Pinot Meunier

Around the World in 12 Pinot Noir

around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Deutsches Weininstitut

Pinot Noir

The Diva or ‘heartbreak’ grape from Côte d’Or in Burgundy owes its French name to the black pine cone shaped clusters. It is thought to originate from the first century and predates Cabernet Sauvignon by at least a thousand years. Not many grapes could claim Hollywood theme as seen in the 2004 cult film ‘Sideways’; in which Miles (played by Paul Giamatti) ruminated why he is so obsessed with Pinot Noir:

“It’s a hard grape to grow. It’s thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It’s not a survivor like Cabernet which can grow anywhere. Pinot needs constant care and attention … they can only grow in these specific tucked-away corners of the world; and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it … only somebody who takes the time to really understand Pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression … its flavours are just the most haunting, brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.”

The early ripening Pinot Noir is extremely sensitive to terroir (both geography and micro-climate). So much so at a parallel tasting of two 2014 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast in California (East Ridge vs West Ridge), they couldn’t be more different.

Planted somewhere hot, it will ripen too fast and lose all the intricate flavours and nuances Miles is mesmerised with. When done right, Burgundian Grand Crus still set the benchmarks of excellence. Pinot Noir is rarely blended for still wine, except in champagnes with chardonnay and its cousin Pinot Meunier. 

Vins de Bourgogne around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Vins de Bourgogne

Due to the scarcity of land across Burgundy suitable to grow Pinot Noir, and a distinctive constraint in maintaining high quality with low yields on the slopes, many top growers produce very little Bourgogne and good co-operatives are rare. In Burgundy it is the vineyards that have been classified, not the producers as in Bordeaux. The classification is broadly very accurate which divided the land into four ascending grades, Bourgogne, village, premier cru and grand cru with sky-high prices to match.

A tip is to follow the grower, not the Appellation.

A fine Burgundy red is distinctive with its light ruby appearance, that unique raspberry and earthy bouquet, tarty acidity with low tannins, and refreshing lightness when served at the right temperature. Yet, it can be difficult to know what to expect. Etienne Grivot suggests that terroir is like a music score and the grower is like the conductor, with many and varied interpretations possible.

The 2015 vintage of Musigny, produced by the renowned Domaine Leroy, will set you back £175,000 a bottle before duty and tax. It is hard to find a decent entry level Burgundy red for under £15 in the UK. It might even be more challenging to decipher the complex labels and keep up with the vintages. Fortunately, growers in Germany, New Zealand, Oregon and the coolest corners of California, Australia and now England are developing their own authentic styles as we shall explore below.

Food Pairing

When it comes to food pairing, Pinot Noir is the perfect match for duck, game, roast beef, lamb or pork, and steak tartare. With its relative high acidity and natural earthiness, it complements mushroom and tomato based dishes. It will feel at home with Japanese cuisine such as teriyaki and yakitori.

Whites are naturally served with fish, but a lightly chilled Pinot works wonders with monkfish or seared tuna steak. And if you like cauliflower cheese, a simple red Burgundy with its acidity cuts through the super-rich and creamy cheese sauce, turning a simple meal into elevated pleasures. Or how about the more fanciful Beef Wellington? A Pinot from the Willamette Valley in Oregon is just the ticket.

A less obvious gastro affair revealed in Victoria Moore’s ‘The Wine Dine Dictionary’ suggested by Nigel Greening of Felton Road, Central Otago, New Zealand is sipping Pinot with potatoes roasted with thyme; or udon baked with cream and black truffle!

what is pinot noir around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

International Pinot Noir Day: 18 August

Shrouded in mystery, no one seems to know for sure why 18 August each year is designated to honour the Diva grape. But that should not stop us from tasting around the globe, with a range of Pinot Noir from twelve regions across nine countries; from Australia to Wales. Seat belts are entirely optional!

They share the fundamental characteristics of Burgundy but that’s also where the similarities end. No two are alike. We travel from the UK High Street to specialist independents offering value-for-money alternatives; including a few organic and biodynamic unfined and unfiltered options.

Above all else, Pinot Noir should be served on the cool side between 14-16ºC. In high summer or even indoors during winter, it’s best to chill the bottle for at least 30 minutes before serving. It is not one to bake in the outdoor sun whilst cooking your favourite BBQ on the patio. Beyond 20ºC, it is very likely to lose its pronounced bouquet, tasting flat if not lifeless. Very few reds will so demonstrably be resurrected when lightly chilled before serving.

AUSTRALIA

Giant Steps Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2022, Victoria

AUSTRALIA  Giant Steps Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2022, Victoria around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Australia is best known for its legendary Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra or Margaret River, or Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. Much lesser known is her first great cool clime Pinots from the Yarra Valley, northeast of Melbourne in the state of Victoria. The landscape here with its gullies, folds, hillsides, and valley floors undulates so unpredictably that vineyards face all points of the compass. Most of the valley enjoys cool nights, with the nearby Southern Ocean evening out the differences between day and night temperatures. 

Giant Steps was founded by the Australian wine industry pioneer Phil Sexton, who ventured from Margaret River to Yarra Valley to find the ideal site to cultivate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of purity and finesse. Phil found his holy grail near Gruyere in the Sexton vineyard, which he planted in 1997 on the steep slopes of the Warramate Ranges. A mad jazz fan, Phil named the winery after John Coltrane’s album and fitting metaphor “Giant Steps.”

