Words by Colin Hampden-White
In the northern hemisphere the summer is in full swing. Records are breaking with the UK hitting 40 degrees centigrade for the first time. Climate change is upon us and it’s not looking good. As a race we are very good at celebrating, but also commiserating so whatever the news be, bad or good let’s pop a cork, and in this heat it’s time for some white wine. With popular varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay flying off the shelves, it’s about time we stopped and recognised some of the other brilliant varieties we can get our mitts on and enjoy in the sun. Whether with food, or an aperitif, with cheese, chocolate or simply by itself, there is a white wine for every occasion. I’d like to show you a few of my favourite varieties which are not the norm but are brilliant. With white wine it really does pay to push the boat out and spend a little extra to get a lot more, and these wines are especially good value even if they are mostly a little over ten pounds.
Chapel Down Bacchus 2019
Starting off this little list is a small bottle. One doesn’t always need or want a full bottle, especially if you’re not sharing, and this little wine is a British classic. Bacchus is a grape variety which thrives in the UK, and in a good summer, which 2019 was, the wine can be even better. This wine goes very well with seafood or Thai food giving a crisp counterbalance to any heat.
Size: 187ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £6.06
Faustino VII Blanco
In Spain they have quite a few different varieties of grape we don’t see much of in the rest of Europe and in Rioja where this wine comes from Viura is used a lot. It’s a variety which is full of fruity flavours and will go very well with Tapas as one would expect, and with pasta dishes. This wine has been fermented in stainless steel giving the wine freshness and vibrancy as it doesn’t have any of the oaky flavours associated with barrel fermentation.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £9.45
Hanewald-Schwerdt Riesling Trocken 2018
This is a dry yet very fruity Riesling from Germany, the king of Riesling. Riesling tends to age very well, and I find drinks much better having had a few years in the bottle as this one has. With lots of orchard fruits there is also a mineral backbone to the wine as the grapes are grown in limestone soils. This would be a great accompaniment to seafood, or even something a little fatty like a pork dish or cheese.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £10.49
Beronia Rioja Viura 2020
Beronia is a well-known brand in the UK for their red wines which are rich and expressive. Their white wine is also full of fruit, and this Rioja has lots of tropical fruit which goes very well with fish, salads, and charcuterie. The balance of the wine is very good with a backbone of acidity able to cut through fattier foods like salami and prosciutto. The slightly raised abv also helps this wine stand up to richer dishes.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £11.03
Tornai Furmint F 2017
Furmint is a grape variety which is usually known for producing sweet wines, but the dry wines created from this grape variety can be excellent. The wines are a little like chardonnay and are full of flavour and body. This one has been fermented in stainless steel to keep the freshness and fruitiness in check with a backbone of minerality. Like chardonnay, Furmint can age very well, and this wine at five years old has lots of complexity and will pair very well with complex foods like those from Asia.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £11.72
Diamantakis Vidiano 2018
I am a fan of Vidiano, I go to Crete every year and Vidiano is indigenous to the Island. My favourite Vidiano comes from the Manousakis winery under the brand Nostos, and if you’re in Sweden or the USA you may well be able to find some. But more widely spread is this excellent bottle also from a family fun winery Diamantakis. The wine is fresh as its grapes are grown with a little altitude and it has a creamy velvety texture which pairs very well with risottos and grilled fish.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £12.98
Lionel Faury Condrieu La Berne 2018
This is a wine for special occasions or for moments to remember. The name La Berne comes from the previous owners of the land the grapes are grown in, it’s made from 100% Viognier and the vines are over 35 years old. Oak is used in the process with 30% of it being new barrels. The wine has touches of creamy oak in amongst the fruits which are dominated by fresh apricots and touches of orange blossom. At 14% it is full bodied, but very well balanced and like the Vidiano this is a brilliant wine to pair with risotto.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 14%
Find here: £44.95
Inniskillin Gold Vidal Icewine 2018
This wine is from the brilliant 2018 vintage and is made from 100% Vidal grapes which are harvested and then pressed when they are frozen. This process allows the juices to be very concentrated. It is very sweet, but also has a lot of apricot fruit and touches of pomelo. If you’re a fan of Sauternes then this is something different, but is in no way a lesser wine to its more famous cousin. Like Sauternes it pairs well with cheese, but also has enough complexity to have with a main dish too!
Size: 375ml
ABV: 9.5%
Find here: £46.85
Pongracz Brut Brut Méthode Cap Classique
This wine is an absolute bargain. Made from traditional champagne grape varieties in South Africa’s Western Cape, the vines are cooled by a maritime breeze keeping the wine fresh and balanced yet fruity. There are flavours of crisp apples and brioche and a little nuttiness. Like Champagne this wine will pair with many foods but is particularly good with raw fish or Oysters. For under ten pounds, this wine will never fail to impress.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.6%
Find here: £9.80
With such variety in the white wine world, it is only right there is a day dedicated to it, but it really needs to be a week! If you try any of the above, don’t let them just be for summer. They are wines which will be very tasty at any time of year and will last for a while in bottle too, just don’t keep them on a top shelve in the kitchen, but rather in a cool cupboard.
If you’re looking for more white wine recommendations, then make sure you check out the Albariño grape and the stunning Spanish wine region of Rueda.