oak barrels

What is rye whiskey and what should I buy?

Words by Colin Hampden-White

What is Rye Whiskey and what should I try thethreedrinkers.com

What is rye whiskey? Essentially, rye is a grain from which some whiskies are made. There are two main types of rye whisky: the first is American rye whiskey, which is similar to Bourbon but must be made with at least 51% rye. The second is Canadian whiskey, which, to make things complicated, can be labelled as rye for historical reasons but may not actually contain any rye in its creation.

Many other countries make rye whiskies, some of which are excellent and have recently won top medals in spirits competition. These, along with American rye whiskies, will state the fact that they are made from 100% rye whisky on the label.

American rye whiskey, as well as needing to be made from over 51% rye, is also made with corn, malted barley and wheat. It has to be distilled to no more than 80% ABV and can only be filled into barrels at no higher than 62.5% ABV. It must be aged for a minimum of two years and not blended with any other spirits in able to to be called straight ‘rye whiskey’.

In Canada, despite rye not actually having to be used, the whiskey must have a character that is historically associated with Canadian whiskey, and rye characteristics are included in that flavour profile. These days, most Canadian whiskies are blended to achieve this character trait. They blend corn and wheat in used barrels and even use a small amount of flavouring, which is created from a mash (the porridge created to make the liquid which is then fermented and distilled in whiskey making), using rye. Usually though, the blend can be as much as 90% corn or wheat.

Like elsewhere, there are whiskies that are 100% rye and Canadian whiskey has a few more rules: They cannot use barrels larger than 700 litres and the liquid must be aged for a minimum of three years, like Scotch. Unlike Bourbon (but again, like Scotch), the barrels can be new or used.

What is the taste profile of rye in whiskey?

Rye makes a big difference to how whiskies taste. Rye creates a spicy and a peppery flavour, especially on the back of the palate and finish. Bourbon distilled from at least 51% corn is sweeter and typically more full-bodied. Historically, rye was used more in the past and in fact, many bartenders are returning to rye in cocktails as it creates a dryer style, especially in a Whiskey Sours, Manhattans or Old Fashioneds.

With so many different rye whiskies on the market now it is difficult to navigate through the shelves or on-line stores to find something you might like. Here is a shortlist of ones to try and there should be a style to suit everyone, from the easy-going, Canadian rye to a full-bodied rye from Finland and a few countries in between….

Canadian Club

Canadian Club

I’ll start in Canada with Canadian Club, which is a slightly easier going style of rye whiskey. The proportion of rye isn’t stated, but the flavours are there and are sweet and slightly spicy, but not as sweet as a Bourbon, and the whiskey is smooth for rye. I think this is a great start to trying rye and a brilliant price point at under £20.

ABV: 40%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £17.95

Jim Beam Rye

Jim Beam rye

Crossing the border into the USA, there are plenty of options. The first I would try for a full-on rye experience is Jim Beam Rye; spicy right from the first sip and brilliant in cocktails. It has a caramel undercurrent keeping everything in balance. This is the best value rye whisky at under £30.

ABV: 40%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £24.90

Rittenhouse Rye 100 proof

Rittenhouse Rye

Staying in the USA, but raising the bar a little, I would choose Rittenhouse Rye 100 proof. This is a very aromatic rye and packs a good punch at 50% ABV. The typical rye flavours come through on the palate rather than the nose, with lots of fruity chocolate and orange flavours. Complex and spicy, this rye gives a more rounded flavour, rather than being overly spicy.

ABV: 50%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £44.75

Balcones Rye 100 proof

Balcones rye

My final choice in the USA is a big step up in the world of rye. It is more expensive, but gives you a full on rye experience as it is made from 100% rye. This was created for the tenth anniversary of the Balcones distillery. Made with several different varieties of rye this whisky is complex and spicy with plenty of power from a heightened ABV. It is chocolatey with orange zest and honey, cinnamon and baked apples on the nose. The palate is even more complex and full-bodied with chocolate and tobacco joining the flavours. The finish is dark brown burnt sugar and hints of char and dry oak. It’s one of my favourite rye whiskies.