The 100% hand-harvested 2022 fruit was high quality but low yield. Winemaker Mel Chester favours low-intervention, using wild fermentation with eight months in 10% new French oak. The wine was bottled by gravity without fining or filtration.

Darker than some of the other Pinots on our flight, this is a medium-bodied wine of substance. Sour cherries dominate its nose. Robust with medium cellaring potential. More suited as a gastro wine and extremely moreish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £30.00 London End Wines

CHILE

De Martino Reserva Legado Pinot Noir 2022, Limarí

CHILE  De Martino Reserva Legado Pinot Noir 2022, Limarí around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

In just two decades, Chilean Pinot Noir plantings grew exponentially from around 400 hectares in 1997 to over 4000 today. The grape being notoriously difficult, quality has also improved substantially. Valle del Limarí north of the capital Santiago is right by the Pacific coast. Its limestone soils convey a chalky and mineral expressions in the Pinot.

This is from a selection from the famous Talinay Vineyard, planted around 2008 on the calcareous hills of the Coastal Range in the Limarí Valley, about 13 kilometres from the sea. It spent 12 months ageing in barrels, resulting in a very pale crimson cherry juice with fine tannins and a medium finish. Serve with charcuterie or roast chicken.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.99 Waitrose Cellar

ENGLAND

Riverview Crouch Valley Pinot Noir 2021, Essex

ENGLAND  Riverview Crouch Valley Pinot Noir 2021, Essex around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Crouch Valley in Essex, southeast England is hot wine property. Here, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. The River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. In 2018, they converted 4 hectares /11 acres of family arable land on gentle south-westerly slopes in the village of Hullbridge facing the River Crouch into a vineyard. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay featured here. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Probably the most mercurial amongst the twelve Pinots here. Never judge a wine by its colour in the glass. Its pale ruby defies the actual substance of their debut Pinot Noir, aged in French oak for 12 months. Dark cherries on the nose with high tart acidity and low tannins. Somewhat Burgundian in character and complexity that pairs beautifully with mushroom risotto. 

Very sensitive to temperature change. Must serve cool (14-16ºC) to savour its freshness. On the hottest day of the year in England to date (34ºC on 12 August 2024), the last third warming up in the decanter was poured back into the bottle and quickly re-chilled. The wine was resurrected after 15 minutes. Try it.

This is one wine that should further develop in bottle over the next 3-5 years if stored correctly. Grab a few out of the 900 bottles produced, and report back in 2027!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00 Riverview Crouch Valley

FRANCE

Burgundy - Definition by Majestic Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020

FRANCE  Burgundy - Definition by Majestic Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2020 around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

The Definition range brings the world's greatest wine styles to Majestic customers. A new addition to the refreshed range, this Bourgogne is made by Doudet-Naudin, one of the oldest local and well-respected Maison, founded in 1849 by Albert Brenot in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Winemaker Christophe Rochet blends grapes from two large plots in the south of the Côte de Beaune, using traditional methods to make a wine with unmistakable Burgundian charm. Aromatics of ripe blackcurrant and cherry are followed by flavours of fruit and spice, and velvety tannins. A natural match for poultry or meats, including sausages, veal escalope, mushroom dishes and pâté. Accessible and good value for a Bourgogne. Oh là là!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £19.99 or £17.99 Mix Six, Majestic

Jura - Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir 2023

Jura - Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir 2023 around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

To the east of Burgundy where France rises towards the Alps bordering Switzerland lies the tiny and remote region of Jura, not to be confused with the Scotch whisky. Côtes du Jura is renowned as a gastronomic locus for food and wine pairing. Welcome to the bijou region for organic and ‘natural’ wines in eastern France. With high demand and low supply, Jura wines are rarely seen on supermarket shelves. 

Mother of three, Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet is one of the few female winemakers in the Jura. She took over her family’s wine estate in 2008 and manages her 4.5 hectares from vine to cellar door herself. Located in Château-Chalon, the most traditional part of the Jura, her reds are carefully sorted at harvest and manually de-stemmed before going into CO2-filled tanks to avoid using SO2 at bottling. No oak is used, resulting in a deliciously full-fruit flavour with a touch of CO2  that disappears with some aeration.

She is very keen to keep the estate small, so she can take care of the vineyards personally, and everything is worked in a sustainable way. The atmospheric cellars at the farm are full of old wood from large foudres down to fûts and feuillettes.

Besides its signature bottle shape with JURA embossed across the shoulder, this Pinot is super-fresh when lightly chilled. For such a young wine, its medium body retains a firm structure with soft tannins. Layers of subtle minerality with a long savoury finish. Excellent with Parma Ham and Peaches with a dash of Balsamic Vinegar. Summer in a bottle.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £28.10 Les Caves de Pyrene

GERMANY

Pfalz - Walt Pinot Noir 2020

GERMANY  Pfalz - Walt Pinot Noir 2020 around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Situated to the south-east of Frankfurt, the Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine region: a long stretch of vineyards north of Alsace in France forming the Deutsche Weinstrasse, the most famous of all German wine routes along the sunniest and driest part of the country. With the region sheltered by the Haardt mountains to the west, the climate is very similar to that of Alsace. Although Riesling dominates here, we are exploring the sublime yet underrated Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir in German).

