What you Should be Drinking with Curry

Words by Helena Nicklin

If, like us, you’re feeling brave enough to try takeaways again, you may be in the mood for a proper Indian takeaway after all that home cooking. Here’s your need-to know guide to the best drinks to have with Britain's most popular curry dishes:

BEER

First thing’s first: spice is not a huge fan of wine, which is why beer (lager specifically), is a great ‘catch-all’ drink to quench a thirst. Why is this? Served cold, the bubbles freshen the palate instantly and importantly, the alcohol is not very high when compared to wine or spirits, so it doesn't fan the flames of the chilli. You don’t want one that’s too gassy though. Here are three that we love:

The Not-Too-Gassy BEER: Cobra Extra Smooth

Stomachs get full pretty quickly with a big takeaway curry and Cobra comes top of the charts when it comes to lager that’s not too gassy. It’s also smooth with enough flavour to complement the food without getting lost. Perfect for lovers of lager and ale alike as it’s somewhere between the two. You can get 12 x 330ml for £32.95 here.

The Gluten Free, Fruit Beer: Jubel Beer

Made in a ‘demi-peche’ style, these ‘dangerously refreshing’ beers are low in alcohol (4%), vegan and infused with natural fruit. They come in peach, elderflower and grapefruit and are good for those who don’t normally drink beer as they’re quite heavy on the sweet fruit. They’re ridiculously drinkable though, non-gassy and those fruity notes that will help balance some of that heat. They’re excellent value too. Stock up with a case of 12 x 330ml for £25 here and here.

The Alcohol Free Beer: Heineken Alcohol Free (0.0%)

More fruity and gently malty than the alcohol version, this lager is exceptionally easy drinking and actually tastes like beer rather than cardboard- something that many other brands cannot say about their de-alcoholised drinks! £29.95 for 24 x 330ml here and most supermarkets.

WINE

When it comes to wine and curry, you have to be a little careful as tannin and high alcohol can jar with the food horribly, exacerbating heat and clashing with the flavours, but there are some matches that work well. Ripe and off-dry styles of wine will help fan the flames of all sorts of curries and the lower in alcohol they are, the better. Here are some to try...

Best All-Rounder

You need: Fruity Rosé

For a reliable style of wine with curry, make it pink and uber juicy, so the sweetness in the fruit counterbalances any heat. It works for most styles of curry, especially Lamb Bhuna. You could find any French Rosé d’Anjou, which will always have a touch of residual sugar and tonnes of ripe, red fruit. If you are after something a bit different and more sophisticated however, try this little number from Lyme Bay winery in Devon. It’s packed full of ripe cherry and strawberry aromas and flavours, with a quintessentially English, redcurrant twist. Technically off-dry, though you won’t notice it because the high acidity will refresh your palate while the fruit sweetness balances the spice. 

Find it: Lyme Block English Rosé, £9.99 from ALDI. 

Best for: Aloo Gobi, Jalfrezi, Green Curries, Dhal

You need: Vinho Verde

Vinho Verde is a famous style of wine from northern Portugal that is traditionally light in alcohol and has a slight spritz. They can be dangerous in the summer for lunchtime drinking as you can find yourself cracking into a second bottle without a thought. This one by Varzea is just 9.5%, slightly off dry and with zingy, limey flavours and a crisp, green apple skin nose. A great one for green curries and anything with lots of vegetables.

Find it: Varzea Vinho Verde, £7.99 (£6.99 mix six price) from Majestic.

Best for: Korma, Butter Chicken and mild, creamy curries

You need: Chardonnay 

Find a Chardonnay that’s particularly fruity as opposed to a more Chablis-esque style. Chardonnay can be famously buttery and a small touch of oak here could work wonders with the umami notes from the curry. New Zealand or Chile are good places to go for this sort of style and we love this one by The King’s Legacy as it has a rich creaminess thanks to lees ageing, a touch of savoury oak and a gorgeous dollop of fruit.

Find it: The King’s Legacy Chardonnay, £15.99 (£11.99 mix 6 price) from Majestic.

Best for: Madras, Tikka Masala and tomato-rich curries

You need: Soft, tangy, juicy reds

A few grapes could do this job, Merlot, Shiraz/Syrah and Carmenère being right up there as long as they are not oaked too much or too high in alcohol. I am a particular fan of the Sangiovese grape with tomato-based curries. Tomatoes are a tricky wine match but the Italians have overcome this with pizzas and ragus thanks to this native Italian grape. High acidity, low tannin and a rustic earthiness make this a great match here. I’d avoid Chianti (Sangiovese is the Chianti grape) and go for a straight up, youthful wine like this little Sangiovese blend, ‘Il Caretto’ from Puglia. Bright fruit, refreshing, light on its feet and tangy. 

