrus peel, alongside brioche and biscuit notes. Due to extended lees ageing, the palate is creamy and complex with flavours of buttered toast and delicate spice leading to a long, intense and unforgettable finish. Perfect with roast chicken, seared tuna steaks or rich vegetarian moussaka. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £105.00

The Future of English Wine

The quality of English sparkling wine (ESW) is firmly established against their Champagne counterparts. If you were to taste blind, you might surprise yourself to find your favourite pick turn out to be an ESW. However, with the average spend on a bottle of wine being under £7 in the UK, it is highly unlikely that a typical household sees an ESW as part of essential weekly shopping. That takes us to the emerging and ever improving still wines; which form the first two-thirds of this special English Wine Week edition. 

Production volume is minuscule by global standards with export markets still in their infancy. With high labour and production costs, and escalating prime land prices, English wine will never be able to compete with Argentina, Chile or South Africa on price alone. Output has to rise substantially, which again depends on the vintage. In the long run, entry level English still wines might need to find a price point below £15 to entice consumers to give them a try; against the infinite choices from around the world between £8-£15 on the shelves.

Many producers quietly celebrate global warming and climate change as warmer temperatures help their grapes ripen sufficiently to make quality still wines. According to a new report by the World Weather Attrition Group, Britain will increasingly see monsoon-like rains over the next decade, as well as more frequent hail storms and even “mini tornadoes”. UK regions with the highest average temperatures, particularly those in southern and central England, are likely to see the worst storms. These cast an omen for a burgeoning industry about to enter its next critical growth phase. Suddenly, looking after the soil and vines is no longer enough when dealing with climate chaos. Big Data sharing should help collective resilience through mitigation and adaptation strategies. 

Does anyone know the role of AI in viticulture and winemaking in our brave new world of the unknown?

Great Books to Read About English Wine

Vines in a Cold Climate: The People Behind the English Wine Revolution by Henry Jeffreys

Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year 2024. When was the last time you read a page-turner on wine? This is it. Opinionated but witty. Thoroughly researched without being academic. It is like a friend who’s had too much to drink telling you who’s who and done what. 

The Vineyards of Britain: Cellar Door Adventures with the Best of Britain’s Wines by Ed Dallimore

How did Ed do it? Lost count of how many vineyards are actually featured in this compendium with stunning imagery, lucid and personable writing reflecting thorough research and his empathy with the characters behind the wine labels.

By Will Wong

Chenin Blanc Beyond South Africa

Image credit: Will Wong

How will you celebrate Drink Chenin Day on 8th June?

Mention Chenin Blanc and you may think of South Africa. It was their signature grape till the late 20th century (often called Steen) when reds often replaced it, but it’s still the most widely planted Cape white grape, though it now only makes up one vine in five. Fortunately, old bush vine Chenin is having a renaissance with its intense flavours and longevity.

The grape itself can be traced to the Middle Loire Valley in France (see map below); sandwiched between the Melon de Bourgogne of Muscadet near the Atlantic coast, and the Sauvignon Blanc of the Upper Loire (Sancerre and Pouilly). 

The Nantes vineyards near Muscadet were planted by the Romans in the 4th century. In the year 2000, the Loire Valley was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is now the world’s largest Chenin Blanc growing region; accounting for almost 20% of all grapes planted there.

This versatile white grape adapts to a range of climates, from cool to moderate and warm. Flavours therefore vary according to the ripeness from apple to lemon through to peach and mango. Its natural high acidity makes Chenin Blanc suitable for late harvesting and cellaring for years in the bottle. Styles of wine range from dry to sweet, both oaked and unoaked. One of the most famous Loire appellations is Vouvray, with 7% of Chenin Blanc grown worldwide. Historically, about half of Chenin is made into sparkling wines especially in the cooler and wetter years. 

Whatever your first and recent experience of Chenin Blanc might be, we will take you through three wines from the Loire, then Margaret River in Western Australia before finishing in Stellenbosch, South Africa with a twist.

Bernard Fouquet Cuvée de Perruches Vouvray 2022

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Established in 1978, Domaine des Aubuisières now owns thirty hectares of vineyard with clay-limestone terroir. The cuvée wines are the result of the partnership with local winemakers who select their best juices from different terroirs of the AOC Vouvray, before vinifying and blending in their cellars or on farms. Fermentation and ageing take place in temperature-controlled tanks.

