9 Bulgarian Wines You Have To Try

Bulgaria is a lesser-known wine territory, with ancient winemaking traditions, and as such may be classified as part of the new world wine movement that consumers are slowly discovering. If you were to mention Bulgarian wines to many people, it is likely that they might not have tried Bulgarian wines before and would be surprised to learn of its winemaking history and background with over 260 registered winemakers!

In 1878, Bulgaria's wine renaissance began following the country's freedom from the Ottoman Empire and in 1980, Bulgaria was recognised as the Eastern Block’s largest wine producer. These days, there are more opportunities to try Bulgarian wines due to a greater focus on the promotion of wines from Central and Eastern Europe. Indeed, there was a Slow Wine Fair in Bulgaria in 2024, the inaugural edition of the Ultimate Central and Eastern European Wine Fair took place in London in June 2024 and, of course, there is the annual International Mavrud Day celebrated on 26 October. In the UK, many of these wines are available through The Jolly Merchants, formerly The Old Cellar, which is a specialist importer and distributor focusing on Bulgaria and the Balkan's winemaking regions.

Within Bulgaria, the wines produced are divided into regions and presently there are two official appellations recognised as Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) - the Danubian Plains and the Thracian Lowlands, which includes the Thracian Valley.  But there is an increased need for greater diversity and as such there is a movement between winemakers, producers and the Bulgarian Association of Wine Professionals to establish more appellations including Rose Valley, Struma Valley and the Black Sea Coast, for example. There are many varieties of grapes found within Bulgaria ranging from indigenous varieties such as Dimyat, Gamza, Mavrud, Melnik, Red Misket and Rubin alongside international varieties that we may all know such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. We will therefore take you on this wine journey across Bulgaria to discover its wider range of appellations and grape varieties – are you ready?

Danubian Plains

Did you know that it was the wines from the Northwest of Bulgaria that first sparked international interest in the Bulgarian wine industry? This area contains remarkable, diverse terroirs with an overall continental climate with the norm being for the region to have heavy, cold winters but dry summers. You can find both red and white grape varieties within the Danubian Plains including Rubin and White Misket, whilst Gamza is also a popular grape variety for the region.

The Black Sea Coast is currently also included within the Danubian Plains appellation, but this may change should the appeal for wider appellations be approved. This region covers the North East of Bulgaria with the Black Sea and the Balkans Mountains forming part of the geographical diversity. The region tends to have mild winters which makes this a popular wine tourism location. White wines are popular on the Black Sea Coast, for example Dimyat, Misket and Chardonnay but red wine drinkers need not fear as you can also find wines produced from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.

We have also selected some wines that you can try from the Danubian Plains appellation – let’s dive in!

Pét-Nat Riesling Extra Brut 2023, Tsarev Brod Winery, Black Sea Coast

Did you know that Pét-Nat is an abbreviation for the French term pétillant naturel, which means naturally sparkling? This is a semi-sparkling wine celebrating the trend towards having natural wines and Pét-Nat uses the Ancestral method of wine production which means that the wine is bottled before the completion of the first fermentation which is vastly different to the traditional method used for champagne and other sparkling wines that have a second fermentation in the bottle. This wine has also been aged for 4 months in the bottle.

The Tsarev Brod Winery planted its first vines, as part of a project in 2001 and these days offers both virtual and in person wine tasting sessions, which will be ideal for those curious about Bulgarian wines. This wine focuses on the Riesling grape variety and has small bubbles with a sweet pear and biscuity aroma on the nose. It is slightly cloudy, as expected for a natural wine, but has an unsweetened, dry, slightly acidic, apple tasting flavour profile but is light enough to be ideal as that aperitif on a summer’s day watching some polo matches!

ABV: 11.5%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £19.99

Cabernet Franc Kavarna Single Vineyard 2022, Odessos Urban Winery, Black Sea Coast

Two brothers from the Vankov family founded this winery which is one of the first urban wineries in Bulgaria. Their aim is to represent the elements from the Black Sea Coast region within their winemaking. 2020 saw the launch of their first vintage and since then they have expanded the amount of grape varieties that they use. Their 2021 vintage of the Cabernet Franc wine had featured within the Top 50 Best Bulgarian wines by DiVino and the wine was also the winner of a silver prize award at the Decanter World Wine Awards. It is therefore unsurprising that the winery has been described as a rising star within the Bulgarian wine industry. Odessos Urban Winery is located close to the Black Sea Coast and the vines that they use are approximately 10 years old and the grapes are hand picked.

This wine is made from 100% Cabernet Franc grape, although this grape is quite often blended with Bordeaux grapes, and has minimal intervention. It is a medium bodied wine of a light ruby colour and has been aged in both Bulgarian oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. As such, there are instantly detectable spicy smells combined with blackcurrants and it is dry on the palate with balanced acidity and an unsweetened chocolate or Black Forest gateau flavour profile evoking that impression of a cherry base. Pair this with cheddar cheese for a wine and cheese night as the nights become cooler.

ABV: 13%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £24.50

Gomotartzi Chardonnay 2020, Bononia Estate, Danube Plain

This is an award winning 100% Chardonnay wine which has collected the bronze in the Decanter 2022 Awards and the silver in the 2022 Chardonnay du Monde awards. The Gomotartzi Chardonnay is produced in the Danube Plain, which is Bulgaria’s second official appellation. The Bononia Estate is located along the banks of the Danube and with an onsite hotel it is a perfect wine tourism destination.

This vintage’s drinking window is up to the year 2026 and it is best served chilled. This is an unoaked Chardonnay, you will be pleased to know, and has a gooseberry aroma on the nose similar to a Sauvignon Blanc with hints of green apple. It is a zesty, crisp Chardonnay with a pronounced intensity and medium finish which will pair well with crab toast and amuses-bouches.

ABV: 13.5%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £18.99

Thracian Lowlands

The Thracian Valley region contains a diverse soil type plus it is a culturally rich area combined with high winds, which will benefit the wine making process overall. Numerous wineries can be found in this location offering different styles ranging from the traditional to new age wines. Highly recommended wines from this region include sparkling wines as well as some outstanding red wines. Surprisingly, the most widely used grape variety appears to be Merlot, closely followed by Cabernet Sauvignon within this region.

The Rose Valley is probably the smallest wine region in Bulgaria, which also includes the fascinating city of Plovdiv. The popular indigenous Mavrud grape variety can be found within this location, which is a versatile, sophisticated wine. Another popular grape variety for this region is the Red Misket. The Rose Valley is an exclusive region, given its small number of wineries, but it is surrounded by the Balkan mountains and it is a popular region for rose flowers, of course.

Struma Valley is located to the Southwest of Bulgaria and tends to be another popular wine tourism destination. Here, is where the majority of the wine production of the Melnik grape variety occurs. As it is a hilly region, there are optimal conditions for the grapes alongside a warm, Mediterranean climate. Therefore, many tourist attractions can be enjoyed within Struma Valley. The region has an ever growing number of wineries that may also provide accommodation should you be following the Bulgarian wine route. 

Here are some wines that you can try at home or when travelling within Bulgaria from this Thracian Lowlands region – let’s explore further!

Melnik 55 2022, Logodaj Winery, Struma Valley

The Melnik region along the Struma River is one of the smaller wine producing areas within Southwestern Bulgaria. The Logodaj Winery was founded in 1994 and is situated in the middle of historically significant cities and focuses on growing native Bulgarian varieties such as Melnik 55 as well as some international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Did you know that Melnik 55 was apparently a favourite grape variety of Sir Winston Churchill?!