Back in 1897, in Wiesbaden, the firm Walter S. Siegel GmbH was started by its eponymous founder. Having acquired vineyards in Westhofen in Rheinhessen, the company was formed to sell his own wines, as well as various prestigious estates in other regions. In 1937 Herr Siegel’s son, Hans, formed Walter S. Siegel Ltd., in London with England Test Cricketer Ian Peebles through which they imported wines from Germany and France.

Light garnet in colour, this easy-drinking Pinot Noir opens up with beautiful aromas of baking spice, strawberry, raspberry, and blueberry. Hints of forest floor and earthy mushrooms. The palate has layered flavours of hearty berries intermingled with savoury notes of spice and minerality. The structure creates an interesting texture that finishes with hints of anise. Pairs well with richer chicken dishes, soft cheeses or tomato-based pasta dishes.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £12.99 Adnams 

Württemberg - Schnaitmann Steinwiege Pinot Noir 2017

Württemberg - Schnaitmann Steinwiege Pinot Noir 2017 around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Despite being Germany’s fourth-largest wine producing region, Württemberg is much lesser known abroad. It has a continental climate that constraints where best to plant vines.

Known as the "Prince of Württemberg”, Rainer Schnaitmann is one of the most respected Pinot Noir producers in Germany. Founded in 1997 with a simple vision, Weingut Schnaitmann is a family-owned winery known for crafting precise and high-quality wines that express the unique terroir of Württemberg. This commitment to detail and sustainability defines their winemaking philosophy.

Organic and Biodynamic, it has a distinctive Burgundian earthy nose revealing sour cherries, blueberries and cassis. For a change, serve this a little on the warm side (16°C). On the palate, it is a little savoury and smokey with silky tannins, suggesting further cellaring potential. Smooth with a long finish. Perfect with German pork knuckle or Black Forest ham with sauerkraut. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £29.99 The General Wine Company

NEW ZEALAND

Framingham Nobody’s Hero Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough

NEW ZEALAND  Framingham Nobody’s Hero Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

A small country in terms of population and relatively isolated geographically, New Zealand (NZ) has become a global wine trade export powerhouse in just fifty years. There are many small-scale vineyards with no wineries of their own. Contract winemaking is big business here. 

It was Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough on the northern tip of its South Island that put NZ wines on the world map. Pinot Noir is the most important red wine grape that is mostly planted in Martinborough on the North Island, and Marlborough, Canterbury and Central Ortago on the South Island.

The original vineyard was established in 1981, by Wellingtonian engineer Rex Brooke-Taylor who took the name ‘Framingham’ from his ancestral home town near Norwich, England. This Marlborough winery takes pride in doing things a little differently. Their approach to winemaking is inspired by those who step out of the mainstream, be it music legends, artists or winemakers.

Framingham hosts an outdoor rock concert every year, the Framingham Harvest Concert with an audience of 450-odd people. Up and coming bands from New Zealand take to the stage, including Renwick Nudes the local winery band. Originally a wine cellar and wine library, “Framingham Underground” is now home to pop-up gigs, art exhibitions and a band room where Renwick Nudes practise.

Sour cherries on the nose with intense fruits. First sip: this is bold! Best served lightly chilled and decanted an hour ahead. It took time to open up. Good structure with hints of chocolate mid-palate. Pair with seared tuna steak.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £17.99 or £12.99 Mix Six Majestic

ROMANIA

Încânta Pinot Noir 2022

ROMANIA  Încânta Pinot Noir 2022 around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Despite its Soviet legacy, Romania shares closer cultural affinities with France than its neighbours. Its Pinot Noir was popular abroad in the 1980s and 90s; but did not appeal to Romanians themselves, who prefer their reds big and dark.

In 1988, three families decided to revive the former state-owned 700 hectare Cramele Recas Estate with a 20 million Euro investment. Today, Englishman Philip Cox and his Romanian wife, Elvira co-own this state-of-the-art winery that over-delivers. 

Produced for Majestic UK, Încânta is the Romanian verb meaning to enchant, charm or delight. This value-for-money Pinot punches way above its price point – and the 2020 vintage was awarded 90 points by Tim Atkin MW. Serve straight out of the fridge. No need to decant. Enjoy this light and ready-to-drink summer beauty with notes of fresh black cherry, raspberry and cinnamon. Try its juicy flavours with a classic charcuterie board.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £9.99 or £7.99 Mix Six, Majestic

UNITED STATES

California - Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2022, Santa Rosa, Sonoma County

UNITED STATES  California - Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2022, Santa Rosa, Sonoma County around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Over 80% of all North American wine is grown in California (CA), more wine than in any country outside Europe. Across swathes of the huge CA state, summers are much drier than in Europe. Rainfall is concentrated in the early months of the year; topping up the reservoirs essential for summer irrigation. As autumn rains are unusual, the long ripening season contributes to the potency of CA wines in both flavour and alcohol level. 

Whilst CA is famed for the bold and long-ageing Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, Pinot Noir thrives in the cooler coastal vineyards north and south of San Francisco. Up to 80% of the Pinot grapes in this Kendall-Jackson wine were sourced from Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties. 

