Sunny Hodge: The Cynic's Guide to Wine

Photo Credit: Daniel Ogulewicz

We sat down with Sunny Hodge, founder and owner of multi-award winning bars Diogenes the Dog and Aspen and Meursault, DRINKLUSIVE mentor, and now author of The Cynic’s Guide to Wine, to learn more about his brand-new book.

What first got you into wine, and why 'The Cynic's Guide to Wine'?

I've been in hospitality for my entire professional life. Right around the time that I wanted to open my own spot - now Diogenes the Dog in Elephant & Castle - I was pretty confident with all things restaurant, except wine! It made no sense to me; and seemed like more storytelling over substance. In previous places I'd managed we could all sell the stuff, bottles sold for £4000 a pop, and it always seemed like we were regurgitating lines we'd learnt to sell the wines, but guests lapped it up.

Back then, it never made any technical sense, even after studying wine through traditional routes, so I decided to take the leap and open a wine bar whose concept was based around helping guests understand how wine works.

Being 'Cynical' in the truest sense of the word is about questioning the status Quo. This book in true Diogenes the Dog (the founder of Cynicism) style; questions our existing beliefs on how wine works, and utilises science to forge a path forwards.

Science isn't always a fun read, who is this book meant for?

I can vouch for that, I studied Mechanical Engineering at University, and boy, I don’t miss any of it.

The Cynic's Guide to Wine is a science of wine book aimed at foodies upwards. The science is broken down at each step along the way, tied in with some of my real life experiences in wine and life, and made applicable to utilise for wine and food decision making. It's the type of read that just makes sense, and similar to Chris van Tulleken’s book, Ultra Processed People - once you read it, you can't unread it!

There's also a lot of new scientific insights along the way, plus explanations of simple concepts that people take for granted in wine - like why do yeasts do what they do? Because of all the new info, it has a huge benefit for even the most expert of wine enthusiasts as well as novice wine lovers. 

Background Photo Credit: Daniel Ogulewicz

There's a lot of debunking of common wine myths in the book, how do readers know that your explanation is accurate?

In the spirit of Cynicism, what a brilliant question!

For so long in wine we've just listened to experts and assumed that what they are saying is correct. Wine is a huge topic, we have to trust those in charge right?

Well, with The Cynic's Guide to Wine I encourage you to question, the entire book is referenced to academic studies and research, it's all rooted in science and none of it my opinion. I ask questions along the way, and encourage readers to do the same. This book serves as a solid building block to learn and develop further into wine and food - backed by the latest academic studies across a range of different fields from soil science, microbiology, chemistry to neuroscience.

What sort of things does the book debunk?

Soil is a huge one which the book actually kicks off with. For so long we've marketed and spoken about wine and soil types and drawn up crude correlations to why wines taste the way that they do. Soils like clay and limestone are brandished on wine bottles, but what difference does this make? And how does this affect our wine? The book gets into the nitty gritty of this and reveals what in soil makes a difference, and what doesn't.

I'd also say that the final chapter is hugely revealing, it's all about how we perceive flavour neurologically and how much is subjective vs genetic bias. Hugely geeky but interesting stuff which changes the way we think about food and drink entirely. 

What's next?

The two bars are somewhat of a handful as is. I also do a fair bit of wine judging throughout the year which I enjoy hugely, so I've got a lot on my plate to keep me busy enough.

That said, I’m developing an online course in wine science, aptly named the 'Science of Wine Course'. I'd like to make it a qualification which could take a while to get approved. It may take a year or two to get there, but I will be posting updates on my socials.

You can pick up your very own copy of The Cynic’s Guide to Wine from the retailers below:

Amazon
Waterstones
Academie du Vin

The Cynic’s Guide to Wine book signing will take place at The Book Elephant in Elephant and Castle on April 5th between 2pm and 6pm!

B58 - English Fine Wine Whatever the Vintage

There has been an issue with a lot of English wine for a while now. Not with the sparkling wines, which overall have been of excellent quality for a long time, but with still wine. There are some producers that make quite good still wine in the UK, but it is expensive, and there is a lot of competition at the price range English still wine asks for. The main reason for the price is that the cost of production in England is very high, but the reason for the quality is a simple one, the climate. Unlike sparkling wine, which can use multi vintages, still wine is a vintage product, and our vintages vary greatly in England. There are purists out there, those who accept these vintage variations, who enjoy the terroir and climate aspects of wine and are willing to pay for it. However, the great majority of wine drinkers simply want a good wine at a reasonable price and how that wine is produced is of lesser importance.

This brings me onto a new winery in the New Forest, not that the location really matters.

Beaulieu 58 is a winery which is growing their vines in polytunnels. Their main business is a fruit farm, and they are very successful at growing fruit, giving us strawberries earlier in the season and asparagus before any of the other English growers. This expertise in bringing plants to ripeness more quickly benefits vines in England hugely.

The use of polytunnels also helps with two other aspects of growing vines in England. Mildew and the use of chemicals. They use their chemical sprayer, without chemicals, to simply aerate the polytunnel, moving the air around to prevent mildew. The lack of chemicals is facilitated by the tunnel and the material in which the vines are grown. Coir, the husks of coconuts are used for the first 80cm of depth. There is no need to use chemicals to guard against disease. They simply just irrigate, and use nutrients. The only reason they can’t call their wines organic is because coconut palms are not considered organic and therefore the coir used is not classified as organic.

There is a further benefit to growing the vines in a polytunnel in this fashion. The vines give good enough fruit after just one year to make a wine, and the main difference in consequent years is the yield.

All this sounds excellent, but the proof is in the pudding as one would say. I travelled down to the New Forest with a few other writers and an MW who is not involved in the project.

We tasted the very small number of wines they had in barrel, and there were some notable wines with great potential. Particularly a Bacchus orange wine which had been made with only 10% of the production in oak. It had tart, fresh fruit and peppery undertones, and one could see that by the time it will be in bottle, it should be very good. There was one other wine which was showing great potential, and it is a grape variety known for maturing well in hot climates, not England. Their Shiraz has lovely fruit, with touches of spice, and had only been in barrel for two and a half months.

