What's the Difference Between Organic and Biodynamic Wines?

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

The impacts of climate change now shape the long-term future of every vineyard and winemaker around the world. Savvy customers increasingly expect greater transparency on where and how the grapes are grown, and what goes into their favourite bottle of wine.

Modern commercial winemaking often depends on monoculture, rows and rows of vines lacking the biodiversity to cope with pests and disease outbreaks. To maximise crop yield, chemical fertilisers and synthetic pesticides are sprayed to protect the vines from pests, with industrial herbicides to maintain the land. The grapes are then harvested by hand or with mechanical equipment and processed using sulphites, enzymatic stabilisers, added sugars; the list goes on….

The industry standards and regulations around conventional wine making and labelling vary from country to country. We see ‘contains sulphites’ on the bottle but beyond that it’s often not possible to determine what farming practices have been used, or what and just how much of it has been added within the winemaking process. Above all, you are not able to tell what pesticides have been used on the vines/grapes and soil.

Fundamentally, soil health and biodiversity are everything - the quality and essence of the wine that takes you back to where the vines are tendered. You cannot make outstanding wines from mediocre grapes grown on over-farmed and depleted sites.

Next, we travel to Tuscany in Italy to find out more about how things can be done differently.

Fattoria La Vialla, Toscana 

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

Outside Florence and Siena lie the rolling hills of Tuscany. For those in the know, venture further south towards Arezzo (the stunning location of Roberto Benigni’s Life is Beautiful). En route lies over 1,600 hectares of fields and forest owned and managed by Fattoria La Vialla, a family-run farm and wine estate.

This Fattoria (farm and wine estate in Italian) has been practising organic and biodynamic farming and winemaking since 1978. The estate produces its own wine, extra virgin olive oil, pecorino cheese, appetisers, sauces, pasta, vinegar, honey, biscuits and more - directly from vineyard to bottle, from vegetable patch to jar.

Their wines have received multiple awards in the past decade, including 159 alone in the first half of 2024! They have a multitude of mouthwatering farm produce and their farm diaries @fattorialavialla are well worth following. Their holistic and regenerative approach to agriculture and farming even extends to a growing range of biodynamic, Demeter-certified face and body care products made from upcycled olive water from their olive oil production, as well as dietary supplements. But this begs the question, what are biodynamic and organic products? Let’s find out more…

What are Organic Wines? 

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

For over 45 years Fattoria La Vialla has cultivated its land using organic methods, but what do ‘organic viticulture’ and ‘organic wine’ mean?

Organic wine is wine produced with grapes from certified organic agriculture and only small amounts of a few additives and adjuvants are allowed, all of which must be of certified organic origin. A key point of organic production is the much lower quantity of sulphites used, compared to wines produced with conventional methods. The accepted limit of sulphur dioxide is 100 mg/l for dry red wines (versus 150 mg/l of conventional) and 150 mg/l for white and dry rosé (versus 200 mg/l of conventional).

The Italian word “biologico” for organic comes from the Greek “bios”, meaning life. Based on national and EU regulatory frameworks; to be awarded the logo “BIO”, a farm must undergo a three-year transition from conventional agriculture to a system that requires no chemicals used for pests, weeds and pathogenic organisms’ control. The use of GMO products is also prohibited.

To be labelled ‘organic wine’ with the Euro-leaf symbol, both the viticulture and winemaking processes must comply with very specific legal requirements, besides the general regulations for all wines. The label must also include the identification code of the certification agency. To maintain this status, farms are subject to annual inspections on traceability from vineyard to bottle.

Organic viticulture is not simply a business or ecological choice. Vines are self-pollinators that depend on wind. So, if your neighbouring farms or vineyards do not operate by organic standards, it would be a practical challenge to gain certification.

What are Biodynamic Wines?

Image credit: Fattoria La Vialla

Biodynamics is derived from the writings of the spiritual philosopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, who saw the farm as an ecological whole: not just rows of grapevines but the soil beneath them—a living ecosystem—and the other surrounding flora and fauna, growing together to the rhythms of nature and the cosmos.

