Chenin Blanc Beyond South Africa

Image credit: Will Wong

How will you celebrate Drink Chenin Day on 8th June?

Mention Chenin Blanc and you may think of South Africa. It was their signature grape till the late 20th century (often called Steen) when reds often replaced it, but it’s still the most widely planted Cape white grape, though it now only makes up one vine in five. Fortunately, old bush vine Chenin is having a renaissance with its intense flavours and longevity.

The grape itself can be traced to the Middle Loire Valley in France (see map below); sandwiched between the Melon de Bourgogne of Muscadet near the Atlantic coast, and the Sauvignon Blanc of the Upper Loire (Sancerre and Pouilly). 

The Nantes vineyards near Muscadet were planted by the Romans in the 4th century. In the year 2000, the Loire Valley was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is now the world’s largest Chenin Blanc growing region; accounting for almost 20% of all grapes planted there.

This versatile white grape adapts to a range of climates, from cool to moderate and warm. Flavours therefore vary according to the ripeness from apple to lemon through to peach and mango. Its natural high acidity makes Chenin Blanc suitable for late harvesting and cellaring for years in the bottle. Styles of wine range from dry to sweet, both oaked and unoaked. One of the most famous Loire appellations is Vouvray, with 7% of Chenin Blanc grown worldwide. Historically, about half of Chenin is made into sparkling wines especially in the cooler and wetter years. 

Whatever your first and recent experience of Chenin Blanc might be, we will take you through three wines from the Loire, then Margaret River in Western Australia before finishing in Stellenbosch, South Africa with a twist.

Bernard Fouquet Cuvée de Perruches Vouvray 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Established in 1978, Domaine des Aubuisières now owns thirty hectares of vineyard with clay-limestone terroir. The cuvée wines are the result of the partnership with local winemakers who select their best juices from different terroirs of the AOC Vouvray, before vinifying and blending in their cellars or on farms. Fermentation and ageing take place in temperature-controlled tanks.

Best taken out of the fridge 20 minutes ahead of serving, it’s bone dry with crisp acidity, and hints of ripe green apples. It has a mineral grip with tension. Serve with summer salad, creamy goat cheese or brie. Buttered white fish could be a lovey partner. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six

Savennières VB 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Savennières AOC spreads over 3 hills of schist totalling about 150 hectares, with steep south-facing vineyards situated on the north bank of the river Loire, in the Anjou-Saumur subregion. It is all Chenin Blanc here, and as a result of the low maximum yield restrictions imposed under appellation laws, the wines are highly concentrated and can be surprisingly long lived.

Savennières is typically more full-bodied than dry Vouvray, and a significant step up in concentration and quality from basic Anjou blanc. The dry wines are often steely and tart in their youth, comparable to good Chablis. This character begins to dissipate after five or so years in bottle.

Vignoble Branchereau (VB) is a sub-brand of Domaine des Forges, a five-generation family story since 1890. Environmental sustainability lies at the heart of their viticultural practice. The 2022 is the maiden vintage of a former stagiare (apprentice) of VB, made with their help. 

A serious gastro wine worth decanting and best served at 12ºC, with grilled or pan-fried white fish or poultry. Bold with oak influence. It is complex with citrus fruits and a long savoury mineral finish. Drink to 2027.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £17.50

Langlois-Chateau 'L'Extra par Langlois' Crémant de Loire Brut

Image credit: Will Wong

Crémant de Loire is the regional appellation for sparkling wines from Anjou, Saumur and Touraine – the heartland of the Loire Valley wine region of France. It was introduced in 1975 to provide France with a widely recognisable, high quality Loire sparkling wine title, as an alternative to the increasingly expensive wines of Champagne.

Using méthode traditionelle (secondary fermentation in the bottle as Champagne) rather than tank production, most Crémant spends at least 9 months in bottle on the lees during and following its secondary fermentation. Up to 11 grapes are permitted except Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin Blanc is the principal ingredient. 

Langlois-Chateau (not Chateau Langlois as it is sometimes thought) was created by Edouard Langlois and his wife Jeanne Château in 1885. It has been part of the Champagne Bollinger group since 1973. 