The Early Melnik Vine aka Melnik 55 is a blend of the Broad Leaf Melnik and pollen from other varieties. This variety typically ripens towards the end of September and may therefore naturally be sweeter.  However, this is a fruit forward, off-dry wine with gentle oak barrel maturation. This Melnik 55 has a raisin, dried fruit aroma and may invoke impressions of a fruit cake aroma. It is a ruby red colour, medium bodied with tobacco, juicy red cherry, blackcurrants and spice within its flavour profile to make this a smooth, very quaffable wine with a medium finish. It is a definite crowd pleaser and would be the wine to bring to introduce friends and family to Bulgarian wines and impress them with its versatility.

ABV: 14%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £17

AXL Rose Valley Misket 2023, Chateau Copsa, Rose Valley

Despite its name, this wine has no connection to the Guns N’ Roses lead singer bearing a similar stage name! Instead, the Château Copsa winery was founded by the Minkov family in 1998 and its building certainly resembles a castle with impressive stone towers and houses its own winery!

This wine is made from 100% Red Misket grapes, which is typical for the Rose Valley, and this vintage has a drinking window up to 2027. This Misket wine is part of a limited release from this indigenous grape variety, with just 1300 bottles produced, and has been hand harvested. It is a dry, medium bodied white wine with hints of floral aromas as well as a fruity, pear aroma on the nose. There are stone fruits on the palate and overall this is an easy drinking, smooth, tangy but balanced wine. 

You can also experience the beauty of the Rose Valley region and absorb the aromas from the nearby rose and lavender fields. There is a French ambience too, with onsite accommodation, for those seeking an unspoilt holiday destination for that secret escape.

ABV: 13%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £17 - 2023 vintage available September 2024 onwards

Villa Melnik Orange Wine 2020, Thracian Valley

Villa Melnik is a Southwestern family owned vineyard that specialises in being a gravity flow vineyard. There is an emphasis on using local grapes and therefore this orange wine is a blend of the locally grown Bulgarian Keratsunda grape variety and Sauvignon Blanc. This orange wine has skin contact for a few weeks to create that orange hue and is fermented in stainless steel tanks. There is a pleasant fruitiness to this dry wine which is aromatic with a natural wine profile and would work well with cheesy pasta dishes. The winery is also open every day for those wine tours and tastings.

ABV: 12%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £26.95

Pink Side of Rubin Rosé 2022, Georgiev/Milkov, Thracian Valley

This wine has been produced by the young winemakers Georgiev and Milkov who started their project in 2014 and sought to highlight indigenous Bulgarian grapes, such as Rubin and Mavrud on the international stage. Their efforts led to them finding a 40 year old vineyard that had Rubin grapes and the rest, as they say, is history! Rubin was created in 1944 as a blend of Syrah and Nebbiolo – did you know?

This wine has been aged for 4 months in French barrels and has a refreshing, floral and elegant profile. The drinking window for this vintage is up to 2026. It is a salmon pink Provençal style colour with strawberries on the nose and medium intensity but it is dry on the palate and would pair well with almonds for a summer picnic.

ABV: 12.5%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £21.05

Yuli's Shiraz, 2021, Thracian Valley

Yuli’s is a family run winery that has a history of winemaking in Southwest Bulgaria since the 1900s. It is also an award winning winery with a dramatic backstory as the winery fell out of the family’s hands in 1940! But, the present owner founded the winery in 1989 and has undertaken a restoration project. 

This is a medium bodied Shiraz with blackberry and tobacco on the nose. It is a purple berry colour and slightly tannic on the palate with a medium finish and a bitter aftertaste. This Shiraz would work well with tomato based dishes.

ABV: 13%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £8.99

Santimenti Mavrud 2022, Zagreus Winery, Thracian Valley

This winery has been producing organic wines since 2010 and planted their first vines in 1998. Zagreus Winery is focused on sustainability and the ecosystem and became Bio certified. Their philosophy is for low intervention. Mavrud is an indigenous Bulgarian grape variety and this medium bodied wine is vegan friendly. It is purple in colour with blackcurrant aromas on the nose as well as white pepper aromas. On the palate, this is a tangy, dry wine with complexity and is a good wine to share to showcase the range that Bulgarian wines have!

ABV: 13.5%
Size: 750ml 
Find here: £18

For that extra special treat, we present you with what is known as Bulgaria’s traditional drink, which is Rakia. Whilst this is not a wine, it is a grape Rakia and is similar to Grappa in that sense and can be enjoyed as that digestif to cleanse the palate.

Arkana Rakia from Muscat Ottonel, Seewines Spirit JSC, Thracian Valley

The grape variety for this Rakia is Muscat Ottonel, which involves a fermentation of parts of the juice. Interestingly, SeeWines Spirit JSC planted their first vineyards with Muscat Ottonel in 2016!

This Rakia has had some ageing in oak barrels and is a light golden colour. There is an intensity on the nose with hints of spices and rose to provide that balance. Whilst it has that stronger flavour similar to Brandy and that warmth on the chest there is also a slight floral and honey aftertaste to ensure that it will appeal to most palates. The Arkana Rakia is also an award winner within the Spirits Selection of the 2022 International Competition in Brussels.

ABV: 42%
Size: 700ml 
Find here: Currently not available for shipping, but find Rakia here.

You may be wondering why there is no mention of Bulgaria’s capital city Sofia within these wine regions. Indeed, Sofia is carved out but, we do have you covered in that respect if you wish to visit Sofia and its neighbouring areas to partake in some wine tasting and a bit of wine tourism on holiday.

The Sofia Wine Walk company specialises in sommelier led wine tours to 2 or 3 locations, a bit like a bar crawl, where you can experience different wines according to your personal preferences. There are 6 Bulgarian wines to try, with tapas available at some locations, and it is a fun, enjoyable way to explore Bulgarian wines and to meet new people too! You could be a solo traveller for these wine walks or travel with family or friends and these walking wine tasting sessions are also a good gift for a special occasion.

Reservations can be made online too: https://sofiawinewalk.com/en/

As you can see, the Bulgarian wine landscape is emerging and transforming with many new projects and innovations being developed. We hope that this article will provide that inspiration to try another wine region and explore the variety of grapes within Bulgarian wines. As there are various events showcasing Bulgarian wines now, would you be tempted to go to one or to visit Bulgaria for wine tours? We can’t wait to hear about your Bulgarian wine adventures.

By Latoya Austin

Sweet Summer Sippin’: Why You Need Orange Wine In Your Life

Orange wine - or “Amber Wine” - has taken high end cocktail bars and quirky bottle shops by storm over the course of just a few years, begging the question, what is it and why has it suddenly got a vice grip on the world of fine wine? Could it be the next Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio? Today we aim to inform, dispel some myths, and hopefully explain just what orange wine is and why you need it in your life.

Many distributors have reported skyrocketing sales in recent years and this trend is predicted to continue and propel orange wine into the halls of wine fame. As consumers (that’s you!) become more privy to new wine styles, and more conscious of the things they put into their body, it seems orange wine is here for the long haul with producers boasting organic processes and a very real devotion to biodiversity and environmental protection. 

One can expect wines all along the spectrum with notes of tropical fruits, citrus, honey, orange blossom and so much more. We’ll delve into exactly what makes orange wine tick a little later. For now, we ask the question: 

Is Orange Wine for You?

It is disingenuous to associate orange wine with any category other than its own. With a unique history and a complex flavour profile, it’s best to take orange wine as its own product, rather than comparing it to red or white wine. It’s good to get an idea of what you’re in for when trying something totally new. Therefore, Orange Wine might be for you if: 

• You want to try something new. 

• You want something a little different for your summer get-together. 

• You prefer wines that are additive free and organic. 

• You’re looking for a wine rich with antioxidants. 

• You enjoy particularly tropical, citrusy and tannic wines.

• You love dry wines. Sweet Orange Wines exist, but typically they are unsweetened and often have more in common with a dry white wine on the palette than anything else.