They have some wines from the 2023 vintage in bottle and we tried them over a good lunch at Limewood House. The standout wines for me were a Gewurztraminer which had pronounced aromatics, a well-defined palate with lots of pears and white peach. There was also a B58 red, which is a blend of Shiraz, Merlot and 10% Cabernet, where they dehydrate the berries by 15% before vinification giving higher alcohol which results in purity of fruit, good tannic structure with typical green pepper flavours and pepperiness alongside rich fruit. The potential of these wines is clear to see.

So, one might ask how did this unusual method of producing wines come about?

Sandy Booth - Owner of Beaulieu Winery

It was one man’s obsession with growing things. Sandy Booth, a lifelong farmer, started B58 Winery as an offshoot of his established soft fruit business, New Forest Fruit. Drawing on his experience with tunnel-grown soft fruits, he applied similar methods to cultivate grape varieties—such as Shiraz and Gewürztraminer—that are not typically grown in the UK climate, making English wine production feasible.

Sandy grew up in St Andrews, Scotland, where he was introduced to farming through his father, who managed cattle on an Aberdeen Angus farm. In his twenties, he moved to Kent and developed practical skills in plant propagation, irrigation systems, and plant nutrition.

In 1997, Sandy joined tenant farmer John Boyd in Beaulieu as Soft Fruit Manager and helped introduce tunnel farming techniques in Southeast England. He contributed to growing a strawberry business from 50 to 2000 tons and, in 2008, formed a business partnership with Boyd. Over the past 16 years, he has overseen the production of approximately 4,500 tons of strawberries annually while also experimenting with crops like artichokes, apricots, melons, and asparagus. His approach to growing asparagus—using recycled coir from strawberry production along with specific bacteria and fungi—allows his operation to be the first in the UK to produce the crop each season.

Healthy roots grown in coir

More recent projects include converting misshapen strawberries into gluten-free, vegan fruit snacks and trialling Japanese strawberries to explore the possibility of year-round production. In 2022, Sandy began working with Swiss oenologist Guillaume Lagger, who crafted the winery's first wines and continues as the lead winemaker at Beaulieu 58 Wines.

The results are already good and priced between £15 and £35, they will be able to compete with other wines at similar price points. These wines might not have the terroir story of wines from England or further afield, but they are English, it is clear they will be superb indeed and above all, will consistently taste good year after year.

If you would like to try Beaulieu 58 wines, you can order a bottle from their website where they will also have listings of where to purchase as they become available.

 If you’d like to learn more about English wine and wine from all over the world please read our wine section.

Words by Colin Hampden-White 

GREECE is the Word: 12 Greek Wines You Need To Try

Photo credit: Wines of Greece

Unless you are in the Southern Hemisphere or anywhere near the Equator, summer feels like a distant memory. It’s easy to dream of the shimmering blue skies and seas; boats and whitewashed buildings with blue shutters - colours of the Greek flag. That bright light and gentle warmth just lifts your spirits.

Wine is sacred and philosophical to the Greeks. So much so that the ancient Greeks worshipped the god of wine, Dionysus (the Romans called him Bacchus), one of twelve major Greek deities and he even named his twins Staphylos (grape) and Oenopionas (winemaker).

“In Greece there is an old saying which, roughly translated, says, ‘if you have a piece of land where you can grow something, anything, grow it. If nothing can grow on your land, then plant a vineyard or olive grove.’ These two forms of agriculture have minimal nutrient requirements and excel in places that induce reasonable stresses. Necessity exiled Greek vineyards to the most interesting terroirs.”
~ Konstantinos Lazarakis MW: “The Wines of Greece”

Modern Greek winemaking and savvy international marketing is however, a relatively recent phenomenon after centuries of political turmoil and wars. Slowly and steadily, there has been a rebirth in Greek viticulture and winemaking; with the rise of inward investments and boutique wineries that aspire to compete with the best in the world, not just in Greece. Instead of bargain booze driven by volume, the focus has been shifting towards premium wines for fine dining. Necessity is the mother of reinvention. The 2010 financial crisis pushed Greek producers to collaborate at home and worldwide in promoting wine tourism and export drives.

Even if you had no plans for a winter break in sunny Greece, our brief Greek wine odyssey below takes you around this fascinating country from Macedonia in the north, through Central Greece and the huge Peloponnese peninsula to island hopping between Evia, Crete, Santorini and even Samos close to the Turkish coast in the east. With each region, we explore the subtle and critical differences between their micro-climate and terroir. Through the wines listed, we go behind their labels to explore the history of the wineries and the visions of their winemakers.

Although international grapes such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are widely planted, Greece boasts over 300 indigenous grape varieties that are enjoying a renaissance with the wine trade and consumers alike. So sit back and enjoy as we explore native Greek grapes from Assyrtiko to Xinomavro and beyond!

MACEDONIA

Photo credit: Wines of Greece

The northern part of Greece is graced with magnificent mountains like the snow-capped Olympus, which Homer described in the ‘Odyssey’ as basking in ‘pure upper air’. Besides thick forests with deep gorges and cascading waterfalls, you will also find tranquil lakes. Go slow and enjoy random encounters.

Place: Naoussa
An hour’s drive west of the city Thessaloniki between the Pindus Mountains and the Macedonian Plains lies Naoussa, nicknamed the Napa Valley of Greece. Full-bodied red wine production dominates here and the most important grape is the Big Red of Greece: Xinomavro - which literally means ‘tart black’ for its tang and dark colour. Its tannic structure is best compared with Barolo and Nebbiolo from Piedmont in Italy; but styles are changing.

Wine: Thymiopoulos Xinomavro 2021, Naoussa

Photo credit Will Wong

Apostolos Thymiopoulos has become the ambassador for Greece’s new wines and winemakers. Through his transformation of Xinomavro, Thymiopoulos has propelled the hitherto relatively obscure region of Naoussa and its formerly unloved grape variety to success in global markets.

After studying oenology at university, he opened a wine shop in Thessaloniki that gave him access to other wines from Greece and beyond. Following the death of his father and brother in quick succession, Thymiopoulos had to take over the family winery. It lies in the foothills of the scenic Mount Vermio, outside his home village of Trilofos - close to Aristotle’s school in Mieza, where the philosopher is said to have taught Alexander the Great.