Best taken out of the fridge 20 minutes ahead of serving, it’s bone dry with crisp acidity, and hints of ripe green apples. It has a mineral grip with tension. Serve with summer salad, creamy goat cheese or brie. Buttered white fish could be a lovey partner. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six

Savennières VB 2022

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Savennières AOC spreads over 3 hills of schist totalling about 150 hectares, with steep south-facing vineyards situated on the north bank of the river Loire, in the Anjou-Saumur subregion. It is all Chenin Blanc here, and as a result of the low maximum yield restrictions imposed under appellation laws, the wines are highly concentrated and can be surprisingly long lived.

Savennières is typically more full-bodied than dry Vouvray, and a significant step up in concentration and quality from basic Anjou blanc. The dry wines are often steely and tart in their youth, comparable to good Chablis. This character begins to dissipate after five or so years in bottle.

Vignoble Branchereau (VB) is a sub-brand of Domaine des Forges, a five-generation family story since 1890. Environmental sustainability lies at the heart of their viticultural practice. The 2022 is the maiden vintage of a former stagiare (apprentice) of VB, made with their help. 

A serious gastro wine worth decanting and best served at 12ºC, with grilled or pan-fried white fish or poultry. Bold with oak influence. It is complex with citrus fruits and a long savoury mineral finish. Drink to 2027.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £17.50

Langlois-Chateau 'L'Extra par Langlois' Crémant de Loire Brut

Image credit: Will Wong

Crémant de Loire is the regional appellation for sparkling wines from Anjou, Saumur and Touraine – the heartland of the Loire Valley wine region of France. It was introduced in 1975 to provide France with a widely recognisable, high quality Loire sparkling wine title, as an alternative to the increasingly expensive wines of Champagne.

Using méthode traditionelle (secondary fermentation in the bottle as Champagne) rather than tank production, most Crémant spends at least 9 months in bottle on the lees during and following its secondary fermentation. Up to 11 grapes are permitted except Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin Blanc is the principal ingredient. 

Langlois-Chateau (not Chateau Langlois as it is sometimes thought) was created by Edouard Langlois and his wife Jeanne Château in 1885. It has been part of the Champagne Bollinger group since 1973. 

This sparkling wine is a blend of Chenin Blanc (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) with tight, persistent effervescence and a complex, nutty, gently honeyed nose. Maturation on the lees for a minimum of 12 months gives that biscuity flavour, adding a lingering sparkle to an easy-drinking fruity fizz. Serve cold between 8-10ºC and your party will lighten up. If stored correctly (away from direct light, heat source and on its side), the wine might further develop for up to three years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £15.99 or £10.99 Mix SIx.

South by Southwest Margaret River Chenin Blanc 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Located 300km south of Perth in Western Australia, set between the tranquil waters of Geographe Bay and the rugged Cape Leeuwin, you will find Margaret River, one of the world's premium and most isolated winemaking regions. With ocean on three sides, Margaret River is blessed with a Mediterranean climate of warm days and warm/cool nights. Cooling sea breezes from the southern Indian Ocean help to moderate temperatures and slow ripening; giving lower yield but top quality grapes. 

This region is more widely associated with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin Blanc however has a long history in Western Australia, with the first plantings coming from South Africa over 150 years ago. Oversupply led to the less good sites mostly pulled up, leaving only the very best. 

South by South West is the story of Mijan Patterson and Livia Maiorana (Mij & Liv), both sharing a passion for wine and desire for adventure that sparked a wine safari in 2013 across the most prized wine producing regions in California, Italy, France and British Columbia. In 2016 they turned their vision into reality by starting the winery; with the potential for making small batch wines that are both contemporary and classic, to tell a story about their region of origin.

The duo made their first Chenin only in 2020. Since then, they have experimented with a number of different styles and winemaking techniques – bonus for wine geeks: skin contact, tank ferment, barrel ferment, short maturation, longer maturation, newer oak, neutral oak, malolactic conversion, oxidation, and residual sugar.

2022 is their third vintage of Chenin, and what a star it is! Sourced from a single vineyard in the Treeton sub-region, the wine was barrel fermented and matured in old French oak barriques for nine months. Many of the barrels for this wine were purchased from Leeuwin Estate and previously used to make the iconic Art Series chardonnay, enhancing this wine's fantastic value.

The oak influence is subtle and pleasing. Notwithstanding their proud Margaret River spin, it was more Old World at first sip. Crisp citrus acidity with restrained fruit. Refined and balanced with a medium-body. A real gem.

