Food and Drink in Britain have been intrinsically connected for over two thousand years since the Romans turned cheesemaking into an industry to complement their belief that wine was a daily necessity. Historically it’s become widely accepted that cheese and wine go together as one of the ‘Greatest Of All Time’ (G.O.A.T) food and drink pairings.
SUMMER LOVING
Last month the UK celebrated National Cheese & Wine Day. Yes, we love the combination so much, that we have a national day for it - in summer. Traditionally the average Brit racks up the lion’s share of their annual cheese and wine consumption around Christmastime. Most often when we shop for cheese in December we’ll pick out a selection of familiar favourites including French soft cheeses and a generic fuller-bodied red wine to go with it. Or if we feel lazy we’ll opt for a cheese selection pack from the supermarket for our Christmas table. Forget for a moment your winter-time ‘Port and Stilton’ mindset and let’s take this duo al fresco for summer. Think picnics, opulent seaside snacking and sipping, proms in the park, music or food festivals or any other outdoor grown-up gathering with or without kids around.
For this article I connected with DRINKLUSIVE mentor, Cheese and Wine Connoisseur Jessica Summer from mouseandgrape.com. Mouse & Grape has been featured in top publications, on BBC Saturday Kitchen and BBC Radio London thanks to Jessica’s ability to demystify wine and cheese pairings with her engaging storytelling. Beyond her media presence, she collaborates with brands and serves as a judge in cheese and wine competitions. I asked her:
“What are some of the best British wines to drink with cheese for a summer picnic?”
In this article, I share five of Jessica’s pairing recommendations from different regions of the UK and add some additional suggestions to include in your picnic hamper. Jessica’s rule of thumb when it comes to British cheese and wine pairing is “what grows together goes together”.
It seems, contrary to common belief, red wine does not always make the best companion for cheese. The UK boasts such a wealth of artisan cheeses (750 different varieties compared to France’s 400) we should perhaps refrain from reaching for something French de rigueur, and instead see our nation’s craftsmanship as an opportunity to Buy British, try new varieties and support our cheesemaker’s businesses in the process. If travelling in the UK this summer, do make sure to taste the local cheeses and wines whilst you’re away too. According to Jessica, the unique terroir of each region is expressed in their cheese and wine, weaving together a fascinating story of their origin. Terroir refers to how the environment, including soil, climate, and other natural factors, influences the taste and characteristics of cheese and wine. It gives them a distinct sense of place and identity.
The British wine scene is experiencing a remarkable surge in popularity, particularly in the realm of sparkling wines. “An astonishing 79% of medals awarded to English wine are granted to sparkling wines. A remarkable 30 British Vineyards have been recognised and celebrated in recent years for their contributions to the world of wine. In a similar vein, British cheeses have been causing quite a stir on the international stage with an impressive tally of awards at the World Cheese Awards.”
HAMPSHIRE
Hampshire’s temperate maritime climate and diverse soils create favourable growing conditions for Chardonnay and Pinot grape varieties allowing for several sparkling wines to be produced on various vineyard estates across the county.
The region’s agricultural traditions and local expertise combine with the nutrient-rich and diverse Hampshire pastures where dairy cows graze and produce exceptional milk for cheesemaking.
Jessica’s Top Hampshire Selection:
Hampshire Cheese Co Winslade and Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV
Winslade is a cross between a Vacherin and Camembert encircled by a spruce strip to impart a delicate woody aroma. The cheese is matured and sold when it’s fully ripe, rich, silky smooth and gooey. Its flavour is full, fruity and complex but not overpowering. It has a floral earthiness.
Find here: £9.50 (230g)
Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV is a heavenly, multi-award-winning sparkling wine produced exclusively on the Hambledon estate on the southeast-facing chalk slopes of Windmill Down in the South Downs National Park. It has quintessential British aromatic blossom characteristics and tasting will elegantly unfold to reveal layers of floral and stone fruit aromas.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £26.99
If picnicking, remember to pack a mini chopping board and paring knife in your hamper before you set out because we reckon this duo will be best served with freshly cut wedges of Granny Smith apple to counterpoint the creamy Winslade. Charcuterie and cornichons also recommended.
SOMERSET
Somerset’s clay, limestone and loam soil provide diverse conditions for several grape varieties to thrive in the region’s climate which allows for a wider range of flavour profiles of wine. Vineyards mainly focus on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier.
Nestled in the heart of the Westcountry are lush pastures and world-renowned expertise in cheesemaking that yields high-quality cheese to reflect the unique flavours of the local terroir. Cheddar, of course, takes its name from the village in Somerset of the same name where it originated, but as cheddar cheese has no Protected Designation of Origin it can be produced all over the world.
Why not try something different to Cheddar, from the same terroir?
Jessica’s Somerset Pairing Recommendation:
White Lake Dairy Driftwood
Driftwood is a beautifully creamy and soft-textured cheese made from unpasteurised goat’s milk. It’s an ash-coated, young, fresh and zesty cheese with a pleasing saltiness which perfectly complements the elegant and aromatic nose of Wraxall’s Bacchus wine, also produced in Shepton Mallett.