Orange wine for beginners

The first thing you should know about Orange Wine, is that it is not a flash in the pan, fad or trend. In fact, it comes from an ancient technique that has been resurged, revamped and rebranded. It’s actually thousands of years old and emanates from ancient winemakers in the country of Georgia. Roots can also be found in Italy and Slovenia, but these days, Orange Wine is made all over the world. The point we’re trying to make is, Orange Wine is here to stay.

Another myth we simply must dispel is the common misconception that Orange Wine, with its orange sunset hue, is orange flavoured. What actually differentiates Orange Wine from white wine production is that during fermentation, the skin of the grapes is left on, and leaves a tint on the final colour of the wine. Some wines might have notes of orange peel, but that has more to do with the winemaker's masterful use of tannins than it does any kind of inclusion of real orange. 

The “grape skin contact” method of wine production creates a delightfully bright, sharp wine with endless variety depending on the style of white wine grapes used. Many orange wines are considered to be “natural wine”, or “low intervention wine” to coin a winemaker's term. All this means is that the wines are made from fermented grape juice and not altered after the fact - this means no additives and a more pure, fermented flavour profile. 

Typically, Orange Wine should be served in your favourite wine glass, preferably chilled, at around 10 degrees celsius. 

So now you know what orange wine is and where it comes from. Now we ask the all important question of what to drink? There are new orange wines popping up every single day and a definitive catalogue is impossible, but just to start you off, here are some great bottles you can get your hands on:

Domaine Lafage Taronja de Gris

Taronja is the Catalan word for orange, paying homage to this producer's rich Catalan heritage. This blend of three grapes is aged in oak for six months and boasts heavy peach, tropical fruit, bitter citrus and peppercorn on the palate. A fine example of the versatility of orange wine, to be enjoyed alongside all manner of dishes, and works incredibly well as an aperitif. It has a fresh, persistent finish that will leave you wanting more…

Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Find here: Drinkfinder £23.99

Kakhuri No. 8 

If you’ve read this far, you should know by now that Orange Wine is traditionally from Georgia. This excellent bottling is a blend of four grapes indigenous to the historic region - Rkatsiteli, Kakhuri Mtsvane, Khikhvi and Kisi. Grapes are hand selected for a rigorous quality control process, and are allowed to age with the wine six months after fermentation resulting in a wine that is as fresh as it is funky; deeply aromatic with dried apricot and nutty notes. Enjoy this one cool, not cold. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: ND John - £13

Denbies Orange Solaris 

Produced in the independently run Denbies Wine Estate, this historic vineyard has crafted an award winning British Orange Wine from 100% Solaris grapes, hand-picked and made almost exactly in the same fashion they would make their red wine offerings. The white wine grapes provide a fresh pineapple quality on the nose, yet this fantastic wine is bold enough to stand up to a perfect pairing with spiced foods. Expect lychee, tropical fruits and pomegranate in this delicious bottle. Also, fun fact - Denbies is the first UK vineyard to be carbon net zero!

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: Grape Britannia - £27.49

Glekhuri Kisi Qvevri

Want a taste of something truly traditional? This Georgian wine is made from 100% Kisi grapes, which are the closest thing to a traditional orange wine grape. With over thirty years in the winemaking industry culminating in this refreshing and classic example of skin-contact wine. This deeply tannic and structured Orange Wine expression is fermented underground for two weeks. On the palate, expect citrus fruits, walnuts and toasted oak. This is a fantastic introduction to the historic Orange Wines of Georgia. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: Hedonism Wines - £27.30

Denbies Orange Vermouth

Now for something a little different, in the interest of showcasing just how versatile the world of Orange Wine can be, from the makers of the aforementioned Solaris comes this delightfully complex vermouth using the Solaris grape skin pressings. The result is a crisp, dry aperitif that is fantastic on its own but also brilliant in a cocktail. Try in a dry gin Martini or in a hi-ball with soda. 

Size: 700ml
ABV: 18%
Find here: Denbies - £26

Orancio Savoia 

From the makers of aperitif powerhouse Italicus comes this fantastic expression using orange wine as its base. Inspired by the flavours and spices Marco Polo may have come across during their voyage through the silk roads of Asia. The harmonious combination of spices and citrus fruits with a traditional orange wine makes for a completely unique aperitif that evokes the spirit of adventure one might find in the Italian drinks industry. Enjoy over ice or in a classic spritz cocktail.

Size: 500ml
ABV: 17.2%
Find here: The Whisky Exchange - £21.95

Still not convinced? Well, why not try something a little bolder and explore this list of Eight Tannat Wines You Need to Try.

By Miley Kendrick

Danilo Frigulti Wins Britain’s Best Bartender at Diageo World Class GB

From hundreds of bartenders to just one, it was Danilo Frigulti from Viajante87 bar in Notting Hall who was crowned the winner of Diageo’s World Class GB final in June. Since establishing himself as a barista in the south of Italy where he’s from, it was a move to London that kickstarted a bartender path, first at The London Edition, then The Nomad Hotel where he progressed all the way to Head Bartender.

Competing against 22 other finalists over a couple of days in London, Frigulti shone in a series of challenges such as The Don Julio, an outside the box challenge using Don Julio tequila and a mystery box of ingredients, and The Walker of the World which challenged bartenders to become inspired by a particular country using Johnnie Walker. Once the group was whittled down to 10, an intense four cocktails in four minutes speed round took place and then the winner was finally announced.

Speaking after his victory, Frigulti said, “Wow, this is incredible; I’ve worked in this amazing industry for 5 years now and I’m so proud to be recognised like this for a career and industry I feel so lucky to be part of.”

So, what now? Well, Frigulti will fly the fag for Great Britain at the prestigious Diageo World Class Global Final in Shanghai from the 9th-13th September later this year. If he’s successful, there’s every chance he’ll be back at the British finals next year because Matt Arnold, 2023’s winner was in attendance dishing out his Dinosaur Food cocktail with Johnnie Walker Black Label front and centre.

If you want to follow this journey or perhaps even put yourself forward for next year, find more information on the @worldclassgreatbritain Instagram or website.

Do You Remember These Forgotten Classic Cocktails?!

Over the many years people have been imbibing, cocktail trends have come, gone, and come again multiple times. Throughout these cycles, and the memory obscuring nature of alcoholic beverages playing its role, many a mixed drink has slipped through the cracks into relative obscurity. This is not to say the drink is bad, however, as they were thoroughly enjoyed in their heyday. In fact, if every drink that fell out of fashion was in fact unenjoyable, then personalities like renowned cocktail historian Harry Craddock would become obsolete, and we could not be happier that this is not the case.

Craddock and co’s work allows home cocktail enthusiasts and professional bartenders alike to rediscover some of the best drinks of generations past. It often begs the question “How did this drink even fall out of fashion in the first place?”

In honour of our beloved historians, let us look at some classic cocktails that enjoyed the spotlight some years ago, but rarely see play in the bars of today.

ALAMAGOOZLUM

Similar to many American classic cocktails of its era, this cocktail's time and place accreditations are muddy. However, while we may not know who created it, it was popularised by John Pierpoint Morgan Sr. more popularly known as J.P. Morgan.

Like the cocktail, the word Alamagoozlum itself has unclear origins, with some sources stating it to be a stand-in for doohickey or thingamabob, while others claim it to be a French-Canadian-American term for maple syrup.

What can be said for sure is that the drink is just as unique as its namesake. Created by the founder of a worldwide financial conglomerate, it initially served as a batched punch recipe to serve five cocktails. It also has the oddity of being shaken with an egg white despite a distinct lack of citrus and all other ingredients being spirits, liqueurs, or bitters. Normally, a drink with such a recipe would be stirred over ice.

This cocktail is not one for the faint of heart either, with punchy ingredients such as genever and Jamaican pot still rum forming the base, and seasoned with healthy pours of Yellow Chartreuse and Angostura bitters. If sweet and herbaceous sounds like a little bit of you we recommend giving this one a go!