The greatest surprise was it paired exceptionally well with venison lasagne. Not tried personally but according to goodpairdays.com, this Chenin Blanc is a top match for roast cauliflower or cauliflower soup, richer white meats like pork belly and creamy chicken breast dishes, and especially with recipes involving a classic Cantonese sweet and sour character. Coconut milk curries, cashew chicken and roast poultry will all work beautifully, too.

Drink to 2027. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95 

Aslina Skin Contact Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Look at the label of any South African wine, chances are you will see Stellenbosch a lot. Situated east of Cape Town in southwestern South Africa, virtually all of the Cape’s most famous wine estates are in the Stellenbosch district. At its heart lies the leafy university town surrounded by Arcadian countryside, whose curling white Cape Dutch gables are the beautiful cliché of the Cape.

Born in Mahlabathini, a rural village in the KwaZulu-Natal province, South Africa's first female black winemaker Ntsiki Biyela won a scholarship to study oenology and viticulture at Stellenbosch University in 1999, then made her name at Stellekaya, a boutique winery in Stellenbosch, picking up several awards along the way. She bottled her first Aslina wine in 2016, and the range now includes a Cabernet, a Bordeaux-style blend, Umsasane, a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc. 

Aslina is a tribute to her late grandmother who inspired and supported her. Fruit is sourced to the desired style and the wines are made at Koelenhof in Stellenbosch. When she is not making and promoting her own wines both at home and abroad, she is an active industry spokeswoman, and sits on the Board of the Pinotage Youth Development Academy which provides education and training to underprivileged young people to prepare them for work in the wine and hospitality industries. In 2017, she was listed in the World’s Top 10 Most Innovative Women in Food and Drink by Fortune’s Food & Wine.

If you look closely at the wine label, it echoes Ntsiki’s Zulu culture and heritage with a calabash, a traditional clay drinking vessel. Although used typically for beer, Ntsiki has her own unique twist by adding grapes to the calabash, transforming it into a container for her distinctive wines.

This is altogether a different kind of South African Chenin Blanc. No oak, texture from seven days’ skin contact does not overwhelm the ripe and soft fruit. Complex with an intense saline mineral long finish. Paired beautifully with crab pasta. Drink to 2025.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £16.99

If you want to explore Chardonnay, find our globetrotting guide here!

By Will Wong

The ABC’s of Chardonnay

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Which of the following best describes you?

1. Always bring a Chardonnay.

2. Anything but Chardonnay.

3. Albariño, Bacchus or Chenin Blanc.

4. Assyrtiko Baby.

Have you met anyone who said they hate Chardonnay but love Chablis and Champagne? Well, Chablis is 100% Chardonnay and Champagne except Blanc de Noirs is likely to be a blend containing Chardonnay. Love it or hate it, Chardonnay is everywhere on wine shelves. It is a versatile grape that grows in cool, moderate and warm climates. With different winemaking techniques, Chardonnay comes in a broad range of dry white wines, from high-volume brands to premium wines that can age for decades when stored correctly.

Besides Chablis further north, Burgundy from north to south between Dijon and Lyon in eastern France is where Chardonnay began. In fact, the grape takes its name from the village Chardonnay in the Mâcon region; except you won’t see Chardonnay on the labels of Burgundian whites. Then there is the rest of the world from America (California, Oregon and Washington State) to England, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Some wine enthusiasts even name their daughters Chardonnay. Chenin or Cabernet have a long way to go in naming rights.

These used to be the principal versions of Chardonnay: the limestone, flinty and steely Chablis, and those judiciously oaked but still restrained Bourgogne whites; to the big, buttery and oak in your nose New World contestants primarily from Australia and California in the 1980s. Fashion comes and goes. If anything, there seems to be a convergence between styles. Many Australian and Californian Chardonnay now gravitate towards the Burgundian style. Clare Valley Chardonnay in South Australia mimic Burgundy in everything, except for their different climate and terroir. 

With differences in terroir, climate and winemaking styles, let’s take a wine trip around the world from Chile to Australia, then Burgundy, California, New Zealand and finish our Chardonnay expedition in South Africa.

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Chilean Chardonnay 2022

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Founded in 1880, Santa Rita Estate's vineyards in the Casablanca Valley region are 500 metres above sea level close to the Pacific coast, with cooling sea breezes and morning fogs helping Chardonnay grapes to ripen slowly. This microclimate results in high acidity with intense fruit and flavours, all essential to make good wine.

