The Best British Summer Wine and Cheese Pairings

Food and Drink in Britain have been intrinsically connected for over two thousand years since the Romans turned cheesemaking into an industry to complement their belief that wine was a daily necessity. Historically it’s become widely accepted that cheese and wine go together as one of the ‘Greatest Of All Time’ (G.O.A.T) food and drink pairings. 

SUMMER LOVING 

Last month the UK celebrated National Cheese & Wine Day. Yes, we love the combination so much, that we have a national day for it - in summer. Traditionally the average Brit racks up the lion’s share of their annual cheese and wine consumption around Christmastime. Most often when we shop for cheese in December we’ll pick out a selection of familiar favourites including French soft cheeses and a generic fuller-bodied red wine to go with it. Or if we feel lazy we’ll opt for a cheese selection pack from the supermarket for our Christmas table. Forget for a moment your winter-time ‘Port and Stilton’ mindset and let’s take this duo al fresco for summer. Think picnics, opulent seaside snacking and sipping, proms in the park, music or food festivals or any other outdoor grown-up gathering with or without kids around. 

For this article I connected with DRINKLUSIVE mentor, Cheese and Wine Connoisseur Jessica Summer from mouseandgrape.com. Mouse & Grape has been featured in top publications, on BBC Saturday Kitchen and BBC Radio London thanks to Jessica’s ability to demystify wine and cheese pairings with her engaging storytelling. Beyond her media presence, she collaborates with brands and serves as a judge in cheese and wine competitions. I asked her: 

“What are some of the best British wines to drink with cheese for a summer picnic?”  

In this article, I share five of Jessica’s pairing recommendations from different regions of the UK and add some additional suggestions to include in your picnic hamper. Jessica’s rule of thumb when it comes to British cheese and wine pairing is “what grows together goes together”.

It seems, contrary to common belief, red wine does not always make the best companion for cheese. The UK boasts such a wealth of artisan cheeses (750 different varieties compared to France’s 400) we should perhaps refrain from reaching for something French de rigueur, and instead see our nation’s craftsmanship as an opportunity to Buy British, try new varieties and support our cheesemaker’s businesses in the process. If travelling in the UK this summer, do make sure to taste the local cheeses and wines whilst you’re away too. According to Jessica, the unique terroir of each region is expressed in their cheese and wine, weaving together a fascinating story of their origin. Terroir refers to how the environment, including soil, climate, and other natural factors, influences the taste and characteristics of cheese and wine. It gives them a distinct sense of place and identity. 

The British wine scene is experiencing a remarkable surge in popularity, particularly in the realm of sparkling wines. “An astonishing 79% of medals awarded to English wine are granted to sparkling wines. A remarkable 30 British Vineyards have been recognised and celebrated in recent years for their contributions to the world of wine. In a similar vein, British cheeses have been causing quite a stir on the international stage with an impressive tally of awards at the World Cheese Awards.”

HAMPSHIRE 

Hampshire’s temperate maritime climate and diverse soils create favourable growing conditions for Chardonnay and Pinot grape varieties allowing for several sparkling wines to be produced on various vineyard estates across the county.

The region’s agricultural traditions and local expertise combine with the nutrient-rich and diverse Hampshire pastures where dairy cows graze and produce exceptional milk for cheesemaking. 

Jessica’s Top Hampshire Selection: 

Hampshire Cheese Co Winslade and Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV 

Winslade is a cross between a Vacherin and Camembert encircled by a spruce strip to impart a delicate woody aroma. The cheese is matured and sold when it’s fully ripe, rich, silky smooth and gooey. Its flavour is full, fruity and complex but not overpowering. It has a floral earthiness. 

Find here: £9.50 (230g)

Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV is a heavenly, multi-award-winning sparkling wine produced exclusively on the Hambledon estate on the southeast-facing chalk slopes of Windmill Down in the South Downs National Park. It has quintessential British aromatic blossom characteristics and tasting will elegantly unfold to reveal layers of floral and stone fruit aromas. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £26.99

If picnicking, remember to pack a mini chopping board and paring knife in your hamper before you set out because we reckon this duo will be best served with freshly cut wedges of Granny Smith apple to counterpoint the creamy Winslade. Charcuterie and cornichons also recommended. 

SOMERSET

Somerset’s clay, limestone and loam soil provide diverse conditions for several grape varieties to thrive in the region’s climate which allows for a wider range of flavour profiles of wine. Vineyards mainly focus on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier.

Nestled in the heart of the Westcountry are lush pastures and world-renowned expertise in cheesemaking that yields high-quality cheese to reflect the unique flavours of the local terroir. Cheddar, of course, takes its name from the village in Somerset of the same name where it originated, but as cheddar cheese has no Protected Designation of Origin it can be produced all over the world.

Why not try something different to Cheddar, from the same terroir?

Jessica’s Somerset Pairing Recommendation: 

White Lake Dairy Driftwood

Driftwood is a beautifully creamy and soft-textured cheese made from unpasteurised goat’s milk. It’s an ash-coated, young, fresh and zesty cheese with a pleasing saltiness which perfectly complements the elegant and aromatic nose of Wraxall’s Bacchus wine, also produced in Shepton Mallett.

