Chablis

12 of the Best Wines for English Wine Week 2024

the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Mention English wine and you may get three types of responses. Preaching to the converted, still an overall minority; or those who remember trying a few sparklers, usually from the big and established producers. The rest didn’t even know wines are made in England, or believe they are generally overpriced and not very good. Does that resonate with your experience?

In fact, there are now almost a thousand vineyards scattered across England alone, including over 200 commercial wineries. The paradox of climate change and global warming has benefited English vineyards in general. In 2022, total production was up by 36% year-on-year. 2023 saw a bumper harvest in which the UK experienced higher-than-ever yields and bunch numbers due to the volume of rain throughout the growing season. So, the only way is up, right?

What is the English Wine Week?

What is the English Wine Week? the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

The first English Wine Week (EWW) was launched in 2006 when Laura Rhys MS was a sommelier struggling to convince consumers of the merits of English sparkling. Now, Rhys, a brand ambassador for Gusbourne Estate, can legitimately pitch the Fifty-One Degrees North, Gusbourne’s prestige cuvée (and the most expensive English wine on the UK market at £195), against the likes of Dom Perignon. In just under three decades, the English wine scene has progressed by leaps and bounds. 

In 2024, EWW officially runs from Saturday 15th to Sunday 23rd June. Producers and vineyards across the land, including the four urban wineries in London are throwing parties and special popup events. It is the perfect opportunity to spend your holidays and weekends with a stay or trip to your local vineyard, celebrating at a wine festival, and then taking home a couple of bottles to share your experience with friends. The WineGB website has a dedicated page on how to get the most out of EWW 2024.

To mark this special occasion, this bumper edition takes you on a tasting tour with twelve very different wines from Suffolk to the Crouch Valley in Essex (one of the most sought after vine-growing spots), then through Kent and Sussex to Dorset and finally weather-permitting tropical Cornwall. You might see a few familiar and favourite labels, and be surprised by others. Above all, we wish to champion some lesser known but worthy contenders on the ever expanding English wine stage; not just at home but extending far and wide to the United States, Scandinavia and Japan.

The Best English White Wines

In volume terms, still wines account for around a third in total production compared with sparkling. The marginal climate and erratic weather patterns in Britain do not ensure consistent ripening conditions for grapes; at least before the 1980s. Vine-growers back then experimented with German varietals such as the white Müller-Thurgau and Reichensteiner, which had a higher chance of early ripening in cooler climates. It is also much more challenging to make decent still wines with unripe grapes and their overt acidity.

Wine writer Henry Jeffreys recalled the trailblazer Gillian Pearkes with her 1981 book ‘Vinegrowing in Britain’: while everyone else was looking to Germany for inspiration, she saw that France and specifically Champagne and Chablis could be a model for viticulture in England. As well writing on the subject, Pearkes planted her own vineyard at Yearlstone in Devon, acted as mentor to Bob Lindo at Camel Valley in Cornwall and encouraged Stuart and Sandy Moss at Nyetimber: “Find the right site and you will grow Chardonnay in England,” 

Four decades on, Chardonnay and Bacchus (covered in our previous guides) are now the most planted white grapes in England. Although they are yet to gain comparable international standings as the sparklers, quality has improved beyond imagination as producers experiment with sites and signature styles. Below are two outstanding Chardonnay and two Pinot Gris (related to Pinot Grigio) with very different characters.

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

‘The only question that matters is who’s going to buy your wine’

~ Charles Simpson

Charles and Ruth Simpson started their wine business as Domaine Saint Rose in Languedoc, southern France in 2002. By 2012, they saw the potential and moved back to England. After buying a 12 hectares / 30-acre site with lime-rich chalk soil in the North Downs in Kent, similar to the terroir in Champagne and Burgundy, Simpsons’ Wine Estate was born. Followed by their own winery in 2016, they now own three vineyard sites covering 38 hectares / 112 acres. 

Whilst most new vineyard owners opted for the sparkling clones (safer for Britain’s cool climate but needs a much longer time span before any wines are ready to be released), Ruth Simpson hatched a bet with planting some non-sparkling clones; hoping to sell still wines before their first sparkling is ready for the market. The high-quality and bumper 2018 vintage firmly established the Simpsons brand. 