This Chardonnay charms with a citrusy and tropical fruits nose, think bananas and even a hint of almonds. It’s medium-bodied with fresh acidity well balanced with spicy oak. Try it with pan-fried fish or creamy pasta dishes. Really good value for money.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £8.50 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 28th May)

Howard Park Margaret River 2022 Miamup Chardonnay

Image credit: Will Wong

Located 300km south of Perth in Western Australia, set between the tranquil waters of Geographe Bay and the rugged Cape Leeuwin, you will find Margaret River, one of the world's premium and most isolated winemaking regions. With ocean on three sides, Margaret River is blessed with a Mediterranean climate of warm days and warm/cool nights. Cooling sea breezes from the southern Indian Ocean help to moderate temperatures and slow ripening; giving lower yield but premium quality grapes.

Howard Park has been a pioneering West Australian winery since 1986, deploying multisite sourcing to create a consistent style across its product range. Beyond its green apples and mineral palate, the use of fine grain French oak created a layered, flavoursome and complex wine with a touch of spice, and creaminess. It can be cellared for 2-3 years, and is best served as a gastro wine with poached chicken, roast pork or even pickled vegetables and rice noodles, topped with crispy XO prawns. Perfect for summer evenings.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £13.99 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 4th June)

Bread & Butter Chardonnay 2021, Napa Valley, California USA

Image credit: Will Wong

The vines are planted in deep, moist soils in the northern interior of California, where the climate is cooler due to the influence from the Sacramento delta.

It tastes exactly what it says on the label: Big Buttery or Big Bad Boy depending on your affection for or aversion to new oak. After partial malo-lactic conversion, a process that gives the wine its buttery character while retaining good acidity, it is then aged for 5 months using French and American oak.

Lush tropical fruits, pineapple and coconut with upfront toasted brioche from start to finish. Whilst it could overpower seafood or delicate white fish, it might work with Cantonese style wok-fried lobster, tarragon chicken or chargrilled pork chops. It needs big flavour food to complement the distinctive big personality. Not for the faint-hearted! However, many modern Californian Chardonnay have much more restrained oak and do not taste like this.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £13.50 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 28th May)

Louis Jadot Mâcon-Azé 2022, Beaune, France

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The only Burgundy in our world tour selection. Established in 1859, Maison Louis Jadot now owns over 60 hectares of vineyard, many of them premier and grand cru, and in Jacques Lardière has one of the most respected winemakers working today. Lardière famously said: ‘To some extent we can impose style on a wine in the cellar, but we can’t impose character, and we can’t impose quality either. They come with the vine and terroir.’

The Chardonnay used here is grown around the tiny village of Azé, northwest of Mâcon in southern Burgundy. It is also the only Chardonnay here with no oak used, letting the dry, crisp and flinty character with pear and green apple speak for its terroir. It is medium-bodied with an intense long finish.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £15.99 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 4th June)

Forrest Wines, “Tatty Bogler” 2020 Chardonnay, Waitaki Valley, North Otago, New Zealand

Image credit: Will Wong

Otago’s early Scottish settlers used scarecrows or ‘tattyboglers’ as they were called, to protect their precious crops from the hungry and unfamiliar New Zealand birdlife.

Central Otago on the South Island of New Zealand is renowned for premium Pinot Noir grapes. This Chardonnay produced in Waitaki Valley, a smaller wine region cocooned by mountains is the southern-hemisphere take on Chablis.

This is fermented in French oak and has explosive aromas of lychee, pastry and nutty brioche. When you take the first sip, it’s a real surprise with refined citrus and quince flavours leading into a much leaner and chalky finish. Try it with poultry, pork, meaty white fish or creamy cheese.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £19.99

Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 2018, Robertson, South Africa

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Multi-award winning ‘Méthode Cap Classique’ (made in the Traditional Method like Champagne) sparkling wine crafted from hand selected Chardonnay on the Graham Beck Robertson estate in Western Cape with its naturally limestone-rich soils. Only the highest quality juice (tête de cuvée) was selected for fermentation.

It spends 48 months on lees before disgorgement and bottling. Its lemon-lime citrus freshness is underlaid with biscuity richness. Bubbles that tinkle with elegance and finesse. These wines have even been sipped by the likes of the late Nelson Mandela and President Barack Obama!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £16.99

If you love Chardonnay, we hope to have introduced you to some you have not tried. If you hate Chardonnay, why not give the unoaked Burgundy or South African sparkling Blanc de Blancs a chance? The bottle looks classy at any dinner party, and is budget friendly without compromising on quality. Cheers!

By Will Wong

Which Wine Should I Drink Now and What Can I Keep?