This sparkling wine is a blend of Chenin Blanc (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) with tight, persistent effervescence and a complex, nutty, gently honeyed nose. Maturation on the lees for a minimum of 12 months gives that biscuity flavour, adding a lingering sparkle to an easy-drinking fruity fizz. Serve cold between 8-10ºC and your party will lighten up. If stored correctly (away from direct light, heat source and on its side), the wine might further develop for up to three years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £15.99 or £10.99 Mix SIx.

South by Southwest Margaret River Chenin Blanc 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Located 300km south of Perth in Western Australia, set between the tranquil waters of Geographe Bay and the rugged Cape Leeuwin, you will find Margaret River, one of the world's premium and most isolated winemaking regions. With ocean on three sides, Margaret River is blessed with a Mediterranean climate of warm days and warm/cool nights. Cooling sea breezes from the southern Indian Ocean help to moderate temperatures and slow ripening; giving lower yield but top quality grapes. 

This region is more widely associated with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin Blanc however has a long history in Western Australia, with the first plantings coming from South Africa over 150 years ago. Oversupply led to the less good sites mostly pulled up, leaving only the very best. 

South by South West is the story of Mijan Patterson and Livia Maiorana (Mij & Liv), both sharing a passion for wine and desire for adventure that sparked a wine safari in 2013 across the most prized wine producing regions in California, Italy, France and British Columbia. In 2016 they turned their vision into reality by starting the winery; with the potential for making small batch wines that are both contemporary and classic, to tell a story about their region of origin.

The duo made their first Chenin only in 2020. Since then, they have experimented with a number of different styles and winemaking techniques – bonus for wine geeks: skin contact, tank ferment, barrel ferment, short maturation, longer maturation, newer oak, neutral oak, malolactic conversion, oxidation, and residual sugar.

2022 is their third vintage of Chenin, and what a star it is! Sourced from a single vineyard in the Treeton sub-region, the wine was barrel fermented and matured in old French oak barriques for nine months. Many of the barrels for this wine were purchased from Leeuwin Estate and previously used to make the iconic Art Series chardonnay, enhancing this wine's fantastic value.

The oak influence is subtle and pleasing. Notwithstanding their proud Margaret River spin, it was more Old World at first sip. Crisp citrus acidity with restrained fruit. Refined and balanced with a medium-body. A real gem.

The greatest surprise was it paired exceptionally well with venison lasagne. Not tried personally but according to goodpairdays.com, this Chenin Blanc is a top match for roast cauliflower or cauliflower soup, richer white meats like pork belly and creamy chicken breast dishes, and especially with recipes involving a classic Cantonese sweet and sour character. Coconut milk curries, cashew chicken and roast poultry will all work beautifully, too.

Drink to 2027. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95 

Aslina Skin Contact Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Look at the label of any South African wine, chances are you will see Stellenbosch a lot. Situated east of Cape Town in southwestern South Africa, virtually all of the Cape’s most famous wine estates are in the Stellenbosch district. At its heart lies the leafy university town surrounded by Arcadian countryside, whose curling white Cape Dutch gables are the beautiful cliché of the Cape.

Born in Mahlabathini, a rural village in the KwaZulu-Natal province, South Africa's first female black winemaker Ntsiki Biyela won a scholarship to study oenology and viticulture at Stellenbosch University in 1999, then made her name at Stellekaya, a boutique winery in Stellenbosch, picking up several awards along the way. She bottled her first Aslina wine in 2016, and the range now includes a Cabernet, a Bordeaux-style blend, Umsasane, a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc. 

Aslina is a tribute to her late grandmother who inspired and supported her. Fruit is sourced to the desired style and the wines are made at Koelenhof in Stellenbosch. When she is not making and promoting her own wines both at home and abroad, she is an active industry spokeswoman, and sits on the Board of the Pinotage Youth Development Academy which provides education and training to underprivileged young people to prepare them for work in the wine and hospitality industries. In 2017, she was listed in the World’s Top 10 Most Innovative Women in Food and Drink by Fortune’s Food & Wine.