This unoaked Chardonnay seems to have two personalities. Those who love the classic lush tropical fruits on its nose will be drawn instantly. Or if you are ‘anything but Chardonnay’, the greatest surprise came when paired with smoked haddock risotto. It turned flinty with a long finish like a Chablis. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.74 (25% off £16.99 till 02/07/2024)

The Only Way is Essex

Tell your wine snob friends about ‘Grapes from Essex’ and raise a few eyebrows. Crouch Valley to be precise, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. No, this is not a joke about Essex. It is no secret to most in the wine trade that many of the UK’s best-known wine producers, from the southernmost vineyards of the country and all the way up north, are buying fruit from Essex and have done so for many years. Instead of the chalky soil at Simpsons in Kent, the River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. Working with the highly respected viticulturist Duncan McNeill, the family converted 4 hectares / 11 acres of their arable land facing the River Crouch into a vineyard back in 2017. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

After harvest, the grapes are transported to Devon-based Lyme Bay Winery who has been sourcing grapes from Essex, where winemakers James Lambert and Sarah Massey produce the wine for Riverview Crouch Valley. Their debut 2020 Chardonnay received critical acclaim from critics and buyers alike. At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

With its classic and simple label showing off the now famous River Crouch, this is one of England’s finest. There is not yet any typical English Chardonnay style. It does not try to be Burgundian or Australian / Californian. Despite its pale lemon appearance in the glass, the nose is lush with restrained tropical fruits. Nothing shouty here. Hints of vanilla comes through the brief oak ageing in old French barriques. The palate has subdued stone fruit with a little smokiness which is unusual for a Chardonnay. Whichever camp of ABC you belong to, this is a serious gastro wine that calls for your attention. A match made in heaven with roast chicken as Katie suggested, or even roast pork. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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Back in the 1960s, Maurice and Ruth Ash moved with their Jersey cows from Essex on the train to the Sharpham Estate over-looking the River Dart in South Devon. Over time, they planted some trial vines on the sunny south-facing slope in front of Sharpham House. Successes were steady with the next generation of vine-growers and winemakers in the Ash's nephew, Mark Sharman and Duncan Schwab, head winemaker and now CEO, who joined the team in 1992.

Then in 2008, Sharpham were approached by the owner of Sandridge Barton Estate on the eastern riverbank for help with planting vines on the basis that Sharpham might take the grapes. The terroir and its proximity was godsend to expand Sharpham’s acreage by 120%. And finally in 2020, Sharpham built its own solar-powered, with rain and waste-water harvesting 120,000 bottle capacity two-level winery adjacent to where the majority of the fruit is sourced. That culminated in the decision to relocate and rebrand as Sandridge Barton, with a fully-fledged visitor centre and cafe since 2022. 

Only 3300 bottles were released. Unfined, unfiltered with minimal sulphur, this experimental orange wine had two-week skin contact with indigenous yeast during fermentation. It is a little like the natural wines made with amphora from Georgia. Taut acidity with firm tannins. Due to the lees in the bottle, expect cloudiness so best stand the bottle upright for at least an hour before opening. Decant and serve at room temperature with Carpaccio. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 10.5%
Find here: £21.00

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Oast – a kiln for drying hops. Brook – a small natural stream.

Oastbrook is located on a beautiful farm by the banks of the River Rother, only a stone’s throw from Bodiam Castle in East Sussex. It had been owned by Guinness for the farming of hops as the Oast houses themselves were used for drying the hops. 

The wine estate is the brainchild of husband Nick and wife America Brewer who grew up in the Bahia region of Brazil. Nick used to work in finance internationally but retrained at Plumpton College as a winemaker. America was top of her year in plant biology on her BSc in viticulture and oenology at Plumpton. She planted her first vines at Oastbrook only in 2017. They tell their own story here.

Nick described their wines as America’s sunshine and charismatic personality in bottles. The couple passionately believe in sustainable ecology starting with soil health. “Learn from the grapes and don’t copy others” is their shared motto. With the range of activities and amenities on site, their dedication to the land, produce and community with business acumen is evident. 

Only 2250 bottles of the 2023 Pinot Gris were released. Its nose could easily fool you as a Riesling with hints of petrol. A full-bodied unoaked gastro wine with citrus acidity and a long mineral finish. Think Bacchus or Sauvignon Blanc with greater intensity and texture. It pairs well with sautéed king prawns and asparagus pasta tossed in pesto. Abundant substance to lay down for a couple of years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.50

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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Haphazard weather means variation in grape ripeness from vintage to vintage. The earlier varietals such as Madeleine Angevine, Dornfelder, Regent or Rondo seem to have fallen out of fashion to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier which are used in making Traditional Method sparkling wines. But are rosés the answer to harnessing less than fully ripened black grapes? To date, there is no uniform signature English rosé style as in Provence. In global volume terms, English rosé is still a cottage industry through trial and error at the mercy of changing climate. When done well, there are hidden gems that are unique and not copycats of Provence or Italy. 

It is only in the last five years quality still wine is made out of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The amount of vineyards in Britain that are growing still wine grapes is probably in the low hundreds of hectares, which is the equivalent of one village in France worth of vineyard area. 

Producing a serious still Pinot Noir is even more demanding. Winemakers want the colour from the skin, which must be fully ripe – or they risk extracting harsh green tannins from it. It can be tricky to get the ripeness levels and style of fruit needed even with warmer summers over the last decade or so; according to Laura Rhys at Gusbourne. 

We have found four shining examples of English rosé and Pinot Noir well worth savouring.