Ingredients
20ml Genever
15ml Jamaican Pot Still Rum
15ml Yellow Chartreuse
5ml Orange Curacao
5ml Angostura Bitters
10ml 2:1 Simple Syrup (15ml if using 1:1 Simple)
20ml Water (Trust me)
15ml Egg Whites or foamer of choice

Method
Combine all ingredients into a shaker tin. Shake without ice, and then with ice. Strain into a cocktail coupe. Garnish with a pineapple wedge.

DEATH IN THE AFTERNOON

Contrary to popular belief, this drink is not named after the Ernest Hemingway novel, it was created by the man himself. The original drink called for “1 jigger (45ml) of absinthe” and “iced champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness.” As we are well aware, Hemingway was not a man for just one casual drink, his instructions state to “Drink 3 to 5 of these slowly.”

Like many Hemingway cocktails, the modern spec had to be adjusted to suit the palate of today, as his spirit-forward, zero-sugar approach results in a harshly dry, unpleasing drinking experience. Even with the toned-down pour, and a splash of sugar, the drink remains absinthe forward, with rich notes of anise and candied fennel seeds in the spotlight. The sharp acidity and brioche/biscuit notes of the champagne add a reprieve from the potency of the absinthe, and the lemon twist garnish adds a lingering freshness to the nose. We would not recommend having 3 to 5 of these, but we recommend one!

Ingredients
10ml Absinthe
5ml 2:1 Simple Syrup (7.5ml if using 1:1 Simple Syrup)
Top with Champagne

Method
Combine absinthe and simple syrup in a mixing tin and stir until cold. Strain into a champagne flute. Top with champagne. Garnish with lemon zest.

SATURN

This gin-based tiki drink with a storied history gives rum a run for its money. Created by California bartender, J. “Popo” Galsini, it was originally called the X-15, after an American rocket-powered aircraft. However, the drink required a change of name as shortly after the advent of the drink, an X-15 pilot suffered a fatal crash. Galsini renamed the drink Saturn after the rocket of the first Apollo space flight.

Under the name Saturn, Galsini submitted the drink to the International Bartender’s Association World Championship in 1967, in which he placed first. The drink enjoyed its moment in the spotlight during the tiki boom in mid-century America, after which it faded into obscurity, and would more than likely have been lost forever were it not for famed tiki cocktail historian Jeff “Beachbum” Berry. Berry came across a commemorative glass in a thrift shop in Southern California, and opted not to purchase it, but took a picture of the recipe listed on the glass, and then included it in his recipe book “Beachbum Berry Remixed”.

This publication caused a mild resurgence of the cocktail and can now be seen in the deep cuts of cocktail bars. Much like the Pina Colada, the Saturn falls into the category of can be shaken but is much better blended. The rich tropical combination of Falernum, Orgeat, and Passionfruit syrup gives this drink unmatchable crushability making it easy to see off multiple in one sitting. The drink is traditionally garnished with a cherry and lemon peel on a cocktail skewer resembling Saturn and its rings, however, for ease of recreation, a simple cherry and lemon wedge will suffice.

Method
Combine all ingredients in a blender. Blend with ice until slushy. Served in a sling glass. Garnish with a cherry and lemon slice.
OR
Combine all ingredients in a shaker tin. Shake over ice. Strain into a highball glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with a cherry and lemon slice.

ANGEL FACE

This pre-prohibition cocktail comes from Harry Craddock’s “The Savoy Cocktail Book” with little else other than a recipe. Many have tried to use external sources to find out more about the origin of this drink but to no avail.

A lack of history does not make this drink any less delicious though. A simple foolproof recipe of three ingredients in equal parts brilliantly displays the keystone bartending principle of simplicity in execution and complexity in flavour. The original recipe calls for the drink to be shaken, and modern bartenders will tell you it should be stirred, however, my preferred serve is to combine all three ingredients with water for dilution and store in the freezer beforehand. This results in a drink with the appropriate amount of dilution and a rich silky texture which matches the flavour of the drink itself.

This is a rich, sweet, spirit-forward cocktail and makes an excellent summer sipper for Manhattan drinkers. Rich apple and apricot notes star on the palate with seasonings being offered from the botanicals of the gin.

Ingredients
25ml London Dry Gin
25ml Calvados
25ml Apricot Brandy

Method
Combine all ingredients in a mixing tin. Stir over ice. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or apple slice.

LA LOUISIANE

With a name like this, it comes as no surprise that this classic cocktail originated from the French quarter of New Orleans. This drink was the signature cocktail of Restaurant de la Louisiane, one of the hallmark French restaurants of New Orleans.

The modern recipe is an adaptation of the one listed in Stanley Clisby Arthur’s 1937 publication “Famous New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ‘Em” and has the distinctive DNA of a Manhattan - Rye Whiskey and Sweet Vermouth, alongside various modifiers. These modifiers include Benedictine, Absinthe, and Peychauds Bitters, resulting in a sweeter take on a timeless classic a rich herbaceous character.

This cocktail serves as an excellent alternative to the classic Manhattan for the winter months as the Benedictine offers a lovely warmth, with the Peychauds bringing a complex winter spice character.

Similar to the aforementioned Angel Face, this is another cocktail viable in the freezer-door category. Precombining all the ingredients with 10% of the total volume in water, and storing it in the freezer for later drinking makes for easy drinking after a long shift, or good for serving a large crowd without having to remove yourself from the social for too long.

Ingredients
30ml Bottled-in-Bond Rye Whiskey
30ml Sweet Vermouth (Ideally Italian)
15ml Benedictine D.O.M.
2.5ml Absinthe
2 Dashes Peychaud’s Bitters

Method
Combine all ingredients in a mixing tin. Stir over ice. Strain into a Nick & Nora Glass. Garnish with a cherry.

CULROSS

Yet another drink with an unknown origin, this cocktail is named after the Scottish village and former royal burgh, Culross. The earliest documentation of this drink comes from the bible of forgotten classic cocktails; Harry Craddock’s “The Savoy Cocktail Book”. This cocktail calls for Kina Lillet in the original recipe but has since stopped production and is no longer available. As a substitute, we recommend Lillet Blanc or Bordiga Vermut Bianco.

The drink is dry, and lightly sour with a rich fruity backbone owing to the aromatised wine and Apricot Brandy. The rum comes in the mid-palate to bring an alcoholic punch, and the touch of lemon juice brings much-needed freshness to the drink.

Ingredients
30ml Light Rum
30ml Apricot Brandy
30ml Blanc Vermouth
7.5ml Lemon Juice

Method
Combine all ingredients in a shaker tin. Shake with ice. Strain into a cocktail coupe. Garnish with an orange zest.

DAISY DE SANTIAGO

This summer refresher is an adapted recipe from Charles H. Baker Jr.’s book “The Gentleman’s Companion Volume II - An Exotic Drinking Book” (1939). The passage it is mentioned in states that it was served in a special skyscraper the Bacardi distillery had erected in Cuba, where they would invite various travellers to come and imbibe various Bacardi-based cocktails. The passage also states that this cocktail is “along with the immortal Daiquiri, …. The best Bacardi drink on record.”

The drink reads as a potent variation of the Canchanchara - a daiquiri with honey as opposed to sugar syrup. The Yellow Chartreuse adds rich honey sweetness and complexity from its proprietary blend of botanicals, with the rum and lemon juice forming the main flavour profile of the drink.

Ingredients
60ml Light Rum
22.5ml Lemon Juice
7.5ml Yellow Chartreuse
7.5ml 2:1 Simple Syrup (10ml if using 1:1 Simple Syrup)
5ml Yellow Chartreuse to float on top

Method
Combine all ingredients except the last 5ml of Yellow Chartreuse in a shaker tin. Shake over ice. Strain into a highball glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with Yellow Chartreuse float, seasonal berries, and a mint sprig.