Practising organic and biodynamic farming, key problems in the vineyard are wild boars, greedy birds and, very occasionally, locusts. He was the first in his family to bottle the wine from their grapes; instead of selling them on. Honing his craft through respecting the terroir, and travelling widely, Thymiopoulos has devised a style of Xinomavro that appeals to drinkers who prefer their reds softer and accessible at a young age such as the above.

Despite its pale ruby appearance, this red is full of surprises. With a raspberry nose, it is light and totally quaffable with high acidity like Sangiovese (Chianti), making it versatile with tomato-based dishes, roast chicken or pork. It has a very delicate structure with silky tannins, making it the perfect introduction to Xinomavro and Greek reds.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £15.99 or £13.99 Mix Six, Majestic

Place: Pella
A fertile plain in the northwest of Thessaloniki, most vineyards are located on the slopes of the surrounding mountains.

Wine: Ktima Ligas IGP Pella "Assyrtiko Barrique” 2020

Photo credit: Will Wong

Following his oenology degree in Montpelier, Thomas Ligas gained considerable experience with Tsantali and the Naoussa Co-op before setting up his own winery in 1985. Later, his children Melisanthi and Jason (a vocal advocate of natural wines) became involved.

Thomas together with his daughter Meli, are constantly experimenting with new techniques based on mild natural vinification. Their philosophy can be summarised as follows: permaculture, zero interventions in wine, no sulphites or commercial yeasts. In their experiments of fermenting different wines in barrels, Thomas tasted three whites, and began comparing the characters of the wines to famous women in Greek culture. And the concept was born…this label features Maria Callas, a famous soprano from Greece who became a global diva. Assyrtiko is often associated with Santorini in the south, but has been wonderfully developed in the North.

Deep gold in the glass that looks nothing like the pale Assyrtiko you may have tried. Its nose is oxidative like an Amontillado sherry. Very intense and rounded on the palate with a long finish. Its minerality is subdued without the racy acidity of our Santorini Assyrtiko below. Serve between 10-12°C as a gastro wine to be sipped slowly. When it warms up, a sweetness emerges. Pairs well with Paprika Pork or Hungarian Goulash and fresh greens. Roast chicken or BBQ fish with hot sauce would work wonders.

This Assyrtiko Barrique is fermented with indigenous yeasts and matures in old, large, oak barrels for 8-12 months. It is bottled unfiltered with a strictly limited edition of just 2000 bottles.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £45 Dynamic Vines

THESSALY

Easily the largest single fertile plain in Greece south of Macedonia, grain and cotton plantations have been the bedrock even before the Ottoman Empire sought to control and exploit this district. Vineyards tend to be on the periphery and up the mountain slopes.

Place: Tyrnavos

Besides high-yielding vines to supply the table wine trade, Tyrnavos is renowned for its Tsipouro, used in the production of grape distillates.

Wine: Ktima Zafeirakis Malagousia 2023

Photo Credit: Will Wong

Italian-trained Christos Zafeirakis is fourth-generation of this vine-growing family in the Tyrnavos region for over a century; but the first to establish a commercial winery in 2005. Since then, his brand has seen a meteoric rise to the upper echelons of Greek wines.

Certified organic, this revitalised aromatic grape is fermented with indigenous yeasts in large oak barrels. Lush citrus and tropical fruits on the nose; but steely and full-bodied with high acidity when you sip. There is a waxy texture with intense salinity and a flinty long finish. Pair with seafood. Often drunk young and fresh, great Malagousia develop in complexity even after a decade in the bottle.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £14.99 Waitrose Cellar

Place: Karditsa

Further southwest inland, more than half of Karditsa is on high mountain terrain. Unlike many other parts of Greece, plenty of small rivers and creeks flow down north-facing slopes.

Wine: Monsieur Nicholas Winery Moi, Je M’en Fous! Limnionas Dry Red

Photo credit: Will Wong

The very first quote above is on the back label. Giorgos Karamitros established his venture in 2000, breathing new life into the Messenikolas Protected Designation of Origin (PDO).

Limniona might be Greece’s equivalent of the Spanish variety Mencia. With its fruit-forward aroma and dense colour, high levels of rich but not astringent tannins, Limniona is fast becoming a triumph for indigenous Greek varietals. Incidentally, it was Christos Zafeirakis who started planting this forgotten and rediscovered grape in 2000.

The Limnionas variety grows in the foothills of the Agrafa Mountains in high-altitude vineyards. It gives a lower yield per hectare, but is enriched by the microclimate created in the region by Lake Plastiras.

A fresh wine with a unique and slightly sweet but dynamic flavour, rich in aromas, with a bright red colour. Aromas of mulberries, wild raspberry, strawberry and flowers with a hint of pepper create a wine that is best consumed fresh, at its most vigorous. Ideally paired with red meat or poultry dishes with spicy red sauces.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £22.30 Grecian Artisan Wines

CENTRAL GREECE

Photo credit: Wines of Greece

As the country’s largest region, it is known as Sterea Ellada which means ‘solid’ Greece. Attica is also the most populous prefecture, with the capital Athens on its southeastern tip. In Meteora northwest of Athens, you will be awed by some of the most revered monasteries such as the Moni Megalou Meteourou perched atop the highest rock since 1340.

Place: Viotia

Just north of Attica, the climate here can be as dry but significantly cooler up high altitudes. At the Helicon Mountain in Boeotia almost halfway between the ancient site of Delphi and Athens lies a Kontoura white vineyard. This indigenous Greek white grape (a clone of Savatiano) is only found in the 9 Muses Valley of the Ascre region.

It was replanted in 1962 by his grandfather Spyros and great-grandfather Dimitrios on the south-east slopes of up to 550m above sea level. Today, current owner and former pharmacist turned winemaker Panos Samartzis carries on the family tradition in experimenting with the two signature Muses Valley grapes - Kontoura white and the black Mouhtaro. These are only found here in Greece and nowhere else in the world.