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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Giffords Hall is a family owned vineyard planted on the site of an ancient glacial riverbed near Long Melford in Suffolk. The sandy/clay soil in the East Anglian desert as proprietor Linda Howard calls it produces quality grapes high in natural sugars and acids, that lend themselves particularly well to both sparkling and dry, aromatic still wines.

The Howards initially bought an established vineyard which is now 35 years old. The Giffords Hall label was officially launched in 2009 with a Rosé and a Bacchus still wine. Since 2020, Linda has managed the vineyard and winery with her daughter Ellie and son Harry together with a small team. 

In the bottle and glass, this rosé is very pale salmon pink from a careful blend of hand-picked Madeleine Angevine and Rondo, a deep red grape. Fresh strawberries on the nose and when served at 12ºC, it reveals its true flinty character which works beautifully with smoked wild Alaskan salmon and boiled new potatoes. Long finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023 the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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Husband-and-wife team Tom and Elisha Cannon decided to be an independent negociant sourcing the finest grapes grown on the best, family-owned and run vineyards across Kent, Suffolk and Sussex. Not restricted by historic rules or traditions, Folc was born in 2019 as an English rosé to rival the best from Provence. 

Folc makes only rosé; and in this case they have blended seven varieties of grapes from Pinot Noir to Bacchus and Ortega. Where the black grapes give the wine its ripe red fruit flavours of wild strawberries, raspberries and cranberries, the white grapes work in harmony to form an ensemble with a crisp and textural long finish. It is a serious pink gastro wine that compliments pan fried salmon wrapped in bacon with steamed greens. Serve well chilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £21.99

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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The name Knightor is intriguing in itself. You can read about the history behind its brand here. Today, Knightor Winery is a boutique enterprise situated not far from the Eden Project and St Austell Brewery in Cornwall. They make premium quality, limited production English wines from grapes grown in English vineyards, and their own vines at Portscatho on the Roseland Peninsula, and Seaton on the south Cornish coast. It has also become an established Cornish wedding venue and rustic events space.

Retired IT professional Adrian Derx the owner is a down-to-earth entrepreneur. It is hard to imagine young winemaker David Brocklehurst already at the helm for twelve years and counting, creating a range of eclectic wines including a Riesling! Far more than just a vineyard with winery tours, there is also a restaurant and bar on site. and how about Sunday roast in their winery?

Its Alsatian or German style bottle, together with a distinctive cartography label really stands out. Unfined and unfiltered, so best stand the bottle upright for an hour before opening. Decant to separate its natural sediment and let the young wine open up. Dark fruits and bramble on the nose, followed by soft but well structured tannins and fresh acidity that will see this wine further develop over the next 2-3 years. A long and satisfying smoky finish that really puts Cornwall on the map for English wines. Pairs well with roast chicken or BBQ prawns. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.95

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Everyone in the UK wine trade has heard of the veteran vinegrower and wine maker Will Davenport, who began his career as a wine merchant in England in the 1980s. He then studied for a post-graduate diploma in oenology at Roseworthy College in Adelaide, South Australia. On returning to England, he worked at a vineyard in Hampshire with amazing grapes but very poor English wines no one wanted back then.

In 1991, Davenport planted his first five acres (two hectares) of vines at his parents’ apple farm in Horsmonden, Kent. He now owns 24 acres (10 hectares) across 5 plots, and fully converted to organic in 2000. Organic might sound admirable but remains a persistent challenge in the British cool climate with erratic rainfall patterns and humidity, making the vines prone to diseases. 

Firmly believing in the potential of great fruit from healthy vines, instead of using chemicals in the vineyard and winery, Davenport has been consistently creating both whites and reds with a depth of character. His wines inspired former music producer Adrian Pike to work as a winemaker under Will, before setting up his Westwell label. Other notable ex-apprentices include Peter Morgan (ex Nyetimber), Ben Walgate (ex Tillingham), and Ben Witchell (Flint in Norfolk). 

This Pinot Noir is sourced from the 5-acre organic Redmoors vineyard planted in 2016. Whole berries were fermented with natural yeasts, matured in oak for 18 months and bottled without filtration before release a further 20 months on. It is light in style comparable to a refined German Spätburgunder rather than the more intense Pinot Noir from Central Ortago, New Zealand or Oregon in the USA. Aromatic with complex red fruit and balanced acidity. 

Only 260 bottles were made.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £24.20

The Best English Sparkling Wine

The Best English Sparkling Wine the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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For anyone who is already familiar with English wine, chances are they tasted a sparkling at some point. The international success of English sparkling wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, when in the 1990s producers realised respectable bubblies could be made in the traditional method just like champagne, with the three classic grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in chalky soil across southeast England. 

That momentum was further confirmed in 2015 when Tattinger, one of the most respectable Champagne houses acquired land just outside Faversham in Kent. Planting of vines took place in May 2017, followed by Champagne Pommery launching its first English sparkling wine, made in partnership with Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. 