As suggested by the name, biodynamic wine is closely related to biodynamic agricultural practices, a discipline much closer to philosophy than science. The key differences between organic and biodynamic wine are based on a holistic view of cultivation.  Biodynamics takes the concept of organic agriculture further, striving for synergy with nature and its cycles. Therefore, any wine produced with the biodynamic discipline comes from grapes cultivated following the lunar calendar, with pruning, irrigation and harvesting practices taking place on specific days. Harvest by hand is also a prerequisite.

Biodynamic wine is very similar to organic wine, but not subject to EU regulations. Its labelling also requires certification, the most common by Demeter. Besides prohibiting the use of all pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilisers, certain biodynamic ingredients such as cow horn manure and cornosilica made according to specific prescriptions have to be applied by the lunar calendar. These requirements are more stringent than those for organic certification.

In addition, only glass bottles with non-plastic closures can be used and the level of permitted sulphites as compared with organic wines are reduced further to 90mg/l for whites, 70mg/l for reds, and only 60mg/l for sparkling wines.

At Fattoria La Vialla, all farming practices are biodynamic with over 832.66 hectares of land having obtained Demeter certification and the remainder of the land undergoing conversion. Besides their organic and biodynamic certification, all La Vialla wines are vegan and La Vialla has also adopted the “La Vialla’s Method”: a way of being and of doing things, which pervades the hearts of all the “Viallini”, both staff and family, with the shared mission of respecting people, animals and the Earth.

Now, let’s taste our way through some great organic and biodynamic wines from Fattoria La Vialla:

Sparkling Wine

"Mussantino Selvatico Rosé" 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

Made with 100% Pinot Nero, its deep fuchsia pink is bound to raise eyebrows in the bottle or glass. Despite it being a sparkling wine, you’d need a corkscrew! The gentle fizz comes with a bouquet of ripe strawberries. It’s a bone-dry easy drinking aperitif that is versatile with summer salads, smoked salmon and bresaola. Summer party crowd pleaser.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £11.75 each in a case of 6

Cuvée N2 Metodo Classico Millesimato 2016

Image credit: Will Wong

It’s pale appearance almost disguises the fact that this Traditional Method extra-Brut sparkling wine is a Blanc de Noirs made with 100% Pinot Nero. Multi award winning and best of show at Vinitaly, this Blanc de Noirs is aged for 64 months on its lees (secondary fermentation in the bottle like champagne). It has notes of elderflower on the nose and is crisp but soft on the palate. Allow a little time for it to open up and serve between 6-8°C. Pairs well with baked sea bass, steamed broccoli and Jersey Royal potatoes.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £24.95

Still White Wine

Vermentino di Maremma Toscana D.O.C. 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

Lesser known and often forgotten, Vermentino is more often associated with Sardinia or Corsica. A light-bodied wine that can be as deliciously complex as some Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were harvested from Viallino vineyards in the Tuscan Maremma close to the sea, giving the wine crisp citrus acidity with a flinty and saline character. Perfect companion with pesto, white fish and seafood dishes. It works wonders with dim sum such as prawn dumplings, ‘shumai’ and spring rolls.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £8.65 each in a case of 6

Pinot Grigio I.G.T. 2022

Image credit: Will Wong

Blended with super ripe grapes from two sites, this unfiltered Pinot Grigio is bottled with the lees which you might find at the bottom of the bottle. This extends its bottle life if stored in darkness away from heat; and gives the wine extra texture over time. Chill the bottle upright in the fridge if possible.