Wine: Samartzis 'Dío Potámia' (Two Rivers) Kontoura, Barrique, Thiva 2020

Photo credit: Will Wong

Limited production of 2000 bottles a year, this premium Kontoura was aged in new French oak barrels for 4-6 months, followed by 6-8 months in bottle before release. Only the finest vintages are produced and this is probably one of the best expressions of Savatiano in Greece.

Its nose is reminiscent of a refined German Riesling without the residual sugar or green apple undertones. Mineral and saline with restrained intensity and a herbal long finish. A very versatile gastro wine on par with the finest Chardonnay. One of a kind. A true gift from the Muses Valley to the world.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £21.50 Grecian Artisan Wines

Wine: Samartzis Mouhtaro Grand Reserve 2021

Photo Credit: Will Wong

Unique to the Muses Valley, the Mouhtaro grape has aromatic intense black fruit with fresh acidity and spice. Handcrafted and maturated in French oak barrels for 12 months and 12 months in bottles with minimal sulphites this wine has violet with herbal notes. Its very silky tannins make this limited edition unfiltered wine (only 3000 bottles produced) so drinkable now. Decanting would reveal its changing flavours with airing. You can even double decant before sealing the remaining wine for another night. It could evolve into something different from the first impression. More liquorish after 5-7 years if you have the patience. Pairs perfectly with red meat and hearty roast vegetables or winter stews.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Find here: £49.50 or £133.66 for a case of 3 Grecian Artisan Wines

Place: Evia

East to Central Greece lies this second largest island to Crete, where you could explore the famous four mountainous Sporades (which means scattered ones). Dense vegetation surrounded by azure seas morph into small vineyards, hilltop monasteries and sky-reaching peaks.

Wine: Vriniotis Winery Gialtra Retsina NV

Photo credit: Will Wong

The family owned winery and vineyard are located in Gialtra, a small village in northern Evia, 14 km from Aidipsos. Konstantinos Vriniotis, a soft-spoken man, has practically put Evia onto the map of quality Greek wine.

For over twenty-four centuries, Aleppo pine resin has been added to base wines in maintaining freshness and stability. Thus, retsina became the national wine of Greece with some inferior ones giving Greek wine a bad name. Not any more.

Voted as one of the 50 Great Greek Wines in 2023, this Retsina infused Roditis does not resemble retsina as you might recall or expect. Grown on volcanic soil, it has herbaceous aromas of coniferous forest and mastic trees. The palate is dry with balanced acidity and salinity, given the vineyard’s proximity to the Aegean Sea. Pairs well with moussaka and steamed green beans. Try with fennel-based lamb dishes. Raw oysters would be the perfect dance partner.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.6%
Find here: £18.90 Grecian Artisan Wine

PELOPONNESE

Photo credit: Wines of Greece

With its breathtaking array of landscapes, villages and ruins, this is home to Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games. Two of Greece’s most memorable towns grace its shores: Venetian-style Nafplio and romantic Monemvasia.

Place: Nemea

The landscape here is reminiscent of Tuscany in Italy. Its climate and soil favours the great black Greek grape Agiorgitiko to thrive and produce a wide range of excellent reds and rosés.

Every September since 2004, the Great Days of Nemea wine festival invites the world to this key wine producing region of 17 villages, when wineries open for tours, tastings, food pairing seminars, concerts and other wine-related events. The Nemea wine trail with over 9800 acres of wineries and vineyards is well worth exploring.

Wine: Ktima Driopi Reserve Agiorgitiko 2018

Photo Credit: Will Wong

The winemaker Yiannis Tselepos, with 30 years of experience in the Peloponnese showcases the Agiorgitiko variety for his red wines; amongst the best in PDO Nemea.

Best decanted at least an hour ahead of serving, this complex wine has red fruit aromas, eucalyptus and herbaceous notes. Medium-bodied with silky ripe tannins that work a treat with steak or hearty winter stews. It can be cellared for 5-10 years.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Find here: £25.50 Cava Spiliadis

CRETE

Photo credit: Wines of Greece

Take time to explore the sheer variety and beauty of its mountain villages on the largest Greek island, each with their own cuisine and culture. Follow a gourmet trail with distinctive herbs, cheeses and honey.

Crete accounts for 20% of all Greek wine production. Almost in the middle of this vast island’s north coast is Iraklio Wine Country with a dozen wineries producing some 70% of Crete’s wines, with most clustering around Arhanes, Peza and Dafnes. The mountains that separate the north from the south provide cooling effects on the vineyards.

Wine: Lyrarakis Estate Orange Wine 2023

Photo credit: Will Wong

Brothers Manolis and Sotiris Lyrarakis first established the winery on the island of Crete in 1966. Today, the historic and premium winery is run by second-generation winemakers, supported by an extended family of skilled professionals.

No oranges are used or harmed here. With skin contact of 50:50 Assyrtiko and Vidiano blend, Spanish winemaker Myriam Ambuzer who has been with Lyrarakis for over 20 years created a rather magical and easy drinking gastro wine that does not pretend to be hip or funky. No oak but five months in concrete tanks gives this little gem a kumquat nose with structured tannins. Its fresh and crisp finish matches scrumptiously with Parmagiano and Gruyère baked spaghetti squash. A treat with roasted pumpkin seeds.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six Majestic

Wine: Lyrarakis Estate Liatiko 2023

You may not have tried Liatiko, a native grape from Crete. Think Beaujolais (Gamay) or Pinot Noir. It has a vibrant nose with red cherries. The high acidity with soft but structured tannins makes it a great gastro wine with tomato-based pasta and pizza. Roast chicken or pork would love it too.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six Majestic

SANTORINI

Photo Credit: Wines of Greece

Now the cruise ship day-trippers are gone till next summer, this is the best time to see this picturesque island in a new light. People travel from all over the world to be here, and even applaud the sunset. Blessed with a dry volcanic microclimate, the vines in Santorini are also Europe’s oldest, impervious to the phylloxera bug that wiped out most of Europe’s vines in the late 19th century.

Water is scarce with almost zero rainfall during the summer. Here, you see grapes grown close to the ground, in a kouloura (basket nest) to retain moisture and protect the grapes from fierce winds, which in turn inhibit the spread of fungal diseases. This form of viticulture is however very labour intensive and time-consuming.