Over the last five years, UK production has been consistently ⅔ sparkling and ⅓ still, with 80% of plantings coming from Champagne varietals. To put in context, in the UK we produce 12 million bottles a year, Dom Perignon alone produces roughly 5 million, and it is this scarcity that contributes to the high price point of English wine. 

The question is: could the finest English sparkling match the quality and prestige of Champagne? 

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

‘Nyetimber is possibly the most famous of all the English sparkling wine producers, largely because of the reputation they built up on the first wines they made in the early 1990s. These were the first bottles that made people realise that English sparkling wine wasn’t just good: it could be world class.’ Dr Jamie Goode 

The Nyetimber effect actually traces back to an anglophile couple from Chicago, Sandy and Stuart Moss who knew little about winemaking. In the 1980s, they spotted a gap in quality sparkling wine. After investing in a hugely professional operation with premium style exclusivity as focus, their first wine made from Chardonnay planted in 1988 and made in 1992, won best sparkling wine in England. Their second, a blend of all three classic grapes from 1993, won best non-champagne sparkling wine in the world at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in 1998. The couple returned to the US in 2001, and Nyetimber has since had two changes in ownership and management. 

Under the stewardship of Eric Heerema, Cherie Spriggs at Nyetimber was the first non-Champenois and woman winemaker to win the prestigious ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ award at the International Wine Challenge 2018. Hence, the Nyetimber range has become a benchmark for English sparkling the world over.  

Nowadays, Nyetimber owns more vines than most of the major label Champagne houses. They are able to source vastly contrasting parcels of fruit in producing as many as 115 batches of base wine across their three county holdings. This advantage enables multi-vintage blending to create a consistent ‘house style’, which is common practice for the established Champagne houses across the Channel.

The Classic Cuveé is the flagship multi-vintage blend with mostly Chardonnay, followed by Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If you want to know the precise details, look at the back label and you will find a very long number in the bottom left corner. On its website, you could submit that to reveal a precise chronology of each bottle, detailing the important moments of bottling, riddling and disgorging.

With a bouquet of baked apples and toasted brioche, it has balanced acidity with a creamy mouthful and lemon pastry that outshines many non-vintage (NV) Champagne at a similar price point. When stored correctly (on its side, in darkness away from direct light and heat), most NV sparkling wine should continue to evolve with complexity and intensity. It pairs effortlessly with smoked salmon, sushi, oysters, scallops and even asparagus. Serve well chilled. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: On offer at £29.00, down from £42 till 25/06/2024.

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

It is no coincidence we are recommending two Nyetimber; for the above is a totally different experience. Made with 100% Chardonnay, it’s off dry and yet refreshing. The very fine bubbles offer an inviting biscuity nose followed by lemon zest on the palate. Try it with fruit tarts, custard tarts and Pasteis de nata, Crème Brûlée or strong blue cheeses. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42.99 or £29.99 Mix Six 

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

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Busi Jacobsohn is a modern fairy tale where Swedish-born Douglas Jacobsohn and his Italian-born wife Susanna Busi fell in love with Blackdorn Farm in Eridge. Across their five hectares, they planted an equal split of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, leaving 20% to Pinot Meunier.

Douglas spent most of his career in the marine insurance business. That perhaps explains his foresight in future-proofing by installing a drainage system beneath their vineyard, helping rainwater run off and letting their prized grapes ripen over the naturally heat-retaining sandstone. 

With the ethos of grower champagnes, they only produce single estate vintage wines not relying on blending to create a house style. 

The 2018 Blanc de Noirs is made with handpicked Pinot Noir (78%) and Pinot Meunier (22%). It is effervescent with balanced red apple acidity and mild toast on the palate. Bone dry with medium finish which is expected to further develop over 3-5 years. Pairs well with creamy crab pasta and Comté; but not Gorgonzola as Susanna advised; and she was absolutely right.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £48.00

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent the best wines for english wine week 2024 the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Everything about Gusbourne is premium. Its name is associated with John de Goosebourne’s Appledore estate first mentioned in 1410. South African orthopaedic surgeon Andrew Weeber bought this site in 2003, with their first release in 2010. Nowadays, the company is listed on the Alternative Investment Market (AIM), with Lord Ashcroft as the main shareholder of the Gusbourne Estate. The vines now spread across 60 hectares (150 acres) at Appledore with the winery, and a further 30 hectares (75 acres) in West Sussex near Greenwood.

Gusbourne only produces vintage still and sparkling wines; with no intention of blending. Long lees ageing is the norm that results in softened acidity with added complexity. Their range of sparkling wine is impressive in quality whose unique characters come alive when you have a food pairing seasonal lunch on site. Or you could have a relaxed picnic among the vines.

Our last showcase of the dozen is truly a special occasion gem. First tasted when Laura Rhys offered at the 2022 WineGB tasting, it was once sipped, forever smitten.