Find here: £12.50 (215g)

Wraxall Vineyard Bacchus Reserve

Delicate and floral with flavours of ripe orchard fruits and spring blossom, it has a lovely richness from 20%-barrel fermentation in neutral oak. This still white wine is supported by a bright mineral core and a long, persistent finish which beautifully accentuates the citrusy notes in the cheese, while the wine’s fruity qualities shine, creating a delightful symphony of flavours. This pairing is delicious with a little dollop of chilli jam.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £22

NORFOLK & SUFFOLK

The region’s diverse soils, ranging from sandy to loamy and clay, accommodate various grape varieties, each adding distinct characteristics to the wines. Combined with the skill of local cheesemakers, this fertile landscape yields a variety of top-notch cheeses that authentically reflect the region’s flavours imparted by its soil and vegetation. 

Jessica’s Top Norfolk/Suffolk Combination: 

Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod

Fen Farm’s Baron Bigod is a stunning brie-style cheese, with a rich, full, earthy flavour and a lingering finish. It’s made by Jonny Crickmore from the milk of his own herd of Montbeliarde cows in Suffolk. 

Find here: £9.50 (250g)

2022 Flint Vineyard Charmat Rosé

Flint’s iconic Charmat Rosé blends the grapes of England (11 varieties matched to Flint’s Norfolk terroir) with the production method of Prosecco making it the perfect sparkling rosé aperitif for a summer evening. Beautiful pink hues and lifted fruit aromas, the 2022 vintage exudes the essence of Summer Fruit Pudding and has a satisfyingly thirst-quenching finish to complement the creaminess of the cheese. The earthy flavour contrasts with the fruity cheese and brings out the wine’s strawberry and cream flavours. For this reason, as well as your cheese and local breads, you might as well include some fresh juicy strawberries and grapes in your hamper too.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £24.75

OXFORDSHIRE & BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire have diverse soil types, including limestone-rich soils in some areas, which offer excellent drainage for vineyards. Other parts have clay and loamy soils, suitable for different grape varieties. 

Both regions experience a temperate climate with moderate summers and mild winters, creating favourable conditions for grape cultivation and fertile pastures for grazing. 

Jessica’s Top Oxfordshire/Buckinghamshire combination:

Nettlebed Creamery Bix

Though technically not from the same county, the vineyard and farmhouse dairy are just 30 minutes apart (across the boundary) so this irresistible combination simply couldn’t be overlooked. Made in Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, Nettlebed Creamery’s Bix, is a soft cheese with a luxurious, evolving texture from crème fraiche to clotted cream, ultimately transforming into a creamy, rich delight.

Find here: £5.95 (100g)

Harrow & Hope Blanc de Noirs 2018

It pairs perfectly with the superb brioche and berry-fresh English fizz from Henry Laithwaite’s trophy-winning Harrow & Hope vineyard in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. This ensemble embodies all the winning flavour elements of the classic British strawberries and cream – a truly quintessential English experience!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42

DEVON

The region’s milder winters and warmer summers allow for a longer grape-growing season, resulting in wines with distinctive regional characteristics. With a mix of sandy and clay soils, South Devon cultivates various grape varieties, while its nutrient-rich pastures support high-quality milk for cheese-making. The skilled cheesemakers and fertile landscapes contribute to a variety of high-quality cheeses, reflecting the terroir’s influence and establishing Devon’s reputation as a notable destination for wine and cheese enthusiasts seeking distinctive and outstanding products. 

Jessica’s Top Devon Combination:

Sharpham Dart Valley Reserve

Set in a south-facing bowl and overlooking the River Dart, Sandridge Barton, the home of Sharpham wine, produces outstanding English wines just 9 miles away from Sharpham Dairy. Their ripe and fruit-driven white wine showcases stone fruit notes of white peach, while the rounded palate features sweet apricot and subtle spice.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £16.49

Sharpham Ticklemore Goat

Pair it with Ticklemore Goat, a stark white cheese with a delicate texture and mellow, herbaceous flavour. This perfect pairing elevates the creamy character of the cheese and enhances the peach flavours in the wine, making it an ideal choice for a delightful summer indulgence.

Find here: £6.50 (220g)

So there you have it. Five new cheeses to try matched with a quality English wine from a vineyard of the same region. By embracing our rich culinary heritage and exploring the unique terroir of each region, we can truly appreciate the magic that happens when cheese and wine come together. So, the next time you plan a cheese and wine gathering, whether in or outdoors (and whatever the season) remember to follow Jessica Summers’ “what goes together grows together” rule.

And don’t just default to buying French wines and cheeses, remember to explore the many award-winning hidden gems of Britain. If you still wish to retain a little French in your life, try spending more of your disposable income on good quality food like the French do, and eat cheese for breakfast like they do on the continent. It’s healthy, it fills you up and has loads of nutrition. Yes, it has fat, but we all need a bit of that. And next time the occasion arises to buy a special gift for a cheese lover or you just want to indulge yourself, check out The Ultimate Rosé Cheese Hamper from Mouse & Grape for £75. There’s an option to add blue cheese to your order, as well as truffle honey and a corkscrew. Ooh la la. What’s not to love about that?