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So many wines from around the world across price points - how do you pick your bottle or two, or even mix 3-6 with the seasonal and perpetual 25% off deals from supermarkets and High Street retailers? Do you buy wines weekly or keep some away for special occasions? With new wines appearing online and on the shelves all the time, how do you judge price vs quality and which wines are worth keeping? 

For the UK retail market, the average spend on a bottle of wine is between £5 - £6.99. Say on a bottle of £6 wine, only 89p is attributed to the wine itself after excise duty, VAT, packaging, logistics and retail margin. Whilst on a £10 and £20 bottle before discounting, the actual value for the wine itself rises to £2.64 and £6.98 respectively. In other words, you get more wine for your money as you spend more per bottle. That does not mean a £20 bottle of wine is necessarily three times ‘better value for money’ than a £10 one though!

There is also a myth that wines improve over time. Yes and no. Red, white and sparkling wines all have different lifespans. As a ballpark, if you paid under £12 (before discounting) for a bottle of wine, perhaps it is not worth extended keeping. There are always exceptions.

Climate change and market conditions (global wine production in 2023 dropped by 10% from the previous year) add pressure on winemakers and producers to release wines for early consumption. Not many of us have the storage space at home for a cellar, or the intention to invest in the services of commercial storage specialists. It is therefore not surprising to see one UK leading supermarket’s own brand range with ‘Storage: It is recommended that this wine be consumed within 1 year of purchase.’ on the back label. Having said all that, some ‘fine’ or even everyday wines will reward us through patience, and a few common sense storage criteria (see below).

The eight wines below are for illustrative purposes, across generic categories and vintages. Accepting each wine is unique, we hope to inspire you through some general principles, in getting the most enjoyment from each bottle now and well into the future.

Image credit: Will Wong

Rosé 

Most pink wines such as this Miraval Côtes de Provence are meant to be drunk young and fresh. Only keep your rosé in the fridge when ready to open. If stored correctly (see below), this could easily retain its crisp freshness for 2-3 years after purchase. Long gone is the perception that rosé is something you sip by the pool on holiday or only in the summer. Depending on individual wines, some rosé pair well with spicy food and the off-dry varieties stand up to fiery chilli. 

Non-Vintage (NV) Champagne or Sparkling Wines

As a very general rule, drink Prosecco within a year of purchase. On the other hand, NV champagne (those without a year on the label) and sparkling wines such as the Balfour Hush Heath Estate Leslie’s Reserve made in the traditional method with secondary in-bottle fermentation deliver more complex flavours and greater intensity, which may well develop further over 1-5 years if stored properly.

Cava made in the traditional method mostly in Catalunya, when unopened and stored properly, can generally last 1-2 years past the expiration date stated on the label. 

Reds to drink now

e.g. Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, Chianti, Rioja Crianza or other Tempranillo-based wines, and most wines under £12.

Much depends on the grape (inherent acidity and level of tannins in the skin) and also winemaking style. In general, most reds keep longer than still whites due to the tannins (think the slightly bitter and leathery feel from a cup of strong black tea). Even the traditional tannic Bordeaux and Burgundy fine reds are now more approachable when opened relatively young (e.g. vintages 2017/18). 

Rioja (mostly Tempranillo) is a popular red from Spain. It has four ageing categories by law:

• Joven: typically young and fruity, with no minimum ageing requirements and are typically released in the year following the vintage (the year in which the grapes were harvested);

• Crianza: must be aged in oak barrels prior to release. These wines develop additional flavours such as vanilla, smoke and coconut;

• Reserva: such as the above M&S No.21 Lomas del Marques 2015, must be aged for extended periods of time before release, both in oak barrels and in-bottle. The flavours are usually more pronounced and complex than a Crianza. The M&S Reserva 2015 was released in 2021, with a drinking window to 2025; so it is probably peaking now;

• Gran Reserva: subject to the highest minimum ageing requirements and are reflected in their higher prices.

Due to the above ageing requirements, mature Spanish reds are often great value for money when released in the UK, if you prefer wines with greater depth and texture without having to wait another 5-10 years!

Below, we will show you a fine red that is worth keeping.

Whites to drink now

e.g. Pinot Grigio, Viognier / Condrieu, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, Vinho Verde, Albariño and other Galician whites; and most whites under £12.

In recent years, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough have become the Darling Buds of May, or anytime anywhere. When young, they have that zesty acidity, grassy and asparagus nose with a lemony and sometimes flinty palate. It is rarely marketed as an age-worthy white, unlike the fine whites (chardonnay) from Burgundy such as Chablis Grand Cru or Puligny-Montrachet. 

