Words by Colin Hampden-White
There are a lot of very expensive bottles of whisky on the market these days. Although nearly all of it is good, as one would expect, there are some that are extraordinary. Over the last few months, I have come across a few of those bottles and wanted to share them with you here. A lot of them may not be on the market, so will have to be found at auction, but they are all worth hunting down if you have quite a lot more to spend on a bottle or have a special occasion when splashing out is appropriate. I’ll start off in the hundreds to give a couple of more affordable bottles but will end up in the thousands. At whatever price point you’re looking at they are all incredible whiskies.
Bushmills 2000 The Causeway Collection
This comes from a collection of vintage Bushmills and is my favourite dram outside of Scotland this year so far. This one was completely matured in first fill ruby Port casks and bottled in 2021. It was also bottled at cask strength with no colouring or chill filtering allowing the whisky to express itself without any hindrance. This is a decadent whiskey with lots of jam on the nose with some dry tobacco and rich manuka honey. The palate has lots of confected red fruits and the jam then turns to marmalade. There are hints of tropical fruit in the background too. The finish is very long, and the red fruits continue with a little cigar and spice in the background.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 54.1%
Find here: £239.95
Whistlepig 13 The Boss Hog edition 2018
My favourite whiskey I’ve tasted in the North Americas this year has been This Boss Hog. It is an annual release from Whistlepig and is very sought after by those who like rye whiskey. This expression has been finished in Calvados casks making the 2018 edition stand out. The core flavour of the whiskey is apples, and the Calvados casks bring out the cooked apple flavours balancing the fresh red apple. Other flavours include Maple syrup, bitter chocolate, and spice. The typical rye peppery and oily aromas and flavours are still there so the rye fans aren’t going to be disappointed, but the fruit is rich and complex making this one of the best Whistlepig whiskies I’ve tried.
Size: UK 750ml // US 700ml
ABV: 57.9%
Find here: UK £574.95 // US $1,199.99
Caperdonich 30 Secret Speyside Collection
We now come into the world of Scotch, and this is a rare whisky which I think is undervalued considering the distillery no longer exists, so as time goes on there is less and less Caperdonich in the world. This 30 year old is an unpeated Caperdonich and was matured in first fill bourbon casks which I think allow the whisky to show itself at its best. The nose gives of dark stone fruit aromas as well as dark honey and some confected orchard fruits leading to rich apricots and tropical fruits on the palate and some spice. The finish is very smooth and goes on for a long while.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 51.1%
Find here: £820
Balvenie 30
The Balvenie 30 is released in batches. Once one batch has run out, they find some more exceptional casks to blend another batch. The one I tasted recently and is in the link below is from 2014. All the releases are very consistent, and I’ve never tasted one that hasn’t been brilliant. This won best Speyside Single Malt at the World Whisky Awards, and Gold Outstanding at the IWSC in 2013, both of which I am a judge on. It is a rich and very well-balanced whisky with lots of heather honey and nuttiness. There is plenty of spice, which is a Balvenie trait, and the palate shows a hint of smoke as well as vanilla, honey and damp tobacco leaves.
Size: UK 700ml // US 750ml
ABV: 44.2%
Find here: UK £1800 // US $1999.99
Mosstowie 45 Year Old 1973 Cask 7622
Mosstowie was a whisky produced for a short time at the Miltonduff distillery when it had a Lomond still, so effectively is a ghost whisky never to return. Bottled by Signatory this is a great expression. It has lots of sweet honey and some gorse flower aromas leading to a grassy style of whisky on the palate but still retaining soft stone fruits at its core. The finish is fine with woody notes and a little citrus. A refined whisky which has held its abv well over the 45 years it has spent in a cask. Only 410 bottles of this were produced and when it’s gone it’s gone.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 51.6%
Find here: £1494.99
Dallas Dhu 50 Year old 1969 (Gordon and MacPhail)
This is possibly the most astonishing whisky I have tasted over the last year. It is incredibly rich and complex, yet the tannin is so well balanced the whisky remains smooth with a great mouth feel and weight to it. The distillery closed in 1983 so Dallas Dhu is becoming rarer and rarer. This expression was matured in a refill sherry hogshead and only yielded 176 bottles when Gordon and MacPhail bottled it in 2019. My tasting notes for this were very long and as I left the whisky in the glass more and more aromas and flavours developed. The main ones being fruit cake with all the complexity that cake as, zesty orange and ginger spice, marzipan and toffee apples mix with a tiny bit of smoke. The tannins slowly build up bringing in wood flavours, and by the finish coffee, chocolate and heather flowers can be found.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 43.1%
Find here: £6,913.72
Strathisla 65 Year Old 1953 (Gordon and MacPhail)
Another release from the oldest independent bottler in the world, Gordon and MacPhail. Gordon and MacPhail are well known for releasing very well aged whisky, and with this release they have excelled themselves. Matured in a first fill sherry butt and bottled in 2019 there were only 143 bottled produced. There are lots of dried fruits and sherry aromas and flavours all the way through this whisky with older flavours like antique furniture polish and cloves and pencil box aromas. The palate opens with berry flavours and complex spices and dark chocolate. Fruity coffee, dark berries and oak make up the finish with a little cigar box in the background.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 43.5%
Find here: £12,500
Glenfarclas Family Cask Trunk
For any Glenfarclas fan, this is the ultimate collection and at the time of writing of the 60 made I found one left. I wish I could say I have tasted the entire collection from 1954 to 2003, but I haven’t, I have however tasted enough of them to experience the huge range of flavours, from delicate, fruity drams matured in a refill bourbon cask, like 1979 to massive sherry bombs with lots of tannin that are almost black in colour like 1971. Within the collection, there is just about every flavour imaginable, and even touches of smoke in some of the older expressions. The trunk comes with other accoutrements, such as a replica of the oldest painting of the distillery, the original, from 1791 hangs at the distillery, four coasters and three hand-painted leather-bound books which give tasting notes and distillery history. There are also four tumblers and four nosing glasses, and a water jug made by Glencairn Crystal. All in all, a marvellous collection which can be enjoyed over many World Whisky Days to come.
Size: 10000ml
ABV: 50.5%
Find here: £105,000
If you enjoyed this but are looking for an exceptional dram at a lower price point, have a read of The World’s Best Whisky or New and Exciting Whiskies to Try.