Founded in 1982 by Jess Jackson (1930-2011), a San Francisco lawyer and billionaire wine entrepreneur, Kendall-Jackson’s Chardonnay won the first-ever Platinum Award for an American Chardonnay at The American Wine Competition. He was also one of the first winemakers to introduce varietal-specific wine to America, raising public awareness on wine and making it more affordable.

Since then, Kendall-Jackson has been championing environmental sustainability from energy efficiency to waste management and conservation. In 2019, together with Familia Torres of Spain, Kendall-Jackson co-founded the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) to decarbonise the global wine industry. 

Barrel aged in French oak for 8 months, this Pinot Noir has expressive hints of toast, vanilla, and cedar aromas. This dark garnet wine delivers bright cherry, strawberry and raspberry aromas with cola and mild spice accents. Pair with fillet mignon, a stacked burger or cheeseboard.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Find here: £19.99 or £17.99 Mix Six. Majestic

Oregon - Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley

Oregon - Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir 2019, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

If there is a corner in the Pacific Northwest that resembles Burgundy’s climate, it is the Willamette Valley in Oregon. The Coast Range to its west acts as a buffer, letting Pacific clouds and humidity wash across the vineyards in cool summers and damp autumns. These micro-climate influences lead to earlier maturing Pinots compared with their European counterparts, but earthier and often more complex than those grown in other New World regions.

Their story began in 1971 when Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser planted their first vines in Dundee Hills. This 128-acre site is blessed with a high altitude and warm nights, and red-tinged volcanic soil with good drainage, and exposure to rainfall and light crucial to optimum ripeness in cloudy Oregon. At the time, there was no wine industry in Oregon. There are now over 900 wineries and more than 37,000 acres of planted vineyards. Today as second generation growers, Alex, Alison and Nik Sokol Blosser continue to shape the ever prominent Oregon wine industry through their commitment to sustainable viticulture and winemaking. Sokol Blosser is a certified B-Corp. 

After an inviting black cherry nose, the first sip suggests this is a gutsy organic Pinot with a bold personality. Complex with savoury spice. Medium-bodied with balanced acidity and light oak (17 months in French barriques), its structure will continue to develop over the next three years with careful cellaring. Perfect match with roast duck, mushroom risotto or salmon fillet glazed with Dijon mustard; when served lightly chilled (14-16ºC).

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £36.40 Les Caves de Pyrene

WALES

Ancre Hill Pinot Noir 2020, Monmouth 

WALES  Ancre Hill Pinot Noir 2020, Monmouth around the world in 12 pinot noir the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

While English wines have been gaining their well-deserved recognition over the past two decades, there is much to shout about Welsh wines. Their hidden gems are rarely available on the UK High Street. From rural Monmouthshire in the southeast corner of Wales on the border with England, Ancre Hill Estates is Demeter certified biodynamic and organic with minimal intervention in their winemaking. 

This magical place and their philosophy enticed winemaker Jean du Plessis to relocate from South Africa with his partner and Max, the black cat on the label to endure quarantine before he was allowed to enter Wales. 

With skin maceration, whole bunch pressing and carbonic maceration, fermentation was finished in oak and stainless steel for ageing on gross lees for a minimum of two years. No filtration, no fining. It throws a little sediment so best stand the bottle upright for an hour in the fridge before decanting.

This super-light organic and biodynamic Pinot at 11% ABV is perfect for the summer. It is just so so fresh. Utterly moreish and quaffable when lightly chilled. With no insecticides, pesticides or herbicides from grape to bottle, it’s not cheap but you will taste the difference.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £34.20 Les Caves de Pyrene

BEFORE WE GO …

We hope the above discovery world tour has inspired you to try the different styles beyond Burgundy and New Zealand. If you are new to Pinot Noir, its inherent earthiness sets it apart from most other reds.

The Diva grape is not born for the bargain booze trade. With Burgundy prices on the rise, better value is found in say, Languedoc in the south of France. 

The early ripening Pinot is facing serious challenges from climate change and global warming. If freshness and a sense of place are what appeal, look for cool clime Pinots from England, Wales, Germany, Tasmania and perhaps Oregon (US). Quality comes with a price and these regions could not compete with Chile or South Africa on volume or their much lower costs of production. 

And if you remember what Miles said in the film ‘Sideways’, that most haunting and ancient flavours on the planet await. Merlot is altogether a different story and sour grape for him.

By Will Wong

will wong drinklusive the three drinkers

12 of the Best Wines for English Wine Week 2024

the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Mention English wine and you may get three types of responses. Preaching to the converted, still an overall minority; or those who remember trying a few sparklers, usually from the big and established producers. The rest didn’t even know wines are made in England, or believe they are generally overpriced and not very good. Does that resonate with your experience?

In fact, there are now almost a thousand vineyards scattered across England alone, including over 200 commercial wineries. The paradox of climate change and global warming has benefited English vineyards in general. In 2022, total production was up by 36% year-on-year. 2023 saw a bumper harvest in which the UK experienced higher-than-ever yields and bunch numbers due to the volume of rain throughout the growing season. So, the only way is up, right?

What is the English Wine Week?