Find it: Il Caretto, IGT Rosso di Puglia, £8.25 from Corney and Barrow

SPIRITS

Spirits alone would be a no-no with curry until you want to set your mouth on fire, but diluted with a mixer and a handful of ice  - it’s a whole other story. Try these combinations.

Best for: Rogan Josh or Biriyani

You need: Cognac + Ginger Ale

A classic VS or VSOP cognac with a 150ml of ginger ale and ice is just perfect with a medium to hot, meaty curry like a Rogan Josh or a rice dish with mince meat and spice, like a Biryani. Avoid ginger beer as it will be too sweet, so ale is the way forward. The rich citrus tones from the cognac marry perfectly with ginger and complement the warm spices of the dish.

Find this: Frapin VS Cognac, £40 from here.

Drink it with this: Schweppes Ginger Ale. 12 x 150ml for £4.09 from Waitrose.

Best for: Vindaloo

You need: Vodka & Lemonade

This famously hot curry won’t leave much room for flavour in drinks, so go clear for the spirits and clear for the mixer, preferably a sweet one. With lots of ice! Vodka and lemonade is your answer, with a twist of real lemon to add to the acidity and freshness. We love Grey Goose original for its creamy, smooth texture with classic, Schweppes lemonade.

Find this: Grey Goose Original Vodka, £32.99 from here.

Drink it with this: Schweppes lemonade, 12 x 150ml, £10.99 from here. 

5 Things You Never Knew About Bordeaux

Bordeaux is one of the most famous wine regions on the planet and home to some truly stunning stories. Alas, there are some stories hidden within the vines that you may not have heard, stories that only continue to add to the wonder and splendour of this vino-paradise. With that said, I decided to unearth just a few of these tales and arm you with a little more know-how when it comes to Bordeaux! Cheers!

One Minute Wine Ace: Sauvignon Blanc

Words by Helena Nicklin

Sauvignon Blanc. Arguably the most recognisable white grape variety around and the ‘Marmite’ of wines; you either love it or you hate it. This zesty grape is all about cut grass, nettles, gooseberry and wet stone flavours with distinctive aromas that fans describe as elderflower, dissenters as cat pee. It’s an English Country Garden on a crisp, spring morning with its wet stone pathways and damp fern aromas!

Sauvignon Blanc Tasting Tour

Get to know this grape by trying versions from the locations most famous for it:

The Loire Valley, France

France’s Loire Valley is Sauvignon Blanc’s original home, and the villages of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé are two of the most famous names. This is where you’ll find the classic, more reserved style with nettley notes and a mineral tang. Wines from Pouilly Fumé also often have a flinty, smokiness to them thanks to the soil (‘fumé’ means ‘smoked’ in French). Try also wines from Touraine and Menetou-Salon for inexpensive, refreshing versions. 

Marlborough, New Zealand

Sauvignon Blanc has a permanent holiday home in Marlborough, which is now now arguably even more famous than Sancerre. Equally happy here as it is in France, the flavour volume is turned right up and someone has brought out the tinned asparagus and tropical fruit! You can’t do Sauvignon Blanc without trying one from Marlborough.

Casablanca Valley & Leyda Valley, Chile 

For amazing value, with more savoury, smoked grapefruit notes (and sometimes, a little bit of farmer’s armpit), head to cool-climate Chile. Casablanca Valley and Leyda Valley are two regions to look out for, the former offering inexpensive, fruity Sauvignon and the latter, more of a step up in style.

Bordeaux, France

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the two key white grapes of Bordeaux. Here it’s usually blended with Sémillon and oaked a bit to make gorgeously weighty, tropical dry whites as well as sweet whites: enter, Sauternes!

Napa Valley, California

Napa Valley, California - for dry, Sauvignon /Sémillon blends, just like in Bordeaux.

Want some suggestions? These are tried and tested!

• Sancerre, ‘Le Fort’, Fouassier, 2018. £24.99 (£19.99 mix 6 price), Majestic

• Menetou-Salon, Le Clos du Pressoir Vignobles Joseph Mellot 2018. £18.75 Corney & Barrow 

• Pouilly Fumé, ‘Les Chaumiennes’, A&E Figeat, 2018. £18.25 Corney & Barrow

• Olivier Dubois, cuvée prestige Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine, 2018. £9.99 (£8.99 mix 6) Majestic

• Yealands Sauvignon Blanc, £7 on offer at Sainsburys

• Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, £11.59 Waitrose

• Dourthe, La Grand Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, £9.49, Ocado

• Co-op Irresistible Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley, £7, Co-op.