63% Chardonnay and 37% Pinot Noir went into this late disgorged marvel. Light gold in colour with a fine mousse and aromas of citrus peel, alongside brioche and biscuit notes. Due to extended lees ageing, the palate is creamy and complex with flavours of buttered toast and delicate spice leading to a long, intense and unforgettable finish. Perfect with roast chicken, seared tuna steaks or rich vegetarian moussaka. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £105.00

The Future of English Wine

The quality of English sparkling wine (ESW) is firmly established against their Champagne counterparts. If you were to taste blind, you might surprise yourself to find your favourite pick turn out to be an ESW. However, with the average spend on a bottle of wine being under £7 in the UK, it is highly unlikely that a typical household sees an ESW as part of essential weekly shopping. That takes us to the emerging and ever improving still wines; which form the first two-thirds of this special English Wine Week edition. 

Production volume is minuscule by global standards with export markets still in their infancy. With high labour and production costs, and escalating prime land prices, English wine will never be able to compete with Argentina, Chile or South Africa on price alone. Output has to rise substantially, which again depends on the vintage. In the long run, entry level English still wines might need to find a price point below £15 to entice consumers to give them a try; against the infinite choices from around the world between £8-£15 on the shelves.

Many producers quietly celebrate global warming and climate change as warmer temperatures help their grapes ripen sufficiently to make quality still wines. According to a new report by the World Weather Attrition Group, Britain will increasingly see monsoon-like rains over the next decade, as well as more frequent hail storms and even “mini tornadoes”. UK regions with the highest average temperatures, particularly those in southern and central England, are likely to see the worst storms. These cast an omen for a burgeoning industry about to enter its next critical growth phase. Suddenly, looking after the soil and vines is no longer enough when dealing with climate chaos. Big Data sharing should help collective resilience through mitigation and adaptation strategies. 

Does anyone know the role of AI in viticulture and winemaking in our brave new world of the unknown?

Great Books to Read About English Wine

Vines in a Cold Climate: The People Behind the English Wine Revolution by Henry Jeffreys

Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year 2024. When was the last time you read a page-turner on wine? This is it. Opinionated but witty. Thoroughly researched without being academic. It is like a friend who’s had too much to drink telling you who’s who and done what. 

The Vineyards of Britain: Cellar Door Adventures with the Best of Britain’s Wines by Ed Dallimore

How did Ed do it? Lost count of how many vineyards are actually featured in this compendium with stunning imagery, lucid and personable writing reflecting thorough research and his empathy with the characters behind the wine labels.

By Will Wong

will wong drinklusive mentee the three drinkers

The ABC’s of Chardonnay

 
the abc's of chardonnay the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Which of the following best describes you?

  1. Always bring a Chardonnay.

  2. Anything but Chardonnay.

  3. Albariño, Bacchus or Chenin Blanc.

  4. Assyrtiko Baby.

Have you met anyone who said they hate Chardonnay but love Chablis and Champagne? Well, Chablis is 100% Chardonnay and Champagne except Blanc de Noirs is likely to be a blend containing Chardonnay. Love it or hate it, Chardonnay is everywhere on wine shelves. It is a versatile grape that grows in cool, moderate and warm climates. With different winemaking techniques, Chardonnay comes in a broad range of dry white wines, from high-volume brands to premium wines that can age for decades when stored correctly.

Besides Chablis further north, Burgundy from north to south between Dijon and Lyon in eastern France is where Chardonnay began. In fact, the grape takes its name from the village Chardonnay in the Mâcon region; except you won’t see Chardonnay on the labels of Burgundian whites. Then there is the rest of the world from America (California, Oregon and Washington State) to England, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Some wine enthusiasts even name their daughters Chardonnay. Chenin or Cabernet have a long way to go in naming rights.

These used to be the principal versions of Chardonnay: the limestone, flinty and steely Chablis, and those judiciously oaked but still restrained Bourgogne whites; to the big, buttery and oak in your nose New World contestants primarily from Australia and California in the 1980s. Fashion comes and goes. If anything, there seems to be a convergence between styles. Many Australian and Californian Chardonnay now gravitate towards the Burgundian style. Clare Valley Chardonnay in South Australia mimic Burgundy in everything, except for their different climate and terroir. 

With differences in terroir, climate and winemaking styles, let’s take a wine trip around the world from Chile to Australia, then Burgundy, California, New Zealand and finish our Chardonnay expedition in South Africa.

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Chilean Chardonnay 2022

the abc's of chardonnay the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Founded in 1880, Santa Rita Estate's vineyards in the Casablanca Valley region are 500 metres above sea level close to the Pacific coast, with cooling sea breezes and morning fogs helping Chardonnay grapes to ripen slowly. This microclimate results in high acidity with intense fruit and flavours, all essential to make good wine.