What is the English Wine Week? the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

The first English Wine Week (EWW) was launched in 2006 when Laura Rhys MS was a sommelier struggling to convince consumers of the merits of English sparkling. Now, Rhys, a brand ambassador for Gusbourne Estate, can legitimately pitch the Fifty-One Degrees North, Gusbourne’s prestige cuvée (and the most expensive English wine on the UK market at £195), against the likes of Dom Perignon. In just under three decades, the English wine scene has progressed by leaps and bounds. 

In 2024, EWW officially runs from Saturday 15th to Sunday 23rd June. Producers and vineyards across the land, including the four urban wineries in London are throwing parties and special popup events. It is the perfect opportunity to spend your holidays and weekends with a stay or trip to your local vineyard, celebrating at a wine festival, and then taking home a couple of bottles to share your experience with friends. The WineGB website has a dedicated page on how to get the most out of EWW 2024.

To mark this special occasion, this bumper edition takes you on a tasting tour with twelve very different wines from Suffolk to the Crouch Valley in Essex (one of the most sought after vine-growing spots), then through Kent and Sussex to Dorset and finally weather-permitting tropical Cornwall. You might see a few familiar and favourite labels, and be surprised by others. Above all, we wish to champion some lesser known but worthy contenders on the ever expanding English wine stage; not just at home but extending far and wide to the United States, Scandinavia and Japan.

The Best English White Wines

In volume terms, still wines account for around a third in total production compared with sparkling. The marginal climate and erratic weather patterns in Britain do not ensure consistent ripening conditions for grapes; at least before the 1980s. Vine-growers back then experimented with German varietals such as the white Müller-Thurgau and Reichensteiner, which had a higher chance of early ripening in cooler climates. It is also much more challenging to make decent still wines with unripe grapes and their overt acidity.

Wine writer Henry Jeffreys recalled the trailblazer Gillian Pearkes with her 1981 book ‘Vinegrowing in Britain’: while everyone else was looking to Germany for inspiration, she saw that France and specifically Champagne and Chablis could be a model for viticulture in England. As well writing on the subject, Pearkes planted her own vineyard at Yearlstone in Devon, acted as mentor to Bob Lindo at Camel Valley in Cornwall and encouraged Stuart and Sandy Moss at Nyetimber: “Find the right site and you will grow Chardonnay in England,” 

Four decades on, Chardonnay and Bacchus (covered in our previous guides) are now the most planted white grapes in England. Although they are yet to gain comparable international standings as the sparklers, quality has improved beyond imagination as producers experiment with sites and signature styles. Below are two outstanding Chardonnay and two Pinot Gris (related to Pinot Grigio) with very different characters.

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

‘The only question that matters is who’s going to buy your wine’

~ Charles Simpson

Charles and Ruth Simpson started their wine business as Domaine Saint Rose in Languedoc, southern France in 2002. By 2012, they saw the potential and moved back to England. After buying a 12 hectares / 30-acre site with lime-rich chalk soil in the North Downs in Kent, similar to the terroir in Champagne and Burgundy, Simpsons’ Wine Estate was born. Followed by their own winery in 2016, they now own three vineyard sites covering 38 hectares / 112 acres. 

Whilst most new vineyard owners opted for the sparkling clones (safer for Britain’s cool climate but needs a much longer time span before any wines are ready to be released), Ruth Simpson hatched a bet with planting some non-sparkling clones; hoping to sell still wines before their first sparkling is ready for the market. The high-quality and bumper 2018 vintage firmly established the Simpsons brand. 

This unoaked Chardonnay seems to have two personalities. Those who love the classic lush tropical fruits on its nose will be drawn instantly. Or if you are ‘anything but Chardonnay’, the greatest surprise came when paired with smoked haddock risotto. It turned flinty with a long finish like a Chablis. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.74 (25% off £16.99 till 02/07/2024)

The Only Way is Essex

Tell your wine snob friends about ‘Grapes from Essex’ and raise a few eyebrows. Crouch Valley to be precise, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. No, this is not a joke about Essex. It is no secret to most in the wine trade that many of the UK’s best-known wine producers, from the southernmost vineyards of the country and all the way up north, are buying fruit from Essex and have done so for many years. Instead of the chalky soil at Simpsons in Kent, the River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. Working with the highly respected viticulturist Duncan McNeill, the family converted 4 hectares / 11 acres of their arable land facing the River Crouch into a vineyard back in 2017. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

After harvest, the grapes are transported to Devon-based Lyme Bay Winery who has been sourcing grapes from Essex, where winemakers James Lambert and Sarah Massey produce the wine for Riverview Crouch Valley. Their debut 2020 Chardonnay received critical acclaim from critics and buyers alike. At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

With its classic and simple label showing off the now famous River Crouch, this is one of England’s finest. There is not yet any typical English Chardonnay style. It does not try to be Burgundian or Australian / Californian. Despite its pale lemon appearance in the glass, the nose is lush with restrained tropical fruits. Nothing shouty here. Hints of vanilla comes through the brief oak ageing in old French barriques. The palate has subdued stone fruit with a little smokiness which is unusual for a Chardonnay. Whichever camp of ABC you belong to, this is a serious gastro wine that calls for your attention. A match made in heaven with roast chicken as Katie suggested, or even roast pork. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Back in the 1960s, Maurice and Ruth Ash moved with their Jersey cows from Essex on the train to the Sharpham Estate over-looking the River Dart in South Devon. Over time, they planted some trial vines on the sunny south-facing slope in front of Sharpham House. Successes were steady with the next generation of vine-growers and winemakers in the Ash's nephew, Mark Sharman and Duncan Schwab, head winemaker and now CEO, who joined the team in 1992.