By Robbie Jerram

12 of the Best Wines for English Wine Week 2024

Image credit: Will Wong

Mention English wine and you may get three types of responses. Preaching to the converted, still an overall minority; or those who remember trying a few sparklers, usually from the big and established producers. The rest didn’t even know wines are made in England, or believe they are generally overpriced and not very good. Does that resonate with your experience?

In fact, there are now almost a thousand vineyards scattered across England alone, including over 200 commercial wineries. The paradox of climate change and global warming has benefited English vineyards in general. In 2022, total production was up by 36% year-on-year. 2023 saw a bumper harvest in which the UK experienced higher-than-ever yields and bunch numbers due to the volume of rain throughout the growing season. So, the only way is up, right?

What is the English Wine Week?

Image credit: Will Wong

The first English Wine Week (EWW) was launched in 2006 when Laura Rhys MS was a sommelier struggling to convince consumers of the merits of English sparkling. Now, Rhys, a brand ambassador for Gusbourne Estate, can legitimately pitch the Fifty-One Degrees North, Gusbourne’s prestige cuvée (and the most expensive English wine on the UK market at £195), against the likes of Dom Perignon. In just under three decades, the English wine scene has progressed by leaps and bounds. 

In 2024, EWW officially runs from Saturday 15th to Sunday 23rd June. Producers and vineyards across the land, including the four urban wineries in London are throwing parties and special popup events. It is the perfect opportunity to spend your holidays and weekends with a stay or trip to your local vineyard, celebrating at a wine festival, and then taking home a couple of bottles to share your experience with friends. The WineGB website has a dedicated page on how to get the most out of EWW 2024.

To mark this special occasion, this bumper edition takes you on a tasting tour with twelve very different wines from Suffolk to the Crouch Valley in Essex (one of the most sought after vine-growing spots), then through Kent and Sussex to Dorset and finally weather-permitting tropical Cornwall. You might see a few familiar and favourite labels, and be surprised by others. Above all, we wish to champion some lesser known but worthy contenders on the ever expanding English wine stage; not just at home but extending far and wide to the United States, Scandinavia and Japan.

The Best English White Wines

In volume terms, still wines account for around a third in total production compared with sparkling. The marginal climate and erratic weather patterns in Britain do not ensure consistent ripening conditions for grapes; at least before the 1980s. Vine-growers back then experimented with German varietals such as the white Müller-Thurgau and Reichensteiner, which had a higher chance of early ripening in cooler climates. It is also much more challenging to make decent still wines with unripe grapes and their overt acidity.

Wine writer Henry Jeffreys recalled the trailblazer Gillian Pearkes with her 1981 book ‘Vinegrowing in Britain’: while everyone else was looking to Germany for inspiration, she saw that France and specifically Champagne and Chablis could be a model for viticulture in England. As well writing on the subject, Pearkes planted her own vineyard at Yearlstone in Devon, acted as mentor to Bob Lindo at Camel Valley in Cornwall and encouraged Stuart and Sandy Moss at Nyetimber: “Find the right site and you will grow Chardonnay in England,” 

Four decades on, Chardonnay and Bacchus (covered in our previous guides) are now the most planted white grapes in England. Although they are yet to gain comparable international standings as the sparklers, quality has improved beyond imagination as producers experiment with sites and signature styles. Below are two outstanding Chardonnay and two Pinot Gris (related to Pinot Grigio) with very different characters.

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

‘The only question that matters is who’s going to buy your wine’

~ Charles Simpson

Charles and Ruth Simpson started their wine business as Domaine Saint Rose in Languedoc, southern France in 2002. By 2012, they saw the potential and moved back to England. After buying a 12 hectares / 30-acre site with lime-rich chalk soil in the North Downs in Kent, similar to the terroir in Champagne and Burgundy, Simpsons’ Wine Estate was born. Followed by their own winery in 2016, they now own three vineyard sites covering 38 hectares / 112 acres. 

Whilst most new vineyard owners opted for the sparkling clones (safer for Britain’s cool climate but needs a much longer time span before any wines are ready to be released), Ruth Simpson hatched a bet with planting some non-sparkling clones; hoping to sell still wines before their first sparkling is ready for the market. The high-quality and bumper 2018 vintage firmly established the Simpsons brand. 