By Fowwaz Ansari

Is Wine Healthy and Good For You?

If you love your wine, then you’ll definitely have wondered how healthy it actually is. You’ll probably also have heard different things about, for example, red wine’s health benefits, and more so than anything, you’ll have hoped that all the good stuff is true, and the bad stuff is exaggerated. Let’s get to the bottom of it once and for all.

Research into this area has been ongoing for a long time, but dietitian Cynthia Sass recently published a medically reviewed article for Health.com that makes for very interesting reading. Ruby reds, with Pinot Noir leading the charts, contain significantly more antioxidants than other styles. These have numerous benefits including protection from free radicals which cause skin damage, skin elasticity, heart disease protection and so on.

Red wines like this can also boost good cholesterol whilst decreasing bad cholesterol, with moderate consumption linked to a 12% increase in good cholesterol. But the boons don’t end there. Resveratrol is a polyphenol found in grape skins, but mainly red grapes and Pinot Noir has up to 16mg per litre. It’s been linked to plenty of health benefits including reductions in the risks of certain cancers.

White wines enjoyed far less skin contact time during their production, so miss out on many of these benefits. However, if you adore whites, then dry whites with less sugar are the healthier choice – certainly more than many spirits and cocktails.

One style of wine that also stands out as a bit of a winner for your health is orange wine, described in this latest research as the second healthiest after reds. There is plenty of skin contact to achieve the beautiful orange colouring, which results in a boost for antioxidants and polyphenols. Not as good as reds, but better than whites.

The other main piece of advice, no matter the wine style, is to try and go for organic. The full benefits aren’t yet known, but it’s believed that the reduced chemical-usage and pollution is not only better for the environment but better for you too.

Now, that’s the goodness that can be contained in wine covered, but of course, it isn’t plain sailing into the sun – far from it. Where we mentioned clearer, younger-looking skin earlier; well, excessive alcohol actually damages the skin. And this example highlights the most important thing to remember, that, let’s face it, we probably all knew anyway – moderation is the key.

So much of the research concerning the benefits of alcohol and wine is in development or conflicting and we just can’t be absolutely sure. Most researchers agree that ‘red wine in moderation’ doesn’t do much harm and is most likely to be fairly good for you for the reasons stated above – yippee! However, the negative effects of continued, excessive alcohol consumption are far more studied and known about – weight gain, strokes, liver damage, blood pressure, heart damage, cancers and so on.

In conclusion, you can sleep easy knowing that the most popular way to enjoy wine (a glass with dinner) on multiple days of the week is okay, and if it’s an organic, dry red then there’s every chance it’s good for you too. But don’t get your hopes up that this and this alone will keep you healthy. For example, it may be possible to get these same wine benefits from grape juice or grapes themselves, and it’s certainly possible to get them from other sources that are proven to be fantastic for your health like exercise and vegetables.

To finish with a bit of positivity, we want to remind you that researchers have also looked into the benefits of the act of drinking wine itself. Enjoying a wine that you find delicious, particularly with complimentary food and socialising with friends is beneficial to overall health. Not only is it fundamentally enjoyable, which is what life is all about, but experiencing this is also great for your health and mood.

La Fête: America’s Hottest Rosé Arrives in the UK

The wine industry has historically been something of a closed club, dominated and often gatekept by white men. Things are improving and diversifying with many more exceptional women winemakers and people of colour rising through the ranks, setting up their own businesses and paving the way for more of the same from future generations. Nonetheless, there remains lots of work to be done. Still today, only around 1% of wine producers in America are black-owned for example. One person blazing the trail is Founder and CEO of La Fête Wine Company, Donae Burston.

After a high-profile career with LVMH working in and amongst some of the world’s most prestigious wine brands, and experiencing directly the feeling of being an outsider, Donae wanted to create something of his own. Whilst celebrating his 30th in Saint Tropez, he first had a taste of pristine Provence Rosé and his path was forged in that moment.

La Fête’s mission is to bring exceptional Provence to the world and revitalise wine culture to make it accessible and inclusive to more people. Since launching in only 2019, they’ve made staggering progress on both these fronts, taking the US by storm and securing partnerships with a selection of the finest restaurants there. They’ve also put their money where their mouth is on the ground, using sale proceeds to create travel experiences and industry opportunities for underrepresented young people, so not only are they setting an inspirational example for the BIPOC community, but they’re financially supporting them too. Bravo.

Striking a partnership with the renowned Château Saint-Maur, one of only 18 Cru Classé estates in Provence, La Fête now have a coveted trio in their name – first the Rosé, then the Blanc and finally the Rouge. Their flagship La Fête du Rosé was the only wine in its category to be awarded the Double Gold medal at last year’s highly regarded World Wine & Spirits Competition.

A pale blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, vivid stone fruits tantalise on the nose, where you also get a sense of slight minerality. In the mouth, the precise blend of exotic fruits explodes with juicy flavours and incredible refreshment, with subtle nutty depth rounding the profile off.

In the US, Rosé has long been marketed as a summer sipper for women, unlike France where it’s enjoyed by all at any time of year. To change entrenched perceptions like this, the wine itself needs to be good enough so that everyone wants to drink it, and they can’t wait until summer to do so. As the fastest-growing imported luxury Rosé in the country, La Fête have clearly cracked it.

And now, the hype is crossing over from the Atlantic, as UK Sommelier Wine Awards’ Fine Wine Merchant of the Year winner Top Selection are making the full trilogy available in the UK exclusively through them.  If you’re interested in Provence Wine and want to taste La Fête’s offering, then you’ll be able to from June onwards – in other words, any day now!

For more information about La Fête Wine Company, explore their website here!

Is This The Rarest Bottle of Whisky Ever Made?

Saturday 15th June marks the Trooping of the Colour which is the annual celebration of the Sovereign’s official birthday… even though that is in fact November 14th, so King Charles gets two birthdays. Despite turning 75 last November, he’s had to wait until this ‘official birthday’ to receive an incredibly special gift.

Officially launched at Wiltons restaurant in St James’s, rare spirits specialist The Last Drop Distillers have partnered with artist Mark Evans to release a commemorative pairing of exquisite, blended Scotch and Coronation Portraits. One pair have been gifted to the King himself, but the other one headed to Sotheby’s auction where £170,000 was raised for charity. It’ll be reauctioned next year too, with an increased estimated value close to £500,000 – so get saving!

First, the artworks. They’re giant hand-etched leather canvas portraits of The King based on his famous Time magazine cover. 1/10th of a millimetre is painstakingly carved into the leather with surgical precision, gradually revealing the iconic photo of the King. The artwork will be displayed at Sladmore Gallery over the summer.

Now, what we’re here for at The Three Drinkers, this enigmatic whisky blend. Named the ‘Blend of 75’, each year of Charles’ life is represented with 75 different Scotch Whiskies from all four corners of Scotland. Master Blender Colin Scott led the concept, selecting carefully from The Last Drop’s inventory of maturing barrels and including malts, blends and grains. Renowned distilleries like The Glenlivet and Laphroaig all contribute to the blend, as well as 19 lost distilleries such as Glenlochy and Imperial.

Dressed smartly in embossed green leather, the Blend of 75 shows off a enchanting golden amber hue reflecting the fact that some of the whiskies used are over half a century old. The nose has been described as a rich mix of apricots, red apples and figs combined with liquorice, honey sweetness and warm spice. This richness continues on the palate with notes of fruitcake, ripe cherries, orangey spice and toffee vanilla before a warm, lingering hug of a finish. It sounds deliciously Christmassy to us, but probably a tad too expensive as a Christmas gift to anyone. There are 10 limited edition drams made during this detailed bottling process being sold at Wiltons for £10,000 too, raising even more money for charity. The combined cost of the exceptionally rare whisky and portrait is estimated to collect £471,000, but no one quite knows until the day itself so keep your eyes peeled for this premium Sotheby’s auction sometime next year.