Then in 2008, Sharpham were approached by the owner of Sandridge Barton Estate on the eastern riverbank for help with planting vines on the basis that Sharpham might take the grapes. The terroir and its proximity was godsend to expand Sharpham’s acreage by 120%. And finally in 2020, Sharpham built its own solar-powered, with rain and waste-water harvesting 120,000 bottle capacity two-level winery adjacent to where the majority of the fruit is sourced. That culminated in the decision to relocate and rebrand as Sandridge Barton, with a fully-fledged visitor centre and cafe since 2022. 

Only 3300 bottles were released. Unfined, unfiltered with minimal sulphur, this experimental orange wine had two-week skin contact with indigenous yeast during fermentation. It is a little like the natural wines made with amphora from Georgia. Taut acidity with firm tannins. Due to the lees in the bottle, expect cloudiness so best stand the bottle upright for at least an hour before opening. Decant and serve at room temperature with Carpaccio. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 10.5%
Find here: £21.00

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Oast – a kiln for drying hops. Brook – a small natural stream.

Oastbrook is located on a beautiful farm by the banks of the River Rother, only a stone’s throw from Bodiam Castle in East Sussex. It had been owned by Guinness for the farming of hops as the Oast houses themselves were used for drying the hops. 

The wine estate is the brainchild of husband Nick and wife America Brewer who grew up in the Bahia region of Brazil. Nick used to work in finance internationally but retrained at Plumpton College as a winemaker. America was top of her year in plant biology on her BSc in viticulture and oenology at Plumpton. She planted her first vines at Oastbrook only in 2017. They tell their own story here.

Nick described their wines as America’s sunshine and charismatic personality in bottles. The couple passionately believe in sustainable ecology starting with soil health. “Learn from the grapes and don’t copy others” is their shared motto. With the range of activities and amenities on site, their dedication to the land, produce and community with business acumen is evident. 

Only 2250 bottles of the 2023 Pinot Gris were released. Its nose could easily fool you as a Riesling with hints of petrol. A full-bodied unoaked gastro wine with citrus acidity and a long mineral finish. Think Bacchus or Sauvignon Blanc with greater intensity and texture. It pairs well with sautéed king prawns and asparagus pasta tossed in pesto. Abundant substance to lay down for a couple of years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.50

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Haphazard weather means variation in grape ripeness from vintage to vintage. The earlier varietals such as Madeleine Angevine, Dornfelder, Regent or Rondo seem to have fallen out of fashion to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier which are used in making Traditional Method sparkling wines. But are rosés the answer to harnessing less than fully ripened black grapes? To date, there is no uniform signature English rosé style as in Provence. In global volume terms, English rosé is still a cottage industry through trial and error at the mercy of changing climate. When done well, there are hidden gems that are unique and not copycats of Provence or Italy. 

It is only in the last five years quality still wine is made out of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The amount of vineyards in Britain that are growing still wine grapes is probably in the low hundreds of hectares, which is the equivalent of one village in France worth of vineyard area. 

Producing a serious still Pinot Noir is even more demanding. Winemakers want the colour from the skin, which must be fully ripe – or they risk extracting harsh green tannins from it. It can be tricky to get the ripeness levels and style of fruit needed even with warmer summers over the last decade or so; according to Laura Rhys at Gusbourne. 

We have found four shining examples of English rosé and Pinot Noir well worth savouring.

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Giffords Hall is a family owned vineyard planted on the site of an ancient glacial riverbed near Long Melford in Suffolk. The sandy/clay soil in the East Anglian desert as proprietor Linda Howard calls it produces quality grapes high in natural sugars and acids, that lend themselves particularly well to both sparkling and dry, aromatic still wines.

The Howards initially bought an established vineyard which is now 35 years old. The Giffords Hall label was officially launched in 2009 with a Rosé and a Bacchus still wine. Since 2020, Linda has managed the vineyard and winery with her daughter Ellie and son Harry together with a small team. 

In the bottle and glass, this rosé is very pale salmon pink from a careful blend of hand-picked Madeleine Angevine and Rondo, a deep red grape. Fresh strawberries on the nose and when served at 12ºC, it reveals its true flinty character which works beautifully with smoked wild Alaskan salmon and boiled new potatoes. Long finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023 the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Husband-and-wife team Tom and Elisha Cannon decided to be an independent negociant sourcing the finest grapes grown on the best, family-owned and run vineyards across Kent, Suffolk and Sussex. Not restricted by historic rules or traditions, Folc was born in 2019 as an English rosé to rival the best from Provence. 

Folc makes only rosé; and in this case they have blended seven varieties of grapes from Pinot Noir to Bacchus and Ortega. Where the black grapes give the wine its ripe red fruit flavours of wild strawberries, raspberries and cranberries, the white grapes work in harmony to form an ensemble with a crisp and textural long finish. It is a serious pink gastro wine that compliments pan fried salmon wrapped in bacon with steamed greens. Serve well chilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £21.99

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

The name Knightor is intriguing in itself. You can read about the history behind its brand here. Today, Knightor Winery is a boutique enterprise situated not far from the Eden Project and St Austell Brewery in Cornwall. They make premium quality, limited production English wines from grapes grown in English vineyards, and their own vines at Portscatho on the Roseland Peninsula, and Seaton on the south Cornish coast. It has also become an established Cornish wedding venue and rustic events space.