Once the cork is drawn, you will be seduced by its lush tropical nose packed with peaches and nectarines ripened in the Tuscan sun. On the first sip, the wine is bone-dry with a slight tangy long finish, much like some funky ‘natural’ wines. Great companion with Caesar chicken kebab and aubergine. Best enjoyed with shellfish and crustaceans, either raw, steamed or grilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14%
Find here: £9.60 each in a case of 6

Still Red Wines

Casal Duro I.G.T. 2020

Image credit: Will Wong

Aged for 24 months in barriques, the deep ink in your glass looks serious. Yet, its vibrant cherry nose and youthful soft tannins make this unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blend very accessible now, with further cellaring potential of at least five years. Medium-bodied and robust, this multi-gold-award winning wine stands up to grilled red meat or roast beef with ease. Italian fares such as lasagne or tomato-based pasta and pizza are waiting.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £16.55 each in a case of 6

Cortona Syrah D.O.C. Riserva 2019

Image credit: Will Wong

As seen on the Impressionist painting on the label, the historic and scenic town of Cortona is perched on a hilltop where some of the best Syrah grapes are grown nearby. 2019 proved to be an exceptional vintage. Some of the harvest were aged in Slavonian oak with the rest in used 500-litre tonneaux barrels for 24 months. Once blended, the cuvée remains in the bottle for another year to soften the tannins.

In high summer with temperatures over 25ºC, it’s worth chilling the bottle before decanting at least an hour ahead of serving to let the wine breathe and open up. The result is an inviting cherry perfume nose followed by a dry black peppery long finish. Pair with any hearty red meat or winter stews. It even works with bitter dark chocolate!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £16.60 each in a box of two

Podere La Casotta I.G.T. 2018

Image credit: Will Wong

The beautifully illustrated front label gives us a glimpse of the picturesque landscape; with the once abandoned and derelict 18th century ‘podere’ (farmstead) facing a semi-circle of majestic cypress trees. Restoration began in 2002; together with planting varietals that are blended in this flagship red.

Three of the five grapes in the blend, including Sangiovese that makes Chianti famous worldwide, are left to dry out lying on racks in well-ventilated dry rooms until December. They are then combined with the other two already in fermentation. This process is called ‘appassimento’ and it creates a greater concentration of colours, aromas and flavours in the wine. The final blend is aged in barriques for 24 months, followed by 6 months in casks and a further 12 months in the bottle.

Decanted an hour ahead, the lovely herbal nose will take you up the hillside forest. It’s delicately smooth and balanced with soft tannins and dark fruits. Any underlying sweetness is restrained leading to a moreish fine red perfect to drink now and will age gracefully over 20 years if cellared with care.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £25.25 each in a box of two

Sweet Wines

Vin Santo 'Occhio di Pernice' Riserva D.O.C. 2015

Image credit: Will Wong

The ‘Liquid of Saints’ is hailed as the Prince of Tuscan dessert wines and won best of show at VinItaly with 96 points! Being a Riserva, the Sangiovese and Malvasia Toscano blend must be aged in small Caratelli (oak or cherry) barrels for at least 7 years. The concentrated sugar gives this honey nectar an ageing potential of 20 years. Enjoy at 15ºC on its own, with crème brûlée or strong cheeses.

Size: 500ml
ABV: 15%
Find here: £19.40

Respect for the Earth does not have to break the bank for us consumers. Fattoria La Vialla delivers your order without middlemen at very competitive prices. Giuliana and Piero Lo Franco began pursuing their dream of restoring the abandoned farm over 46 years ago and now their sons - Gianni, Antonio and Bandino – continue to run Fattoria La Vialla whilst being inspired by the idea of good, healthy food, and the protection of nature and its fruits.

Promoted from ‘carbon neutral’ to ‘climate positive; by the Nature Office of Italy in 2020, Fattoria La Vialla is a totally eco-sustainable, “climate positive” farm and wine estate. La Vialla hasn’t stopped here though, as in 2022 the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), together with the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO) chose Fattoria La Vialla as one of the #GenerationRestoration actors for the United Nations Decade on Ecosystem Restoration. The aim of the programme is to create a global movement to prevent, halt, and reverse the degradation of ecosystems, in which sustainable and regenerative agriculture plays a key role. We don’t know about you, but we can’t wait to see what Fattoria La Vialla does next!

Have you ever wondered what unfiltered wines taste like, or if it’s safe to drink the ‘bits’ floating in your wine, if so, click here. For those looking for some perfect pasta and wine pairings look no further than here.