If you look closely at the wine label, it echoes Ntsiki’s Zulu culture and heritage with a calabash, a traditional clay drinking vessel. Although used typically for beer, Ntsiki has her own unique twist by adding grapes to the calabash, transforming it into a container for her distinctive wines.

This is altogether a different kind of South African Chenin Blanc. No oak, texture from seven days’ skin contact does not overwhelm the ripe and soft fruit. Complex with an intense saline mineral long finish. Paired beautifully with crab pasta. Drink to 2025.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £16.99

If you want to explore Chardonnay, find our globetrotting guide here!

By Will Wong

What is Crémant and What Should I Try?

Sparkling wine tends to come to many of our minds during springtime, encouraged by the warmer weather and the celebratory period as wedding season beckons. Sparkling French wine is perfect for these occasions, but did you know there’s so much more out there than just Champagne? We're talking about Crémant which has enjoyed increased popularity lately, so you might be keen to know what it is and why Crémant sparks such interest. Let's delve further into the world of Crémant to find out more!

What is crémant?

First of all. Crémant is a sparkling wine variety, which is quality wine that can be either white or Rosé, produced within 8 specific regions in France (also referenced as appellations) – we will come back to those specific regions later. As the French treat Crémant as seriously as they do Champagne, the production of Crémant is protected, which is known as being AOC classified (controlled origin appellation) and the appellations are authorised by the INAO (France’s regulatory body for appellations). This means that not any old sparkling wine produced in France can just call itself a Crémant! Crémant is made by the traditional method production (similar to Champagne) and this specific production type binds all 8 appellations. There is even a National Federation of Crémant Growers and Producers that was founded in 1982!

Where does crémant come from?

Coming back to those 8 regions mentioned above, Crémant is produced in Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Die, Jura, Limoux, Loire and Savoie – these regions cover most of the corners of France, so this sounds like the perfect excuse for a spot of wine tourism with a French road trip following this wine route! Some of these regions, such as Bordeaux, may already be known to you for their still white and red wines and now you can also combine the usual wine tasting visit with tasting some bubbles too! The Crémant name is protected by the National Federation of Crémant Growers and Producers which encourages the knowledge and promotion of their beloved wine on a national and international scale.

What is the difference between champagne and crémant?

This is a good question as these are both sparkling wine varieties produced in France but the key difference is that Champagne can only be produced in the Champagne region, whereas there are other regions to choose from that produce Crémant. Plus, of course there is the price difference with Crémant being a cost effective solution without reducing the taste quality as it’s produced in the same way to Champagne. Crémant can use different grape varieties (Champagne only uses Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and can also have a higher PH level than Champagne.

Does crémant differ depending on the region (appellation) that it is made from?

Again, this is a very good question as a 2009 community regulation contains the requisites that all Crémant wines must adhere to and yet there are also regional differences. What is common to all Crémant wines is that there is secondary fermentation in the bottle (this is where the delightful bubbles are created due to carbon dioxide). The rules for Crémant also mean that the wines are aged in the bottle for at least 9 additional months, which is where that yeasty smell and taste may be apparent, as there is that contact with the lees (dead yeast cells) when the wine is stirred. Crémant must also be sold only 12 months after the bottling process. Furthermore, the other rules for Crémant are quite stringent; they must be manually harvested, the wine needs to come from specifically squeezed grapes, and there are restrictions on the amount of sulphur chemicals and the level of sugar content too! Let’s explore France some more to truly get to know Crémant!

Alsace

Within the Alsace region, vineyards are planted close to the local villages and it is therefore not surprising that the region is the largest producer of Crémant with around 32.9 million bottles sold per year! According to the Alsace regional tourism board, those sales fall second to that of Champagne in the sparkling wine production, which is a very impressive statistic! Crémant d’Alsace accounts for approximately 24% of Alsace’s wine production and there are regional stipulations governing Alsace’s Crémants, so let’s talk about those!

In 1976, Crémant d’Alsace received its AOC classification but the wine producers from Alsace employed the traditional method for their sparkling wines since the late 19th century! Some of the Alsace Crémants will involve a blend of grape varieties but others may be a single grape variety. But, Pinot Noir tends to be the main grape variety which provides that delicate taste. However, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay may also be present and Pinot Noir is the only variety used for the rosé version. As another tip, you can access the online directory for the Alsace wine route when in France!

