Words by Colin Hampden-White
Rum, it seems, is finally having its day. We are seeing more and more rum brands on the shelves of our supermarkets and even more being offered by specialist retailers. We are beginning to understand rum beyond white, dark and spiced. Although there are different rules for different countries producing rum, consumers are starting to recognise the styles from these varying countries. For example, Barbados is relaxed and easy going, Jamaica is a little funkier and high in esters, especially those rums from Trelawny district. There are countries producing rich full rums and others with a speciality in unaged expressions. There is a lot to get our head around, but it is a fun journey and gives the opportunity to excite our tastebuds.
This interest in rum is now extending to single casks from specific distilleries. Single casks of rum have been increasing in price over the last few years and many more bottlings of single cask rum can be found. I think it is a good time to invest in this category.
One country which is lesser known to us all is Cuba. With the exception of Havana Club, which produces many styles of rum, from white through to rich blends, we have seen no other brands outside of Cuba. A few bottles appear from time to time, but nothing of any real significance. All this has now changed. In the past, Havana Club has been on its own because, through a deal done with the Cuban Government, Pernod Ricard had the exclusive rights to markets Cuban rum under the Havana Club brand, outside of Cuba. This contract has now come to an end and there have been some exciting developments. I want to share two of those developments at different positions on the economic scale.
Eminente
Firstly, Moet Hennessey has recently launched a 7 year old Cuban rum called Eminente. It is a great piece of blending with rums that are at least seven years old. The story is all about Cuba and starts with César Martí. This master distiller is the youngest of the ten Maestros in Cuba and attained his position faster than any other Maestro in Cuban history taking only nine years. He is a bit of a star in the Cuban rum world. He grew up in the province of Villa Clara from where Eminente originates.
César creates extra complexity in Eminente by ageing and blending aguardientes. These are flavourful, complex distillates produced from molasses and distilled to 75% ABV. These are aged in oak barrels that were previously used to age whisky. These barrels are blended and then aged again with a little light Cuban rum which has been distilled to 96% ABV. The blend of light rums and aguardientes creates what we know as Cuban rum.
Eminente Reserva is aged for a minimum of seven years and is one of only a few Cuban rums that are classified ‘Denominación de Origen Protegida’ (D.O.P. Ron de Cuba).
The design of the bottle has been well thought out. It looks and feels good, with its crocodile skin textured glass and label showing the island, which is in the shape of the indigenous Cuban crocodile. The side label is reminiscent of a travel ticket and has the Maesto’s portrait.
The whole concept is well produced and, more than that, it also tastes wonderful.
Nose: Lots of spice up front with cinnamon being dominant. Dried fruits follow with chocolate, coffee and tobacco. There is sweet manuka honey in the background giving balance.
Palate: The sweetness is subtle, and the palate is fresh with floral hints overlaying the darker chocolate and coffee notes. There is a touch of smoke in the background, and the spices reappear towards the end of the palate.
Finish: A very long finish which is satisfying with lots of dark chocolate and a touch of sweet dark honey.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 41.3%
Find here: £43.95
Cubana No.1
My second discovery is a fascinating ode to Cuba. The ingredients come from Cuba, yet the distillation takes place in London. Using a Caribbean fermentation process, Cuban cigar tobacco, fermented limes and fermented cacao nibs, this creates a very special rum with huge amounts of complexity. This is the first release from Atelier called Cubana No.1. The heart of this rum comes from the small family farms in Cuba and the flavours show this authentic background.
The base spirit is a high ester rum from Jamaica which has been distilled from estate-harvested sugar cane. There are no artificial colours or flavours. There is also no added sugar. The distillation strength is very high at 79% and is reduced to a drinking strength of 52.6% giving lots of power but allowing the complexity to travel across the palate well.
Nose: Lots of aromatic spices, limes and mixed nuts come through first, followed by dried fruits of dates and raisins. There is a floral element of honeysuckle and passionflower. The background holds the deeper flavours of cigar smoke, leather and burnt wax. There are some very well-balanced umami aromas that develop if the rum is left to air for a while.
Palate: Cacao comes through immediately followed by dried fruits and a sherry note. Mulled flavours of spiced oranges and sweet pineapple mix with soft spices like saffron and turmeric. Again, there is the tobacco in the background lingering with other spices like cinnamon and cardamon, and a subtle sea salt on the very back of the palate.
Finish: The finish is very long, and the complexity continues with waves of spice, cacao and dried apricots. The salinity persists, and the tobacco comes out of the background to be more prevalent.
The story throughout is the Cuban cigar, distilled with cured black lime, fermented cacao nibs, transmitted via the Hi-Ester Rum fermented and distilled from cane juice. The result is a unique experience that embraces a balance between an aged rum and a humidor filled with the aroma of fresh cigars.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 52.6%
Find here: £250
For more of our rum guides check out: Brilliant Rums for Under £30 and 4 Stunning Rums from Around the World.