• Coyote Mint Sauvignon-Semillon, Napa valley, £13.99 on offer at Laithwaites

Which wine for storecupboard snacks?

Today was a proud day. Helena got to write for the nation’s most popular newspaper: The Sun. And what better subject could there be than wine to go with your isolation diet? Here’s a version of what she wrote where you’ll discover the perfect wine matches for everything from curry pot noodle to cereal.

You’re welcome.

Egg and Chips

Wine: Exquisite Vintage Cava, £6.49, Aldi 

Bubbles with eggs is the ultimate posh brunch, so channel the Windsors as you get stuck into eggs and chips with cava. Forget prosecco; it’s too sweet for this. Cava however is affordable, Spanish fizz made just like champagne but with different, local grapes. Cool bubbles will freshen everything up and its savoury, toasty notes will stand up to the chips. 

Curry Pot Noodle

Wine: Freeman’s Bay, New Zealand Pinot Gris, £5.99, Aldi

For maximum experience with minimum effort, match your curry Pot Noodle to the perfect vino. You’ll need a refreshing white wine with bags of ripe fruit to balance the mild spice and not get lost against the sauce. Pinot Gris is the grape for this - one from the New World will give the most fruit, such as this stunner from New Zealand. 

Beans on Toast

Casillero del Diablo, Merlot, £6.50 on offer, Sainsbury's

Believe it or not, there’s a brilliant wine match for baked beans and it’s juicy, soft and red. Merlot is the Frank Sinatra of wine, thanks to its luscious, velvety tones, especially when from a place with lots of sun. Chilean Merlot is what you need both texture and flavour-wise here and this old favourite will see you right. Beanz Meanz Merlot. 

Spag Bol

Wine: Exquisite Malbec, £5.99, Aldi

There’s one wine grape that loves beef more than anything: Argentinian Malbec. Smooth, silky and sophisticated, but also, ballsy with ripe blueberry fruit and milk chocolate notes. It’s what you want when you’ve made the effort to cook and will give boom to your bolognaise! Even if you’re still in your dressing gown...

Pepperoni Pizza

Wine: Terre Siciliane ‘Appassite’, £7.99, Lidl

Hot spice is normally a tricky match with wine but naturally, the Italians have the answer. This wine is made in a special style called ‘appassimento’ with partly dried grapes, which gives it more body and tang but also, crucially, ripe cherry sweetness - the perfect foil for hot pepperoni. 

Fried Chicken

Wine: McGuigan Estate Chardonnay £5.10, Sainsbury’s

Chicken loves the Chardonnay grape and fried chicken practically begs for it! You’ll need bold, tropical notes and a splash of crisp citrus to pep it all up and make the batter sing. This perfectly balanced Aussie Chardonnay is such good value that you’ll be singing too.

Bowl of cereal

Wine: Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Les Dauphins, £6.50 down from £8, Tesco.

Let’s just say it’s 5pm and you’re still in your PJs looking for a snack rather than breakfast, yes? We’ve all done it. With non-sugary cereals like cornflakes or rice crispies, you’ll want something white, dry and weighty, preferably with some earthy flavours. The French white grapes Grenache blanc and Marsanne are ideal here and this bottle really looks the part. If you replace the milk with wine, I won’t tell...

Jacket Potato with Cheese

Wine: The Fire Tree, Sicilian Fiano, £4.49, Aldi

A simple, comforting dish like this needs a simple, comforting white wine. You can’t go wrong with Fiano. This southern Italian white grape is never expensive and is hard not to love with its sunshine character. It’s all about passion fruit, orange and lemons with a refreshing zing. Just what you need to brighten up your cheesy jacket. 

Banana and Custard Dessert

Wine: Semillon £6 half bottle, Tesco

Sweet treats need sweet wines or whatever’s in your glass will taste metallic. This Semillon could be a pud in itself with its gloriously unctuous, honeyed apricot notes. If you’ve had Sauternes, this style is similar but a fraction of the price and it’ll make your banana go bang!

Tomato Soup (tinned)

Wine: Chianti £6.99 Lidl

Tomatoes are one of the hardest things to match with wine, so once again, we look to the Italians. The Tuscan grape Sangiovese (the grape in chianti) is used with so many Italian tomato dishes thanks to its sour cherry, balsamic and fresh herb flavours. With cooked, creamy tomatoes like a tinned soup, you’ll want something with a bit of age on it. This Chianti riserva is just the ticket. 