Find here: £12.50 (215g)
Wraxall Vineyard Bacchus Reserve
Delicate and floral with flavours of ripe orchard fruits and spring blossom, it has a lovely richness from 20%-barrel fermentation in neutral oak. This still white wine is supported by a bright mineral core and a long, persistent finish which beautifully accentuates the citrusy notes in the cheese, while the wine’s fruity qualities shine, creating a delightful symphony of flavours. This pairing is delicious with a little dollop of chilli jam.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £22
NORFOLK & SUFFOLK
The region’s diverse soils, ranging from sandy to loamy and clay, accommodate various grape varieties, each adding distinct characteristics to the wines. Combined with the skill of local cheesemakers, this fertile landscape yields a variety of top-notch cheeses that authentically reflect the region’s flavours imparted by its soil and vegetation.
Jessica’s Top Norfolk/Suffolk Combination:
Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod
Fen Farm’s Baron Bigod is a stunning brie-style cheese, with a rich, full, earthy flavour and a lingering finish. It’s made by Jonny Crickmore from the milk of his own herd of Montbeliarde cows in Suffolk.
2022 Flint Vineyard Charmat Rosé
Flint’s iconic Charmat Rosé blends the grapes of England (11 varieties matched to Flint’s Norfolk terroir) with the production method of Prosecco making it the perfect sparkling rosé aperitif for a summer evening. Beautiful pink hues and lifted fruit aromas, the 2022 vintage exudes the essence of Summer Fruit Pudding and has a satisfyingly thirst-quenching finish to complement the creaminess of the cheese. The earthy flavour contrasts with the fruity cheese and brings out the wine’s strawberry and cream flavours. For this reason, as well as your cheese and local breads, you might as well include some fresh juicy strawberries and grapes in your hamper too.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £24.75
OXFORDSHIRE & BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire have diverse soil types, including limestone-rich soils in some areas, which offer excellent drainage for vineyards. Other parts have clay and loamy soils, suitable for different grape varieties.
Both regions experience a temperate climate with moderate summers and mild winters, creating favourable conditions for grape cultivation and fertile pastures for grazing.
Jessica’s Top Oxfordshire/Buckinghamshire combination:
Nettlebed Creamery Bix
Though technically not from the same county, the vineyard and farmhouse dairy are just 30 minutes apart (across the boundary) so this irresistible combination simply couldn’t be overlooked. Made in Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, Nettlebed Creamery’s Bix, is a soft cheese with a luxurious, evolving texture from crème fraiche to clotted cream, ultimately transforming into a creamy, rich delight.
Find here: £5.95 (100g)
Harrow & Hope Blanc de Noirs 2018
It pairs perfectly with the superb brioche and berry-fresh English fizz from Henry Laithwaite’s trophy-winning Harrow & Hope vineyard in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. This ensemble embodies all the winning flavour elements of the classic British strawberries and cream – a truly quintessential English experience!
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12%
Find here: £42
DEVON
The region’s milder winters and warmer summers allow for a longer grape-growing season, resulting in wines with distinctive regional characteristics. With a mix of sandy and clay soils, South Devon cultivates various grape varieties, while its nutrient-rich pastures support high-quality milk for cheese-making. The skilled cheesemakers and fertile landscapes contribute to a variety of high-quality cheeses, reflecting the terroir’s influence and establishing Devon’s reputation as a notable destination for wine and cheese enthusiasts seeking distinctive and outstanding products.
Jessica’s Top Devon Combination:
Sharpham Dart Valley Reserve
Set in a south-facing bowl and overlooking the River Dart, Sandridge Barton, the home of Sharpham wine, produces outstanding English wines just 9 miles away from Sharpham Dairy. Their ripe and fruit-driven white wine showcases stone fruit notes of white peach, while the rounded palate features sweet apricot and subtle spice.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 11%
Find here: £16.49
Sharpham Ticklemore Goat
Pair it with Ticklemore Goat, a stark white cheese with a delicate texture and mellow, herbaceous flavour. This perfect pairing elevates the creamy character of the cheese and enhances the peach flavours in the wine, making it an ideal choice for a delightful summer indulgence.
Find here: £6.50 (220g)
So there you have it. Five new cheeses to try matched with a quality English wine from a vineyard of the same region. By embracing our rich culinary heritage and exploring the unique terroir of each region, we can truly appreciate the magic that happens when cheese and wine come together. So, the next time you plan a cheese and wine gathering, whether in or outdoors (and whatever the season) remember to follow Jessica Summers’ “what goes together grows together” rule.
And don’t just default to buying French wines and cheeses, remember to explore the many award-winning hidden gems of Britain. If you still wish to retain a little French in your life, try spending more of your disposable income on good quality food like the French do, and eat cheese for breakfast like they do on the continent. It’s healthy, it fills you up and has loads of nutrition. Yes, it has fat, but we all need a bit of that. And next time the occasion arises to buy a special gift for a cheese lover or you just want to indulge yourself, check out The Ultimate Rosé Cheese Hamper from Mouse & Grape for £75. There’s an option to add blue cheese to your order, as well as truffle honey and a corkscrew. Ooh la la. What’s not to love about that?
By Robbie Jerram
