It’s World Malbec Day on the 17th April! As if we needed an excuse to open a bottle of this chocolatey, velvety wine. To celebrate, let’s get up close and personal with some of the keys styles of Malbec, from France to Argentina.

While Malbec may be the flagship red wine grape of Argentina these days, its heritage is actually French. It hails from the small French appellation of Cahors in France, which lies inland from Bordeaux on the river Lot. Malbec here is better known as Côt or even Auxerrois in some places and will be found in bottles labelled ‘Cahors’ (remember, in France, wines are very often named after place rather than grapes). When from Cahors, Malbec is darker; more inky, tannic and intense than in its fruitier, Argentinian guise.

It was only in the 1780s that the grape was planted in Bordeaux by a Monsieur Malbeck and the name for this ‘new’ Bordelais blending grape stuck. It flourished here for a while but gradually got replaced with Merlot as it was a hardier grape for the weather. Its real moment came in the 1880s when French immigrants arrived in Argentina, bringing with them vine cuttings from Bordeaux. Malbec, who had not exactly shone in Bordeaux with the cool weather, flourished here in the sunny dry conditions and the rest is history!

Here’s a Cahors and three Malbec wines from Argentina’s three key provinces: Patagonia, Mendoza and Salta.

Cahors, France

Malbec from its homeland in Cahors is full-bodied and inky black with notes of dark, mulberry spice and a flash of baked red fruit. This is an approachable starter Cahors. The more you go up the price scale, the more intense and heavy they become. Try with hard nutty cheese and braised meats!

Cahors, M&S

Find this one for £8 at M&S

Patagonia, Argentina

Cooler than the more famous region of Mendoza, Patagonian Malbec from the south of the country tends to have a little more elegance, silkiness and freshness with crunchy raspberry and black cherry notes. Think of frozen raspberries dipped in dark chocolate! This one has a bit of age on it too so enjoy those secondary aromas of spice and leather.

Vinalba Patagonia Malbec

Find it for £10 at Morrisons

Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza is the best known wine region in Argentina and for good reason. Its warm, dry climate and fabulous light give Malbecs that are ripe and velvety, packed with baked blueberry and milk chocolate notes. Seek out higher altitudes such as this one and you’ll be rewarded with more concentration and complexity. It’s a Fairtrade Malbec made sustainably from grapes grown in the Finca Altamira vineyard in the premium sub region of Uco Valley, 1,100 metres above sea level. It’s aromatic and vibrant red wine with notes of red fruits, herbs, and a great mineral character.

Argento Altamira Single Vineyard Organic Malbec

Find it for £13.50-£13.99 from urbangrapes.co.uk and allaboutwine.com.

Salta, Argentina

Way up in the north of Argentina with extraordinarily high altitude vineyards (think 1700 ml ASL and above!) and exquisitely pure sunlight, is the province of Salta. Within Salta, sits the town and region of Cafayate, which is surrounded by the dramatic, red rock and desert Calchaquí Valleys. Wines from Salta have their own personality. As the light is so strong here and the attitudes bring huge diurnal temperature swings, the malbec grapes develop a thicker skin here (like their own sun protection), which gives the wines a darker colour and more tannic structure together with a cool elegance. Think sea salted dark chocolate with mint at that’s the style. Yum!

Cafayate Estate Malbec

Find this one for £11 at Sainsbury’s

See more of what we have tasting on the Thursday Club with Mike Graham on talkRADIO TV here!

Words by Helena Nicklin

Friday 17th April 2020 is World Malbec Day! It’s fair to say that globally, Malbec is now one of the world’s best-loved red wine grapes, thanks to its ability to make wines that are gloriously velvety, fruity and chocolatey at relatively inexpensive prices. It’s easy to see why for years it was seen as the best value wine on a restaurant list. While much of the Malbec that the world has fallen in love with in recent years has been from Argentina however, the grape actually has a French heritage...

A Brief History of Malbec

Malbec was widely planted in south-west France and found favour with royalty such as Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II and Francois I, who was such a fan, he had a Malbec vineyard planted at Fontainebleau, just outside Paris. The south-west region of Cahors has always lauded this grape and to this day, any red wine labelled Cahors must be at least 70% Malbec. The style there is inky black and tannic, with spicy, savoury notes.

Malbec was also widely planted not far away from Cahors in Bordeaux. In fact, until a particularly hard winter in 1952, up to 60% of the blend for red Bordeaux wines could be Malbec - a grape chosen for its softness, to help balance the harder tannins of its more muscular cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec however, was not its happiest in Bordeaux. Late ripening, delicate and low yielding, it became too much of a risk for the winegrowers at the time who were seeing colder winters. From the harsh winter of 1952 then, producers decided that a replacement was needed that could balance the beefy Bordeaux Cabernet, yet deal with the weather much better. Merlot was the answer and so most Malbec vines were grubbed up and replaced.

Malbec moves to Argentina

Before Bordeaux made the big move from Malbec to Merlot, the reputation of Bordeaux wines was second to none. The famous great classification of 1855 had solidified the reputation of certain producers, so the world now knew that some of the finest wines in the world came from Bordeaux, France. At around this time, the president of Argentina, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, who was partial to a glass of good wine, commissioned French agronomist Michel Michel Aimé Pouget to bring cuttings of the finest French vines back to France which at the time, included Malbec. In the dry, warmer climate and incredible light of Argentina, Malbec thrived in a way it never had before.

New World Vs Old World Malbec

Try some Malbec from Cahors against some from its new home in Argentina…

The Original: Cahors

La Patrie, Cahors Malbec, France. £7, Sainsburys

Dark and powerful with lots of structure, this wine is heavy with black fruit flavours and cocoa powder notes. Ballsy and rustic but also satisfying and great value.

Jean-Luc Baldès, Malbec du Clos, Triguedina. £7.99, Waitrose

A step up in silkyness from La Patrie, there’s more bramble fruit and elegance in this wine , which is just crying out for cold cuts, paté and a fat steak.

Le Vassal de Mercues, Georges Vigouroux, 2016. £13.99 Majestic (£11.99 mix 6)

While some Cahors needs a lot of time to come round, this one is drinking very well now. Expect more tannin than its Argentinian friends and a whiff of barbeque meat, lots of spice and serious substance. With a hard, nutty cheese or a fat piece of meat, this will shine.

The Newcomer: Argentina

Exquisite Collection Malbec, Uco Valley, 2019. £5.99 ALDI

I’m usually sceptical of wines this cheap, especially from the Uco Valley, which is a premium region within Mendoza, but this Malbec is an excellent example of type: soft, with juicy, ripe blueberry and milk chocolate. At this price, you can stock up (provided you can get online…)

Benmarco, Susana Balbo, £14.99 (£12.99 mix 6), Majestic

This voluptuous wine is why people love Malbec. Think chocolate muffin with a splash of red fruit and spice, but a complexity that will make it shine with food. A classic Mendoza Malbec but with a brain.

Don David, Blend of Terroirs Malbec, £9 COOP

From Argentina, but not Mendoza. Salta is an Argentinian province to the northwest of the capital city. Malbec from here is a little different thanks to some epic high altitudes, which bring more defined day/night temperature swings and lots of sunlight. The result is thicker skins, so drier and with more dark chocolate, saline and minty notes. This one is that, with a touch of red berry fruit.

Also try:

Intipalka Malbec, Vinos Queirolo, 2018, Peru £10.75 Corney & Barrow

A Peruvian Malbec! Quite different in style but incredibly delicious. Crisp, fresh and light on its feet, with notes of cool raspberry, red cherry and liquorice spice.

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What are the key styles of Malbec?