8 Fine Wines From China you Need To Try

Have You Tried Wine From China?

Over here in the West, you might be forgiven for not having China top of mind when it comes to listing countries that produce fine wine - or any wine for that matter. As things stand, the Chinese wine output is still tiny, especially when you compare it to China’s famous spirit ‘Baijiu’ and the amount of international wine brands that are imported. Evidence has been found of grape fermentation in China and along the Silk Road dating back thousands of years before Christ, so it’s not exactly new. The modernised industry as we see it now however is only just starting to get going - and we couldn’t be more excited about it.

How to find Chinese wine in the UK

Of course, when a country’s output is so small, we tend to not be able to find much outside the country in question. Until now, that is. With the rise of wine companies championing producers from less obvious locations or smaller, more boutique producers that would never be looked at by the larger conglomerates, we’ve never had such good access to quality wines from around the globe. One such company that exists to do precisely this is Propeller. Located in Sherborne, Dorset, Propeller have set themselves up to help producers entering the UK market for the first time to jump the numerous hurdles they’ll inevitably face. At the same time, they assist with brand positioning and marketing and help get the wines into top merchants and wholesalers. It is through Propeller Wines that we were introduced to a fantastic producer based in Ningxia, China called Xige Estate. Tasting their wines was a real treat and - if we’re honest- a bit of a surprise. Here’s what you need to know about Xige Estate in China and what you should taste.

Wine from Ningxia, China

Ningxia is a very small, autonomous region located in north-central China with thousands of years of rich history. Today, despite its extreme climatic conditions and temperature swings, it has a growing reputation for premium winemaking, with some describing it as ‘The Bordeaux of China’ or ‘China’s Penfolds’. The first winery appeared here just over twenty years ago and now, the region boasts over a hundred wineries, with more licences being applied for all the time. Around 38,000ha of vines have already been planted, comprising at least sixty different varieties and this number is expected to grow exponentially over the next ten years thanks to substantial backing from the government and private investors. At the beginning, around fifteen years ago, winemakers were cautious and stuck to the famous Bordeaux grapes. It’s true that many of these are now flourishing, but some in the industry such as Xige have been keen to do things a little differently; to experiment with other grapes to get the very best out of the terroir here - and to great effect.

Xige Estate, Helan Mountain, Ningxia

Xige Estate was founded in 2017 and finished in 2019, though the wines belonging to the estate had already been in place for twenty years. The winery is the brainchild of investor and ex-Changyu winemaker Zhang Yanzhi and was founded with the aim to show that Chinese wine deserves a place on the world stage of not just fine wine, but wine that showcases its terroir to give it a real sense of place, even on a large scale. And it’s not just the world’s wine lovers that benefit; Ningxia was previously a relatively impoverished region that is now benefiting enormously from the growing wine industry. Xige Estate, for example, directly employs 300 people, with a team of 4 -700 more alone involved and employed in the upkeep of the vineyards, which are currently spread over 2000 hectares.

Wine style at Xige Estate

In terms of style, Xige Estate is placing a strong focus on more elegant, fresh and understated wines that work wonderfully with a wide range of international cuisines rather than uber-concentrated, jammy, fruit bombs. After trialling various grape varietals over their substantial vineyards, the team at Xige Estate have found that Chardonnay, Malbec and Cabernet Gernsicht, which is possibly an evolution of Carmenere, really shine in their Ningxia terroir. Experiments continue with Marselan, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Dunkelfelder, Chenin Blanc and Syrah. Having tasted the range, it’s clear to see that with Propeller’s help, Xige estate really could be the international face of Chinese wine.

Here are some delicious wines from the estate that will delight and surprise you and any guests you show them to. Go on, do a blind tasting. I wonder if they will work out where they are from!

Try these wines from Xige Estate:

Jade Dove White 2018

A blend of Italian Riesling and Ugni Blanc, this wine is rich, golden, peachy and aromatic in a different way than you might be used to. To us, this puts it up there on the winelovers’ terroir shelf as a must-try. A fabulous choice for food with sweeter spices, fish and poultry.

RRP: £22.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at: propeller.wine

Jade Dove Red, 2018

This red is made mostly with Cabernet Sauvignon and just a splash (5%) of Merlot. Intense, red and black fruit flavours are balanced by very subtle, French oak, silky tannins and a hint of smoky minerality.