ABV: 50%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £67.25

 Millstone 100

Millstone 100

Sailing across the pond, my first stop would be in the Netherlands with Millstone 100. This isn’t the cheapest rye in the world, but there is good reason for that. It is made from 100% rye, completely in small pot stills, matured for 100 months in new American oak barrels and bottled at 100 proof (50% ABV). It is hugely aromatic with hints of thyme on a brown sugar base. There is lots of cardamom and lemon zest. A full, complex and delicious rye whisky. 

ABV: 50%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £73.95

 Adnams Rye Malt

Adnams rye malt

Rye whiskey is even made in England so for my last suggestion I’m heading to the country in which I live. Adnams produce a brilliant example of rye whiskey made with English-grown rye from Reydon. It is said in old English that “rey” means rye and “don” means hill, and the rye has been grown in Reydon for centuries. This rye takes on the traditional style of rye with a large proportion of rye (75%), and a smaller proportion of barley. It is aged for at least five years in French oak and is not chill filtered, allowing all the flavour to reach the bottle.

ABV: 47%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £44.95

Having travelled all over the world in search of great rye whiskies these are the ones I would bring home. At the start of my rye journey I would try the inexpensive Jim Beam, and at the end of my journey I would drink the Balcones. From an old established distiller to a pretty new one, they are both from the USA. The rest of the world is catching up fast and there are some brilliant expressions that I would happily have in my cabinet. If you’ve enjoyed the journey and want to learn a little more about whiskies from the USA, then try these brilliant bourbon whiskies.

Best Bang for Buck Sipping Bourbon

Words by Colin Hampden-White

two-glasses-of-whiskey-with-ice-and-cowboy-hat-on--PA9QC7Z.jpg

Bourbon is having a boom. There are lots of new distilleries opening and some of the rare bourbons are becoming extremely expensive. The big brands are selling more than ever before with premium versions of their standard bottles selling more than ever. With so much bourbon on the market The Three Drinkers wanted to put a short list together of bourbon we have tried, didn’t cost the earth and think should be on anyone’s shopping list if you wanted to try bourbon that not only can be mixed to make great long drinks and cocktails, but which are fabulous to sip, read on.

 Eagle Rare 10

Eagle Rare 10 Year old

From the legendary Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky, comes Eagle Rare 10 Year Old. A spectacular Kentucky straight Bourbon whiskey, matured for at least a decade before making its way into its very smart bottle at 45% ABV. What's so distinctive about the bottles, you ask? Well, we're going to say it's the massive bald eagle, wings outstretched, looking like it's about to snatch up some dinner. Distinctive, yes? The whiskey is also pretty distinctive too, boasting full-bodied notes of toffee, orange peel and buttery corn. This is a bourbon for those who like them big and bold.

ABV: 45%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £36.99

Four Roses Small Batch

Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon

Four Roses Small Batch is a step up from the classic Four Roses Bourbon, showcasing the variety of mashbills that the distillers have to work with in Lawrenceburg - and their talents at making them sing together. Ten bourbon recipes are produced by Four Roses, and four of them are blended together to create this approachable but flavoursome expression. Great value-for-money, this whiskey has a huge amount of flavour for your buck and goes down very smoothly to boot. There are notes of manuka honey, winter spice, toasty oak, a little crème anglaise.

 ABV: 45%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £27.23

Yellowstone select Bourbon

Yellowstone Select Bourbon

From the Yellowstone range (owned by Limestone Branch and run by Steven Beam, which was founded to bring back the glory that Yellowstone once held many moons ago) comes the Select Bourbon. Full-bodied, with a good kick of rye lurking around in the background. If you like your Bourbon with a little nutmeg spice then you will love this. It is rather creamy with lots of vanilla fudge notes. Some herbaceous spice appears on the mid-palate giving lots of complexity.

ABV: 46.5%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £33.64

Woodford Reserve

Woodford Reserve Bourbon

The mashbill for Woodford Reserve features a high percentage of rye: 72% corn, 18% rye and 10% malt. Unusual also for being triple distilled and having the lowest proof upon entering the barrel where it matures for at least six years. A must have Kentucky bourbon. It is very thick and full. There are notes of espresso beans, winter spice, cereal sweetness, plenty of rye, ground ginger, almond oil, toasty oak and a little rum. A lovely whiskey to ponder as you sip.