Our Top Drink Discoveries: April

We’re fortunate to try a lot of beautiful drinks from around the world, in fact, sometimes our homes end up a bit like warehouses… but it’s all in the name of research. Research which leads us to writing pieces like this to share the very best discoveries we make with our amazing community… you!

Whether, wine, spirits or no-lo are your thing, check out our April ‘Best of’ picks and add something new to your discovery shelf today. You may just find a new favourite…

Gusbourne Rosé Brut 

I just wrote a massive article about English Sparkling Wines so it would be a little silly if I didn’t highlight one. This gem has been one of my favourites for quite some time – so much so that whenever I travel internationally, I make sure I’ve at least one bottle to share with those I know have a fond appreciation for sparkles. Fact is, we’re creating some dazzling sparkles and it’s the texture and mouthfeel on Gusbournes wines that really impress me. The nose gives you ripe red meadow berries with hints of flowers and apricots. As you take a sip your taste buds are overwhelmed with an assortment of strawberries, cherries and redcurrants which seem to intertwine into a raspberry cream and slight lemon curd. As I mentioned before, the texture is everything and the bubbles gently wrap themselves around the tongue as they glide into a long harmonious finish. This is English sparkling wine at its best. 

Buy now for £45

Gran Moraine Chardonnay 2017

I love a good Chardonnay to wind down in the evening and right now I’m loving this beauty from Oregon. Deriving from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, this rich, fruity and balanced Chard is teaming with flavour and the most important thing for me in a wine like this – texture. Some people love oak, others don’t, but for me this has the perfect in-between balance and just a enough to make it a really well rounded and quality driven Chardonnay. Rich, but now overpowering you can expect to taste apricot, buttery lemon, kiwis and clementine’s. For those who love Chardonnay, this is for you. For those who don’t, I’d dare say it will convert you. 

Buy for £56 (£336 per case)

McGuigan Philosophy 2014

McGuigan is known for being a quality-driven everyday wine at an affordable price – but they’re not just about great supermarket finds. Take for example The Philosophy, a top shelf Cabernet Shiraz blend which was produced in 2014 from some of the wineries top vineyards in Langhorne Creek, Wrattonbully and Clare Valley. This elegant yet dark ink bomb is packed full of blackcurrant and plum offering a combination of terroir driven notes while keeping true to the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. A generous 24 months in French oak barrels paves way to chocolate, black meadow fruits and cedar oak with a velvety texture and soft tannins.  

Buy now for £71

Orin Swift Machete 2016 

This wine is simply divine. It’s a testament to the insanely good Petit Syrah coming out of California, held up in this case with a structured blend of syrah and grenache to complete the story. David Phinney (the winemaker) is a true genius and anything he seems to touch these days turns to gold. This red blend packs a bunch of flavour, with deep dark plum, cassis and cedar oak brought together with vanilla, chalky tannins and a smooth raspberry chocolate finish. If it’s cold outside, this is a sure-fire way to warm up. 

£66 from Great Western Wine

Mirabeau Provence Rosé Gin

When it comes to rosé my top choice for quality and value is always Mirabeau, which made me pretty god damn excited when they announced they were making a gin. While the base botanicals consist of juniper, citrus, orris root, angelica root and coriander it’s the Provençal twist containing a variety of herbs such as bay, thyme and rosemary alongside the neutral grape spirit and base distillate of Mirabeau Classic Rosé that really makes this gin stand out from the crowd. The result is a fruity and textured gin with lemon, coriander and citrus bursting with floral notes, rose petals and lavender. The story ends on a final note as those herbs add an extra kick of character to the blend.  

£35 from Waitrose

Gran Patrón Platinum Tequila

I love a good tequila it seems to be one of the spirits I’ve really found an appreciation for over the last few years. If I was to name one house that consistently delivers quality across it’s whole portfolio, my mind takes me straight to Patrón. It seems there’s a little something for everyone and while I’ll happily get my hands on a Reposado for my margarita needs (quick tip, avoid the salt rim, it ruins the drink), I love nothing more than to sip on something of premium quality. That brings me to Gran Patrón Platinum, arguably the world’s first ulta-premium tequila. With each bottle taking around 30 people to create, quality is of the utmost level. Agave is individually sourced for its rich sugar content before being harvested, triple distilled  and left for 30 days in oak tanks to create pure elegance. The result is a smooth and seductive nectar of agave, orange, vanilla. Lime and white peppercorns. Pure bliss if you ask me and don’t even get me started on a Mexican Martini (google it, you won’t be disappointed). 

