7 German Rieslings You Need to Try

Image credit: Wines of Germany

Blue Nun oder Liebfraumilch? Nein Nein.

When did you last try a German white wine, and Riesling to be precise? The mind might go blank. Aren’t they all a bit too sweet and acidic, with too low alcohol? Or you could be old enough to miss or mock ‘Blue Nun’, a semi-sweet German white, the mass market export brand associated with Liebfraumilch, literally ‘beloved Lady’s milk’; referring to the Liebfrauenkirche (the Church of Our Lady) in Worms, Germany, near where the wine was originally produced.

Departing from the often innumerable German wine labels with Gothic script and long, complicated names, Blue Nun became an ironic icon of German wine for many who do not speak German or are less familiar with what Germany has to offer the world.

Anne Krebiehl, the only German Master of Wine (MW) living in the UK, reminded us of how recently the status of German wine had changed within Germany itself. “People forget the doldrums of German wine, especially from about 1985 to 1995. If you were cool in Germany then, you didn’t drink German wine,” she said. “But it has changed this century. It happened with dry Riesling (Trocken) first. 

Winemakers in Germany have progressively steered away from the semi-sweet to sweet spectrum. There is now a wide range of well-made and balanced dry Rieslings and other whites that gain domestic and international recognition. However, that does not mean off-dry, semi-sweet or sweet wines are inferior. Far from that in fact; as the best grapes are often harvested late to retain their residual sugar. Riesling’s high natural acidity is perfect for balancing high levels of sweetness.

31 Days of German Riesling?

Image credit: Wines of Germany

The quality of German wines has improved immeasurably in the last two decades. To build on this momentum, Wines of Germany first launched the 31 Days of German Riesling campaign in 2012 (remember the London Olympics?) to raise awareness of Riesling.

Now for its 13th edition this July, there are over 100 events from in store tastings to virtual events and tasting menus across the UK. You can even play an interactive online game and find out more about your preferred style of Riesling here.

Research suggests it takes 30 days to form a new habit, so welcome to the 31 Days of (German) Riesling! Other countries and grapes are available, but why wouldn’t you want to drink outside your comfort zone?

The Riesling Grape

Image credit: Wines of Germany

A noble grape loved by the wine trade but often shunned by consumers, Riesling is probably one of the most misunderstood and underrated varietals. 

Naturally aromatic with high acidity, the late-ripening Riesling does not like heat. Vine-growers therefore have many harvesting options to make light to full-bodied wines from bone-dry to off-dry, semi-sweet or the sublimely sweet. The specific fruit flavours in the wine vary with the degree of ripeness in the grapes at the time of harvest. Grapes that are just ripe produce wines with green apples and pear, citrus flavours of lime and lemon, and floral characteristics. With grapes that are extra-ripe, we get flavours of stone fruit such as peach and apricot, tropical fruit (mango and pineapple) and even dried fruit (dried apricots).

Riesling does not like blends or oak either. It mirrors terroir - latitude, the soil and micro climate; and cooperates less well with the winemaker’s intervention. With the right conditions, it develops a tension true to its pedigree. 

No matter where in the world it is grown, the Riesling grape which retains acidity and builds up sugar and flavour slowly makes wines that can outlast those made from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This is true even of relatively inexpensive examples. Riesling develops more nuanced flavours as it ages. Some fine Rieslings could go on and on. Many years ago, Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson MW hosted a tasting in Frankfurt which demonstrated that a fine Mosel Riesling could outlast red Bordeaux. Some date back to the early 1970s and are still going strong if cellared carefully.

Deciphering the German Riesling label

Many modern German Rieslings sold on the UK market have simplified and adapted their former Gothic heritage to more contemporary designs. If you look at its front and back label, you are likely to see the following:

VDP with a dark eagle logo - that symbolises grapes from a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) which is further classified as either Qualitätswein - the wine must come from one of 13 ‘wine growing areas’ in Germany (see below) or Prädikatswein - a higher minimum level of sugar is required in the grapes that is needed for Qualitätswein.

There are six Prädikat categories. The most common of which are Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese, classified in increasing sugar levels in the grapes at the time of harvest. Though these wines carry some sweetness, they can also be made in a dry style. All clear or totally confused?

The sweeter the wine, the lower the alcohol and, in general, the longer the wine’s life.