Although the famous Assyrtiko grape is grown across the Cyclades, Santorini is mostly associated with this noble native varietal with relatively low yields, making its wines sought after worldwide with prices to match.

Wine: Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko 2022

Photo credit: Will Wong

Located in the plain of Oia, the winery was founded in 1991 by former mathematician who became a world-class producer. Paris Sigalas is hailed as a visionary for the meteoric rise of Santorini wines to international stardom.

Pale lemon in the glass, think Chablis Grand Cru from 60 year-old vines. Bracing acidity with high minerality makes this fine wine a perfect companion with raw oysters, seafood and white fish. The simpler the dish, the better. It is still youthful and would benefit from 3-5 years of cellaring. The 2022 vintage of Assyrtiko from Santorini is more successful than 2023 or 2024. So get some and keep if you can find any.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Find here: £32.38 Decántalo

SAMOS

Photo credit: Wines of Greece

Wander through woods and swim under waterfalls here. The island’s capital Vathy (also called Samos) is blessed with a deep bay, and its waterfront lined with bars, cafes and restaurants. Opposite the ferry quay lies one of Samos’ best vintners, the Museum of Samos Wines offering winery tours and tastings.

On our last stop, we savour the nectar consumed by the Olympian gods made from the naturally sweet Samian Muscat grape. It was celebrated by Lord Byron and included in the rations of Greek fighters during the War of Independence.

Wine: Samos Nectar 2016

Photo credit: Will Wong

Made with overripe, sun-dried white small-berried Muscat grapes, it ages for 6 years in oak barrels. Deep amber in colour, it is lush with beautiful orange hints, and a nose of raisins, dried fruits, honey and dried nuts. Balanced acidity with toffee, raisins, walnuts, mature oranges, and cloves. Richer than most Sauternes with exceptional value. Perfect with Christmas Pudding, or strong cheeses such as Stilton. Serve at 12-14ºC.

Size: 500ml
ABV: 14%
Find here: £23.50 Yorkshire Vintners

Before we go …

We hope the above twelve very different styles of Greek wines offer you a glimpse into the wide range of remarkable quality artisan produce, from this ancient country of proud and passionate people. There is no better way to remember, or reacquaint with the Hellenic hinterland and isles.

Do the wines remind you of an unforgettable holiday, where you fell in love, proposed or even spent your honeymoon? Some might even transport you to a realm and time you are yet to discover. Yamas!

“For the Greeks, the worst thing in the world is to be alone, so someone always comes to talk to me, to ask me or tell me something … They invite me to their homes, to panegyris, even to baptisms. I have never encountered such hospitality. I am a total stranger, but they treat me like a long-lost friend.”

~ Victoria Hislop: “Cartes Postales from Greece”

Further Reading

The Wines of Greece by Konstantinos Lazarakis MW is comprehensive and authoritative resource if you want to know much more. It has a scholarly feel but is accessible to wine enthusiasts, and indispensable to wine geeks and MW candidates alike.

By Will Wong

To see more of Will’s articles, make sure you click here!

Love in a Glass: Valentine's Day Pairings with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

Valentine’s Day is the perfect excuse to indulge in a romantic dinner, and what better way to elevate the evening than with a bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a thoughtfully paired menu? With its crisp acidity, vibrant flavours, and versatile character, this iconic wine transforms any dish into a celebration of love. Lucky for you, we’ve teamed up with our friends at Squealing Pig to craft the ultimate Valentine’s Day experience. Whether you’re planning a cozy dinner for two or a lively gathering of friends, these pairings promise a night filled with love, laughter, and effortless elegance.

What is Sauvignon Blanc Like?

Sauvignon Blanc is beloved for its fresh, zesty personality. Originally from France, this varietal has taken the world by storm with its bright citrus notes and herbal undertones. Its light body and mouthwatering acidity make it a refreshing and approachable choice, whether you’re sipping it solo or serving it alongside a carefully curated Valentine’s Day meal. And with vineyards flourishing in countries such as Chile, South Africa, the USA, and New Zealand, there’s no shortage of excellent options to explore for your special evening.

What does New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc Taste Like?

New Zealand has set the gold standard for Sauvignon Blanc thanks to its unique growing conditions. The country’s cool climate brings a distinctive “green” freshness—think crisp bell peppers and aromatic herbs—while long sunny days develop tropical fruit flavours like passionfruit, pineapple, and melon. This perfect balance of herbal finesse and tropical vibrancy has made New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc a favourite among wine enthusiasts worldwide. Its lively, romantic notes make it the perfect choice for toasting love and togetherness on Valentine’s Day.

What Is Squealing Pig Wine?

One notable producer of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is Treasury Wine Estates’ Squealing Pig. With a taste for travel and adventure it is known for its cracking wines, which are packed full of flavour and character and can be paired brilliantly with informal easy-going food. Squealing Pig’s Sauvignon Blanc, or ‘Savvy B’, stands out for both its fun and playful pig branding and its vibrant tropical fruit flavours—think pineapple and passionfruit— perfectly interwoven with citrus zest and a touch of herbaceousness.

What we really love about Squealing Pig is its ability to balance serious winemaking expertise with a fun, approachable image, ensuring that every bottle brings joy, mischief and energy to the table. Don’t just take our word for it though, their multi-award-winning New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has been recognized in national and international competitions alike! Fancy trying it for yourself? Click one of the supermarket links below!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: ASDA £9.24, Sainsbury’s £10.25, Morrisons £10.75

Perfect Pairings: Food and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

With its lively profile and balanced palate, Squealing Pig Sauvignon Blanc is a dream for food pairings. Here are a few enchanting combinations to make your Valentine’s Day menu unforgettable.

Seafood Pairing Suggestions

Sauvignon Blanc and seafood are a match made in culinary heaven. Each dish highlights the wine’s vibrant character, creating a sensory experience as captivating as a love story.