Buy now for £180

Æcorn Aromatic

In this day and age we are all about balance and I applaud those beginning to discover non-alcoholic spirits. The truth is, we don’t always want to drink booze, but what I do always insist on is creativity when it comes to what’s in my glass. This brings me to Æcorn, my new favourite non-alcohol tipple. My attention has taken me to the ‘Aromatic’ option which is rich and smoky in flavour. The difficulty up until now is that non-alcoholic spirits lack flavour, texture and any form of excitement, but this is where Æcorn has changed the game. I find myself frequently pouring a measure over ice with tonic water or simply just in a chilled ice with a couple of cubes and neat. When it comes to the flavour there’s a lot going on, with vanilla, cherrywood a smokiness and even a little cola combined with a silky-smooth mouthfeel and warming clove and oak on the finish. It may be a little daunting getting into this world, but once you’ve tried it you’ll be just as hooked as I am. Give it a go, you won’t regret it and you’ll likely feel better for it! 

£20 from Waitrose 

Don Papa 10 Year 

I first discovered Don Papa when I took a trip to the Philippines and I had no idea the country was even producing rum. Turns out it became one of the best discoveries I made, as I’m totally hooked on the stuff now. The 10-year old is their super premium version, distilled from some of the finest sugar canes in the world from the Negros Occidental region. Aged for 10 years in re-charred oak barrels it is then blended, leading to dried fruit flavours, pure cocoa, coconut, caramel and a kiss of cedar oak. Few people know that due to the humidity in the Philippines, the barrels are prone to some of the highest angel share yields in the world (that’s where spirit evaporates from the barrel). The thing is, Don Papa never re-fill them with recent vintage stock, meaning what you get in the bottle is not only pure but incrediblt concentrated. Rum is a beautiful drink that more people should be exploring, start here, like I did and you wont be disappointed. 

Buy now for £52

This content was originally published in Oracle Time Magazine under Aidy’s Drinks Column. You can subscribe to the online magazine here to view online or order the magazine in print format.

Krug Vs Dom Pérignon: The Prince & The Pauper

Written originally for Savile Row Style Magazine by Helena Nicklin

Understated elegance and purity or stylish opulence and glamour. Which do you prefer? If you ask me, I’ll say both (and in magnum, please!) but for different moods, if not different occasions. Krug and Dom Pérignon are two of Champagne’s most iconic houses, but they couldn’t be more different. Helena went behind the scenes to meet the faces behind the names and see if the individual experiences matched what I found inside those rather beautiful bottles.

Champagne Krug

Everything about Krug screams luxury. From the elegant labels flecked with gold and the unmistakable bottle shape, to the Krug house itself and the all people in it. Decked out in just the right amount of gold and red-purple (the house pantone, of course), offset with the stone of the ancient family house, at Krug you notice all the details – and there are many: The K tessellation in the dark gold wallpaper, the gold leaf in the delicious dessert; even the monogrammed napkin rings look like they could double up as gold bangles. I’m tempted to slip one onto my wrist.

We meet Olivier Krug, the sixth generation “Prince of Krug” as I like to call him. He is well-dressed and composed, looking slick in his perfectly tailored suit. He is every inch the charming gentleman and the embodiment of all that Champagne Krug feels to be. He talks to us about the house’s approach to making their wine: “Krug is unique,” he says. “This is a Champagne that you cannot compare with any other Champagne.” On flavour profile alone, no one would question that. Krug is famous for its dark golden hue and rich, multi-layered, baked-bread and brioche notes. So, how do they achieve such unique and complex flavours which change subtly every year, yet maintain that quintessential Krug style? The answer is simple: expert blending and an enormous library of reserve wines.

The Krug Approach: Perfecting the Blend

One advantage of being a Champagne house that goes back for generations is the opportunity to hold an incredible amount of “library” stock, i.e. small amounts of vintage wines going back many years. In Krug’s case, they have 400 wines to play with, “like a painter’s palette,” says Olivier. A pretty analogy. The use of these aged wines from several vintages, along with their use of small oak casks, goes a long way to explaining the richness of flavour in the Krug wines.