This Chardonnay charms with a citrusy and tropical fruits nose, think bananas and even a hint of almonds. It’s medium-bodied with fresh acidity well balanced with spicy oak. Try it with pan-fried fish or creamy pasta dishes. Really good value for money.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £8.50 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 28th May)

Howard Park Margaret River 2022 Miamup Chardonnay

the abc's of chardonnay the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Located 300km south of Perth in Western Australia, set between the tranquil waters of Geographe Bay and the rugged Cape Leeuwin, you will find Margaret River, one of the world's premium and most isolated winemaking regions. With ocean on three sides, Margaret River is blessed with a Mediterranean climate of warm days and warm/cool nights. Cooling sea breezes from the southern Indian Ocean help to moderate temperatures and slow ripening; giving lower yield but premium quality grapes.

Howard Park has been a pioneering West Australian winery since 1986, deploying multisite sourcing to create a consistent style across its product range. Beyond its green apples and mineral palate, the use of fine grain French oak created a layered, flavoursome and complex wine with a touch of spice, and creaminess. It can be cellared for 2-3 years, and is best served as a gastro wine with poached chicken, roast pork or even pickled vegetables and rice noodles, topped with crispy XO prawns. Perfect for summer evenings.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £13.99 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 4th June)

Bread & Butter Chardonnay 2021, Napa Valley, California USA

the abc's of chardonnay Bread and Butter the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

The vines are planted in deep, moist soils in the northern interior of California, where the climate is cooler due to the influence from the Sacramento delta.

It tastes exactly what it says on the label: Big Buttery or Big Bad Boy depending on your affection for or aversion to new oak. After partial malo-lactic conversion, a process that gives the wine its buttery character while retaining good acidity, it is then aged for 5 months using French and American oak.

Lush tropical fruits, pineapple and coconut with upfront toasted brioche from start to finish. Whilst it could overpower seafood or delicate white fish, it might work with Cantonese style wok-fried lobster, tarragon chicken or chargrilled pork chops. It needs big flavour food to complement the distinctive big personality. Not for the faint-hearted! However, many modern Californian Chardonnay have much more restrained oak and do not taste like this.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £13.50 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 28th May)

Louis Jadot Mâcon-Azé 2022, Beaune, France

the abc's of chardonnay Louis Jadot Macon Aze the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

The only Burgundy in our world tour selection. Established in 1859, Maison Louis Jadot now owns over 60 hectares of vineyard, many of them premier and grand cru, and in Jacques Lardière has one of the most respected winemakers working today. Lardière famously said: ‘To some extent we can impose style on a wine in the cellar, but we can’t impose character, and we can’t impose quality either. They come with the vine and terroir.’

The Chardonnay used here is grown around the tiny village of Azé, northwest of Mâcon in southern Burgundy. It is also the only Chardonnay here with no oak used, letting the dry, crisp and flinty character with pear and green apple speak for its terroir. It is medium-bodied with an intense long finish.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £15.99 (Buy 6 and save 25% discount available until 4th June)

Forrest Wines, “Tatty Bogler” 2020 Chardonnay, Waitaki Valley, North Otago, New Zealand

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Otago’s early Scottish settlers used scarecrows or ‘tattyboglers’ as they were called, to protect their precious crops from the hungry and unfamiliar New Zealand birdlife.

Central Otago on the South Island of New Zealand is renowned for premium Pinot Noir grapes. This Chardonnay produced in Waitaki Valley, a smaller wine region cocooned by mountains is the southern-hemisphere take on Chablis.

This is fermented in French oak and has explosive aromas of lychee, pastry and nutty brioche. When you take the first sip, it’s a real surprise with refined citrus and quince flavours leading into a much leaner and chalky finish. Try it with poultry, pork, meaty white fish or creamy cheese.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Find here: £19.99

Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 2018, Robertson, South Africa

the abc's of chardonnay Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Multi-award winning ‘Méthode Cap Classique’ (made in the Traditional Method like Champagne) sparkling wine crafted from hand selected Chardonnay on the Graham Beck Robertson estate in Western Cape with its naturally limestone-rich soils. Only the highest quality juice (tête de cuvée) was selected for fermentation.

It spends 48 months on lees before disgorgement and bottling. Its lemon-lime citrus freshness is underlaid with biscuity richness. Bubbles that tinkle with elegance and finesse. These wines have even been sipped by the likes of the late Nelson Mandela and President Barack Obama!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £16.99

If you love Chardonnay, we hope to have introduced you to some you have not tried. If you hate Chardonnay, why not give the unoaked Burgundy or South African sparkling Blanc de Blancs a chance? The bottle looks classy at any dinner party, and is budget friendly without compromising on quality. Cheers!

By Will Wong

will wong drinklusive mentee the three drinkers
 

Which Wine Should I Drink Now and What Can I Keep?

which wine should i drink now and what can i keep? the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

So many wines from around the world across price points - how do you pick your bottle or two, or even mix 3-6 with the seasonal and perpetual 25% off deals from supermarkets and High Street retailers? Do you buy wines weekly or keep some away for special occasions? With new wines appearing online and on the shelves all the time, how do you judge price vs quality and which wines are worth keeping? 