Keeping things simple, Trocken (dry) is perhaps the most useful term to look out for if you prefer that style of whites. Klaus Peter Keller, a champion exponent of it, who put Rheinhessen on the map feels that 30 or more years’ ageing is no problem for the most lauded of Germany’s dry Rieslings, the Grosse Gewächse (“GGs” equivalent to the Grand Crus in Burgundy).

Where is Riesling grown in Germany?

Image credit: Wines of Germany

Germany has almost 60,000 vineyard acres of Riesling. It grows in every one of Germany’s 13 major wine regions, called Anbaugebiete. The most famous Anbaugebiete for high-quality German Riesling are Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen.

Mosel

The scenic Mosel Valley, named for the river which serpentines through it, is about as far north in Germany as Riesling could prosper; at least before climate change became an urgent issue. Vineyards in the narrow valley are on steep slopes of blue slate; some up to 80º elevation. The steeper the slope the better, as that gives vines “stadium seating” for best sun exposure as the river reflects light and heats up the slopes.

With its latitude, frequent cloud cover and rain, Mosel Rieslings have low to medium alcohol content with fruit leaning towards the least ripe profile - green apples, lemon and lime.

Rheingau

It’s a tiny region, making only 2% of Germany’s wine, but the vineyards all have southern facings with unimpeded sun exposure. Rheingau's slate is predominantly red which absorbs more water and heat from the sun than blue slate found in Mosel. That warmth is released to the vines at night.

As a result, Rheingau Rieslings tend to be riper, fuller, and more powerful than those from the Mosel. Their aromas and flavours reflect that with yellow stone fruit and even tropical notes. 

Rheinhessen

No Anbaugebiet makes more wine than Rheinhessen. Compared to most of the neighbouring growing areas, Rheinhessen is broad and without slope with very large vineyards. Lying just across the river from Rheingau, the same range of hills protects it. And the flat terrain means it gets sun all day.

Over the past twenty years, Riesling’s share of total plantation has risen from about 10% to nearly 20%. It is now the most-planted variety there.

7 German Rieslings to whet your palate

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Whether you are an aficionado or simply curious about German Riesling, we have hand-picked seven German bone-dry to off-dry Rieslings from Mosel to Rheinhessen. They share some core similarities - fresh acidity and versatility with food, whilst differ from having a touch of sweetness to saline minerality. There is something for everyone.

Sainsbury’s Winemakers’ Selection Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen

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Part of Sainsbury’s new mid-strength range, this own-label medium-dry Riesling is quaffable at an incredible price. Green apples with a hint of petrol on the nose, it’s ideal to drink with Thai or Vietnamese cuisine and anything fiery with chilli. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 9%
Find here: £5.00 Sainsbury’s

Waitrose Blueprint Dry German Riesling 2023, Moselland, Mosel

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An easy-drinking and good value dry Riesling from Mosel. At 11% ABV, it is ideal for summer but serve it at around 10-12ºC or its acidity might impair your tasting experience. Goes well with poached chicken and spicy dishes.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £8.49 Selected Waitrose and Waitrose Cellar (online)

Peter & Ulrich Griebeler Dry Riesling 2022, Mosel

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Peter & Ulrich Griebeler are a small, family-run producer based in Germany’s Mosel region. Sourcing grapes from different villages, they are aged on the lees for a subtly rounded texture. With hints of petrol on the nose, it is very pale with racy acidity of grapefruit. A touch of minerality that works well with summer salad and seafood paella.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £13.99 or £11.99 Mix Six, Majestic

The Society’s Exhibition Rheingau Riesling 2020, Hochheim am Main

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2023 Decanter World Wine Awards Bronze Medal. Based in Hochheim, Gunter Künstler, one of the Rheingau's top winemakers crafted this refined dry Riesling for The Wine Society (UK). Despite its lush tropical aromas of peach, white blossom and lemon curd, it is bone dry with a steely and long saline mineral finish. Very sensitive to temperature change in the glass, it’s best served between 10-12°C to maintain its fresh acidity. Richer than a Mosel Riesling, this would stand up well to spicy Asian dishes or even complement roast pork.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5% 
Find here: £14.50 The Wine Society