RRP: £22.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at: propeller.wine, Baythorne Wines

Jade Dove Rosé, 2019

A vibrant, fruity blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Cabernet Gernischt, this pretty pink, which is made by the premium, saignée method, is fresh and elegant with notes of ripe strawberry, raspberry and cherry.

RRP: £22.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine

Xige N28, Chardonnay, 2019

This stunning Chardonnay evokes the elegance and freshness of a Chablis with the tropical, floral, melon and honey notes of a top end Argentinian Chardonnay and the structure of a great Burgundy, thanks to fermentation and ageing in oak. Creamy but refreshing with it, this is a great white to show what the terroir at Xige can do.

RRP: £27.95
Stockist: https://www.thewineseller.co.uk, https://www.cheerswinemerchants.co.uk, wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine

Xige N28, Malbec, 2019

Xige Estate were the first to spot Malbec’s potential in the Helan Mountain range and were the first to plant it commercially here. This Malbec brings all the concentrated, blueberry, cocoa and slatey mineral notes you’d want from a high altitude Malbec with proper, velvety soft tannins and a delicious umami note that gives it a real sense of place.

RRP: £24.95
Stockist: https://www.thewineseller.co.uk, https://www.cheerswinemerchants.co.uk, wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine

Xige N28, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019

Here we have a fine, well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon that could stand up to any classic, left-bank Bordeaux with its notes of slate and cedar, medicinal herbs and characteristic pop of cassis and warm spice. A fabulous wine that’s drinking now but will keep for at least five years - probably longer.

RRP: £24.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine

Xige N50, 2018

Another truly premium wine, the N50 is exceptional. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Gernischt taken from Xige Estate’s finest vineyard plots, this wine has achieved the highest critical acclaim of any Chinese wine so far, being described as ‘a masterclass in structure, restraint and elegance.’ We can only agree. It tastes fabulous now with its super-concentrated notes of blackcurrant leaf, baking spice, cedar and a slick, mineral backbone but will also go the distance when laid down, big time.

RRP: £29.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine

Jade Dove, Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt, 2018

At the top of the wine tree at Xige is this 100% Cabernet Gernischt, produced from vines that are 25-30 years-old, so are genuinely ‘old vines’ by Chinese standards. Here, the Cabernet Gernischt offers delicate, fine tannins and an intriguing nose of dried rose petals and Chinese herbs. So different from, say, a Chilean Carmenère to whom it’s meant to be related, this is a benchmark example of a Chinese version.

RRP: £37.95
Stockist:  wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine

See more about Xige Estate here and Propeller Wine here.

What is Baijiu and What Should I Try?

Have you ever asked yourself ‘what is the world’s most popular spirit?’ Is it Vodka? Whisky? Rum, even?

The answer is that it’s none of them. The world’s most popular spirit is in fact, Chinese Baijiu. With Chinese New Year upon us, here’s your comprehensive introduction to this mega spirit with 6000 years of history and 10 billion dollars worth of sales a year.

What type of alcohol is Baijiu?

Baijiu, sometimes known as Shaojiu, is a colourless grain spirit that’s massively popular in China. Most commonly, fermenting cooked Sorghum (a flowering grass plant) is chosen, but millet, barley and rice are also used and it varies a lot across the country.

‘Jiuqu’ is added too, with ‘Jiu’ referencing alcohol, and ‘qu’ is koji, which is a fungus that is also used in the production of sake and soy sauce. Just like most drinks, the choices made at this stage create distinct flavour characteristics, which brings us to the question…

What does Baijiu taste like?

Baijiu can be an acquired taste at first, particularly to a novice drinker. In its sense of texture and flavour complexity, it could be compared to whisky. As you’ll see below, styles vary, but overall, you might expect musky flavours with sweetness and over-ripe fruits. There can also be coffee and soy sauce flavouring though, so it’s difficult to pin down!

Most of the time, the white spirit falls into that 40-60% ABV range, though it’s traditionally enjoyed neat with food – particularly if it’s a premium bottle. Of course, tradition is tradition but in day-to-day life, it’s often mixed.

Baijiu can be roughly split into four styles, each using different ingredients, ageing vessels, and ageing duration. So…

What are the different styles of Baijiu and how do they taste?

Light Aroma: Light, elegant and subtly floral. Traditionally made in a stone vessel with sorghum. Hails from the north, around Beijing.

Strong Aroma: Fruity, tropical, aniseed, complex. Multiple grains but aged in mud pits. Hails largely from Sichuan province in the southwest.