For the UK retail market, the average spend on a bottle of wine is between £5 - £6.99. Say on a bottle of £6 wine, only 89p is attributed to the wine itself after excise duty, VAT, packaging, logistics and retail margin. Whilst on a £10 and £20 bottle before discounting, the actual value for the wine itself rises to £2.64 and £6.98 respectively. In other words, you get more wine for your money as you spend more per bottle. That does not mean a £20 bottle of wine is necessarily three times ‘better value for money’ than a £10 one though!

There is also a myth that wines improve over time. Yes and no. Red, white and sparkling wines all have different lifespans. As a ballpark, if you paid under £12 (before discounting) for a bottle of wine, perhaps it is not worth extended keeping. There are always exceptions.

Climate change and market conditions (global wine production in 2023 dropped by 10% from the previous year) add pressure on winemakers and producers to release wines for early consumption. Not many of us have the storage space at home for a cellar, or the intention to invest in the services of commercial storage specialists. It is therefore not surprising to see one UK leading supermarket’s own brand range with ‘Storage: It is recommended that this wine be consumed within 1 year of purchase.’ on the back label. Having said all that, some ‘fine’ or even everyday wines will reward us through patience, and a few common sense storage criteria (see below).

The eight wines below are for illustrative purposes, across generic categories and vintages. Accepting each wine is unique, we hope to inspire you through some general principles, in getting the most enjoyment from each bottle now and well into the future.

which wine should i drink now and what can i keep? the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Rosé 

Most pink wines such as this Miraval Côtes de Provence are meant to be drunk young and fresh. Only keep your rosé in the fridge when ready to open. If stored correctly (see below), this could easily retain its crisp freshness for 2-3 years after purchase. Long gone is the perception that rosé is something you sip by the pool on holiday or only in the summer. Depending on individual wines, some rosé pair well with spicy food and the off-dry varieties stand up to fiery chilli. 

Non-Vintage (NV) Champagne or Sparkling Wines

As a very general rule, drink Prosecco within a year of purchase. On the other hand, NV champagne (those without a year on the label) and sparkling wines such as the Balfour Hush Heath Estate Leslie’s Reserve made in the traditional method with secondary in-bottle fermentation deliver more complex flavours and greater intensity, which may well develop further over 1-5 years if stored properly.

Cava made in the traditional method mostly in Catalunya, when unopened and stored properly, can generally last 1-2 years past the expiration date stated on the label. 

Reds to drink now

e.g. Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, Chianti, Rioja Crianza or other Tempranillo-based wines, and most wines under £12.

Much depends on the grape (inherent acidity and level of tannins in the skin) and also winemaking style. In general, most reds keep longer than still whites due to the tannins (think the slightly bitter and leathery feel from a cup of strong black tea). Even the traditional tannic Bordeaux and Burgundy fine reds are now more approachable when opened relatively young (e.g. vintages 2017/18). 

Rioja (mostly Tempranillo) is a popular red from Spain. It has four ageing categories by law:

  • Joven: typically young and fruity, with no minimum ageing requirements and are typically released in the year following the vintage (the year in which the grapes were harvested);

  • Crianza: must be aged in oak barrels prior to release. These wines develop additional flavours such as vanilla, smoke and coconut;

  • Reserva: such as the above M&S No.21 Lomas del Marques 2015, must be aged for extended periods of time before release, both in oak barrels and in-bottle. The flavours are usually more pronounced and complex than a Crianza. The M&S Reserva 2015 was released in 2021, with a drinking window to 2025; so it is probably peaking now;

  • Gran Reserva: subject to the highest minimum ageing requirements and are reflected in their higher prices.

Due to the above ageing requirements, mature Spanish reds are often great value for money when released in the UK, if you prefer wines with greater depth and texture without having to wait another 5-10 years!

Below, we will show you a fine red that is worth keeping.

Whites to drink now

e.g. Pinot Grigio, Viognier / Condrieu, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, Vinho Verde, Albariño and other Galician whites; and most whites under £12.

In recent years, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough have become the Darling Buds of May, or anytime anywhere. When young, they have that zesty acidity, grassy and asparagus nose with a lemony and sometimes flinty palate. It is rarely marketed as an age-worthy white, unlike the fine whites (chardonnay) from Burgundy such as Chablis Grand Cru or Puligny-Montrachet. 

The above Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2022 is regarded as one of the finest from Marlborough with a premium price tag. It is expected to keep up to five years. Nothing is absolute for wine. Far from being over the hill, a bottle of Yealands Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019 from Awatere Valley, Marlborough at less than half the price of the Cloudy Bay was still robust with fresh acidity and a long mineral finish when opened in April 2024. 

We now turn our attention to four categories of wine you might like to keep, if you could resist the temptation.

which wine should i drink now and what can i keep? the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

Fine Reds

e.g. most above £12 - Pinot Noir/Red Burgundy, Sangiovese such as Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, Grenache/Garnacha, southern Rhône reds such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Shiraz/Syrah and northern Rhône reds such as Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, Merlot - Right-Bank Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon - Left-Bank Bordeaux, and Nebbiolo - Barolo & Barbaresco. 