This unoaked Chardonnay seems to have two personalities. Those who love the classic lush tropical fruits on its nose will be drawn instantly. Or if you are ‘anything but Chardonnay’, the greatest surprise came when paired with smoked haddock risotto. It turned flinty with a long finish like a Chablis. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.74 (25% off £16.99 till 02/07/2024)

The Only Way is Essex

Tell your wine snob friends about ‘Grapes from Essex’ and raise a few eyebrows. Crouch Valley to be precise, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. No, this is not a joke about Essex. It is no secret to most in the wine trade that many of the UK’s best-known wine producers, from the southernmost vineyards of the country and all the way up north, are buying fruit from Essex and have done so for many years. Instead of the chalky soil at Simpsons in Kent, the River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. Working with the highly respected viticulturist Duncan McNeill, the family converted 4 hectares / 11 acres of their arable land facing the River Crouch into a vineyard back in 2017. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

After harvest, the grapes are transported to Devon-based Lyme Bay Winery who has been sourcing grapes from Essex, where winemakers James Lambert and Sarah Massey produce the wine for Riverview Crouch Valley. Their debut 2020 Chardonnay received critical acclaim from critics and buyers alike. At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

With its classic and simple label showing off the now famous River Crouch, this is one of England’s finest. There is not yet any typical English Chardonnay style. It does not try to be Burgundian or Australian / Californian. Despite its pale lemon appearance in the glass, the nose is lush with restrained tropical fruits. Nothing shouty here. Hints of vanilla comes through the brief oak ageing in old French barriques. The palate has subdued stone fruit with a little smokiness which is unusual for a Chardonnay. Whichever camp of ABC you belong to, this is a serious gastro wine that calls for your attention. A match made in heaven with roast chicken as Katie suggested, or even roast pork. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon

Image credit: Will Wong

Back in the 1960s, Maurice and Ruth Ash moved with their Jersey cows from Essex on the train to the Sharpham Estate over-looking the River Dart in South Devon. Over time, they planted some trial vines on the sunny south-facing slope in front of Sharpham House. Successes were steady with the next generation of vine-growers and winemakers in the Ash's nephew, Mark Sharman and Duncan Schwab, head winemaker and now CEO, who joined the team in 1992.

Then in 2008, Sharpham were approached by the owner of Sandridge Barton Estate on the eastern riverbank for help with planting vines on the basis that Sharpham might take the grapes. The terroir and its proximity was godsend to expand Sharpham’s acreage by 120%. And finally in 2020, Sharpham built its own solar-powered, with rain and waste-water harvesting 120,000 bottle capacity two-level winery adjacent to where the majority of the fruit is sourced. That culminated in the decision to relocate and rebrand as Sandridge Barton, with a fully-fledged visitor centre and cafe since 2022. 

Only 3300 bottles were released. Unfined, unfiltered with minimal sulphur, this experimental orange wine had two-week skin contact with indigenous yeast during fermentation. It is a little like the natural wines made with amphora from Georgia. Taut acidity with firm tannins. Due to the lees in the bottle, expect cloudiness so best stand the bottle upright for at least an hour before opening. Decant and serve at room temperature with Carpaccio. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 10.5%
Find here: £21.00

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Oast – a kiln for drying hops. Brook – a small natural stream.

Oastbrook is located on a beautiful farm by the banks of the River Rother, only a stone’s throw from Bodiam Castle in East Sussex. It had been owned by Guinness for the farming of hops as the Oast houses themselves were used for drying the hops. 

The wine estate is the brainchild of husband Nick and wife America Brewer who grew up in the Bahia region of Brazil. Nick used to work in finance internationally but retrained at Plumpton College as a winemaker. America was top of her year in plant biology on her BSc in viticulture and oenology at Plumpton. She planted her first vines at Oastbrook only in 2017. They tell their own story here.

Nick described their wines as America’s sunshine and charismatic personality in bottles. The couple passionately believe in sustainable ecology starting with soil health. “Learn from the grapes and don’t copy others” is their shared motto. With the range of activities and amenities on site, their dedication to the land, produce and community with business acumen is evident. 

Only 2250 bottles of the 2023 Pinot Gris were released. Its nose could easily fool you as a Riesling with hints of petrol. A full-bodied unoaked gastro wine with citrus acidity and a long mineral finish. Think Bacchus or Sauvignon Blanc with greater intensity and texture. It pairs well with sautéed king prawns and asparagus pasta tossed in pesto. Abundant substance to lay down for a couple of years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.50

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines

Image credit: Will Wong

Haphazard weather means variation in grape ripeness from vintage to vintage. The earlier varietals such as Madeleine Angevine, Dornfelder, Regent or Rondo seem to have fallen out of fashion to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier which are used in making Traditional Method sparkling wines. But are rosés the answer to harnessing less than fully ripened black grapes? To date, there is no uniform signature English rosé style as in Provence. In global volume terms, English rosé is still a cottage industry through trial and error at the mercy of changing climate. When done well, there are hidden gems that are unique and not copycats of Provence or Italy. 

It is only in the last five years quality still wine is made out of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The amount of vineyards in Britain that are growing still wine grapes is probably in the low hundreds of hectares, which is the equivalent of one village in France worth of vineyard area. 

Producing a serious still Pinot Noir is even more demanding. Winemakers want the colour from the skin, which must be fully ripe – or they risk extracting harsh green tannins from it. It can be tricky to get the ripeness levels and style of fruit needed even with warmer summers over the last decade or so; according to Laura Rhys at Gusbourne. 

We have found four shining examples of English rosé and Pinot Noir well worth savouring.

