Image credit: Wines of Germany
Blue Nun oder Liebfraumilch? Nein Nein.
When did you last try a German white wine, and Riesling to be precise? The mind might go blank. Aren’t they all a bit too sweet and acidic, with too low alcohol? Or you could be old enough to miss or mock ‘Blue Nun’, a semi-sweet German white, the mass market export brand associated with Liebfraumilch, literally ‘beloved Lady’s milk’; referring to the Liebfrauenkirche (the Church of Our Lady) in Worms, Germany, near where the wine was originally produced.
Departing from the often innumerable German wine labels with Gothic script and long, complicated names, Blue Nun became an ironic icon of German wine for many who do not speak German or are less familiar with what Germany has to offer the world.
Anne Krebiehl, the only German Master of Wine (MW) living in the UK, reminded us of how recently the status of German wine had changed within Germany itself. “People forget the doldrums of German wine, especially from about 1985 to 1995. If you were cool in Germany then, you didn’t drink German wine,” she said. “But it has changed this century. It happened with dry Riesling (Trocken) first.
Winemakers in Germany have progressively steered away from the semi-sweet to sweet spectrum. There is now a wide range of well-made and balanced dry Rieslings and other whites that gain domestic and international recognition. However, that does not mean off-dry, semi-sweet or sweet wines are inferior. Far from that in fact; as the best grapes are often harvested late to retain their residual sugar. Riesling’s high natural acidity is perfect for balancing high levels of sweetness.
31 Days of German Riesling?
Image credit: Wines of Germany
The quality of German wines has improved immeasurably in the last two decades. To build on this momentum, Wines of Germany first launched the 31 Days of German Riesling campaign in 2012 (remember the London Olympics?) to raise awareness of Riesling.
Now for its 13th edition this July, there are over 100 events from in store tastings to virtual events and tasting menus across the UK. You can even play an interactive online game and find out more about your preferred style of Riesling here.
Research suggests it takes 30 days to form a new habit, so welcome to the 31 Days of (German) Riesling! Other countries and grapes are available, but why wouldn’t you want to drink outside your comfort zone?
The Riesling Grape
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A noble grape loved by the wine trade but often shunned by consumers, Riesling is probably one of the most misunderstood and underrated varietals.
Naturally aromatic with high acidity, the late-ripening Riesling does not like heat. Vine-growers therefore have many harvesting options to make light to full-bodied wines from bone-dry to off-dry, semi-sweet or the sublimely sweet. The specific fruit flavours in the wine vary with the degree of ripeness in the grapes at the time of harvest. Grapes that are just ripe produce wines with green apples and pear, citrus flavours of lime and lemon, and floral characteristics. With grapes that are extra-ripe, we get flavours of stone fruit such as peach and apricot, tropical fruit (mango and pineapple) and even dried fruit (dried apricots).
Riesling does not like blends or oak either. It mirrors terroir - latitude, the soil and micro climate; and cooperates less well with the winemaker’s intervention. With the right conditions, it develops a tension true to its pedigree.
No matter where in the world it is grown, the Riesling grape which retains acidity and builds up sugar and flavour slowly makes wines that can outlast those made from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This is true even of relatively inexpensive examples. Riesling develops more nuanced flavours as it ages. Some fine Rieslings could go on and on. Many years ago, Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson MW hosted a tasting in Frankfurt which demonstrated that a fine Mosel Riesling could outlast red Bordeaux. Some date back to the early 1970s and are still going strong if cellared carefully.
Deciphering the German Riesling label
Many modern German Rieslings sold on the UK market have simplified and adapted their former Gothic heritage to more contemporary designs. If you look at its front and back label, you are likely to see the following:
VDP with a dark eagle logo - that symbolises grapes from a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) which is further classified as either Qualitätswein - the wine must come from one of 13 ‘wine growing areas’ in Germany (see below) or Prädikatswein - a higher minimum level of sugar is required in the grapes that is needed for Qualitätswein.
There are six Prädikat categories. The most common of which are Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese, classified in increasing sugar levels in the grapes at the time of harvest. Though these wines carry some sweetness, they can also be made in a dry style. All clear or totally confused?
The sweeter the wine, the lower the alcohol and, in general, the longer the wine’s life.
Keeping things simple, Trocken (dry) is perhaps the most useful term to look out for if you prefer that style of whites. Klaus Peter Keller, a champion exponent of it, who put Rheinhessen on the map feels that 30 or more years’ ageing is no problem for the most lauded of Germany’s dry Rieslings, the Grosse Gewächse (“GGs” equivalent to the Grand Crus in Burgundy).
Where is Riesling grown in Germany?
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Germany has almost 60,000 vineyard acres of Riesling. It grows in every one of Germany’s 13 major wine regions, called Anbaugebiete. The most famous Anbaugebiete for high-quality German Riesling are Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen.
Mosel
The scenic Mosel Valley, named for the river which serpentines through it, is about as far north in Germany as Riesling could prosper; at least before climate change became an urgent issue. Vineyards in the narrow valley are on steep slopes of blue slate; some up to 80º elevation. The steeper the slope the better, as that gives vines “stadium seating” for best sun exposure as the river reflects light and heats up the slopes.
With its latitude, frequent cloud cover and rain, Mosel Rieslings have low to medium alcohol content with fruit leaning towards the least ripe profile - green apples, lemon and lime.
Rheingau
It’s a tiny region, making only 2% of Germany’s wine, but the vineyards all have southern facings with unimpeded sun exposure. Rheingau's slate is predominantly red which absorbs more water and heat from the sun than blue slate found in Mosel. That warmth is released to the vines at night.