The above Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2022 is regarded as one of the finest from Marlborough with a premium price tag. It is expected to keep up to five years. Nothing is absolute for wine. Far from being over the hill, a bottle of Yealands Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019 from Awatere Valley, Marlborough at less than half the price of the Cloudy Bay was still robust with fresh acidity and a long mineral finish when opened in April 2024. 

We now turn our attention to four categories of wine you might like to keep, if you could resist the temptation.

Image credit: Will Wong

Fine Reds

e.g. most above £12 - Pinot Noir/Red Burgundy, Sangiovese such as Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, Grenache/Garnacha, southern Rhône reds such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Shiraz/Syrah and northern Rhône reds such as Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, Merlot - Right-Bank Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon - Left-Bank Bordeaux, and Nebbiolo - Barolo & Barbaresco. 

The Penfolds Max’s Shiraz 2020 from Adelaide Hills, South Australia was released in 2022; retaining black fruit concentration with high acidity and firm tannins at a whopping 14.5% ABV. These elements together provide the in-bottle conditions to help the tannins soften over time, and develop further complexity till 2031. Of course you can open and drink it now, and it is probably more accessible than its Northern Rhône counterparts (Côte-Rôtie & Hermitage). Given Penfolds’ suggested drinking window, this fine Shiraz is still a baby that needs time to calm down. 

Fine Whites

e.g. most above £12 - Rhône whites such as Hermitage Blanc, Chablis, Chardonnay, white Burgundy, Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Riesling. 

Less famous than Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, and not the most widely grown; Riesling is often hailed as the noble grape by wine professionals, but not consumers who often associate it with German sweet wines with low alcohol. Occasional indecipherable labels in only German do not help either. 

Unlike Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling is renowned for its capacity to develop for years, even decades in bottle. As an aromatic grape varietal, Riesling does not need high alcohol to be made into a variety of wines from dry to off-dry, medium and sweet, and from light to full in body

Yet, if you were to taste a fruity and light Riesling from Mosel, Germany, usually between 8-10% ABV, side by side with a bone dry version at 13% ABV from the Clare or Eden Valley in South Australia, they could not be more different. Other fine Rieslings are also produced in Alsace and Austria; such as the Rabl Schenkenbichl Riesling Reserve 2018 (13% ABV) drinking to 2026 at least.

Vintage Champagne or Sparkling Wines

If you look closely at the above Hattingley Blanc de Blancs 2014 from Hampshire England, it clearly states ‘Traditional Method Brut’ Vintage 2014. In exceptional years, a portion of the best grapes are used to create a Vintage Champagne or Sparkling Wine. ‘Brut’ usually denotes dry due to the high acidity and lively dissolved bubbles in the wine. 

2014 was an exceptional year for some of the finest parcels of Hampshire Chardonnay that were used in creating this Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay). 13% of the wine was fermented in old oak barrels to add a creamy and toasty texture to the palate. Ageing on lees for over five years added further complexity. It was only disgorged in March 2020 and released in 2021. This costly and laborious winemaking method produces fine sparkling wine in small quantities commanding very high prices. 

High quality vintage champagne or sparkling wines should keep for 2-10 years after release, not the vintage year.

Sweet Wines

There are different styles of sweet wines such as the Canadian Icewine and German Eiswein made with frozen grapes. Other famous varieties such as Sauternes and the Hungarian Tokaji Aszú are made from ripe grapes affected by Botrytis (Noble Rot), a fungus that causes the water in the grapes to evaporate, resulting in high concentration of acids, sugars and flavours which are essential to produce premium sweet wines. 

This Disznókõ Tokaji Aszú 2017 is made mainly from Furmint, an indigenous Hungarian grape with natural high acidity very susceptible to botrytis. Tokaji Aszú spends a significant time ageing in oak, giving a balance of intense stone fruits (apricots), citrus fruits with vanilla and smoke, and aromas of dried fruit, caramel and nuts. The sweetness and full-body are balanced by high acidity with a long and intense finish. It is a treat with blue cheese, desserts, foie gras or on its own. The 2017 vintage will continue to develop complex flavours for up to 20 years in the bottle.

How should I store my wines?

Wine is a fragile living thing. Temperature fluctuations and strong direct light are combo killers; so a kitchen wine rack is definitely out. They need a consistent temperature, ideally around 13ºC but anywhere between 10-20ºC is acceptable; so avoid proximity to fireplaces or central heating radiators. 

Avoid placing your wines, especially sparkling wines near direct natural or artificial light.

With cork closure, it’s best to store the bottles on their side in a cool, dry and dark place. Screwcaps can be placed upright.

