Have You Tried Wine From China?
Over here in the West, you might be forgiven for not having China top of mind when it comes to listing countries that produce fine wine - or any wine for that matter. As things stand, the Chinese wine output is still tiny, especially when you compare it to China’s famous spirit ‘Baijiu’ and the amount of international wine brands that are imported. Evidence has been found of grape fermentation in China and along the Silk Road dating back thousands of years before Christ, so it’s not exactly new. The modernised industry as we see it now however is only just starting to get going - and we couldn’t be more excited about it.
How to find Chinese wine in the UK
Of course, when a country’s output is so small, we tend to not be able to find much outside the country in question. Until now, that is. With the rise of wine companies championing producers from less obvious locations or smaller, more boutique producers that would never be looked at by the larger conglomerates, we’ve never had such good access to quality wines from around the globe. One such company that exists to do precisely this is Propeller. Located in Sherborne, Dorset, Propeller have set themselves up to help producers entering the UK market for the first time to jump the numerous hurdles they’ll inevitably face. At the same time, they assist with brand positioning and marketing and help get the wines into top merchants and wholesalers. It is through Propeller Wines that we were introduced to a fantastic producer based in Ningxia, China called Xige Estate. Tasting their wines was a real treat and - if we’re honest- a bit of a surprise. Here’s what you need to know about Xige Estate in China and what you should taste.
Wine from Ningxia, China
Ningxia is a very small, autonomous region located in north-central China with thousands of years of rich history. Today, despite its extreme climatic conditions and temperature swings, it has a growing reputation for premium winemaking, with some describing it as ‘The Bordeaux of China’ or ‘China’s Penfolds’. The first winery appeared here just over twenty years ago and now, the region boasts over a hundred wineries, with more licences being applied for all the time. Around 38,000ha of vines have already been planted, comprising at least sixty different varieties and this number is expected to grow exponentially over the next ten years thanks to substantial backing from the government and private investors. At the beginning, around fifteen years ago, winemakers were cautious and stuck to the famous Bordeaux grapes. It’s true that many of these are now flourishing, but some in the industry such as Xige have been keen to do things a little differently; to experiment with other grapes to get the very best out of the terroir here - and to great effect.
Xige Estate, Helan Mountain, Ningxia
Xige Estate was founded in 2017 and finished in 2019, though the wines belonging to the estate had already been in place for twenty years. The winery is the brainchild of investor and ex-Changyu winemaker Zhang Yanzhi and was founded with the aim to show that Chinese wine deserves a place on the world stage of not just fine wine, but wine that showcases its terroir to give it a real sense of place, even on a large scale. And it’s not just the world’s wine lovers that benefit; Ningxia was previously a relatively impoverished region that is now benefiting enormously from the growing wine industry. Xige Estate, for example, directly employs 300 people, with a team of 4 -700 more alone involved and employed in the upkeep of the vineyards, which are currently spread over 2000 hectares.
Wine style at Xige Estate
In terms of style, Xige Estate is placing a strong focus on more elegant, fresh and understated wines that work wonderfully with a wide range of international cuisines rather than uber-concentrated, jammy, fruit bombs. After trialling various grape varietals over their substantial vineyards, the team at Xige Estate have found that Chardonnay, Malbec and Cabernet Gernsicht, which is possibly an evolution of Carmenere, really shine in their Ningxia terroir. Experiments continue with Marselan, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Dunkelfelder, Chenin Blanc and Syrah. Having tasted the range, it’s clear to see that with Propeller’s help, Xige estate really could be the international face of Chinese wine.
Here are some delicious wines from the estate that will delight and surprise you and any guests you show them to. Go on, do a blind tasting. I wonder if they will work out where they are from!
Try these wines from Xige Estate:
Jade Dove White 2018
A blend of Italian Riesling and Ugni Blanc, this wine is rich, golden, peachy and aromatic in a different way than you might be used to. To us, this puts it up there on the winelovers’ terroir shelf as a must-try. A fabulous choice for food with sweeter spices, fish and poultry.
RRP: £22.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at: propeller.wine
Jade Dove Red, 2018
This red is made mostly with Cabernet Sauvignon and just a splash (5%) of Merlot. Intense, red and black fruit flavours are balanced by very subtle, French oak, silky tannins and a hint of smoky minerality.
RRP: £22.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at: propeller.wine, Baythorne Wines
Jade Dove Rosé, 2019
A vibrant, fruity blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Cabernet Gernischt, this pretty pink, which is made by the premium, saignée method, is fresh and elegant with notes of ripe strawberry, raspberry and cherry.
RRP: £22.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine
Xige N28, Chardonnay, 2019
This stunning Chardonnay evokes the elegance and freshness of a Chablis with the tropical, floral, melon and honey notes of a top end Argentinian Chardonnay and the structure of a great Burgundy, thanks to fermentation and ageing in oak. Creamy but refreshing with it, this is a great white to show what the terroir at Xige can do.
RRP: £27.95
Stockist: https://www.thewineseller.co.uk, https://www.cheerswinemerchants.co.uk, wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine
Xige N28, Malbec, 2019
Xige Estate were the first to spot Malbec’s potential in the Helan Mountain range and were the first to plant it commercially here. This Malbec brings all the concentrated, blueberry, cocoa and slatey mineral notes you’d want from a high altitude Malbec with proper, velvety soft tannins and a delicious umami note that gives it a real sense of place.
RRP: £24.95
Stockist: https://www.thewineseller.co.uk, https://www.cheerswinemerchants.co.uk, wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine
Xige N28, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019
Here we have a fine, well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon that could stand up to any classic, left-bank Bordeaux with its notes of slate and cedar, medicinal herbs and characteristic pop of cassis and warm spice. A fabulous wine that’s drinking now but will keep for at least five years - probably longer.
RRP: £24.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine
Xige N50, 2018
Another truly premium wine, the N50 is exceptional. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Gernischt taken from Xige Estate’s finest vineyard plots, this wine has achieved the highest critical acclaim of any Chinese wine so far, being described as ‘a masterclass in structure, restraint and elegance.’ We can only agree. It tastes fabulous now with its super-concentrated notes of blackcurrant leaf, baking spice, cedar and a slick, mineral backbone but will also go the distance when laid down, big time.
RRP: £29.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine
Jade Dove, Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt, 2018
At the top of the wine tree at Xige is this 100% Cabernet Gernischt, produced from vines that are 25-30 years-old, so are genuinely ‘old vines’ by Chinese standards. Here, the Cabernet Gernischt offers delicate, fine tannins and an intriguing nose of dried rose petals and Chinese herbs. So different from, say, a Chilean Carmenère to whom it’s meant to be related, this is a benchmark example of a Chinese version.
RRP: £37.95
Stockist: wine-embargo.co.uk
More info at propeller.wine
See more about Xige Estate here and Propeller Wine here.