Bordeaux

Bordeaux may be renowned for its delicious red wines but it is also a producer of quality Crémant sparkling wines! However, it was only in 1990 that the Crémant de Bordeaux received its AOC ranking. Similar to the Alsace region, Bordeaux also uses the traditional method for its crémant production and what you can expect from these Crémants, as indicated by the Bordeaux regional tourism board, are fine bubbles and aromatic wines. Crémant only accounts for 1% of the wine production in Bordeaux, making it one of the smaller Crémant producers but these typically use the same Bordeaux grapes as their still wines. Therefore, the main grape varieties you will see in a Crémant de Bordeaux are Sémillion and Sauvignon. For the Rosé Crémants, these might have a blend of Cabernet and Merlot.

Bourgogne

It was in the early 19th century that Champagne knowledge, via the village Rully, was imported to Bourgogne (Burgundy in English). But, the AOC classification for Crémant de Bourgogne was only received in 1975! Again, this Crémant uses the traditional method (méthode champenoise) and with Crémant de Bourgogne you can also find a Blanc de Blanc and Blanc des Noirs as well as the usual white and red varieties. You can expect to find the grapes of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir within these Crémants. There are approximately 19.2 million bottles sold each year which amounts to 10% of the wine produced in the Bourgogne region! Plus, there is the further segregation within Crémants from Bourgogne with the ‘eminent’ Crémants, aged for at least 24 months and the ‘grand eminent’ Crémants aged for 36 months or more!

Die (the Rhône)

From the Drôme Valley vineyards comes the Crémant de Die with its special location between the Alps and Provence. The vineyards therefore occupy some of France’s highest altitudes at nearly 700 metres! Die is approximately two hours away from Lyon in the south east of France and is one of the smallest Crémant producers. The appellation was received in 1993 and approximately 700,000 bottles of Crémant de Die are sold each year. The grape varieties typically used are Clairette, Aligoté and Muscat which create that green fruits aroma. Crémant de Die could also be combined with chestnut liqueur for a Kir which sounds like a very tempting cocktail to us!

Jura

Whilst this sparkling wine production dates back to the late 18th century, the AOC classification was only received in 1995! This appellation region is also connected with the Côtes du Jura, Arbois, Château-Chalon and L’Étoile. Crémant du Jura differs from some of the other appellations as there are five authorised grape varieties! These are Poulsard, Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Chardonnay and Savagnin. For white Crémants du Jura, there must be at least 70% of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau. At least 50% of Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau must be utilised for the Rosé and the grapes are hand harvested too! There are approximately 1.7 million bottles sold per year which accounts for around 16% of the total Jura AOC production. A fun fact is that there is also a specific Crémant du Jura flute glass specially designed to get the best out of your Crémant du Jura!

Limoux

Situated in the south of France and in the middle of the Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux was first mentioned in a document dating back to 1544 starting with the ancestral method of production. However, the AOC label was only granted to Crémant de Limoux in 1990, but it’s just one of five AOC classifications in the region. The AOC Crémant de Limoux typically consists of two main grape varieties being Chardonnay and Chenin with at least 90% of these varieties having to be used. Additionally, the other varieties Mauzac and Pinot Noir would use 40% maximum of the variety, of which 20% must be Mauzac. Like we said, it can be strict and precise! The grapes will be hand picked and the Crémants produced by the traditional method. The Crémants de Limoux are typically Brut with a floral aroma and the region sells approximately 5.8 million bottles per year. What is also exciting, as mentioned by the Limoux regional tourism board, is that the 33rd edition of the National Crémant Competition will take place in Limoux in April 2024 - keep an eye out for the winners!

Loire

The production area of Crémant de Loire covers the villages of Drain to Cheverny and therefore includes AOC classified regions such as Anjou and Saumur. Crémant de Loire received its appellation in 1975 and its northern location means that there is a diversity of climates impacting the grapes production. The main grape varieties used are Chenin and Cabernet Franc, but there may be blends using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Grolleau Noir, Grolleau Gris and Orbois to add more flavour! The Crémants de Loire will therefore typically be quite fresh and subtle on the nose and approximately 17 million bottles are sold each year.