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk

Image credit: Will Wong

Giffords Hall is a family owned vineyard planted on the site of an ancient glacial riverbed near Long Melford in Suffolk. The sandy/clay soil in the East Anglian desert as proprietor Linda Howard calls it produces quality grapes high in natural sugars and acids, that lend themselves particularly well to both sparkling and dry, aromatic still wines.

The Howards initially bought an established vineyard which is now 35 years old. The Giffords Hall label was officially launched in 2009 with a Rosé and a Bacchus still wine. Since 2020, Linda has managed the vineyard and winery with her daughter Ellie and son Harry together with a small team. 

In the bottle and glass, this rosé is very pale salmon pink from a careful blend of hand-picked Madeleine Angevine and Rondo, a deep red grape. Fresh strawberries on the nose and when served at 12ºC, it reveals its true flinty character which works beautifully with smoked wild Alaskan salmon and boiled new potatoes. Long finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

Husband-and-wife team Tom and Elisha Cannon decided to be an independent negociant sourcing the finest grapes grown on the best, family-owned and run vineyards across Kent, Suffolk and Sussex. Not restricted by historic rules or traditions, Folc was born in 2019 as an English rosé to rival the best from Provence. 

Folc makes only rosé; and in this case they have blended seven varieties of grapes from Pinot Noir to Bacchus and Ortega. Where the black grapes give the wine its ripe red fruit flavours of wild strawberries, raspberries and cranberries, the white grapes work in harmony to form an ensemble with a crisp and textural long finish. It is a serious pink gastro wine that compliments pan fried salmon wrapped in bacon with steamed greens. Serve well chilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £21.99

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall

Image credit: Will Wong

The name Knightor is intriguing in itself. You can read about the history behind its brand here. Today, Knightor Winery is a boutique enterprise situated not far from the Eden Project and St Austell Brewery in Cornwall. They make premium quality, limited production English wines from grapes grown in English vineyards, and their own vines at Portscatho on the Roseland Peninsula, and Seaton on the south Cornish coast. It has also become an established Cornish wedding venue and rustic events space.

Retired IT professional Adrian Derx the owner is a down-to-earth entrepreneur. It is hard to imagine young winemaker David Brocklehurst already at the helm for twelve years and counting, creating a range of eclectic wines including a Riesling! Far more than just a vineyard with winery tours, there is also a restaurant and bar on site. and how about Sunday roast in their winery?

Its Alsatian or German style bottle, together with a distinctive cartography label really stands out. Unfined and unfiltered, so best stand the bottle upright for an hour before opening. Decant to separate its natural sediment and let the young wine open up. Dark fruits and bramble on the nose, followed by soft but well structured tannins and fresh acidity that will see this wine further develop over the next 2-3 years. A long and satisfying smoky finish that really puts Cornwall on the map for English wines. Pairs well with roast chicken or BBQ prawns. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.95

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Everyone in the UK wine trade has heard of the veteran vinegrower and wine maker Will Davenport, who began his career as a wine merchant in England in the 1980s. He then studied for a post-graduate diploma in oenology at Roseworthy College in Adelaide, South Australia. On returning to England, he worked at a vineyard in Hampshire with amazing grapes but very poor English wines no one wanted back then.

In 1991, Davenport planted his first five acres (two hectares) of vines at his parents’ apple farm in Horsmonden, Kent. He now owns 24 acres (10 hectares) across 5 plots, and fully converted to organic in 2000. Organic might sound admirable but remains a persistent challenge in the British cool climate with erratic rainfall patterns and humidity, making the vines prone to diseases. 

Firmly believing in the potential of great fruit from healthy vines, instead of using chemicals in the vineyard and winery, Davenport has been consistently creating both whites and reds with a depth of character. His wines inspired former music producer Adrian Pike to work as a winemaker under Will, before setting up his Westwell label. Other notable ex-apprentices include Peter Morgan (ex Nyetimber), Ben Walgate (ex Tillingham), and Ben Witchell (Flint in Norfolk). 

This Pinot Noir is sourced from the 5-acre organic Redmoors vineyard planted in 2016. Whole berries were fermented with natural yeasts, matured in oak for 18 months and bottled without filtration before release a further 20 months on. It is light in style comparable to a refined German Spätburgunder rather than the more intense Pinot Noir from Central Ortago, New Zealand or Oregon in the USA. Aromatic with complex red fruit and balanced acidity. 

Only 260 bottles were made.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £24.20

The Best English Sparkling Wine

Image credit: Will Wong

For anyone who is already familiar with English wine, chances are they tasted a sparkling at some point. The international success of English sparkling wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, when in the 1990s producers realised respectable bubblies could be made in the traditional method just like champagne, with the three classic grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in chalky soil across southeast England. 

That momentum was further confirmed in 2015 when Tattinger, one of the most respectable Champagne houses acquired land just outside Faversham in Kent. Planting of vines took place in May 2017, followed by Champagne Pommery launching its first English sparkling wine, made in partnership with Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. 

Over the last five years, UK production has been consistently ⅔ sparkling and ⅓ still, with 80% of plantings coming from Champagne varietals. To put in context, in the UK we produce 12 million bottles a year, Dom Perignon alone produces roughly 5 million, and it is this scarcity that contributes to the high price point of English wine. 