By Will Wong

A Super Tuscan Rising Star: Tenuta di Biserno

We’re massive fans of Italian wines and Tuscany in particular holds a special place in our hearts. Helena Nicklin heads to a lesser known part of the region to get to know a very exciting wine producer…

If you’ve tried the finest wines from Tuscany, chances are that they’ve been touched by the hand of the most famous wine family in the region, if not the country: Famiglia Antinori. All those beautiful names - Ornellaia, Sassicaia, Massetto, Solaia, Tignanello - have been blessed with the Antinori magic and most of them still are. But this is not a story about the famous Tuscan region of Chianti, where wine tourism mechanics move like well-oiled machines. This is about another coastal Tuscany; a part that’s still rugged, still being discovered and gorgeously authentic called the Maremma.

What’s more, it has already formed a reputation for making wines that breaks the rules but in doing so, have created fine wines to rival the very best in the world. We’re talking about the Maremma, which is coastal Tuscany. It’s an area that splits into three sub regions: Upper, Central and South, but it’s the Upper or ‘Alta’ Maremma where the very best wines are being made. Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Massetto – yes, but there’s a new kid on the block steaming through the ranks and it’s made by Lodovico Antinori’s team at Tentua di Biserno in Bibbona.

From Bolgheri to Bibbona

Marchese Lodovico Antinori came across what would become the Biserno Estate (Tenuta di Biserno) back in 1995. Located in the Alta Maremma, just north of Bolgheri in Bibbona, the area boasts wild, sweeping landscapes, pine forests, hilltop castles and stunning views all the way down to the Tyrrheniansea. Most importantly however (for the wine in any case), the combination of this climate, cooled by the sea breeze with the unique soils of the area made the Marchese sit up and pay attention. At the time, he had been looking for land with which he could extend his beloved Ornellaia vineyards, but he soon realised that the terrain was much hillier; much stonier than it was at Ornellaia and so would need to be a separate project with different grapes. In a surprising move that some might say is a sad regret for the family, Ornellaia was sold (a long story for another time), but this now meant that Lodovico could devote time to pursuing a new story in this incredibly exciting, undiscovered terroir on just the other side of the fence.

The Birth of Biserno

In the midst of the vines, the lemon trees and olive groves and with a gorgeous infinity pool, sits the Biserno guest house. Originally destroyed in 1850, it was rebuilt in the 1950s and while not open generally to the public, the eight bedrooms can available for exclusive, prearranged visits, which can include wine tastings, personal tours of the region and cooking classes on request. Tiziana, the in-house chef buys fresh produce daily from the local market and makes food with stunning simplicity with the lightest of touches. It is the vines and the wines however that demand even closer attention.

The Biserno wines

49 acres of vines were planted at Biserno between 2001 and 2005. The clay element of the terroir particularly led Lodovico to plant Bordeaux varietals; Cabernet franc, then some Merlot with, interestingly, a generous dollop of Petit Verdot and a smattering Cabernet Sauvignon. Within these 49, there is a patch of 6 acres, which stands above the rest and is home to the star wine of the Tenuta’s stable: Biserno ‘Lodovico’.

Just like Sassicaia at the very beginning of the Super Tuscan story, Bibbona does not have its own DOC, so all wines, no matter how great, can only be called IGT (Indicazione Geographica Typica). This may change as it did for Sassicaia (Sassicaia was only granted its own DOC in 2013) but to be honest, they may not even want that. A DOC means rules after all – and we all know that Bolgheri didn’t get where it is today by following those! Here’s a look at what Tenuta di Biserno produce and where you can find them:

The Tenuta di Biserno wine range

Rosé - Sof A brand new rosé, named after Lodovico’s 21 year-old daughter Sofia who came back from travels demanding they make a dry pink. It’s made with more or less 50 % Cabernet Franc and 50% Syrah. 2017 is the first vintage and it has a very pretty, vibrant pink colour with a refreshing prickle of CO2. On the palate, bright red fruit settles to soft, strawberry cream and a saline finish.