Retired IT professional Adrian Derx the owner is a down-to-earth entrepreneur. It is hard to imagine young winemaker David Brocklehurst already at the helm for twelve years and counting, creating a range of eclectic wines including a Riesling! Far more than just a vineyard with winery tours, there is also a restaurant and bar on site. and how about Sunday roast in their winery?

Its Alsatian or German style bottle, together with a distinctive cartography label really stands out. Unfined and unfiltered, so best stand the bottle upright for an hour before opening. Decant to separate its natural sediment and let the young wine open up. Dark fruits and bramble on the nose, followed by soft but well structured tannins and fresh acidity that will see this wine further develop over the next 2-3 years. A long and satisfying smoky finish that really puts Cornwall on the map for English wines. Pairs well with roast chicken or BBQ prawns. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.95

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Everyone in the UK wine trade has heard of the veteran vinegrower and wine maker Will Davenport, who began his career as a wine merchant in England in the 1980s. He then studied for a post-graduate diploma in oenology at Roseworthy College in Adelaide, South Australia. On returning to England, he worked at a vineyard in Hampshire with amazing grapes but very poor English wines no one wanted back then.

In 1991, Davenport planted his first five acres (two hectares) of vines at his parents’ apple farm in Horsmonden, Kent. He now owns 24 acres (10 hectares) across 5 plots, and fully converted to organic in 2000. Organic might sound admirable but remains a persistent challenge in the British cool climate with erratic rainfall patterns and humidity, making the vines prone to diseases. 

Firmly believing in the potential of great fruit from healthy vines, instead of using chemicals in the vineyard and winery, Davenport has been consistently creating both whites and reds with a depth of character. His wines inspired former music producer Adrian Pike to work as a winemaker under Will, before setting up his Westwell label. Other notable ex-apprentices include Peter Morgan (ex Nyetimber), Ben Walgate (ex Tillingham), and Ben Witchell (Flint in Norfolk). 

This Pinot Noir is sourced from the 5-acre organic Redmoors vineyard planted in 2016. Whole berries were fermented with natural yeasts, matured in oak for 18 months and bottled without filtration before release a further 20 months on. It is light in style comparable to a refined German Spätburgunder rather than the more intense Pinot Noir from Central Ortago, New Zealand or Oregon in the USA. Aromatic with complex red fruit and balanced acidity. 

Only 260 bottles were made.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £24.20

The Best English Sparkling Wine

The Best English Sparkling Wine the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

For anyone who is already familiar with English wine, chances are they tasted a sparkling at some point. The international success of English sparkling wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, when in the 1990s producers realised respectable bubblies could be made in the traditional method just like champagne, with the three classic grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in chalky soil across southeast England. 

That momentum was further confirmed in 2015 when Tattinger, one of the most respectable Champagne houses acquired land just outside Faversham in Kent. Planting of vines took place in May 2017, followed by Champagne Pommery launching its first English sparkling wine, made in partnership with Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. 

Over the last five years, UK production has been consistently ⅔ sparkling and ⅓ still, with 80% of plantings coming from Champagne varietals. To put in context, in the UK we produce 12 million bottles a year, Dom Perignon alone produces roughly 5 million, and it is this scarcity that contributes to the high price point of English wine. 

The question is: could the finest English sparkling match the quality and prestige of Champagne? 

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

‘Nyetimber is possibly the most famous of all the English sparkling wine producers, largely because of the reputation they built up on the first wines they made in the early 1990s. These were the first bottles that made people realise that English sparkling wine wasn’t just good: it could be world class.’ Dr Jamie Goode 

The Nyetimber effect actually traces back to an anglophile couple from Chicago, Sandy and Stuart Moss who knew little about winemaking. In the 1980s, they spotted a gap in quality sparkling wine. After investing in a hugely professional operation with premium style exclusivity as focus, their first wine made from Chardonnay planted in 1988 and made in 1992, won best sparkling wine in England. Their second, a blend of all three classic grapes from 1993, won best non-champagne sparkling wine in the world at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in 1998. The couple returned to the US in 2001, and Nyetimber has since had two changes in ownership and management. 

Under the stewardship of Eric Heerema, Cherie Spriggs at Nyetimber was the first non-Champenois and woman winemaker to win the prestigious ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ award at the International Wine Challenge 2018. Hence, the Nyetimber range has become a benchmark for English sparkling the world over.  

Nowadays, Nyetimber owns more vines than most of the major label Champagne houses. They are able to source vastly contrasting parcels of fruit in producing as many as 115 batches of base wine across their three county holdings. This advantage enables multi-vintage blending to create a consistent ‘house style’, which is common practice for the established Champagne houses across the Channel.

The Classic Cuveé is the flagship multi-vintage blend with mostly Chardonnay, followed by Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If you want to know the precise details, look at the back label and you will find a very long number in the bottom left corner. On its website, you could submit that to reveal a precise chronology of each bottle, detailing the important moments of bottling, riddling and disgorging.