No ordinary Non Vintage: The Krug editions explained


While Krug do make vintage wines in exceptional years and a rather beautiful rosé, their best known wine is arguably the Grand Cuvée: a “Non Vintage” wine, (one made from a blend of several years). But this is no ordinary Non Vintage (NV). NV wines are traditionally seen as more “everyday” and are made to a house style that doesn’t change. At Krug however, each bottle of Grand Cuvée, despite technically being NV, tells a story. Here’s why:

The Grand Cuvée has always been made up of base of wine from the current vintage (growing year), which is then blended with between 25% and 35% reserve wines. With every new year and every new blending however, a subtly different flavour profile is created – a new painting if you like. Krug calls these batches “editions”. “Everything is mixed,” says Olivier, “but the idea behind the edition is to give a way to follow the story.” By story, there is a good one: Krug work with 200 family grape growers and each of the grower plots are vinified and tasted separately, so there are a lot of “colours” to play with every vintage. The first Grand Cuvée that was launched with its own ID as an “edition” was the 163rd edition, based on the 2007 vintage and blended from 183 wines from 12 different years (the oldest being 1990). With the ID number, the makeup of every bottle is available to those keen Krugistes who love to know all the details, from the vintage years that go into it the wine to the vineyard parcels used.

Krug Collection explained

In the Krug stable, alongside the famous Grand Cuvée, the rosé, the vintage whites and the single vineyard vintage wines (Clos D’Ambonnay, which is 100% Pinot Noir and Clos Mesnil which is 100% Chardonnay), there sits Krug Collection. These are vintage wines that have been sitting in perfect conditions at the Krug cellars to age for a few years before release. They are tasted frequently until they are deemed to have reached a new peak of drinkability. At this point, they are disgorged (several years after bottling), and sold as second revelation. 1990 Krug collection for example, sat on its lees for 25 years before disgorgement and its subsequent second release. These are truly special wines offering a new, unique view on a particular vintage. A fabulous initiative by the Champagne house and one you may recognise if familiar with Dom Pérignon’s Plénitude range. At least this is one place where the two great houses have a similar vision. And it’s a rather tasty one.

Champagne Dom Pérignon

We drive from the Krug house in the centre of busy Reims into the undulating, vine-covered hills of Hautvillers: home to the top cuvée from the Moët & Chandon stable and probably the most famous Champagne in the world: Dom Pérignon. While comparisons are not exact – we dined in the Krug’s private house and did not visit the vineyards – it seemed fitting that our first stop with the Dom Pérignon Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy was overlooking the vineyards from the walls of the famous Abbey itself. We visit the cellars that the monk Dom Pérignon kept for so many years before heading to the Abbey for a tasting in a large room with nothing in it but a long, dark wooden table; the only colour against the stark, white-washed stone walls. If Krug was intimate, cosy and packed full of eye-catching detail in sumptuous colours, this was precisely the opposite. The wines had, literally, nowhere to hide.

From humble beginnings as the youngest of seven children to a local clerk, Dom Pérignon entered the order of Saint Bénédict at the age of 17, transferring to the Abbey of Saint-Pierre d’Hautvilliers in his 30th year, where he stayed as cellar master until his death in 1715. Contrary to popular belief, Dom Pérignon did not invent champagne. In fact, he spent many years trying to prevent the secondary fermentation that creates the bubbles in the first place, as many injuries happened and much wine was spoiled by re-fermenting bottles exploding under pressure in the heat of the summer months. What Dom Pérignon did do, however, was advocate natural winemaking techniques, harvesting grapes at cooler temperatures, smaller yields and the disposal of rotten grapes, all of which come together to make a wine that is better quality, more stable and elegant. “He wanted the wine to be excellent because he wanted it to be for God,” the vineyard manager tells us.

Hearing the story of Dom Pérignon, it is hard not to look at Richard Geoffroy as the Dom himself, dressed humbly as he is, with the rustic air of a man who spends most of his time outdoors. His descriptions of each wine are famously poetic and it’s clear that, for him, the only thing that matters is the wine. No distractions. We are spoiled by a technical tasting of several wines side by side as we were at Krug, but the big difference here is that the focus is on the vintage rather than the blends of several years.

The Dom Pérignon Approach – Perfecting the Single Vintage

At Dom Pérignon, only vintage wines are made, i.e. with grapes all grown in a single year. What this means of course is that if the weather is not kind and the grapes are not deemed worthy, then an entire harvest can be written off. “That element of risk-taking is essential,” says Geoffroy. “It’s about stepping outside the comfort zone if you want to innovate. Champagne should not get so stuck on style,” he says. “If it’s too safe, in the long run, the brand loses vibrancy.” And so, thus informed, we taste several vintage wines side by side as Geoffroy talks us through the conditions of each growing season in perfect detail as if reciting a favourite play. “You must have a clear understanding of the vintage,” he says, “to memorise what each individual wine (parcel) is all about … only then can you go into the mental process of blending.”