Savoie

In the steep valleys of the Alps, the Crémant de Savoie is the newest region to receive its appellation, which was only granted in 2015! The AOC Crémants de Savoie use a multitude of grape varieties but there are restrictions, as usual, for production! The main grape varieties used are the Savoyard Jacquère and Altesse grapes of which 60% must be used - the other 40% being from the Jacquère grapes. Other grape varieties include Chasselas, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay for the other 40% but there must be a maximum 20% of grape varieties used. You should therefore expect fresh and citrus aromas from the Crémants de Savoie given the cool climate and there are approximately 350,000 bottles sold each year. It would therefore be ideal to combine your skiing with wine tasting in the Savoie region!

Which crémants should I try?

Now that you are armed with all of this Crémant knowledge about the appellations, here are some bottles of Crémant that we think you will love!

Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire Rosé

This is a smooth drinkable Rosé with a pale pink salmon colour. It is bursting full of strawberries with a light aroma, a dry flavour and medium finish. It offers a subtle elegance that makes it ideal to drink by itself as an after work treat! This one is a definite crowd pleaser!

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £12.50

Louis Vallon Crémant De Bordeaux Blanc De Noirs

A medium bodied Crémant with a light texture, this is an easy drinking elegant bottle. There are citrus, peaches and apple aromas on the nose with a slight detection of yeast and almonds. This Crémant pairs well with almonds as an aperitif.

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £14.75

Cave De Turckheim NV - ALSACE AOC

This is a balanced Crémant from Alsace with a pale lemon colour and fine bubbles and tastes just like a Champagne! There are peach and floral aromas on the nose with a medium intensity and strong finish which pairs quite well with popcorn for a film night!

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £12.75

N.V. Crémant de Bourgogne, Dufouleur Pere et Fils

This is Brut Crémant with a slightly golden colour and is from the Nuit St George’s area. There is a fruity aroma with green apple and peach with a creamy biscuits taste on the palate and medium intensity as a good all rounder.

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £17.75

Waitrose Cuvée Royale Brut Crémant de Limoux

This is a fresh tasting Crémant with big bubbles from the Limoux region. It has a medium complexity with an aroma of floral pears to provide a light but dry wine with a biscuity taste. This would pair very well with salmon blinis for those celebrations!

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12.5%
Price: £13.99

Aldi Specially Selected Crémant du Jura

This Crémant is very popular and keeps flying off the shelves - we can see why! It is a flavourful, aromatic Crémant packed with a fruit forward profile which is also fresh with green apple and a creamy secondary aroma with medium intensity and finish. This would be the ideal Crémant to have with brunch with friends!

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £8.99

Château de l'aulée Crémant NV - Crémant de Loire

This is a dry Crémant that surprisingly tastes just like a Champagne and is very quaffable! It uses Chenin Blanc as its single grape and has a golden colour with rich primary and secondary aromas of apple, brioche and biscuits. This will appeal to many palates and would work well with sea food.

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12.5%
Price: £18.99

Benjamin Darnault Vignerons Wife Crémant de Bourgogne Brut

A very smooth, easy drinking Crémant which is a Chardonnay blend. This is ideal for those who enjoy a lighter, subtle sparkling wine with aromas of green apple, floral and a crisp taste. This will be ideal for sitting in the garden with a picnic.

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £19.99

Sainsburys Taste the Difference Crémant d’Alsace

This is a dry tasting Alsace Crémant with hints of green apple, citrus flavours and secondary flavours of brioche. It has a medium intensity with high acidity and a creamy texture to provide that balanced profile and can be drunk by itself for that spa day!

Size: 75cl
ABV: 12%
Price: £11.50

We would love to hear which Crémants you have tried as they make such a good alternative to Champagne and there is often not that much difference in the taste, depending on the region! Crémant will be great for those spring and summer special occasions or a perfect excuse to treat yourself - what are you waiting for? Santé!

By Latoya Austin