Sauce Aroma: Umami, soy, bean. Mostly sorghum but with multiple fermentations in stone brick pits.

Rice Aroma: Sweeter and mellow. Hailing from the south and often the lowest grade.

Baijiu is a massive industry, so of course there are sub groups innovating with different aromas all the time. ‘Chi’ aroma can be infused with pork fat for example, as well as sesame aroma and medicine aroma. The good news if you like baijiu is that there’s so much to explore.

This variety is part of the reason Baijiu is so popular in China. It dates back thousands of years, there’s almost certainly a specific type that appeals to you, it’s claimed to have certain health benefits and it plays an important role in Chinese culture. Like Vodka in Eastern Europe and Rum in the Caribbean, spirits can become much more than just a drink.

How do you drink Baijiu?

A lot of people wonder if you should drink Baijiu cold and unlike many spirits in other parts of the world, ice isn’t always a go-to. It’s often served, as mentioned, neat and at room temperature or even slightly warm in very small glasses.

Usually, there’s food present or an occasion to celebrate. It’s a social drink and is often shotted, rather than sipped. But, with so much variation, you’ll find people drinking it in all kinds of different ways, so do whatever you like!

3 Baijius to Try

Ming River Sichaun Baijiu

This is a clear sorghum gain Baijiu from the oldest operating distillery in China – Luzhou Laojiao. Fermented with wheat yeast in earth pits, the 2 month old mash is then distilled in small batches in a traditional Chinese still for up to 2 years. Instantly on the nose, it’s very fruity with melon, mango and pineapple coming through, with a baked earth richness following. It’s super smooth and deceptively gentle with a clean but flavoursome feel. Enjoy it neat first but then experiment in cocktails (check out the ones below!)

Size: 700ml
ABV: 45%
Find here: £36

Fen Chiew 5-Year-Old Chu Yen Ching Baijiu

The vibrant golden green here is from bamboo-leaf, which is also what ‘Chu Yen Ching’ refers to. This Baijiu is a completely distinctive taste, with an instantaneous spicy tang making way for lemon, honey and citrus. It has a more medicinal profile though, with a crisp herby and peppery finish. It won’t be a guaranteed hit with everyone, but it's a diverse tasting experience that some will absolutely love.

Size: 500ml
ABV: 38%
Find here: £60

Fen Chiew Blue Flower Baijiu

The strongest Baijiu of the three, Fen Chiew’s Blue Flower arrives in style, with a gorgeous traditional design. It opens up to an intriguing herbal palate. Think rosemary, sage, saffron and umami notes. Lifting the liquid is tangy orange for an intense finish. Serve it neat!

Size: 500ml
ABV: 48%
Find here: £150

3 Baijiu Cocktails to Try

Baijiu Highball

This is one of the simpler Baijiu cocktails to pull together. The pineapple shines through, and the lime juice cuts through very pleasantly. Very clean and refreshing to sip on with plenty of subtle notes to keep you intrigued until the final drop.

Ingredients
60ml Baijiu (try Ming River)
Tonic (to the top)
Lime squeeze

Method
Just add your Baijiu first then pour tonic to the top and stir gently with fresh lime.

The Golden Empire

Baijiu’s intriguing use in mixology has been a big part of its newfound international popularity and this cocktail won a Fenjiu (Baijiu producer) cocktail competition a few years ago. It’s a golden, moreish concoction blending sherry, vermouth and Baijiu, created by Andrea Dionori of the Crazy Bear. Expect refreshment, sweetness and a cocktail unlike anything you’ve had before.

Ingredients
35ml Fenjiu Baijiu 10 year old.
10ml White Vermouth (preferred: Cocchi Americano)
7.5ml Palo Cortado sherry
10ml Homemade Palo Santo cordial (optional)

Method
Simply shake well with plenty of ice!

The Royal Rabbit

This is a lovely, sweeter Baijiu cocktail that might be ideal if neat Baijiu is a bit too much for you at first. With underlying tartness from the lemon and raspberry juice, it’s crisp and refreshing with the perfect amount of sweetness, really bringing out any fruity notes from your chosen Baijiu.

Ingredients
50ml Baijiu
40ml Raspberry juice
Top up with lemonade
Garnish with fresh raspberries

Method
Stir well until everything is thoroughly combined and finish with some ripe raspberries for the perfect flourish.

If you’re in the mood to explore iconic spirits synonymous with other countries, then check out our article on Tsikoudia, a Cretan Hidden Gem!