How long should I keep my wines?

Image credit: Will Wong

As you may have probably realised by now, this is a very difficult question besides the above general guidelines. With fine wines, it might be worth buying 3-12 wines of the same vintage if you have the space, patience and budget to open one periodically. This is a luxury and pleasure in being able to chart your favourite wine’s journey in your home.

Fortunately, help is at hand via a little annual wine bible: Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book (Ed. Margaret Rand) published since 1977. Besides the quick vintage charts as seen above, this little gem lists leading producers from Austria to Uruguay; with special emphasis on Bordeaux producers’ best vintages and their readiness to drink. It is indispensable as an up-to-date succinct reference source.

Last but not least, wines are to be drunk. More and more wines are now made to be consumed sooner rather than later. Having the patience and space to store wines properly is likely to be rewarded. But as Margaret Rand put it, some of these laid down wines might outlive you. It depends on how much you like your heirs.

By Will Wong

Five English Bacchus to Try This Spring

Image credit: Will Wong

Most wine drinkers know Sauvignon Blanc, but what about Bacchus? He was the Roman god of wine and vegetation, who showed mortals how to cultivate grapevines and make wine. Humanity then took at least three millennia to honour his immortal legacy, by naming a hybrid grape after him.

The modern Bacchus grape was born in 1933 when viticulturists Peter Morio and Bernhard Husfeld crossed the Silvaner-Riesling with Müller-Thurgau grapes at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding (now consolidated into the Julius Kühn-Institut, the German Federal Research Centre for Cultivated Plants) in The Pfalz. The hybrid infant was christened as “Geilweilerhof (Gf) 32-29-133”. However, it was not until 1972 that the German authorities approved it for general cultivation; with its divine rebirth to becoming Bacchus. 

As an early ripening grape, Bacchus does not always achieve high enough acidity to make a single varietal wine in its native Germany. It is often used for blending into Müller-Thurgau, to give the latter more flavour. 

With the cooler climate in England, Bacchus grapes are able to retain higher acidity with lower yield. These conditions result in higher quality wines in a style somewhere between premium French and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It is no surprise that Bacchus is increasingly hailed as England’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand. It is now also the fourth most planted grape in the UK after Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the grapes used in making traditional method sparkling wines.

How does Bacchus taste?

The Bacchus grape is often associated with key aromas of hedgerow, elderflower and pear. Some believe that the floral characters of the grape could be more akin to that of its parent, Riesling. 

In the last decade, English winemakers have been experimenting and pushing boundaries with varying styles of Bacchus such as the five examples below. They range from light, floral and zesty, to gooseberry and cut-grass flavours and then the lightly oaked-aged Kit’s Coty Bacchus from Chapel Down, the largest wine producer in England.

What Food Goes with Bacchus?

The aromatic delicate notes and high acidity pair well with Thai green curry, and Vietnamese cuisine, as long as there is no fiery chilli to overpower the wine.

A more traditional pairing would be fresh seafood, or spring vegetables such as English asparagus in season now. You could also serve Bacchus as an apéritif (still or sparkling) with accompanying canapés.

With a little bottle age, preferably under three years, it becomes more gastronomic. Try it with smoked trout, aubergine moussaka, or goat’s cheese.

We now take a tour around southeast England where these five Bacchus are produced, from Essex to Kent and Surrey…

What Bacchus Should I Try?

Tuffon Hall Single Estate Bacchus Amelie 2022, North Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

Angus and Pod Crowther have been running their hundred-year old family farm and vineyard since 2014. Indeed, this very wine is named after their first daughter. It recently won the local conservation farm prize and then the equivalent for the whole of Essex, one of England’s biggest counties. Sustainability is at the heart of their business practices. 

If you are new to Bacchus, the Tuffon Hall is an ideal introduction to a grape that is no poor cousin to Sauvignon Blanc. Cut-grass, asparagus and lemon on the nose. On the palate, there is generous lemon rind and grapefruit with crisp acidity. As the temperature of your wine rises in the glass, its flinty minerality begins to shine with a long finish so best served between 12-14ºC, and not straight out of the fridge.

It pairs well with fresh or smoked seafood. Oysters, crab, prawns, scallops and fresh salmon all work. Try spring vegetables such as English asparagus and broad beans as well as creamy goats cheese.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11.5%
Find here: £15.99

New Hall Wine Estate Single Estate Bacchus 2022, Crouch Valley, Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

In 1969, the first vines were planted at New Hall Farm by Bill and Sheila Greenwood. Two years later in 1971, the first New Hall Vintage was produced from just over 30kg of fruit.  The wine was made and bottled by Mrs Greenwood in her kitchen - a total of 18 bottles.