£24.50 from Corney & Barrow and by the case at Champagne & Chateaux

Red - Insoglio del Cinghiale (The wild boar’s hideout): Always mostly Syrah (it’s the only red Biserno wine with Syrah in it). Made to be released a year after production and meant for immediate drinking. The 2016 has a lovely purple hue and a typical Syrah garrigue character; herbaceous and violet-scented with bramble fruit a touch of smoked meat. There’s a cool, saline seam running through it too, which appears in many of the Biserno wines.

£21.50 from Corney & Barrow and by the case at Champagne & Chateaux

Red - Il Pino di Biserno: A step up from Cinghiale and where Cabernet Franc starts to come into its own, with some Petit verdot, a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – like an inside-out Bordeaux blend. With a deeper colour and more complexity than Insoglio and with a year in oak barrels and 6-8 months in bottle before release, the 2015 had a generous, silky red fruitiness and spice amongst the brambles.

£42.20 - £47.95 depending on vintage from Corney & Barrow and by the case at Champagne & Chateaux

Red - ‘Biserno’

With Biserno, Lodovico put the wheels in motion for the next Tuscan icon wine. 2007 was the first vintage and the blend is predominantly Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet franc and Petit verdot. The left banker of Biserno, as it were. You can see the vintage variations throughout the years. We tasted the following vintages:

2007: Animal, meaty and powerful. Lots of garrigue herbs. Not shy!

2008: More refined tannins; silky, with a mineral core.

2009: A warmer vintage, shown by lots of baked fruit, blackcurrant compote. Fleshy texture.

2010: Very cool, wet year creating a very elegant and cool mineral vintage that’s drinking well already. Not typical.

2015: Surprisingly drinkable given its youth. Very strawberry up front, with fine, tight tannins and secondary notes of spice just starting to show.

£95.95 - £102.95 depending on vintage from Corney & Barrow (also available in magnum and double magnum) and by the case at Champagne & Chateaux.

Red - Biserno ‘Lodovico’

The first Lodovico vines were planted in 2012 and every year made a difference.  Helped by Michel Rolland, the Marchese always has the last say on the blend. Lodovico is generally around 95% Cabernet franc with 5% Petit Verdot. The 2013 had quite long skin contact (21-28 days) and was aged for 16 m in mostly new French oak. It showed immediate ripeness of fruit with sweet spiciness, concentration, fleshy and complexity. The production is generally small (5 – 10,000 a year) depending on the vintage and it’s only made in best years. Releases so far are 07, 08, 11, 13, 15, 16, 17.

£220-£240 from Corney & Barrow (2012 also available in magnum) and by the case at Champagne & Chateaux.

By Helena Nicklin

Sassicaia: The first Super Tuscan

Running parallel to the Tuscan coast in the Maremma and beginning just below Livorno, you’ll find Bolgheri D.O.C: one of the newest - and arguably most exciting - appellations in the whole of Italy. Though formed as recently as 1994, Bolgheri D.O.C has already achieve legendary status in the world of fine wine and it’s all because of one curious, fearless man and a particular wine he created that broke all the rules: Sassicaia.

A love story that started it all

The story truly began after World War One, when Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, a Piedmontese agronomist who’d fought as part of the cavalry, enrolled in the faculty of Agriculture in Pisa. He brought with him to Tuscany his beloved horse and it was through his involvement with the local thoroughbred community that he met Clarice della Gherardesca, whom he married in 1930. The two moved to Rome to breed race horses, but returned to her home town of Bolgheri after the second World War. Mario busied himself helping to reorganise the property his wife had inherited, which had become neglected during the war. The name of the property was Tenuta San Guido.