Oysters with Passionfruit Mignonette 
Few things embody romance like oysters. Topped with a tangy passionfruit mignonette, they become a tantalizing opening act. The wine’s vibrant notes accentuate the oysters’ briny sweetness, while its tropical undertones harmonize beautifully with the passionfruit. It’s an invitation to let your evening unfold deliciously.
Try this recipe

Heart-Shaped Salmon Tartare 
Take elegance to heart with salmon tartare moulded into a charming shape. The dish’s delicate flavours are elevated by the wine’s green notes, while its zest adds a lively twist to the creamy texture. It’s a playful yet polished way to show your affection.
Try this recipe

Seared Scallops with Lemon Butter Sauce 
Golden, buttery scallops meet their match in this Sauvignon Blanc. The wine’s zesty vibrancy cuts through the richness, while its fresh nuances mirror the scallops’ natural sweetness. Every bite feels like a little indulgence, perfect for a night that’s all about savouring the moment.
Try this recipe

Cheese Pairing Suggestions

Wine and cheese are the ultimate love story, and Squealing Pig’s Sauvignon Blanc plays its part beautifully. Its vivacious character works seamlessly with creamy cheeses and adds that extra something to every bite. Here are some creative matches that will charm your taste buds.

Brie en Croûte with Fig Jam 
Picture this: warm, golden puff pastry encasing gooey brie, topped with a lusciously sweet fig jam. As you take a bite, the wine cuts through the richness, with its fresh undertones playfully contrasting the jam’s caramel-like depth. This pairing is an invitation to indulge in life’s little luxuries—and who could say no to that?
Try this recipe

Goat Cheese Truffles with Herbs 
These creamy little bites are as delightful as a bouquet of fresh herbs. The goat cheese, soft and tangy, works harmoniously with the wine’s zestier side, while the herbs bring a playful echo of the Sauvignon Blanc’s vibrant energy. Each mouthful feels like an exciting dance of flavours on your palate.
Try this recipe

Lemon Ricotta Crostini with Honey 
Imagine a cloud of whipped ricotta kissed by lemon and drizzled with golden honey atop a crisp crostini. This pairing is a textural and flavour-filled delight. The wine lifts the lemon’s brightness to the forefront, while its subtle fruit notes meld lovingly with the honey’s sweet caress. It’s as close as a food and wine pairing gets to poetry.
Try this recipe

Squealing Pig’s New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will bring the joy and fun to your Valentine’s celebrations. Whether your indulging in seafood, savouring cream cheeses, or simply enjoying the wine on its own, it’s the perfect companion for an evening of love, connection and heartfelt memories. So, set the table, pour a glass, and a toast to a night you’ll always remember. Cheers!

To find out more about Squealing Pig, why not visit their website or check them out on Instagram!

Harrison Ford Becomes the Face of Glenmorangie

In a series of twelve episodic films directed by actor and film-maker Joel Edgerton, iconic movie legend Harrison Ford takes us on a behind the scenes journey around Scotland to the historic Glenmorangie distillery in Tain where Glenmorangie has been produced for over 180 years.

The series called ‘Once upon a time in Scotland’, clearly shows that Harrison has a passion for whisky, each episode being a great advert for Scotch Whisky in general, not just for Glenmorangie. Using his trademark wry humour and sense of adventure, Ford along with the Glenmorangie distillery team work together to give a real sense of the people and places behind Glenmorangie whisky. Being an unscripted series, each episode is packed full of real conversations and Ford’s soft spot for Glenmorangie and passion for the project clearly shine through in what is an entertaining 12 part series.

The idea for the episodic films was to go beyond the previous campaign Delicious and Wonderful, which was to introduce drinkers to whisky and Glenmorangie in particular, by sharing a little more of the brands heritage and history. It shows Ford getting to grips with the nuances of Scottish pronunciation and kilt etiquette, and bonding with locals over a dram of single malt. There is a feel of a real Scottish experience from a newcomer’s point of view. Harrison Ford said of the experience “I loved working with the team at the Distillery — they were all great. The whole process of filming was full of unanticipated joys: little unexpected moments. It’s a tribute to Glenmorangie’s sensibilities that they let us be less than totally serious. I think what Joel has produced has a certain charm to it, because it’s unpretentious and just amusing.”

Glenmorangie’s flagship whiskies, Glenmorangie Original 12 Years old and Glenmorangie Infinita 18 Years Old also take centre stage in the episodes. Beyond the film, there is no change to the whiskies Glenmorangie is producing, for now the core range will stay the same and as the packaging has only recently been overhaled, there is no change there either. So, Glenmorangie drinkers can enjoy their dram just as they have done but now in the knowledge that they are sharing their love for the brand with a true global icon!

Once Upon a Time in Scotland will roll out globally from 28 January 2025 spanning online video, connected TV and social media. Six full-length episodes and an array of behind the-scenes content will initially be available to view on glenmorangie.com, with the rest released throughout 2025.

The Argument for Aber Falls

Distilling in Wales, like Scotland, has been around for hundreds of years. Although, unlike Scotland, it died out at the beginning of the 20th Century when the last notable distillery, built by R.J. Lloyd Price in 1887 at Frongoch, was closed in 2010. Historically Welsh whisky was made in the same way as Scotch using a double distillation method rather than the Irish method of triple distillation. The style of whisky these days, however, is quite different with single, double and triple distillation methods used.

In the new world of whisky making, Welsh whisky isn’t that new. Penderyn distillery, which uses a Faraday still with a single distillation method, was built in 2000 and will celebrate its 25th birthday this year. The Aber Falls distillery in Abergwyngregyn, Gwynedd, started production of it’s triple distilled whisky in 2017 and released its first whisky in 2021. There are also much newer distilleries such as, In The Welsh Wind and Coles distilleries built after the Covid-19 pandemic, and Swansea Copperworks which opened in 2023.

With the number of distilleries in Wales growing, the distilleries grouped together to try and gain a geographical indication (GI). This is a legal right that protects the name of a product that is linked to a specific geographical area, and following in the footsteps of Scotch whisky, which has had a GI for many years, Welsh whisky was granted their own in 2024. English whisky has applied for one, but it has not been granted yet.