Zilliken Riesling Trocken 2022, Mosel

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Floral, clean cut dry German riesling from a ripe and sunny vintage. With citrus and a touch of apple, this has a steely and saline mineral finish. It has an underlying tension that needs time to unwind. In German, this is classified as a gutswein , which means estate wine. All the grapes come from the estate and from the various plots owned by Zilliken. Even so, ageing is done in traditional 1000-litre fuder barrels.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £15.50 The Wine Society

Fritz Ekkehard Huff Pettenthal Riesling Trocken 2021, Nierstein-Schwabsburg, Rheinhessen

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Schwabsburg lies a little inland from the Rhine, just behind Nierstein. The Huff family has been farming here since 1700. In 2010, Ekkehard Huff’s daughter Christine joined the family enterprise, and together with her New Zealand-born husband Jeremy, they are now part of the young ‘golden generation’ of winemakers who practise biodynamic viticulture.

No petrol or green apples aroma here. The winemakers are like an orchestral conductor who led the grapes and terroir symphony, where it is all finesse, balance with subtlety. Bone dry with a steely mineral finish. Think Chablis Premier Cru.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £22.00 Howard Ripley

Schloss Lieser Thomas Hagg Niederberg Helden Riesling Kabinett 2020, Mosel

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At up to 80º steep slopes with blue slate, the 110-year old ungrafted vines here in Niederberg Helden produce highly complex and premium Riesling with masculinity and structure. 

Pronounced green apples on the nose, this exquisite Kabinett Riesling is off-dry but not sickly sweet on its own. A little lychee mid-palate with minerals. It really shows its best when paired with sweet and sour cuisine. Chilli? Bring that on. The restrained sweetness and low-alcohol makes it a far better partner than any dry whites or reds. Drink to 2032.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 8.5%
Find here: £17.17 Howard Ripley

Why German Riesling?

We hope any scepticism about German Riesling is amply dispelled. An off-dry or even medium sweet wine could work wonders with strong cheeses and fiery South or Southeast Asian dishes. The resulting lower alcohol is just perfect for summer.

When it comes to the drier styles, its racy acidity and steely texture stays true to provenance and terroir, rather than manipulation by winemakers for a certain commercial style. Above all, Riesling when stored properly will age not only gracefully, but possibly outlive you. How much do you like your heirs?

If you want to know even more about German Riesling:

The Wines of Germany by Anne Krebiehl MW; part of The Infinite Ideas Classic Wine Library (Académie du Vin Library)

Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards Wine Book 2020 Winner. Comprehensive and scholarly, yet accessible to any wine enthusiast or student. It is an invaluable reference guide providing a historical context of German winemaking areas, and the rise of Riesling as well as Spätburgunder in Germany.

By Will Wong

Which Wine Should I Drink Now and What Can I Keep?

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So many wines from around the world across price points - how do you pick your bottle or two, or even mix 3-6 with the seasonal and perpetual 25% off deals from supermarkets and High Street retailers? Do you buy wines weekly or keep some away for special occasions? With new wines appearing online and on the shelves all the time, how do you judge price vs quality and which wines are worth keeping? 

For the UK retail market, the average spend on a bottle of wine is between £5 - £6.99. Say on a bottle of £6 wine, only 89p is attributed to the wine itself after excise duty, VAT, packaging, logistics and retail margin. Whilst on a £10 and £20 bottle before discounting, the actual value for the wine itself rises to £2.64 and £6.98 respectively. In other words, you get more wine for your money as you spend more per bottle. That does not mean a £20 bottle of wine is necessarily three times ‘better value for money’ than a £10 one though!

There is also a myth that wines improve over time. Yes and no. Red, white and sparkling wines all have different lifespans. As a ballpark, if you paid under £12 (before discounting) for a bottle of wine, perhaps it is not worth extended keeping. There are always exceptions.

Climate change and market conditions (global wine production in 2023 dropped by 10% from the previous year) add pressure on winemakers and producers to release wines for early consumption. Not many of us have the storage space at home for a cellar, or the intention to invest in the services of commercial storage specialists. It is therefore not surprising to see one UK leading supermarket’s own brand range with ‘Storage: It is recommended that this wine be consumed within 1 year of purchase.’ on the back label. Having said all that, some ‘fine’ or even everyday wines will reward us through patience, and a few common sense storage criteria (see below).