From grain to grapes

As an agronomist, Mario Incisa helped the property thrive with fruit, vegetables and other agricultural products including incredible tulips that even turned the heads of the Dutch. Eventually, it was the turn of grapes. Now, growing up in a noble family, Mario Incisa had tasted a lot of wine from Bordeaux, which he loved. It was therefore only a matter of time before he turned his attentions to winemaking. Wine was already being made in the region with the local Sangiovese grapes, mostly down in the drained marshlands by the sea, but it wasn’t producing fine quality or enough quantity - a key factor in production at the time. This was not the wine Mario Incisa wanted to make; he wanted to create a fine Bordeaux - only at home, in Tuscany and to hell with what teh rules said in the D.O.C. wine guidelines for the area. He set about studying what made the wines of Bordeaux so good. Was it the grapes? The soil? The climate? Or was it something else entirely? So, off he went to stay with family friends at Mouton Rothschild (as you do when you’re a nobleman) to find his magic formula.

Friends in high places

Back in Italy after studying Bordeaux in depth, he realised that the position of his vineyards needed to be more inland, slightly higher up and on stony soil, like much of the left bank of Bordeaux. He found the perfect spot in the hills of Castiglioncello di Bolgheri: a family lookout, surrounded by forest and with a stunning view over area. He planted his first vines here at 400m above sea level, facing east and 15km away from the sandy soils by the Tyrrhenian sea. More interested in creating his own ‘Bordeaux’ than playing by the rules, Mario Incisa planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and named his vineyard ‘Sassicaia’, meaning ‘area of many stones’.

Kick-starting the Italian wine renaissance

The first vintage of Sassicaia was officially bottled in 1945, but it was not much like how it tastes today. Mario Incisa experimented for a few more years before deciding he needed help from a proper oenologist, so he looked to their cousins, the Antinori family, and spoke to their oenologist Giacomo Tachis. Together, Mario Incisa and Giacomo agreed they should make fine wines from Bordelais red grapes on this terroir and Giacomo helped to introduce modern processes he’d learned on Bordeaux to fine tune the winemaking. The rest happened impressively quickly. 1968 was Giacomo’s first vintage - and Sassicaia’s first commercial vintage - was 1968. Ten years later, Decanter Magazine held a blind tasting competition for ‘Great Clarets’ where the 1972 Sassicaia beat 33 wines from 11 countries to win its first international award. Heads were starting to turn towards this ‘table wine’ from Tuscany. Sassicaia’s fate was sealed with the 1985 vintage (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc), thanks to a stunning 100 point review from Robert Parker, who said of the wine that it frequently reminded him of a 1986 Mouton Rothschild, of all wines. Giacomo continued to work with Sassicaia, completing his final vintage in 2007. He died in 2016 and will forever be known as the man who kick started the Italian wine renaissance. Bolgheri got its own DOC status in 1983 but more recently in 2013, Sassicaia was awarded its own: DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia.

Tenuta San Guido and Sassicaia today

Today, Tenuta San Guido is run by Mario’s son, Marchese Nicoló Incisa della Rocchetta. Sassicaia is still their flagship wine, but the family wanted to produce something to that could be drunk while they waited for it to mature. Two more wines were born: Le Difese and Guidalberto.

WINES

Le Difese

‘Le difese’ are the tusks of the wild boar. This wine is their entry level label, made for immediate drinking within two or three years. The 2016 (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese) is very red and black fruit forward, with lots of cassis and just enough structure and freshness to make this over deliver for the price.

£19.50 from Armit Wines

Guidalberto

Named after the Clarice’s father, Guidalberto was produced after the amazing 1985 vintage to cover market demand. Not a second wine, Guidalberto has its own identity and style, using some Merlot in the blend. The 2016 (60% Cabernet Sauvignon 40% Merlot) has a darker, blue black colour with sweet, cinnamon oak on the nose and tightly woven bramble fruit on the palate, with delicate tannins.

Find the 2015 at Hedonism wines for £29.90

Sassicaia

We tasted the 2015 vintage (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc), which had an intense, cedar and spice nose with generous blackcurrant and bramble fruit on the palate. While this wine is so you, it has an incredible drinkability already thank to is cool minearlity and super fine tannic structure.

£148.60 from Armit Wines

By Helena Nicklin

Originally written for Winerist Magazine in October 2018