The question is: could the finest English sparkling match the quality and prestige of Champagne? 

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

‘Nyetimber is possibly the most famous of all the English sparkling wine producers, largely because of the reputation they built up on the first wines they made in the early 1990s. These were the first bottles that made people realise that English sparkling wine wasn’t just good: it could be world class.’ Dr Jamie Goode 

The Nyetimber effect actually traces back to an anglophile couple from Chicago, Sandy and Stuart Moss who knew little about winemaking. In the 1980s, they spotted a gap in quality sparkling wine. After investing in a hugely professional operation with premium style exclusivity as focus, their first wine made from Chardonnay planted in 1988 and made in 1992, won best sparkling wine in England. Their second, a blend of all three classic grapes from 1993, won best non-champagne sparkling wine in the world at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in 1998. The couple returned to the US in 2001, and Nyetimber has since had two changes in ownership and management. 

Under the stewardship of Eric Heerema, Cherie Spriggs at Nyetimber was the first non-Champenois and woman winemaker to win the prestigious ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ award at the International Wine Challenge 2018. Hence, the Nyetimber range has become a benchmark for English sparkling the world over.  

Nowadays, Nyetimber owns more vines than most of the major label Champagne houses. They are able to source vastly contrasting parcels of fruit in producing as many as 115 batches of base wine across their three county holdings. This advantage enables multi-vintage blending to create a consistent ‘house style’, which is common practice for the established Champagne houses across the Channel.

The Classic Cuveé is the flagship multi-vintage blend with mostly Chardonnay, followed by Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If you want to know the precise details, look at the back label and you will find a very long number in the bottom left corner. On its website, you could submit that to reveal a precise chronology of each bottle, detailing the important moments of bottling, riddling and disgorging.

With a bouquet of baked apples and toasted brioche, it has balanced acidity with a creamy mouthful and lemon pastry that outshines many non-vintage (NV) Champagne at a similar price point. When stored correctly (on its side, in darkness away from direct light and heat), most NV sparkling wine should continue to evolve with complexity and intensity. It pairs effortlessly with smoked salmon, sushi, oysters, scallops and even asparagus. Serve well chilled. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: On offer at £29.00, down from £42 till 25/06/2024.

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

It is no coincidence we are recommending two Nyetimber; for the above is a totally different experience. Made with 100% Chardonnay, it’s off dry and yet refreshing. The very fine bubbles offer an inviting biscuity nose followed by lemon zest on the palate. Try it with fruit tarts, custard tarts and Pasteis de nata, Crème Brûlée or strong blue cheeses. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42.99 or £29.99 Mix Six 

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Busi Jacobsohn is a modern fairy tale where Swedish-born Douglas Jacobsohn and his Italian-born wife Susanna Busi fell in love with Blackdorn Farm in Eridge. Across their five hectares, they planted an equal split of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, leaving 20% to Pinot Meunier.

Douglas spent most of his career in the marine insurance business. That perhaps explains his foresight in future-proofing by installing a drainage system beneath their vineyard, helping rainwater run off and letting their prized grapes ripen over the naturally heat-retaining sandstone. 

With the ethos of grower champagnes, they only produce single estate vintage wines not relying on blending to create a house style. 

The 2018 Blanc de Noirs is made with handpicked Pinot Noir (78%) and Pinot Meunier (22%). It is effervescent with balanced red apple acidity and mild toast on the palate. Bone dry with medium finish which is expected to further develop over 3-5 years. Pairs well with creamy crab pasta and Comté; but not Gorgonzola as Susanna advised; and she was absolutely right.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £48.00

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

Everything about Gusbourne is premium. Its name is associated with John de Goosebourne’s Appledore estate first mentioned in 1410. South African orthopaedic surgeon Andrew Weeber bought this site in 2003, with their first release in 2010. Nowadays, the company is listed on the Alternative Investment Market (AIM), with Lord Ashcroft as the main shareholder of the Gusbourne Estate. The vines now spread across 60 hectares (150 acres) at Appledore with the winery, and a further 30 hectares (75 acres) in West Sussex near Greenwood.

Gusbourne only produces vintage still and sparkling wines; with no intention of blending. Long lees ageing is the norm that results in softened acidity with added complexity. Their range of sparkling wine is impressive in quality whose unique characters come alive when you have a food pairing seasonal lunch on site. Or you could have a relaxed picnic among the vines.

Our last showcase of the dozen is truly a special occasion gem. First tasted when Laura Rhys offered at the 2022 WineGB tasting, it was once sipped, forever smitten.

63% Chardonnay and 37% Pinot Noir went into this late disgorged marvel. Light gold in colour with a fine mousse and aromas of citrus peel, alongside brioche and biscuit notes. Due to extended lees ageing, the palate is creamy and complex with flavours of buttered toast and delicate spice leading to a long, intense and unforgettable finish. Perfect with roast chicken, seared tuna steaks or rich vegetarian moussaka. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £105.00

The Future of English Wine

The quality of English sparkling wine (ESW) is firmly established against their Champagne counterparts. If you were to taste blind, you might surprise yourself to find your favourite pick turn out to be an ESW. However, with the average spend on a bottle of wine being under £7 in the UK, it is highly unlikely that a typical household sees an ESW as part of essential weekly shopping. That takes us to the emerging and ever improving still wines; which form the first two-thirds of this special English Wine Week edition. 