The eight wines below are for illustrative purposes, across generic categories and vintages. Accepting each wine is unique, we hope to inspire you through some general principles, in getting the most enjoyment from each bottle now and well into the future.

Image credit: Will Wong

Rosé 

Most pink wines such as this Miraval Côtes de Provence are meant to be drunk young and fresh. Only keep your rosé in the fridge when ready to open. If stored correctly (see below), this could easily retain its crisp freshness for 2-3 years after purchase. Long gone is the perception that rosé is something you sip by the pool on holiday or only in the summer. Depending on individual wines, some rosé pair well with spicy food and the off-dry varieties stand up to fiery chilli. 

Non-Vintage (NV) Champagne or Sparkling Wines

As a very general rule, drink Prosecco within a year of purchase. On the other hand, NV champagne (those without a year on the label) and sparkling wines such as the Balfour Hush Heath Estate Leslie’s Reserve made in the traditional method with secondary in-bottle fermentation deliver more complex flavours and greater intensity, which may well develop further over 1-5 years if stored properly.

Cava made in the traditional method mostly in Catalunya, when unopened and stored properly, can generally last 1-2 years past the expiration date stated on the label. 

Reds to drink now

e.g. Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, Chianti, Rioja Crianza or other Tempranillo-based wines, and most wines under £12.

Much depends on the grape (inherent acidity and level of tannins in the skin) and also winemaking style. In general, most reds keep longer than still whites due to the tannins (think the slightly bitter and leathery feel from a cup of strong black tea). Even the traditional tannic Bordeaux and Burgundy fine reds are now more approachable when opened relatively young (e.g. vintages 2017/18). 

Rioja (mostly Tempranillo) is a popular red from Spain. It has four ageing categories by law:

• Joven: typically young and fruity, with no minimum ageing requirements and are typically released in the year following the vintage (the year in which the grapes were harvested);

• Crianza: must be aged in oak barrels prior to release. These wines develop additional flavours such as vanilla, smoke and coconut;

• Reserva: such as the above M&S No.21 Lomas del Marques 2015, must be aged for extended periods of time before release, both in oak barrels and in-bottle. The flavours are usually more pronounced and complex than a Crianza. The M&S Reserva 2015 was released in 2021, with a drinking window to 2025; so it is probably peaking now;

• Gran Reserva: subject to the highest minimum ageing requirements and are reflected in their higher prices.

Due to the above ageing requirements, mature Spanish reds are often great value for money when released in the UK, if you prefer wines with greater depth and texture without having to wait another 5-10 years!

Below, we will show you a fine red that is worth keeping.

Whites to drink now

e.g. Pinot Grigio, Viognier / Condrieu, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, Vinho Verde, Albariño and other Galician whites; and most whites under £12.

In recent years, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough have become the Darling Buds of May, or anytime anywhere. When young, they have that zesty acidity, grassy and asparagus nose with a lemony and sometimes flinty palate. It is rarely marketed as an age-worthy white, unlike the fine whites (chardonnay) from Burgundy such as Chablis Grand Cru or Puligny-Montrachet. 

The above Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2022 is regarded as one of the finest from Marlborough with a premium price tag. It is expected to keep up to five years. Nothing is absolute for wine. Far from being over the hill, a bottle of Yealands Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019 from Awatere Valley, Marlborough at less than half the price of the Cloudy Bay was still robust with fresh acidity and a long mineral finish when opened in April 2024. 

We now turn our attention to four categories of wine you might like to keep, if you could resist the temptation.

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Fine Reds

e.g. most above £12 - Pinot Noir/Red Burgundy, Sangiovese such as Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, Grenache/Garnacha, southern Rhône reds such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Shiraz/Syrah and northern Rhône reds such as Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, Merlot - Right-Bank Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon - Left-Bank Bordeaux, and Nebbiolo - Barolo & Barbaresco. 

The Penfolds Max’s Shiraz 2020 from Adelaide Hills, South Australia was released in 2022; retaining black fruit concentration with high acidity and firm tannins at a whopping 14.5% ABV. These elements together provide the in-bottle conditions to help the tannins soften over time, and develop further complexity till 2031. Of course you can open and drink it now, and it is probably more accessible than its Northern Rhône counterparts (Côte-Rôtie & Hermitage). Given Penfolds’ suggested drinking window, this fine Shiraz is still a baby that needs time to calm down. 