With a bouquet of baked apples and toasted brioche, it has balanced acidity with a creamy mouthful and lemon pastry that outshines many non-vintage (NV) Champagne at a similar price point. When stored correctly (on its side, in darkness away from direct light and heat), most NV sparkling wine should continue to evolve with complexity and intensity. It pairs effortlessly with smoked salmon, sushi, oysters, scallops and even asparagus. Serve well chilled. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: On offer at £29.00, down from £42 till 25/06/2024.

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

It is no coincidence we are recommending two Nyetimber; for the above is a totally different experience. Made with 100% Chardonnay, it’s off dry and yet refreshing. The very fine bubbles offer an inviting biscuity nose followed by lemon zest on the palate. Try it with fruit tarts, custard tarts and Pasteis de nata, Crème Brûlée or strong blue cheeses. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42.99 or £29.99 Mix Six 

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Busi Jacobsohn is a modern fairy tale where Swedish-born Douglas Jacobsohn and his Italian-born wife Susanna Busi fell in love with Blackdorn Farm in Eridge. Across their five hectares, they planted an equal split of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, leaving 20% to Pinot Meunier.

Douglas spent most of his career in the marine insurance business. That perhaps explains his foresight in future-proofing by installing a drainage system beneath their vineyard, helping rainwater run off and letting their prized grapes ripen over the naturally heat-retaining sandstone. 

With the ethos of grower champagnes, they only produce single estate vintage wines not relying on blending to create a house style. 

The 2018 Blanc de Noirs is made with handpicked Pinot Noir (78%) and Pinot Meunier (22%). It is effervescent with balanced red apple acidity and mild toast on the palate. Bone dry with medium finish which is expected to further develop over 3-5 years. Pairs well with creamy crab pasta and Comté; but not Gorgonzola as Susanna advised; and she was absolutely right.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £48.00

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Everything about Gusbourne is premium. Its name is associated with John de Goosebourne’s Appledore estate first mentioned in 1410. South African orthopaedic surgeon Andrew Weeber bought this site in 2003, with their first release in 2010. Nowadays, the company is listed on the Alternative Investment Market (AIM), with Lord Ashcroft as the main shareholder of the Gusbourne Estate. The vines now spread across 60 hectares (150 acres) at Appledore with the winery, and a further 30 hectares (75 acres) in West Sussex near Greenwood.

Gusbourne only produces vintage still and sparkling wines; with no intention of blending. Long lees ageing is the norm that results in softened acidity with added complexity. Their range of sparkling wine is impressive in quality whose unique characters come alive when you have a food pairing seasonal lunch on site. Or you could have a relaxed picnic among the vines.

Our last showcase of the dozen is truly a special occasion gem. First tasted when Laura Rhys offered at the 2022 WineGB tasting, it was once sipped, forever smitten.

63% Chardonnay and 37% Pinot Noir went into this late disgorged marvel. Light gold in colour with a fine mousse and aromas of citrus peel, alongside brioche and biscuit notes. Due to extended lees ageing, the palate is creamy and complex with flavours of buttered toast and delicate spice leading to a long, intense and unforgettable finish. Perfect with roast chicken, seared tuna steaks or rich vegetarian moussaka. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £105.00

The Future of English Wine

The quality of English sparkling wine (ESW) is firmly established against their Champagne counterparts. If you were to taste blind, you might surprise yourself to find your favourite pick turn out to be an ESW. However, with the average spend on a bottle of wine being under £7 in the UK, it is highly unlikely that a typical household sees an ESW as part of essential weekly shopping. That takes us to the emerging and ever improving still wines; which form the first two-thirds of this special English Wine Week edition. 

Production volume is minuscule by global standards with export markets still in their infancy. With high labour and production costs, and escalating prime land prices, English wine will never be able to compete with Argentina, Chile or South Africa on price alone. Output has to rise substantially, which again depends on the vintage. In the long run, entry level English still wines might need to find a price point below £15 to entice consumers to give them a try; against the infinite choices from around the world between £8-£15 on the shelves.

Many producers quietly celebrate global warming and climate change as warmer temperatures help their grapes ripen sufficiently to make quality still wines. According to a new report by the World Weather Attrition Group, Britain will increasingly see monsoon-like rains over the next decade, as well as more frequent hail storms and even “mini tornadoes”. UK regions with the highest average temperatures, particularly those in southern and central England, are likely to see the worst storms. These cast an omen for a burgeoning industry about to enter its next critical growth phase. Suddenly, looking after the soil and vines is no longer enough when dealing with climate chaos. Big Data sharing should help collective resilience through mitigation and adaptation strategies. 

Does anyone know the role of AI in viticulture and winemaking in our brave new world of the unknown?

Great Books to Read About English Wine

Vines in a Cold Climate: The People Behind the English Wine Revolution by Henry Jeffreys

Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year 2024. When was the last time you read a page-turner on wine? This is it. Opinionated but witty. Thoroughly researched without being academic. It is like a friend who’s had too much to drink telling you who’s who and done what. 

The Vineyards of Britain: Cellar Door Adventures with the Best of Britain’s Wines by Ed Dallimore

How did Ed do it? Lost count of how many vineyards are actually featured in this compendium with stunning imagery, lucid and personable writing reflecting thorough research and his empathy with the characters behind the wine labels.

By Will Wong

will wong drinklusive mentee the three drinkers