Production volume is minuscule by global standards with export markets still in their infancy. With high labour and production costs, and escalating prime land prices, English wine will never be able to compete with Argentina, Chile or South Africa on price alone. Output has to rise substantially, which again depends on the vintage. In the long run, entry level English still wines might need to find a price point below £15 to entice consumers to give them a try; against the infinite choices from around the world between £8-£15 on the shelves.

Many producers quietly celebrate global warming and climate change as warmer temperatures help their grapes ripen sufficiently to make quality still wines. According to a new report by the World Weather Attrition Group, Britain will increasingly see monsoon-like rains over the next decade, as well as more frequent hail storms and even “mini tornadoes”. UK regions with the highest average temperatures, particularly those in southern and central England, are likely to see the worst storms. These cast an omen for a burgeoning industry about to enter its next critical growth phase. Suddenly, looking after the soil and vines is no longer enough when dealing with climate chaos. Big Data sharing should help collective resilience through mitigation and adaptation strategies. 

Does anyone know the role of AI in viticulture and winemaking in our brave new world of the unknown?

Great Books to Read About English Wine

Vines in a Cold Climate: The People Behind the English Wine Revolution by Henry Jeffreys

Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year 2024. When was the last time you read a page-turner on wine? This is it. Opinionated but witty. Thoroughly researched without being academic. It is like a friend who’s had too much to drink telling you who’s who and done what. 

The Vineyards of Britain: Cellar Door Adventures with the Best of Britain’s Wines by Ed Dallimore

How did Ed do it? Lost count of how many vineyards are actually featured in this compendium with stunning imagery, lucid and personable writing reflecting thorough research and his empathy with the characters behind the wine labels.

By Will Wong

Five English Bacchus to Try This Spring

Image credit: Will Wong

Most wine drinkers know Sauvignon Blanc, but what about Bacchus? He was the Roman god of wine and vegetation, who showed mortals how to cultivate grapevines and make wine. Humanity then took at least three millennia to honour his immortal legacy, by naming a hybrid grape after him.

The modern Bacchus grape was born in 1933 when viticulturists Peter Morio and Bernhard Husfeld crossed the Silvaner-Riesling with Müller-Thurgau grapes at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding (now consolidated into the Julius Kühn-Institut, the German Federal Research Centre for Cultivated Plants) in The Pfalz. The hybrid infant was christened as “Geilweilerhof (Gf) 32-29-133”. However, it was not until 1972 that the German authorities approved it for general cultivation; with its divine rebirth to becoming Bacchus. 

As an early ripening grape, Bacchus does not always achieve high enough acidity to make a single varietal wine in its native Germany. It is often used for blending into Müller-Thurgau, to give the latter more flavour. 

With the cooler climate in England, Bacchus grapes are able to retain higher acidity with lower yield. These conditions result in higher quality wines in a style somewhere between premium French and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It is no surprise that Bacchus is increasingly hailed as England’s answer to Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand. It is now also the fourth most planted grape in the UK after Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the grapes used in making traditional method sparkling wines.

How does Bacchus taste?

The Bacchus grape is often associated with key aromas of hedgerow, elderflower and pear. Some believe that the floral characters of the grape could be more akin to that of its parent, Riesling. 

In the last decade, English winemakers have been experimenting and pushing boundaries with varying styles of Bacchus such as the five examples below. They range from light, floral and zesty, to gooseberry and cut-grass flavours and then the lightly oaked-aged Kit’s Coty Bacchus from Chapel Down, the largest wine producer in England.

What Food Goes with Bacchus?

The aromatic delicate notes and high acidity pair well with Thai green curry, and Vietnamese cuisine, as long as there is no fiery chilli to overpower the wine.

A more traditional pairing would be fresh seafood, or spring vegetables such as English asparagus in season now. You could also serve Bacchus as an apéritif (still or sparkling) with accompanying canapés.

With a little bottle age, preferably under three years, it becomes more gastronomic. Try it with smoked trout, aubergine moussaka, or goat’s cheese.

We now take a tour around southeast England where these five Bacchus are produced, from Essex to Kent and Surrey…

What Bacchus Should I Try?

Tuffon Hall Single Estate Bacchus Amelie 2022, North Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

Angus and Pod Crowther have been running their hundred-year old family farm and vineyard since 2014. Indeed, this very wine is named after their first daughter. It recently won the local conservation farm prize and then the equivalent for the whole of Essex, one of England’s biggest counties. Sustainability is at the heart of their business practices. 

If you are new to Bacchus, the Tuffon Hall is an ideal introduction to a grape that is no poor cousin to Sauvignon Blanc. Cut-grass, asparagus and lemon on the nose. On the palate, there is generous lemon rind and grapefruit with crisp acidity. As the temperature of your wine rises in the glass, its flinty minerality begins to shine with a long finish so best served between 12-14ºC, and not straight out of the fridge.