With such assistance, we have a masterclass on the effects of vintage on Champagne with the most delightful examples to play with. Purity and precision are the key words and the 1973 knocks our socks off at the end with its lemon cream and honeyed, tropical notes, all the while still lithe and elegant. We try some of them in their second – and third – plénitudes.

Dom Pérignon Plénitude explained

Wines of all kinds have an arc of development when they age. A little like all of us, they are first fruit-forward in youth, then close down for a while, to reopen energised and with less of the youthful fruit perhaps, but with more of the complexity that comes with age. If they are great wines truly worthy of long ageing, then they may also have the chance to go through this process one more time.

Despite being worlds apart in style and story, it seems that these two iconic Champagne houses are aligned on one thing: the idea of holding back some superb vintages until they are ready to blossom again in their second – or even third – revelation or plénitude. And so, whether we need a dose of power and a touch of glamour or something more linear and contemplative, at least we know we have a wealth of styles to choose from. Lucky, lucky us.

Like this? Try Tasting the most famous wine in the world, 3 styles of French Rosé you can rely on , English wine is your new luxury drop. or Portrait of Veuve Clicquot: the orignal grande dame of champagne

3 Styles of French Rosé You Can Rely On

The sun’s out and we’re still in lockdown, so let’s do this properly! Cue some beautiful pink wine that will make us dream of French holidays we’re not taking. How do you know what you’re going to get, though? Styles of rosé wine can vary enormously, even from the same region, so it’s genuinely hard to know. Fear not however, there are some styles that tend to stay the same. Whether you like it pale and dry, juicy and pink or savoury and practically red, here are three French styles to look for that you can rely on, told through the lens of dance because… #LockdownMadness

The Ballerina

Style: Pale and dry

Look for: Côtes de Provence

If this rosé had a dance, it would be ballet: pale pink, elegant and delicate to look at, but capable of powerful, complex twists and turns. If you like your pink wine creamy, weighty and dry with a saline tang and just a whisper of fruit, you can’t go far wrong if you look for ‘Côtes de Provence’ on the label. Provence is the only French wine region where there’s a classification dedicated to premium rosé wine and the world is now trying to emulate this classic style of pink. Grapes used are often a blend of Grenache and Cinsault, sometimes with a splash of Rolle, Syrah and others. Try these...

Bargain: Château de Rouet Provence Rosé, 2018, £8.50 (50cl), Coop

Mid-range: Château de Berne, Côtes de Provence, 2018, £13.99 mixed six price, Majestic.

Blow-out: Ultimate Provence Rosé 2018, £26.83, winebuyers.com

The Tango Dancer

Style: Dark and savoury

Look for: Tavel, Rhone Valley.

Dark and dramatic, with high kicks of wild strawberry fruit amongst the savoury notes of grilled meat, this wine’s dance is the Tango. Often almost red, with a grippiness you can get your teeth into, these are well-structured wines, perfect for a barbecue and great at any time of year.  Tavel is an appellation (dedicated wine growing area) in Southern Rhone Valley in France, not a million miles from the more famous Châteauneuf du Pape. The difference is that Tavel is France’s only appellation dedicated solely to rosé wine. Grapes used traditionally are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and sometimes others. Look out for the distinctive bottle too! Try these…

Bargain: Tavel Rosé, 2018. £7.99, Lidl ( in store)

Mid range: Tavel Rosé, E. Guigal, 2019, £14, Vinatis

Blow out: Château de Manissy Organic Rosé, 2018, £16.95, Amathus

The 80’s Disco Queen

Style: Bright and candied

Look for: Rosé D’Anjou

Just like throwing those shapes on the dance floor to Wham and other cheesy 80’s hits, Rosé d’Anjou can be a bit of a guilty pleasure. Hailing from Anjou in France's western Loire Valley, these pinks are vibrant in colour and sweeter than many other rosé styles, bar some Californian white zinfandels (if you like those, try this). It’s not sugary sweet, but very fruity, like strawberry sweets. Serve them well chilled in the sun with some cold cuts or mildly spiced snacks like chilli nuts or Bombay mix. The main grape for this sweeter style is Grolleau Noir, often blended with Gamay and Cabernet Franc. Try these...

Bargain: Champteloup Rosé d’Anjou, £6.29 on offer, Waitrose

Mid range: Domaine des Cedres, Rosé d’Anjou, 2018, £10.58, Corkingwines.com

By Helena Nicklin

Like this? 5 Reasons to love English Wine, Marvellous Malbecs under £15 or Drinks retailers delivering during lockdown.