The Penfolds Max’s Shiraz 2020 from Adelaide Hills, South Australia was released in 2022; retaining black fruit concentration with high acidity and firm tannins at a whopping 14.5% ABV. These elements together provide the in-bottle conditions to help the tannins soften over time, and develop further complexity till 2031. Of course you can open and drink it now, and it is probably more accessible than its Northern Rhône counterparts (Côte-Rôtie & Hermitage). Given Penfolds’ suggested drinking window, this fine Shiraz is still a baby that needs time to calm down. 

Fine Whites

e.g. most above £12 - Rhône whites such as Hermitage Blanc, Chablis, Chardonnay, white Burgundy, Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Riesling. 

Less famous than Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, and not the most widely grown; Riesling is often hailed as the noble grape by wine professionals, but not consumers who often associate it with German sweet wines with low alcohol. Occasional indecipherable labels in only German do not help either. 

Unlike Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling is renowned for its capacity to develop for years, even decades in bottle. As an aromatic grape varietal, Riesling does not need high alcohol to be made into a variety of wines from dry to off-dry, medium and sweet, and from light to full in body

Yet, if you were to taste a fruity and light Riesling from Mosel, Germany, usually between 8-10% ABV, side by side with a bone dry version at 13% ABV from the Clare or Eden Valley in South Australia, they could not be more different. Other fine Rieslings are also produced in Alsace and Austria; such as the Rabl Schenkenbichl Riesling Reserve 2018 (13% ABV) drinking to 2026 at least.

Vintage Champagne or Sparkling Wines

If you look closely at the above Hattingley Blanc de Blancs 2014 from Hampshire England, it clearly states ‘Traditional Method Brut’ Vintage 2014. In exceptional years, a portion of the best grapes are used to create a Vintage Champagne or Sparkling Wine. ‘Brut’ usually denotes dry due to the high acidity and lively dissolved bubbles in the wine. 

2014 was an exceptional year for some of the finest parcels of Hampshire Chardonnay that were used in creating this Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay). 13% of the wine was fermented in old oak barrels to add a creamy and toasty texture to the palate. Ageing on lees for over five years added further complexity. It was only disgorged in March 2020 and released in 2021. This costly and laborious winemaking method produces fine sparkling wine in small quantities commanding very high prices. 

High quality vintage champagne or sparkling wines should keep for 2-10 years after release, not the vintage year.

Sweet Wines

There are different styles of sweet wines such as the Canadian Icewine and German Eiswein made with frozen grapes. Other famous varieties such as Sauternes and the Hungarian Tokaji Aszú are made from ripe grapes affected by Botrytis (Noble Rot), a fungus that causes the water in the grapes to evaporate, resulting in high concentration of acids, sugars and flavours which are essential to produce premium sweet wines. 

This Disznókõ Tokaji Aszú 2017 is made mainly from Furmint, an indigenous Hungarian grape with natural high acidity very susceptible to botrytis. Tokaji Aszú spends a significant time ageing in oak, giving a balance of intense stone fruits (apricots), citrus fruits with vanilla and smoke, and aromas of dried fruit, caramel and nuts. The sweetness and full-body are balanced by high acidity with a long and intense finish. It is a treat with blue cheese, desserts, foie gras or on its own. The 2017 vintage will continue to develop complex flavours for up to 20 years in the bottle.

How should I store my wines?

Wine is a fragile living thing. Temperature fluctuations and strong direct light are combo killers; so a kitchen wine rack is definitely out. They need a consistent temperature, ideally around 13ºC but anywhere between 10-20ºC is acceptable; so avoid proximity to fireplaces or central heating radiators. 

Avoid placing your wines, especially sparkling wines near direct natural or artificial light.

With cork closure, it’s best to store the bottles on their side in a cool, dry and dark place. Screwcaps can be placed upright.

How long should I keep my wines?

which wine should i drink now and what can i keep? the three drinkers

Image credit: Will Wong

As you may have probably realised by now, this is a very difficult question besides the above general guidelines. With fine wines, it might be worth buying 3-12 wines of the same vintage if you have the space, patience and budget to open one periodically. This is a luxury and pleasure in being able to chart your favourite wine’s journey in your home.

Fortunately, help is at hand via a little annual wine bible: Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book (Ed. Margaret Rand) published since 1977. Besides the quick vintage charts as seen above, this little gem lists leading producers from Austria to Uruguay; with special emphasis on Bordeaux producers’ best vintages and their readiness to drink. It is indispensable as an up-to-date succinct reference source.

Last but not least, wines are to be drunk. More and more wines are now made to be consumed sooner rather than later. Having the patience and space to store wines properly is likely to be rewarded. But as Margaret Rand put it, some of these laid down wines might outlive you. It depends on how much you like your heirs.

By Will Wong

will wong drinklusive the three drinkers