Fine Whites

e.g. most above £12 - Rhône whites such as Hermitage Blanc, Chablis, Chardonnay, white Burgundy, Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Riesling. 

Less famous than Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, and not the most widely grown; Riesling is often hailed as the noble grape by wine professionals, but not consumers who often associate it with German sweet wines with low alcohol. Occasional indecipherable labels in only German do not help either. 

Unlike Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling is renowned for its capacity to develop for years, even decades in bottle. As an aromatic grape varietal, Riesling does not need high alcohol to be made into a variety of wines from dry to off-dry, medium and sweet, and from light to full in body

Yet, if you were to taste a fruity and light Riesling from Mosel, Germany, usually between 8-10% ABV, side by side with a bone dry version at 13% ABV from the Clare or Eden Valley in South Australia, they could not be more different. Other fine Rieslings are also produced in Alsace and Austria; such as the Rabl Schenkenbichl Riesling Reserve 2018 (13% ABV) drinking to 2026 at least.

Vintage Champagne or Sparkling Wines

If you look closely at the above Hattingley Blanc de Blancs 2014 from Hampshire England, it clearly states ‘Traditional Method Brut’ Vintage 2014. In exceptional years, a portion of the best grapes are used to create a Vintage Champagne or Sparkling Wine. ‘Brut’ usually denotes dry due to the high acidity and lively dissolved bubbles in the wine. 

2014 was an exceptional year for some of the finest parcels of Hampshire Chardonnay that were used in creating this Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay). 13% of the wine was fermented in old oak barrels to add a creamy and toasty texture to the palate. Ageing on lees for over five years added further complexity. It was only disgorged in March 2020 and released in 2021. This costly and laborious winemaking method produces fine sparkling wine in small quantities commanding very high prices. 

High quality vintage champagne or sparkling wines should keep for 2-10 years after release, not the vintage year.

Sweet Wines

There are different styles of sweet wines such as the Canadian Icewine and German Eiswein made with frozen grapes. Other famous varieties such as Sauternes and the Hungarian Tokaji Aszú are made from ripe grapes affected by Botrytis (Noble Rot), a fungus that causes the water in the grapes to evaporate, resulting in high concentration of acids, sugars and flavours which are essential to produce premium sweet wines. 

This Disznókõ Tokaji Aszú 2017 is made mainly from Furmint, an indigenous Hungarian grape with natural high acidity very susceptible to botrytis. Tokaji Aszú spends a significant time ageing in oak, giving a balance of intense stone fruits (apricots), citrus fruits with vanilla and smoke, and aromas of dried fruit, caramel and nuts. The sweetness and full-body are balanced by high acidity with a long and intense finish. It is a treat with blue cheese, desserts, foie gras or on its own. The 2017 vintage will continue to develop complex flavours for up to 20 years in the bottle.

How should I store my wines?

Wine is a fragile living thing. Temperature fluctuations and strong direct light are combo killers; so a kitchen wine rack is definitely out. They need a consistent temperature, ideally around 13ºC but anywhere between 10-20ºC is acceptable; so avoid proximity to fireplaces or central heating radiators. 

Avoid placing your wines, especially sparkling wines near direct natural or artificial light.

With cork closure, it’s best to store the bottles on their side in a cool, dry and dark place. Screwcaps can be placed upright.

How long should I keep my wines?

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As you may have probably realised by now, this is a very difficult question besides the above general guidelines. With fine wines, it might be worth buying 3-12 wines of the same vintage if you have the space, patience and budget to open one periodically. This is a luxury and pleasure in being able to chart your favourite wine’s journey in your home.

Fortunately, help is at hand via a little annual wine bible: Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book (Ed. Margaret Rand) published since 1977. Besides the quick vintage charts as seen above, this little gem lists leading producers from Austria to Uruguay; with special emphasis on Bordeaux producers’ best vintages and their readiness to drink. It is indispensable as an up-to-date succinct reference source.

Last but not least, wines are to be drunk. More and more wines are now made to be consumed sooner rather than later. Having the patience and space to store wines properly is likely to be rewarded. But as Margaret Rand put it, some of these laid down wines might outlive you. It depends on how much you like your heirs.

By Will Wong