With investment in Welsh whisky distilling increasing and having obtained a GI, Welsh whisky is naturally growing in popularity. Arguably, Aber Falls, which is set on the edge of Snowdonia in a stunning location next to the sea, has become the better known of the Welsh distilleries. Being only 90 minutes from Liverpool and 2 ½ hours from Birmingham, it is easier to visit than its Scottish counterparts. The distillery was built by Halewood Artisanal Spirits, which have a strong history of distilling all types of spirits at their distilleries in Edinburgh and Blackpool, but it is whisky that they are most known for.

Aber Falls is stocked by most specialist whisky retailers and is also readily available on Amazon and in Tesco supermarkets. It offers customers a high-quality, smooth triple distilled whisky at a very affordable price. Maturing well in a mixture of casks including ex bourbon, ex sherry and ex red wine casks, it is bottled at a relatively young age and yet still gives a rich smooth whisky. With a bottle of Aber Falls costing under £25, it would be easy to think that the quality of the whisky falls short of other more expensive single malt whiskies but this is far from the truth. Aber Falls is frequently ranked as better than many of its competitors and this was borne out by its winning a gold medal at the International Spirits Challenge in 2024.

Now, although one may not consider collecting Aber Falls bottles, their casks might well be worth thinking about. Aber Falls sell new casks directly to customers at a reasonable price, but for a bargain, at the moment Cask Trade have a sale on Aber Falls casks which are about to turn three years old this year. Cask ownership interest can be registered here.

For those who want to get their hands on a bottle to try first, you can find more information below:

Size: 700ml
ABV: 40%
Find here: £24.75

Inclusivity in Wine: Hallgarten & Novum Wines to Run Free WSET Level 2 Course

Listen up all you in the hospitality trade as Hallgarten & Novum Wines is running a WSET Level 2 course free of charge from February 2025!

Much like The Three Drinkers with our DRINKLUSIVE mentorship, Hallgarten & Novum Wines aims to improve equity, diversity and inclusivity within the wine trade. As a result, the course will open to those from a diverse background, including but not limited to, disability, ethnicity, neurodiversity, gender and sexuality.

If you have a passion and/or interest in wine, a basic level of knowledge of wine, and are competent in both written and spoken English, then fill in this registration form, complete the knowledge check within it and return everything to editeam@hnwines.co.uk by Monday the 16th of December.

If this isn’t for you, but you know someone that it would be perfect for, please share the link!

Course details:

Dates:
Monday 3rd February 2025
Monday 10th February 2025
Monday 17th February 2025

Time:
09.00 - 17.00

Place
Wembley Stadium, Wembley, London HA9 0WS

Course Places Available:
12

From all of us at Team 3D, GOOD LUCK!

Beyond The Sweet: Exploring The Bold World of Savoury Spirits

In cocktails, sweetness can often take centre stage, but there’s a new flavour frontier among mixologists and spirit enthusiasts shaking up the bar scene: savoury spirits. These characterful and complex flavours offer a new dimension to the drinking experience for those who crave depth over sugar - and there’s definitely a growing trend for savoury offerings. From herbaceous and coastal gins to earthy vodkas to peppery tequilas, smoky mezcals and peated whiskies, savoury options redefine what it means to enjoy a well-crafted, spirited drink. 

No ingredients are off the table to bridge the gap between the bar and the kitchen, and there’s much to savour; think cooking spices, earthy root veg, olives, garden herbs, foraged seaweeds, warming chilli peppers, roasted agave and smoky peat. Producers can work with almost anything that adds flavour to a spirit as long as it's approved for human consumption. 

‘Botanicals’ although not a legally defined word in spirit production, is an overarching term for any part of a plant used to flavour a spirit such as fruit, leaves, roots, barks or seeds. Animal flavourings can also be used in production (eg pechuga mezcal as touched on below) but these are less common.

If you’re ready for new adventures in flavour, check out these are nine savoury spirits below!

Portobello Road No.171 Savoury Gin (London, UK)

Let’s begin with herbaceous botanicals and a Mediterranean-inspired gin produced with restaurateurs and foodies in mind. Portobello Road created this stand-out product to prove that gin doesn’t need to hide behind a floral or fruity identity to be popular. It’s a vibrant juniper-led gin made with a supportive blend that includes Calabrian bergamot peel, rosemary, basil, green olive and a pinch of Mediterranean sea salt to masterfully bring delicious notes of citrus, herb and delicate spice to the palate. Pair this savoury gin with Mediterranean or Mallorcan tonic for a refreshing gin and tonic and garnish it with a sprig of fresh rosemary. Particularly loved by Martini lovers, this also makes a splendid Dirty Martini or Gibson by adding dry vermouth, olive, brine or onion respectively. Once you’ve poured your drink, settle in for a cosy movie night with a Richard Curtis romcom set in Portobello such as Notting Hill or Love Actually. The absolutely perfect gin bottle, standing in front of a gin lover, asking them to love her.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 42%
Find here: £37.94

Isle of Wight Distillery Mermaid Gin (IOW, UK)

Leaving London, if sea air inspires you, you may already know about rock samphire - a plant that clings precariously to sea cliffs all around the British Isles. The people who make Mermaid Gin on the Isle of Wight hand-pick this botanical from chalk cliffs where it’s known locally as ‘Mermaid’s Kiss’, hence the gin’s name. In Shakespeare’s King Lear, the harvesting of Samphire was described as ‘a dreadful trade’. When Edgar tries to convince the blinded Gloucester that he’s standing on a clifftop at Dover, he describes the scene to him, explaining that “halfway down hangs one who gathers samphire - a dreadful trade - methinks he seems no bigger than his head.” A risky business to harvest, rock samphire (also known as sea fennel) stands out in this gin with a characterful citrus zing bringing you coastal notes, combined with peppery spice from the other ingredients which include juniper and grains of paradise. 

No cliffhangers here, this is definitely a gin worth trying.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 41.5%
Find here: £36.05

Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin (Australia)

Love olives? Then now let’s head down under to explore a multi-award-winning, bright and delicious savoury Aussie gin made with three types of cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil, olive leaf tea, rosemary, bay leaf, macadamia nuts and lemon myrtle. The aroma, flavour and texture of fresh olive is stunning. Very Mediterranean yet also very Australian at the same time. 