12 of the Best Wines for English Wine Week 2024

Image credit: Will Wong

Mention English wine and you may get three types of responses. Preaching to the converted, still an overall minority; or those who remember trying a few sparklers, usually from the big and established producers. The rest didn’t even know wines are made in England, or believe they are generally overpriced and not very good. Does that resonate with your experience?

In fact, there are now almost a thousand vineyards scattered across England alone, including over 200 commercial wineries. The paradox of climate change and global warming has benefited English vineyards in general. In 2022, total production was up by 36% year-on-year. 2023 saw a bumper harvest in which the UK experienced higher-than-ever yields and bunch numbers due to the volume of rain throughout the growing season. So, the only way is up, right?

What is the English Wine Week?

Image credit: Will Wong

The first English Wine Week (EWW) was launched in 2006 when Laura Rhys MS was a sommelier struggling to convince consumers of the merits of English sparkling. Now, Rhys, a brand ambassador for Gusbourne Estate, can legitimately pitch the Fifty-One Degrees North, Gusbourne’s prestige cuvée (and the most expensive English wine on the UK market at £195), against the likes of Dom Perignon. In just under three decades, the English wine scene has progressed by leaps and bounds. 

In 2024, EWW officially runs from Saturday 15th to Sunday 23rd June. Producers and vineyards across the land, including the four urban wineries in London are throwing parties and special popup events. It is the perfect opportunity to spend your holidays and weekends with a stay or trip to your local vineyard, celebrating at a wine festival, and then taking home a couple of bottles to share your experience with friends. The WineGB website has a dedicated page on how to get the most out of EWW 2024.

To mark this special occasion, this bumper edition takes you on a tasting tour with twelve very different wines from Suffolk to the Crouch Valley in Essex (one of the most sought after vine-growing spots), then through Kent and Sussex to Dorset and finally weather-permitting tropical Cornwall. You might see a few familiar and favourite labels, and be surprised by others. Above all, we wish to champion some lesser known but worthy contenders on the ever expanding English wine stage; not just at home but extending far and wide to the United States, Scandinavia and Japan.

The Best English White Wines

In volume terms, still wines account for around a third in total production compared with sparkling. The marginal climate and erratic weather patterns in Britain do not ensure consistent ripening conditions for grapes; at least before the 1980s. Vine-growers back then experimented with German varietals such as the white Müller-Thurgau and Reichensteiner, which had a higher chance of early ripening in cooler climates. It is also much more challenging to make decent still wines with unripe grapes and their overt acidity.

Wine writer Henry Jeffreys recalled the trailblazer Gillian Pearkes with her 1981 book ‘Vinegrowing in Britain’: while everyone else was looking to Germany for inspiration, she saw that France and specifically Champagne and Chablis could be a model for viticulture in England. As well writing on the subject, Pearkes planted her own vineyard at Yearlstone in Devon, acted as mentor to Bob Lindo at Camel Valley in Cornwall and encouraged Stuart and Sandy Moss at Nyetimber: “Find the right site and you will grow Chardonnay in England,” 

Four decades on, Chardonnay and Bacchus (covered in our previous guides) are now the most planted white grapes in England. Although they are yet to gain comparable international standings as the sparklers, quality has improved beyond imagination as producers experiment with sites and signature styles. Below are two outstanding Chardonnay and two Pinot Gris (related to Pinot Grigio) with very different characters.

Simpsons Estate Chardonnay 2022, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

‘The only question that matters is who’s going to buy your wine’

~ Charles Simpson

Charles and Ruth Simpson started their wine business as Domaine Saint Rose in Languedoc, southern France in 2002. By 2012, they saw the potential and moved back to England. After buying a 12 hectares / 30-acre site with lime-rich chalk soil in the North Downs in Kent, similar to the terroir in Champagne and Burgundy, Simpsons’ Wine Estate was born. Followed by their own winery in 2016, they now own three vineyard sites covering 38 hectares / 112 acres. 

Whilst most new vineyard owners opted for the sparkling clones (safer for Britain’s cool climate but needs a much longer time span before any wines are ready to be released), Ruth Simpson hatched a bet with planting some non-sparkling clones; hoping to sell still wines before their first sparkling is ready for the market. The high-quality and bumper 2018 vintage firmly established the Simpsons brand. 

This unoaked Chardonnay seems to have two personalities. Those who love the classic lush tropical fruits on its nose will be drawn instantly. Or if you are ‘anything but Chardonnay’, the greatest surprise came when paired with smoked haddock risotto. It turned flinty with a long finish like a Chablis. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £12.74 (25% off £16.99 till 02/07/2024)

The Only Way is Essex

Tell your wine snob friends about ‘Grapes from Essex’ and raise a few eyebrows. Crouch Valley to be precise, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish and ripen beautifully to turn into premium still wines. No, this is not a joke about Essex. It is no secret to most in the wine trade that many of the UK’s best-known wine producers, from the southernmost vineyards of the country and all the way up north, are buying fruit from Essex and have done so for many years. Instead of the chalky soil at Simpsons in Kent, the River Crouch occupies a shallow valley between two ridges of London clay, and it is the combination of this deep and very particular London clay, the steep south-facing vineyards and the protected microclimate of this partially enclosed, tidal estuary that come together in creating this sweet spot as Tamlyn Currin observes.

From Brick Lane to River Crouch

Riverview Crouch Valley is the heart and soul of young husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil, who left their flat off Brick Lane in East London for rural Essex. Working with the highly respected viticulturist Duncan McNeill, the family converted 4 hectares / 11 acres of their arable land facing the River Crouch into a vineyard back in 2017. They make only single varietals: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as premium still wines; with Pinot Meunier in sparkling wines. 

After harvest, the grapes are transported to Devon-based Lyme Bay Winery who has been sourcing grapes from Essex, where winemakers James Lambert and Sarah Massey produce the wine for Riverview Crouch Valley. Their debut 2020 Chardonnay received critical acclaim from critics and buyers alike. At the end of 2023, Umut and Katie released their first 2021 Pinot Noir, along with their 2021 Chardonnay. In 2024 they will be launching their first sparkling wine, a 100% Pinot Meunier from 2021.

Riverview Crouch Valley Chardonnay 2021, Essex

Image credit: Will Wong

With its classic and simple label showing off the now famous River Crouch, this is one of England’s finest. There is not yet any typical English Chardonnay style. It does not try to be Burgundian or Australian / Californian. Despite its pale lemon appearance in the glass, the nose is lush with restrained tropical fruits. Nothing shouty here. Hints of vanilla comes through the brief oak ageing in old French barriques. The palate has subdued stone fruit with a little smokiness which is unusual for a Chardonnay. Whichever camp of ABC you belong to, this is a serious gastro wine that calls for your attention. A match made in heaven with roast chicken as Katie suggested, or even roast pork. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £36.00

Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris ‘Wild Ferment’ Free Run 2022, Devon

Image credit: Will Wong

Back in the 1960s, Maurice and Ruth Ash moved with their Jersey cows from Essex on the train to the Sharpham Estate over-looking the River Dart in South Devon. Over time, they planted some trial vines on the sunny south-facing slope in front of Sharpham House. Successes were steady with the next generation of vine-growers and winemakers in the Ash's nephew, Mark Sharman and Duncan Schwab, head winemaker and now CEO, who joined the team in 1992.

Then in 2008, Sharpham were approached by the owner of Sandridge Barton Estate on the eastern riverbank for help with planting vines on the basis that Sharpham might take the grapes. The terroir and its proximity was godsend to expand Sharpham’s acreage by 120%. And finally in 2020, Sharpham built its own solar-powered, with rain and waste-water harvesting 120,000 bottle capacity two-level winery adjacent to where the majority of the fruit is sourced. That culminated in the decision to relocate and rebrand as Sandridge Barton, with a fully-fledged visitor centre and cafe since 2022. 