Marvellous Malbecs under £15 for Malbec Day

Words by Helena Nicklin

Friday 17th April 2020 is World Malbec Day! It’s fair to say that globally, Malbec is now one of the world’s best-loved red wine grapes, thanks to its ability to make wines that are gloriously velvety, fruity and chocolatey at relatively inexpensive prices. It’s easy to see why for years it was seen as the best value wine on a restaurant list. While much of the Malbec that the world has fallen in love with in recent years has been from Argentina however, the grape actually has a French heritage...

A Brief History of Malbec

Malbec was widely planted in south-west France and found favour with royalty such as Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II and Francois I, who was such a fan, he had a Malbec vineyard planted at Fontainebleau, just outside Paris. The south-west region of Cahors has always lauded this grape and to this day, any red wine labelled Cahors must be at least 70% Malbec. The style there is inky black and tannic, with spicy, savoury notes.

Malbec was also widely planted not far away from Cahors in Bordeaux. In fact, until a particularly hard winter in 1952, up to 60% of the blend for red Bordeaux wines could be Malbec - a grape chosen for its softness, to help balance the harder tannins of its more muscular cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec however, was not its happiest in Bordeaux. Late ripening, delicate and low yielding, it became too much of a risk for the winegrowers at the time who were seeing colder winters. From the harsh winter of 1952 then, producers decided that a replacement was needed that could balance the beefy Bordeaux Cabernet, yet deal with the weather much better. Merlot was the answer and so most Malbec vines were grubbed up and replaced. 

Malbec moves to Argentina

Before Bordeaux made the big move from Malbec to Merlot, the reputation of Bordeaux wines was second to none. The famous great classification of 1855 had solidified the reputation of certain producers, so the world now knew that some of the finest wines in the world came from Bordeaux, France. At around this time, the president of Argentina, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, who was partial to a glass of good wine, commissioned French agronomist Michel Michel Aimé Pouget to bring cuttings of the finest French vines back to France which at the time, included Malbec. In the dry, warmer climate and incredible light of Argentina, Malbec thrived in a way it never had before. 

New World Vs Old World Malbec

Try some Malbec from Cahors against some from its new home in Argentina…

The Original: Cahors

La Patrie, Cahors Malbec, France. £7, Sainsburys

Dark and powerful with lots of structure, this wine is heavy with black fruit flavours and cocoa powder notes. Ballsy and rustic but also satisfying and great value. 

Jean-Luc Baldès, Malbec du Clos, Triguedina. £7.99, Waitrose

A step up in silkyness from La Patrie, there’s more bramble fruit and elegance in this wine , which is just crying out for cold cuts, paté and a fat steak. 

Le Vassal de Mercues, Georges Vigouroux, 2016. £13.99 Majestic (£11.99 mix 6)

While some Cahors needs a lot of time to come round, this one is drinking very well now. Expect more tannin than its Argentinian friends and a whiff of barbeque meat, lots of spice and serious substance. With a hard, nutty cheese or a fat piece of meat, this will shine.

The Newcomer: Argentina

Exquisite Collection Malbec, Uco Valley, 2019. £5.99 ALDI

I’m usually sceptical of wines this cheap, especially from the Uco Valley, which is a premium region within Mendoza, but this Malbec is an excellent example of type: soft, with juicy, ripe blueberry and milk chocolate. At this price, you can stock up (provided you can get online…)

Benmarco, Susana Balbo, £14.99 (£12.99 mix 6), Majestic

This voluptuous wine is why people love Malbec. Think chocolate muffin with a splash of red fruit and spice, but a complexity that will make it shine with food. A classic Mendoza Malbec but with a brain.

Don David, Blend of Terroirs Malbec, £9 COOP

From Argentina, but not Mendoza. Salta is an Argentinian province to the northwest of the capital city. Malbec from here is a little different thanks to some epic high altitudes, which bring more defined day/night temperature swings and lots of sunlight. The result is thicker skins, so drier and with more dark chocolate, saline and minty notes. This one is that, with a touch of red berry fruit.

Also try:

Intipalka Malbec, Vinos Queirolo, 2018, Peru £10.75 Corney & Barrow

A Peruvian Malbec! Quite different in style but incredibly delicious. Crisp, fresh and light on its feet, with notes of cool raspberry, red cherry and liquorice spice. 

Like this guide? Try Cheap wines that taste expensive, or perhaps 5 reasons to love English wine