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We’ve seen various grape varieties take their place in the sun over the last few years especially in the UK market. With some, it’s because they are easy to say. With others, it’s because the wines from that region offer a clear, recognisable personality. Enter Albariño in this camp; the white wine grape taking the wine world by storm as consumers seek out whites with flavour and freshness as well as complexity and texture. Here’s everything you need to know about Spain’s flagship white wine grape from the country’s premium white wine region: Rías Baixas.
The Mermaid of Wine Grapes
You know us and our penchant for describing grape varieties as personalities? Well in our minds, Albariño is the elegant mermaid of wine grapes, swimming in the stormy seas of Galicia. Imagine the scent of ripening lemons, wet granite rocks and sea spray as she calls us with her siren song, that pale and peachy complexion shining in the water. In a classic tasting note, Albariño is pale, dry, crisp and fresh with notes of lemon citrus, white peach and a cool, saline kick on the finish.
Albariño from Rías Baixas
The stunning region of Rías Baixas can be found on the southwestern coast of Galicia, which itself is located to the very northwest of Spain. It’s a beautiful location made up of lots of small fjords (known as rias) set out over four estuaries. Compared to the rest of Spain, Rías Baixas is particularly green thanks to its high rainfall and misty mornings. It does also however boast over 2,200 hours of sunshine per year, which together help vines produce healthy, ripe grapes.
As a wine region, Rías Baixas comprises of five distinct subregions, which each offer subtle variations on the classic Albariño style thanks to differences in their geography, though there tends to be granite-heavy, mineral-rich soils throughout. These sub regions are Ribeira do Ulla, Val do Salnés, Soutomaior, Condado do Tea and O Rosal. You will currently see these on the label as Rías Baixas Salnés, Rías Baixas Condado and Rías Baixas Rosal only. If the wines are simply labelled ‘Rías Baixas Albariño’, it means they are made with 100% Albariño grapes from any sub-zone.
Unusual vines
Due to the humidity in the region, vines are often planted up to seven feet high to allow air to circulate (thus preventing mildew) and helping the grapes to ripen evenly. The vines are supported by granite posts called ‘parras’ where they form canopies and the bunches are harvested in the Autumn by pickers from below. If you drive around the region, you will see lots of small vineyards with these parras, all owned by single families. There is a long history of artisan families passing down their vines through the generations and this is why hand harvesting has also always been important as this is how it was always done. Combine this with the unique terroir in Rías Baixas and wines that so beautifully express their sense of place and you have real fine wines in your hands.
More than just a white wine
Unusually for a Spanish wine region, 99% of all wines made in Rías Baixas are white and of these, 96% of the grapes used are Albariño! Of the remaining 4%, there are 13 other local grapes allowed in the DO; most of which are blended with Albariño, though you will occasionally see some of them standing alone. The most important ‘other’ grapes are Treixadura, Caiño Blanco, Torrontes, Loureiro and Godello. Red wine is made in Rías Baixas (Rías Baixas Tinto) but it’s rare at under 1%. Sparkling wines (Rías Baixas Espumoso) are also still very rare, but we are starting to see some well-known producers experimenting - and to great effect.
Albariño wine style trends in Rías Baixas
Here’s the geeky part! Producers of Albariño in Rías Baixas have been experimenting over the last few years, finding ways to make their wines age for longer, to create more food friendly styles and generally put this grape through its paces to see what it is capable of. As a result, we are seeing producers try more maceration of the grapes with their skins before fermentation, which increases the aromatics and gives more structure. They're opting for native yeasts to kick off this ferment too as they've noticed that it gives the wine a more authentic, less generic flavour. In very ripe years, some barrel ageing (Rías Baixas Barrica) is now starting to be used to tone down the overt fruit and balance things up, offering a more robust texture. One particularly exciting development however, is seeing producers let the wine sit on its lees for longer (the dead yeast cells left after fermentation). This gives body, weight and structure to the wines and means they can age for a bit longer. It also means that these wines can take a bit more on the food matching front, from nutty cheese to creamy, chicken and rich fish dishes.
What to eat with Albariño
Albariño was born by the sea so naturally, it should be a top choice for fish and seafood. The lighter, more zesty styles are great by themselves or make a fantastic aperitif with salmon blinis or fresh sheep cheese. The weightier, more lees-aged or barrel-aged wines can take some heavier textures and flavours, be that nuttier cheese or grilled, smoky flavours. Creamy pork and potato dishes work well here too. All in all, it’s a very versatile grape variety!
Try these Albariño Wines
We’re seeing more and more Albariño from Rías Baixas in the UK every year, with exports having increased by twenty five times in the last nine years alone. Many supermarkets now stock their own label Albariño wines as well as carrying key brands and more gastronomic styles of wines can also be found in independent shops, bars and restaurants. Here are some to try.
You & Me Albariño
With grapes harvested from Salnés Valley, which is the most northern and coolest subzone of Rías Baixas, this wine is perky and fresh with floral notes and a touch of peach. Very easy drinking.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £13.99
Serra da Estrela Albariño, Adegas Valmiñor 2020
Another refreshing Albariño with a touch more body and great salinity. Think peaches, lemon peel and white flowers. So pretty!
Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Find here: £13
Lagar de Cervera Albariño
A creamier, weightier drop this thanks to some extended lees ageing, making it a perfect match for food such as white fish and seafood. Grapes harvested in O Rosal and Condado.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £14.99
Linar de Vides Albarino, Bodegas Coto Redondo
Another elegant white with the perfect balance of citrussy freshness and creamy texture. This is the wine to take home to meet the parents. A great all-rounder, with or without food.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 12.5%
Find here: £14.99
For more wine content make sure you check out these articles next.