 ABV: 43.2%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £33.99

Michter’s US*1 Bourbon

Michters US*1 Bourbon

The US*1 Bourbon from Michter's in Louisville, Kentucky, is made in small batches, typically comprised of no more than two dozen barrels. Top quality stuff, brimming with caramel, vanilla and fruit notes, alongside a pleasing earthy quality at its core. Even though this is produced in small batches, there is a core style which is particular to Michter’s which run through all the batches, with the batches giving extra interest as none are exactly the same. If you like this bourbon, the different batches will keep rewarding you time and time again.

 ABV: 45.7%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £53.83

Hudson Four Grain Bourbon

Hudson Four Grain Bourbon

Up in New York, Hudson Four Grain bourbon is made using the Tuthilltown distillery's unique recipe of corn, rye, wheat and malted barley. Hold on a minute, that’s four grains - like what the name says! Tuthilltown Spirits were producers of the first legal pot-still whiskey in New York since prohibition. Four Grain is aged in small three-gallon barrels to accelerate maturation, and each bottle is numbered and wax-dipped by hand. The interaction of the four grains is intriguing and rather unique, but certainly tasty.

 ABV: 46%
Size: 350ml
Buy it now for £36.13

Elijah Craig Small Batch

Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon

Elijah Craig has long been a favourite bourbon of many whiskey enthusiasts, and certainly is with The Three Drinkers - to the point where their stocks of 12 year old bourbon have been under a lot of pressure, not that we are drinking all of it! The producers made the decision to discontinue the 12 Year Old expression and create this expression to take its place. It manages to maintain the incredibly high quality that Elijah Craig is known for, including the delicious core of cooked apple drizzled in honey notes. This expression has been well received, taking home not one but two San Francisco World Spirits Competition Double Gold medals!

 ABV: 47%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £39.95

Wild Turkey Rare Breed Bourbon

Wild Turkey Rare Breed Bourbon

Wild Turkey's Rare Breed Bourbons are bottled at cask strength, and are often absolutely staggering. The bottles have had a little redesign recently, and look very stylish indeed - though the eponymous turkey on the label looks rather surprised to be there. This particular edition was bottled at 58.4% ABV. Heavy caramel and chocolate. A touch of smoke develops on the back pallet, there is brown sugar and touches of pepper on the finish too. This is a bourbon on for the feint hearted! 

ABV: 58.4%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £52.25

Brough Brothers Bourbon

Brough Brothers Bourbon

This came to our attention recently and we can’t recommend it highly enough. Brough Brothers Bourbon is the brilliant brainchild of Victor, Chris and Bryson Yarbrough in Louisville, Kentucky. A marvellous small batch Bourbon full of spicy sweetness, cooked fruit and toasty oak notes. Great for sipping, but it also shines in some classic cocktail recipes, too. At a bourbon that is under £30, we would have this in our drinks cabinet at all times. If you want a bourbon which is a true all-rounder, then this is the one to buy. We also love the funky label with the brothers on it.

ABV: 41%
Size: 700ml
Buy it now for £28.95 

Pappy Van Winkle 23

Pappy Van Winkle 23 year old bourbon

Now we know this is a whiskey which is beyond most of our pockets, but if you ever get the chance to try it on a special occasion in a restaurant or bar, then go for it, it is a truly memorable experience. This has to be the king of sipping whiskey. At 23 years old it has so much complexity, and yet is still simply pleasurable to drink, the complexity isn’t demanding yourw attention. With aromas of Dark fruit, espresso coffee, oak and buttery toffee. The flavours are rich and spicy. Oak underpinning nutty sweetness, honey and star anise come in on the finish. Produced yearly in very small batches, this hits the market at £250, however this increases to well over £2000 once sold out and bottles find their way onto the secondary market, which happens almost as soon as it is released. 

 ABV: 47.8%
Size: 700ml
Savour it if you get the chance

If you’ve enjoyed exploring bourbon then have a read about one of its founding fathers, and the man who taught Jack Daniels how to make whiskey: Uncle Nearest.