It pairs well with fresh or smoked seafood. Oysters, crab, prawns, scallops and fresh salmon all work. Try spring vegetables such as English asparagus and broad beans as well as creamy goats cheese.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11.5%
Find here: £15.99

New Hall Wine Estate Single Estate Bacchus 2022, Crouch Valley, Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

In 1969, the first vines were planted at New Hall Farm by Bill and Sheila Greenwood. Two years later in 1971, the first New Hall Vintage was produced from just over 30kg of fruit.  The wine was made and bottled by Mrs Greenwood in her kitchen - a total of 18 bottles.

Today, New Hall is still family-run under the stewardship of Chris Trembath, keeping it within the Greenwood family with Chris’s daughter Becki as General Manager since 2016. She is now the third generation of the family to be working at the vineyard.

Made by the same former head winemaker for the above Tuffon Hall, Steve Gillham created a very different style here. Still very pale and grassy, this Bacchus is more intense with a big personality on the first sip. The grapefruit then comes through with a flinty and steely finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11.5%
Find here: £16.50

Yotes Court ‘On the Nod’ Bacchus 2021, Mereworth, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

Yotes Court is much more than just a vineyard. It boasts an English Heritage Grade 1 listed property originally built for James Masters in 1656, nestled in 20 acres of gardens. It fell into disrepair over time and in 2008, the new owner Susannah Ricci poured her heart and soul into restoring the main house to its former glory, and transformed the other buildings on the Estate: The Clockhouse, Granary and Garden Cottage, which are all Grade 2* listed buildings. 

At 140m above sea level, a former apricot orchard has become one of the highest vineyard block in England. In the early years the fruit was grown exclusively for one of the UK’s leading still and sparkling wine producers, Chapel Down, with 60 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes harvested annually for their Traditional Method sparkling wines. In 2018, Susannah decided to expand the area under vines and planted a further 10 acres with a view to crafting wines under the Yotes Court brand. Their wines are made in collaboration with Defined Wine Ltd outside Canterbury under the guidance of winemaker Nick Lane.

2021 was only the second Bacchus vintage for Yotes Court Vineyard, with 11,000 bottles released. This very vintage was served on board Virgin Atlantic’s Upper Class in June 2023, to celebrate English Wine Week. Compared with Tuffon Hall and New Hall above, this has a much more restrained gooseberry nose and on the palate, it’s all Granny Smith apples followed by pink grapefruit once the wine has had a chance to open up in your glass. Zesty with crisp acidity. Balanced and complex. No need to shout.

So again, avoid serving straight out of the fridge. Take the chilled bottle out 20 minutes ahead and you can keep it cool later. It’s perfect with asparagus and it stood up well against mature cheddar which was a surprise. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £17

Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Bacchus, Single Vineyard, North Downs, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

A premium flagship produce from England’s largest wine producer in both sparkling and still wines. Chapel Down is the Official Sparkling Wine of the England & Wales Cricket Board, as well as the Official English Sparkling Wine of Ascot Racecourse and the Oxford & Cambridge Boat Race. They are also Official Supplier to the London Stock Exchange.

The only lightly oaked Bacchus amongst the five, the Kit’s Coty is an understated and refined gem waiting to be discovered. The nose is subtle and restrained. It definitely is not a copycat of Sauvignon. On the palate, crisp acidity is balanced with green apples and elderflower. 

An elegant and delicate gastronomic wine that pairs well with sushi, but go easy on the wasabi in your soy sauce. Lightly dressed salad also works but avoid vinaigrette dressing or lemon juice that could overpower this wine.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £30

Litmus Orange Bacchus 2022, Dorking Surrey

Image credit: Will Wong

Probably the only English Bacchus made from six weeks of skin contact with no added sulphur during fermentation. This historic method of winemaking has become once again en vogue in recent years with the Pét-Nat and natural wine following. 

Despite it being labelled as an orange or amber wine, it is pale lemon in the glass. It has a pronounced herbaceous nose, with a grassy undertone. Bone dry on the palate, with a gripping astringency due to the tannins from prolonged skin contact, it is one of a kind. If you like dry rosé, this could make an interesting alternative.

This orange Bacchus with notes of fennel is a little reminiscent of contemporary Greek retsina. Its bold flavour is able to stand up to oily meat or fish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £20

Why Bacchus?

England made headlines with outstanding sparkling wines that rival some of the best Champagnes. And now with the warmer climate, the quality and quantity of still wines such as Bacchus are on the rise. 

If you are a fan of the steely Pouilly-Fumé or Sancerre from the Loire in France, or the aromatic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, it is really worth trying English Bacchus that share some of the citrusy and herbaceous characteristics. It is an understated grape that awaits your discovery and appreciation; with lower carbon footprint too.

If you are based in the UK, why not visit your favourite producers this spring and summer? Many have cellar doors and tasting rooms, with open days and guided tours for you to learn more about the people and places behind their labels. Go explore!

By Will Wong