Perfect for a Gibson martini or in a G&T garnished with rosemary to accentuate the positively olivey notes. Bonzer.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 43.8%
Find here: £36.25

Shanty Seaweed Botanical Vodka (Dorset, UK)

Heading back to the UK now to expand on the coastal theme, here’s an expertly crafted small-batch vodka from Dorset that blends five hand-foraged British seaweeds to create stunning undercurrents of umami flavour. The subtle depth of flavour is further enhanced by ‘ripples’ of Asia with wasabi, galangal, yuzu, bergamot and sea buckthorn together with a pinch of local Dorset sea salt to remineralise the purest of water with which the spirit is cut.  Sip this and your taste buds instantly transport you somewhere quite magical and evoke the shoreline’s magnetic pull - you can almost hear waves softly lapping, whichever continent you’re on. The bottle itself is a work of art, fabulously reminiscent of a ship’s decanter, featuring a wrap-around design by Dorset artist Emma Brownjohn. As you turn the bottle around, the image distorts through the glass like you’re viewing the scene underwater! A vodka to savour, whether on its own or with a mixer.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 40%
Find here: £32

St George Distillery Green Chile Vodka (California, USA)

Staying with vodka, we now head to the US for a grain vodka that has a distinct flavour. In the glass, freshness meets a juicy, vegetal quality for a truly unique and delicious spirit. St George’s Green Chile vodka is made with five types of pepper with varying sweet/savoury qualities, all of which are grown in California: Jalapeño, Serrano, Habanero, Red Bell and Yellow Bell Pepper. The peppers in this spirit, combine with lime peel and coriander and result in rich and earthy aromas and flavours that dance on the palate to provide a spicy, perfect punch for the ultimate Bloody Mary.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 40%
Find here: £40.25

1800 Silver Blanco Tequila (Mexico)

Moving south from California into Mexico, here we find the brand that makes the world’s most-awarded Tequilas - with good reason. The key to 1800 Tequila’s excellence lies in its meticulous production process. Using 100% blue Weber agave, hand-picked from the fertile fields of the Jalisco region in Mexico, the brand embodies craftsmanship, quality and flavour. This unaged, pepper-forward, delicate spice tequila serves as a true representation of the pure essence of the agave plant. It offers a clean and crisp taste with subtle hints of citrus and pepper giving depth of flavour on which to base a refreshing Margarita. 

Don’t let the reasonable price fool you, this is quality Tequila: the solution to all of life’s prickly situations. 

Size: 700ml
ABV: 38%
Find here: £26 (normally £33)

QuiQuiRiQui Mole Pechuga Mezcal

Next we have a niche subcategory of Mexican spirit distilled from the agave plant: Pechuga mezcal. This is a nuanced, centuries-old, artisanal distillation method that remains unsung. Most pechugas follow a family formula passed down through generations, and call for local ingredients. Uncooked meat is usually suspended in the still to add animal protein/fats to the distillation process making it quite unique...  

But the thing about QuiQuiRiQui Mole Pechuga is, it’s vegetarian-friendly! A small batch mezcal made with local Espadin agave that’s roasted, fermented and distilled using traditional methods. Then, instead of meat, homemade black mole paste is rested in the spirit for two weeks before the second distillation. The mole paste is made with chillies, sesame seeds, almonds, peanuts, garlic, onions, raisins, bananas and cacao. This intriguing expression combines the characteristic thick mouthfeel of pechuga mezcal with aromas of leather, earth, black pepper and chocolate complemented by notes of toasted nuts, stewed fruit, earthy spice, roasted cacao and peppery spice throughout the palate.

As savoury spirits go, this is so intriguing, it’s one you just have to try - whether you’re veggie or not.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 47%
Find here: £69.25

Caol Ila 12 year old Single Malt Whisky (Islay, Scotland)

Caol Ila’s 12 year old (Pronunciation: "kool-eela") is Islay’s hidden single malt aged in ex-bourbon casks. Presenting lighter and more subtly than other Islay peated whiskies with a malt smokiness, it’s a whisky that’s highly prized by connoisseurs. Following our theme of savoury spirits, this is the one that best fits a flavour profile reminiscent of summer barbeques. Think savoury, grilled food aromas and BBQ flavours with a light fragrant smokiness on the nose, and a pleasant brine on the palate. In Gaelic, Caol Ila means “Sound of Islay”, referring to the distillery’s location overlooking the strait between Islay and Jura.  It’s a nice, uncomplicated, easy-drinking Islay Single Malt. Although peated whiskies aren’t to everyone’s tastes, I will say, many people who claim to not usually like peated whisky have said they enjoy drinking this one - just saying - a dram good trip - Islay be back.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 43%
Find here: £48.95

Linie Aquavit (Norway)

Finally, if you like an aged spirit but want something younger than 12 years old with a fine story, this one’s a must. On any trip to Scandinavia, one can be inundated by a complexity of spicy and savoury flavours, especially charismatic herbs such as dill, anise, coriander and caraway seeds. These are showcased perfectly in Norway’s national spirit, Linie Aquavit, which is now finding favour in some of the world’s more innovative bars. The distilled potato-based spirit derives its curious name from its unusual maturation at sea in oak casks, on board Norwegian trade ships that cross the equator (linie) twice en route to Australia and back again. This method results in many changes in temperature during the voyage which speeds up maturation. Check out the story on the label: “sailed to the other side of the world and back again for more than 200 years”. A bottle of Linie Aquavit on your table will provide both a talking point for your next family gathering and a delicious after dinner digestif best enjoyed the Scandinavian way - as a neat shot served at room temperature - with everybody drinking the shot in one. It can also be sipped of course. Aquavit’s herbal flavours will soothe the stomach and help with digestion after a large meal or family celebration. It complements many foods, and if you get a taste for it, you may even try pairing different styles of aquavit with different dishes. If you prefer to go your own way, it can also be served with a mixer over ice - but there’s no need to chill this bottle. It wouldn’t do those savoury flavours justice.

Size: 700ml
ABV: 41.5%
Find here: £37.83

I hope you feel inspired to try some new savoury spirits, either to drink on their own, with a mixer or in a delicious cocktail. There are plenty of new flavours out there to savour - as they say, the world’s your oyster!

By Robbie Jerram

To see more from Robbie either click on her bio above or here!