How do you like your eggs? The effect of vessels on wine flavour and texture

Gayda 9 vessels the three drinkers.jpg

The world of wine is changing so quickly, people like us need to do our best to keep up. With this in mind, the three of us were intrigued to attend a tasting held last week by award-winning Languedoc winery Domaine Gayda and their importer, New Generation. 

This fascinating tasting showcased the dramatically different effects that vessels used to age wine can have on its flavour and texture. Why is this important? These days, most consumers are looking for wines that can be opened straight away rather than laying them down to age for years, so winemakers from regions with traditionally heavier red blends such as the Languedoc have had to revise their techniques. Forward-thinking Gayda have been experimenting extensively since 2012 to see which methods produce the most delicious wines that can be drunk straight away.  Here’s what they trailed and what we found.

The vineyards at Domain Gayda. Credit: www.gaydavineyards.com

The vineyards at Domain Gayda. Credit: www.gaydavineyards.com

Same grape, vineyard, vintage and fermentation

To do this experiment, the domaine took exactly the same wine (100% Syrah from 30 year old vines in the south-east facing, Col de la Dona vineyard in Roussillon, harvested by hand and fermented in stainless steel) before transferring it into nine different vessels and left for nine months. Here’s what they used and the effects we tasted on the wine in practice:

Stainless Steel Tank (1500 litres)

Considered to be the benchmark for a neutral sample. Result expected: Clean, bright fruit and lean texture.

Terracotta Egg (700 litres)

The most amount of oxygen exchange expected due to porosity of the material. Egg shape allows for most amount of liquid and lees movement. Result expected: a more oxidative style with overripe fruit and juicy texture.

Concrete Egg (1600 litres)

Inert and cool with little oxygen exchange. Egg shape allows for most amount of liquid and lees movement. Result expected: Freshness, minerality and aromatics.

Plastic Egg (High density polyethylene egg - 1000 litres)

Plastic but with oxygen exchange to mimic a new oak oak barrel (17 mg/l per year oxygen transmission). Liquid and lees movement. Result expected: Freshness and aromatics with perhaps a wider, more lush texture from the extra oxygen.

Oak Foudre (v large barrel -2000 litres)

Oxygen exchange and a good amount of lees and liquid movement allowed. Result expected: ripest fruit with noticeably creamy texture.

Oak Barrel 500 litre (1 year old)

Half the size of a foudre and quite new, with some movement of liquid and lees. Result expected: subtle oak flavour and marked tannic structure with some creaminess from oxygen exchange.

Oak Barrel 228 litre (1 year old)

Half the size again and quite new, with some movement of liquid and lees. Result expected: more noticable oak flavour and heavier tannic structure.

Oak Barrel 228 litre (3 years old)

As above but after two more years of use. Result expected: less oak influence in terms of flavour, but a creamy structure because of the oxygen exchange. 

Sandstone Jar

The material and shape of this jar allows for the least amount of oxygen exchange and movement of liquid and lees. Result expected: reduced flavours (a bit stinky and sulphurous), savoury notes and less fruit. 

Conclusions

The differences were clear, but there we certainly some surprises. The most perfumed, pretty aromatics came from the eggs, especially the plastic one with its oxygen exchange system. The large oak barrel gave a wine that felt it had developed too early; that was overripe and lush, but would probably not go on much longer. The traditional stainless steel felt less fresh and round in comparison to the eggs, highlighting that these new vessels really do have a great place and purpose in modern winemaking. The more classic vessels - the smaller oak barrels -gave the most classic result of slightly spiced, textural wines with open, ripe fruit, but they still felt that they would be best tasted after a bit more time.

All in all, this was an incredibly interesting experiment that made most people in the room rethink their preconceptions about which materials do what to wine. It’s worth noting however that this was a big, ballsy Syrah and the results will be slightly different with other grape varieties. It’s all about choosing your vessel according to desired style. As Gayda winemaker Vincent Chansault says, it’s just like pots and pans for cooking. You chose one over another to add a certain nuance to your dish. With wine, it’s just the same.

Taste the Syrah

Syrah plays a large part in Gayda’s top wine: Chemin de Moscou

  • Try Chemin de Moscou 2015 RRP £29.95 from Amazon

See more about Domaine Gayda

See more about New Generation Wines

By Helena Nicklin