Only 3300 bottles were released. Unfined, unfiltered with minimal sulphur, this experimental orange wine had two-week skin contact with indigenous yeast during fermentation. It is a little like the natural wines made with amphora from Georgia. Taut acidity with firm tannins. Due to the lees in the bottle, expect cloudiness so best stand the bottle upright for at least an hour before opening. Decant and serve at room temperature with Carpaccio. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 10.5%
Find here: £21.00

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2023, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Oast – a kiln for drying hops. Brook – a small natural stream.

Oastbrook is located on a beautiful farm by the banks of the River Rother, only a stone’s throw from Bodiam Castle in East Sussex. It had been owned by Guinness for the farming of hops as the Oast houses themselves were used for drying the hops. 

The wine estate is the brainchild of husband Nick and wife America Brewer who grew up in the Bahia region of Brazil. Nick used to work in finance internationally but retrained at Plumpton College as a winemaker. America was top of her year in plant biology on her BSc in viticulture and oenology at Plumpton. She planted her first vines at Oastbrook only in 2017. They tell their own story here.

Nick described their wines as America’s sunshine and charismatic personality in bottles. The couple passionately believe in sustainable ecology starting with soil health. “Learn from the grapes and don’t copy others” is their shared motto. With the range of activities and amenities on site, their dedication to the land, produce and community with business acumen is evident. 

Only 2250 bottles of the 2023 Pinot Gris were released. Its nose could easily fool you as a Riesling with hints of petrol. A full-bodied unoaked gastro wine with citrus acidity and a long mineral finish. Think Bacchus or Sauvignon Blanc with greater intensity and texture. It pairs well with sautéed king prawns and asparagus pasta tossed in pesto. Abundant substance to lay down for a couple of years. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.50

The Best English Rosé and Red Wines

Image credit: Will Wong

Haphazard weather means variation in grape ripeness from vintage to vintage. The earlier varietals such as Madeleine Angevine, Dornfelder, Regent or Rondo seem to have fallen out of fashion to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier which are used in making Traditional Method sparkling wines. But are rosés the answer to harnessing less than fully ripened black grapes? To date, there is no uniform signature English rosé style as in Provence. In global volume terms, English rosé is still a cottage industry through trial and error at the mercy of changing climate. When done well, there are hidden gems that are unique and not copycats of Provence or Italy. 

It is only in the last five years quality still wine is made out of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The amount of vineyards in Britain that are growing still wine grapes is probably in the low hundreds of hectares, which is the equivalent of one village in France worth of vineyard area. 

Producing a serious still Pinot Noir is even more demanding. Winemakers want the colour from the skin, which must be fully ripe – or they risk extracting harsh green tannins from it. It can be tricky to get the ripeness levels and style of fruit needed even with warmer summers over the last decade or so; according to Laura Rhys at Gusbourne. 

We have found four shining examples of English rosé and Pinot Noir well worth savouring.

Giffords Hall Rosé 2022, Suffolk

Image credit: Will Wong

Giffords Hall is a family owned vineyard planted on the site of an ancient glacial riverbed near Long Melford in Suffolk. The sandy/clay soil in the East Anglian desert as proprietor Linda Howard calls it produces quality grapes high in natural sugars and acids, that lend themselves particularly well to both sparkling and dry, aromatic still wines.

The Howards initially bought an established vineyard which is now 35 years old. The Giffords Hall label was officially launched in 2009 with a Rosé and a Bacchus still wine. Since 2020, Linda has managed the vineyard and winery with her daughter Ellie and son Harry together with a small team. 

In the bottle and glass, this rosé is very pale salmon pink from a careful blend of hand-picked Madeleine Angevine and Rondo, a deep red grape. Fresh strawberries on the nose and when served at 12ºC, it reveals its true flinty character which works beautifully with smoked wild Alaskan salmon and boiled new potatoes. Long finish. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.95

Folc Dry English Rosé 2023

Image credit: Will Wong

Husband-and-wife team Tom and Elisha Cannon decided to be an independent negociant sourcing the finest grapes grown on the best, family-owned and run vineyards across Kent, Suffolk and Sussex. Not restricted by historic rules or traditions, Folc was born in 2019 as an English rosé to rival the best from Provence. 

Folc makes only rosé; and in this case they have blended seven varieties of grapes from Pinot Noir to Bacchus and Ortega. Where the black grapes give the wine its ripe red fruit flavours of wild strawberries, raspberries and cranberries, the white grapes work in harmony to form an ensemble with a crisp and textural long finish. It is a serious pink gastro wine that compliments pan fried salmon wrapped in bacon with steamed greens. Serve well chilled.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £21.99

Knightor Portscatho Pinot Noir Précoce 2022, Cornwall

Image credit: Will Wong

The name Knightor is intriguing in itself. You can read about the history behind its brand here. Today, Knightor Winery is a boutique enterprise situated not far from the Eden Project and St Austell Brewery in Cornwall. They make premium quality, limited production English wines from grapes grown in English vineyards, and their own vines at Portscatho on the Roseland Peninsula, and Seaton on the south Cornish coast. It has also become an established Cornish wedding venue and rustic events space.

Retired IT professional Adrian Derx the owner is a down-to-earth entrepreneur. It is hard to imagine young winemaker David Brocklehurst already at the helm for twelve years and counting, creating a range of eclectic wines including a Riesling! Far more than just a vineyard with winery tours, there is also a restaurant and bar on site. and how about Sunday roast in their winery?

Its Alsatian or German style bottle, together with a distinctive cartography label really stands out. Unfined and unfiltered, so best stand the bottle upright for an hour before opening. Decant to separate its natural sediment and let the young wine open up. Dark fruits and bramble on the nose, followed by soft but well structured tannins and fresh acidity that will see this wine further develop over the next 2-3 years. A long and satisfying smoky finish that really puts Cornwall on the map for English wines. Pairs well with roast chicken or BBQ prawns. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £22.95

Davenport Redmoors Pinot Noir 2022, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Everyone in the UK wine trade has heard of the veteran vinegrower and wine maker Will Davenport, who began his career as a wine merchant in England in the 1980s. He then studied for a post-graduate diploma in oenology at Roseworthy College in Adelaide, South Australia. On returning to England, he worked at a vineyard in Hampshire with amazing grapes but very poor English wines no one wanted back then.

In 1991, Davenport planted his first five acres (two hectares) of vines at his parents’ apple farm in Horsmonden, Kent. He now owns 24 acres (10 hectares) across 5 plots, and fully converted to organic in 2000. Organic might sound admirable but remains a persistent challenge in the British cool climate with erratic rainfall patterns and humidity, making the vines prone to diseases. 

Firmly believing in the potential of great fruit from healthy vines, instead of using chemicals in the vineyard and winery, Davenport has been consistently creating both whites and reds with a depth of character. His wines inspired former music producer Adrian Pike to work as a winemaker under Will, before setting up his Westwell label. Other notable ex-apprentices include Peter Morgan (ex Nyetimber), Ben Walgate (ex Tillingham), and Ben Witchell (Flint in Norfolk). 

This Pinot Noir is sourced from the 5-acre organic Redmoors vineyard planted in 2016. Whole berries were fermented with natural yeasts, matured in oak for 18 months and bottled without filtration before release a further 20 months on. It is light in style comparable to a refined German Spätburgunder rather than the more intense Pinot Noir from Central Ortago, New Zealand or Oregon in the USA. Aromatic with complex red fruit and balanced acidity. 

Only 260 bottles were made.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £24.20

The Best English Sparkling Wine

Image credit: Will Wong

For anyone who is already familiar with English wine, chances are they tasted a sparkling at some point. The international success of English sparkling wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, when in the 1990s producers realised respectable bubblies could be made in the traditional method just like champagne, with the three classic grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grown in chalky soil across southeast England. 

