Words by Helena Nicklin
Friday 17th April 2020 is World Malbec Day! It’s fair to say that globally, Malbec is now one of the world’s best-loved red wine grapes, thanks to its ability to make wines that are gloriously velvety, fruity and chocolatey at relatively inexpensive prices. It’s easy to see why for years it was seen as the best value wine on a restaurant list. While much of the Malbec that the world has fallen in love with in recent years has been from Argentina however, the grape actually has a French heritage...
A Brief History of Malbec
Malbec was widely planted in south-west France and found favour with royalty such as Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II and Francois I, who was such a fan, he had a Malbec vineyard planted at Fontainebleau, just outside Paris. The south-west region of Cahors has always lauded this grape and to this day, any red wine labelled Cahors must be at least 70% Malbec. The style there is inky black and tannic, with spicy, savoury notes.
Malbec was also widely planted not far away from Cahors in Bordeaux. In fact, until a particularly hard winter in 1952, up to 60% of the blend for red Bordeaux wines could be Malbec - a grape chosen for its softness, to help balance the harder tannins of its more muscular cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec however, was not its happiest in Bordeaux. Late ripening, delicate and low yielding, it became too much of a risk for the winegrowers at the time who were seeing colder winters. From the harsh winter of 1952 then, producers decided that a replacement was needed that could balance the beefy Bordeaux Cabernet, yet deal with the weather much better. Merlot was the answer and so most Malbec vines were grubbed up and replaced.
Malbec moves to Argentina
Before Bordeaux made the big move from Malbec to Merlot, the reputation of Bordeaux wines was second to none. The famous great classification of 1855 had solidified the reputation of certain producers, so the world now knew that some of the finest wines in the world came from Bordeaux, France. At around this time, the president of Argentina, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, who was partial to a glass of good wine, commissioned French agronomist Michel Michel Aimé Pouget to bring cuttings of the finest French vines back to France which at the time, included Malbec. In the dry, warmer climate and incredible light of Argentina, Malbec thrived in a way it never had before.
New World Vs Old World Malbec
Try some Malbec from Cahors against some from its new home in Argentina…
The Original: Cahors
La Patrie, Cahors Malbec, France. £7, Sainsburys
Dark and powerful with lots of structure, this wine is heavy with black fruit flavours and cocoa powder notes. Ballsy and rustic but also satisfying and great value.
Jean-Luc Baldès, Malbec du Clos, Triguedina. £7.99, Waitrose
A step up in silkyness from La Patrie, there’s more bramble fruit and elegance in this wine , which is just crying out for cold cuts, paté and a fat steak.
Le Vassal de Mercues, Georges Vigouroux, 2016. £13.99 Majestic (£11.99 mix 6)
While some Cahors needs a lot of time to come round, this one is drinking very well now. Expect more tannin than its Argentinian friends and a whiff of barbeque meat, lots of spice and serious substance. With a hard, nutty cheese or a fat piece of meat, this will shine.
The Newcomer: Argentina
Exquisite Collection Malbec, Uco Valley, 2019. £5.99 ALDI
I’m usually sceptical of wines this cheap, especially from the Uco Valley, which is a premium region within Mendoza, but this Malbec is an excellent example of type: soft, with juicy, ripe blueberry and milk chocolate. At this price, you can stock up (provided you can get online…)
Benmarco, Susana Balbo, £14.99 (£12.99 mix 6), Majestic
This voluptuous wine is why people love Malbec. Think chocolate muffin with a splash of red fruit and spice, but a complexity that will make it shine with food. A classic Mendoza Malbec but with a brain.
Don David, Blend of Terroirs Malbec, £9 COOP
From Argentina, but not Mendoza. Salta is an Argentinian province to the northwest of the capital city. Malbec from here is a little different thanks to some epic high altitudes, which bring more defined day/night temperature swings and lots of sunlight. The result is thicker skins, so drier and with more dark chocolate, saline and minty notes. This one is that, with a touch of red berry fruit.
Also try:
Intipalka Malbec, Vinos Queirolo, 2018, Peru £10.75 Corney & Barrow
A Peruvian Malbec! Quite different in style but incredibly delicious. Crisp, fresh and light on its feet, with notes of cool raspberry, red cherry and liquorice spice.
Like this guide? Try Cheap wines that taste expensive, or perhaps 5 reasons to love English wine