Today, New Hall is still family-run under the stewardship of Chris Trembath, keeping it within the Greenwood family with Chris’s daughter Becki as General Manager since 2016. She is now the third generation of the family to be working at the vineyard.

Made by the same former head winemaker for the above Tuffon Hall, Steve Gillham created a very different style here. Still very pale and grassy, this Bacchus is more intense with a big personality on the first sip. The grapefruit then comes through with a flinty and steely finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11.5%
Find here: £16.50

Yotes Court ‘On the Nod’ Bacchus 2021, Mereworth, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

Yotes Court is much more than just a vineyard. It boasts an English Heritage Grade 1 listed property originally built for James Masters in 1656, nestled in 20 acres of gardens. It fell into disrepair over time and in 2008, the new owner Susannah Ricci poured her heart and soul into restoring the main house to its former glory, and transformed the other buildings on the Estate: The Clockhouse, Granary and Garden Cottage, which are all Grade 2* listed buildings. 

At 140m above sea level, a former apricot orchard has become one of the highest vineyard block in England. In the early years the fruit was grown exclusively for one of the UK’s leading still and sparkling wine producers, Chapel Down, with 60 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes harvested annually for their Traditional Method sparkling wines. In 2018, Susannah decided to expand the area under vines and planted a further 10 acres with a view to crafting wines under the Yotes Court brand. Their wines are made in collaboration with Defined Wine Ltd outside Canterbury under the guidance of winemaker Nick Lane.

2021 was only the second Bacchus vintage for Yotes Court Vineyard, with 11,000 bottles released. This very vintage was served on board Virgin Atlantic’s Upper Class in June 2023, to celebrate English Wine Week. Compared with Tuffon Hall and New Hall above, this has a much more restrained gooseberry nose and on the palate, it’s all Granny Smith apples followed by pink grapefruit once the wine has had a chance to open up in your glass. Zesty with crisp acidity. Balanced and complex. No need to shout.

So again, avoid serving straight out of the fridge. Take the chilled bottle out 20 minutes ahead and you can keep it cool later. It’s perfect with asparagus and it stood up well against mature cheddar which was a surprise. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £17

Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Bacchus, Single Vineyard, North Downs, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

A premium flagship produce from England’s largest wine producer in both sparkling and still wines. Chapel Down is the Official Sparkling Wine of the England & Wales Cricket Board, as well as the Official English Sparkling Wine of Ascot Racecourse and the Oxford & Cambridge Boat Race. They are also Official Supplier to the London Stock Exchange.

The only lightly oaked Bacchus amongst the five, the Kit’s Coty is an understated and refined gem waiting to be discovered. The nose is subtle and restrained. It definitely is not a copycat of Sauvignon. On the palate, crisp acidity is balanced with green apples and elderflower. 

An elegant and delicate gastronomic wine that pairs well with sushi, but go easy on the wasabi in your soy sauce. Lightly dressed salad also works but avoid vinaigrette dressing or lemon juice that could overpower this wine.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £30

Litmus Orange Bacchus 2022, Dorking Surrey

Image credit: Will Wong

Probably the only English Bacchus made from six weeks of skin contact with no added sulphur during fermentation. This historic method of winemaking has become once again en vogue in recent years with the Pét-Nat and natural wine following. 

Despite it being labelled as an orange or amber wine, it is pale lemon in the glass. It has a pronounced herbaceous nose, with a grassy undertone. Bone dry on the palate, with a gripping astringency due to the tannins from prolonged skin contact, it is one of a kind. If you like dry rosé, this could make an interesting alternative.

This orange Bacchus with notes of fennel is a little reminiscent of contemporary Greek retsina. Its bold flavour is able to stand up to oily meat or fish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £20

Why Bacchus?

England made headlines with outstanding sparkling wines that rival some of the best Champagnes. And now with the warmer climate, the quality and quantity of still wines such as Bacchus are on the rise. 

If you are a fan of the steely Pouilly-Fumé or Sancerre from the Loire in France, or the aromatic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, it is really worth trying English Bacchus that share some of the citrusy and herbaceous characteristics. It is an understated grape that awaits your discovery and appreciation; with lower carbon footprint too.

If you are based in the UK, why not visit your favourite producers this spring and summer? Many have cellar doors and tasting rooms, with open days and guided tours for you to learn more about the people and places behind their labels. Go explore!

By Will Wong