That momentum was further confirmed in 2015 when Tattinger, one of the most respectable Champagne houses acquired land just outside Faversham in Kent. Planting of vines took place in May 2017, followed by Champagne Pommery launching its first English sparkling wine, made in partnership with Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. 

Over the last five years, UK production has been consistently ⅔ sparkling and ⅓ still, with 80% of plantings coming from Champagne varietals. To put in context, in the UK we produce 12 million bottles a year, Dom Perignon alone produces roughly 5 million, and it is this scarcity that contributes to the high price point of English wine. 

The question is: could the finest English sparkling match the quality and prestige of Champagne? 

Nyetimber Classic Cuveé, West Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

‘Nyetimber is possibly the most famous of all the English sparkling wine producers, largely because of the reputation they built up on the first wines they made in the early 1990s. These were the first bottles that made people realise that English sparkling wine wasn’t just good: it could be world class.’ Dr Jamie Goode 

The Nyetimber effect actually traces back to an anglophile couple from Chicago, Sandy and Stuart Moss who knew little about winemaking. In the 1980s, they spotted a gap in quality sparkling wine. After investing in a hugely professional operation with premium style exclusivity as focus, their first wine made from Chardonnay planted in 1988 and made in 1992, won best sparkling wine in England. Their second, a blend of all three classic grapes from 1993, won best non-champagne sparkling wine in the world at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in 1998. The couple returned to the US in 2001, and Nyetimber has since had two changes in ownership and management. 

Under the stewardship of Eric Heerema, Cherie Spriggs at Nyetimber was the first non-Champenois and woman winemaker to win the prestigious ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ award at the International Wine Challenge 2018. Hence, the Nyetimber range has become a benchmark for English sparkling the world over.  

Nowadays, Nyetimber owns more vines than most of the major label Champagne houses. They are able to source vastly contrasting parcels of fruit in producing as many as 115 batches of base wine across their three county holdings. This advantage enables multi-vintage blending to create a consistent ‘house style’, which is common practice for the established Champagne houses across the Channel.

The Classic Cuveé is the flagship multi-vintage blend with mostly Chardonnay, followed by Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If you want to know the precise details, look at the back label and you will find a very long number in the bottom left corner. On its website, you could submit that to reveal a precise chronology of each bottle, detailing the important moments of bottling, riddling and disgorging.

With a bouquet of baked apples and toasted brioche, it has balanced acidity with a creamy mouthful and lemon pastry that outshines many non-vintage (NV) Champagne at a similar price point. When stored correctly (on its side, in darkness away from direct light and heat), most NV sparkling wine should continue to evolve with complexity and intensity. It pairs effortlessly with smoked salmon, sushi, oysters, scallops and even asparagus. Serve well chilled. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: On offer at £29.00, down from £42 till 25/06/2024.

Nyetimber Cuveé Chérie Demi-Sec, West Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

It is no coincidence we are recommending two Nyetimber; for the above is a totally different experience. Made with 100% Chardonnay, it’s off dry and yet refreshing. The very fine bubbles offer an inviting biscuity nose followed by lemon zest on the palate. Try it with fruit tarts, custard tarts and Pasteis de nata, Crème Brûlée or strong blue cheeses. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42.99 or £29.99 Mix Six 

Busi Jacobsohn Blanc de Noirs 2018, East Sussex

Image credit: Will Wong

Busi Jacobsohn is a modern fairy tale where Swedish-born Douglas Jacobsohn and his Italian-born wife Susanna Busi fell in love with Blackdorn Farm in Eridge. Across their five hectares, they planted an equal split of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, leaving 20% to Pinot Meunier.

Douglas spent most of his career in the marine insurance business. That perhaps explains his foresight in future-proofing by installing a drainage system beneath their vineyard, helping rainwater run off and letting their prized grapes ripen over the naturally heat-retaining sandstone. 

With the ethos of grower champagnes, they only produce single estate vintage wines not relying on blending to create a house style. 

The 2018 Blanc de Noirs is made with handpicked Pinot Noir (78%) and Pinot Meunier (22%). It is effervescent with balanced red apple acidity and mild toast on the palate. Bone dry with medium finish which is expected to further develop over 3-5 years. Pairs well with creamy crab pasta and Comté; but not Gorgonzola as Susanna advised; and she was absolutely right.

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £48.00

Gusbourne 2015 Late Disgorged Brut Reserve, Kent

Image credit: Will Wong

Everything about Gusbourne is premium. Its name is associated with John de Goosebourne’s Appledore estate first mentioned in 1410. South African orthopaedic surgeon Andrew Weeber bought this site in 2003, with their first release in 2010. Nowadays, the company is listed on the Alternative Investment Market (AIM), with Lord Ashcroft as the main shareholder of the Gusbourne Estate. The vines now spread across 60 hectares (150 acres) at Appledore with the winery, and a further 30 hectares (75 acres) in West Sussex near Greenwood.

Gusbourne only produces vintage still and sparkling wines; with no intention of blending. Long lees ageing is the norm that results in softened acidity with added complexity. Their range of sparkling wine is impressive in quality whose unique characters come alive when you have a food pairing seasonal lunch on site. Or you could have a relaxed picnic among the vines.

Our last showcase of the dozen is truly a special occasion gem. First tasted when Laura Rhys offered at the 2022 WineGB tasting, it was once sipped, forever smitten.

63% Chardonnay and 37% Pinot Noir went into this late disgorged marvel. Light gold in colour with a fine mousse and aromas of citrus peel, alongside brioche and biscuit notes. Due to extended lees ageing, the palate is creamy and complex with flavours of buttered toast and delicate spice leading to a long, intense and unforgettable finish. Perfect with roast chicken, seared tuna steaks or rich vegetarian moussaka. 

Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £105.00

The Future of English Wine

The quality of English sparkling wine (ESW) is firmly established against their Champagne counterparts. If you were to taste blind, you might surprise yourself to find your favourite pick turn out to be an ESW. However, with the average spend on a bottle of wine being under £7 in the UK, it is highly unlikely that a typical household sees an ESW as part of essential weekly shopping. That takes us to the emerging and ever improving still wines; which form the first two-thirds of this special English Wine Week edition. 

Production volume is minuscule by global standards with export markets still in their infancy. With high labour and production costs, and escalating prime land prices, English wine will never be able to compete with Argentina, Chile or South Africa on price alone. Output has to rise substantially, which again depends on the vintage. In the long run, entry level English still wines might need to find a price point below £15 to entice consumers to give them a try; against the infinite choices from around the world between £8-£15 on the shelves.

Many producers quietly celebrate global warming and climate change as warmer temperatures help their grapes ripen sufficiently to make quality still wines. According to a new report by the World Weather Attrition Group, Britain will increasingly see monsoon-like rains over the next decade, as well as more frequent hail storms and even “mini tornadoes”. UK regions with the highest average temperatures, particularly those in southern and central England, are likely to see the worst storms. These cast an omen for a burgeoning industry about to enter its next critical growth phase. Suddenly, looking after the soil and vines is no longer enough when dealing with climate chaos. Big Data sharing should help collective resilience through mitigation and adaptation strategies. 

Does anyone know the role of AI in viticulture and winemaking in our brave new world of the unknown?

Great Books to Read About English Wine

Vines in a Cold Climate: The People Behind the English Wine Revolution by Henry Jeffreys

Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year 2024. When was the last time you read a page-turner on wine? This is it. Opinionated but witty. Thoroughly researched without being academic. It is like a friend who’s had too much to drink telling you who’s who and done what. 

The Vineyards of Britain: Cellar Door Adventures with the Best of Britain’s Wines by Ed Dallimore

How did Ed do it? Lost count of how many vineyards are actually featured in this compendium with stunning imagery, lucid and personable writing reflecting thorough research and his empathy with the characters behind the wine labels.

By Will Wong