As a result, Rheingau Rieslings tend to be riper, fuller, and more powerful than those from the Mosel. Their aromas and flavours reflect that with yellow stone fruit and even tropical notes.
Rheinhessen
No Anbaugebiet makes more wine than Rheinhessen. Compared to most of the neighbouring growing areas, Rheinhessen is broad and without slope with very large vineyards. Lying just across the river from Rheingau, the same range of hills protects it. And the flat terrain means it gets sun all day.
Over the past twenty years, Riesling’s share of total plantation has risen from about 10% to nearly 20%. It is now the most-planted variety there.
7 German Rieslings to whet your palate
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Whether you are an aficionado or simply curious about German Riesling, we have hand-picked seven German bone-dry to off-dry Rieslings from Mosel to Rheinhessen. They share some core similarities - fresh acidity and versatility with food, whilst differ from having a touch of sweetness to saline minerality. There is something for everyone.
Sainsbury’s Winemakers’ Selection Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen
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Part of Sainsbury’s new mid-strength range, this own-label medium-dry Riesling is quaffable at an incredible price. Green apples with a hint of petrol on the nose, it’s ideal to drink with Thai or Vietnamese cuisine and anything fiery with chilli.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 9%
Find here: £5.00 Sainsbury’s
Waitrose Blueprint Dry German Riesling 2023, Moselland, Mosel
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An easy-drinking and good value dry Riesling from Mosel. At 11% ABV, it is ideal for summer but serve it at around 10-12ºC or its acidity might impair your tasting experience. Goes well with poached chicken and spicy dishes.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £8.49 Selected Waitrose and Waitrose Cellar (online)
Peter & Ulrich Griebeler Dry Riesling 2022, Mosel
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Peter & Ulrich Griebeler are a small, family-run producer based in Germany’s Mosel region. Sourcing grapes from different villages, they are aged on the lees for a subtly rounded texture. With hints of petrol on the nose, it is very pale with racy acidity of grapefruit. A touch of minerality that works well with summer salad and seafood paella.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six, Majestic
The Society’s Exhibition Rheingau Riesling 2020, Hochheim am Main
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2023 Decanter World Wine Awards Bronze Medal. Based in Hochheim, Gunter Künstler, one of the Rheingau's top winemakers crafted this refined dry Riesling for The Wine Society (UK). Despite its lush tropical aromas of peach, white blossom and lemon curd, it is bone dry with a steely and long saline mineral finish. Very sensitive to temperature change in the glass, it’s best served between 10-12°C to maintain its fresh acidity. Richer than a Mosel Riesling, this would stand up well to spicy Asian dishes or even complement roast pork.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £14.50 The Wine Society
Zilliken Riesling Trocken 2022, Mosel
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Floral, clean cut dry German riesling from a ripe and sunny vintage. With citrus and a touch of apple, this has a steely and saline mineral finish. It has an underlying tension that needs time to unwind. In German, this is classified as a gutswein , which means estate wine. All the grapes come from the estate and from the various plots owned by Zilliken. Even so, ageing is done in traditional 1000-litre fuder barrels.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £15.50 The Wine Society
Fritz Ekkehard Huff Pettenthal Riesling Trocken 2021, Nierstein-Schwabsburg, Rheinhessen
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Schwabsburg lies a little inland from the Rhine, just behind Nierstein. The Huff family has been farming here since 1700. In 2010, Ekkehard Huff’s daughter Christine joined the family enterprise, and together with her New Zealand-born husband Jeremy, they are now part of the young ‘golden generation’ of winemakers who practise biodynamic viticulture.
No petrol or green apples aroma here. The winemakers are like an orchestral conductor who led the grapes and terroir symphony, where it is all finesse, balance with subtlety. Bone dry with a steely mineral finish. Think Chablis Premier Cru.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £22.00 Howard Ripley
Schloss Lieser Thomas Hagg Niederberg Helden Riesling Kabinett 2020, Mosel
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At up to 80º steep slopes with blue slate, the 110-year old ungrafted vines here in Niederberg Helden produce highly complex and premium Riesling with masculinity and structure.
Pronounced green apples on the nose, this exquisite Kabinett Riesling is off-dry but not sickly sweet on its own. A little lychee mid-palate with minerals. It really shows its best when paired with sweet and sour cuisine. Chilli? Bring that on. The restrained sweetness and low-alcohol makes it a far better partner than any dry whites or reds. Drink to 2032.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 8.5%
Find here: £17.17 Howard Ripley
Why German Riesling?
We hope any scepticism about German Riesling is amply dispelled. An off-dry or even medium sweet wine could work wonders with strong cheeses and fiery South or Southeast Asian dishes. The resulting lower alcohol is just perfect for summer.
When it comes to the drier styles, its racy acidity and steely texture stays true to provenance and terroir, rather than manipulation by winemakers for a certain commercial style. Above all, Riesling when stored properly will age not only gracefully, but possibly outlive you. How much do you like your heirs?
If you want to know even more about German Riesling:
The Wines of Germany by Anne Krebiehl MW; part of The Infinite Ideas Classic Wine Library (Académie du Vin Library)
Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards Wine Book 2020 Winner. Comprehensive and scholarly, yet accessible to any wine enthusiast or student. It is an invaluable reference guide providing a historical context of German winemaking areas, and the rise of Riesling as well as Spätburgunder in Germany.
By Will Wong
