Sunny Hodge: The Cynic's Guide to Wine

Photo Credit: Daniel Ogulewicz

We sat down with Sunny Hodge, founder and owner of multi-award winning bars Diogenes the Dog and Aspen and Meursault, DRINKLUSIVE mentor, and now author of The Cynic’s Guide to Wine, to learn more about his brand-new book.

What first got you into wine, and why 'The Cynic's Guide to Wine'?

I've been in hospitality for my entire professional life. Right around the time that I wanted to open my own spot - now Diogenes the Dog in Elephant & Castle - I was pretty confident with all things restaurant, except wine! It made no sense to me; and seemed like more storytelling over substance. In previous places I'd managed we could all sell the stuff, bottles sold for £4000 a pop, and it always seemed like we were regurgitating lines we'd learnt to sell the wines, but guests lapped it up.

Back then, it never made any technical sense, even after studying wine through traditional routes, so I decided to take the leap and open a wine bar whose concept was based around helping guests understand how wine works.

Being 'Cynical' in the truest sense of the word is about questioning the status Quo. This book in true Diogenes the Dog (the founder of Cynicism) style; questions our existing beliefs on how wine works, and utilises science to forge a path forwards.

Science isn't always a fun read, who is this book meant for?

I can vouch for that, I studied Mechanical Engineering at University, and boy, I don’t miss any of it.

The Cynic's Guide to Wine is a science of wine book aimed at foodies upwards. The science is broken down at each step along the way, tied in with some of my real life experiences in wine and life, and made applicable to utilise for wine and food decision making. It's the type of read that just makes sense, and similar to Chris van Tulleken’s book, Ultra Processed People - once you read it, you can't unread it!

There's also a lot of new scientific insights along the way, plus explanations of simple concepts that people take for granted in wine - like why do yeasts do what they do? Because of all the new info, it has a huge benefit for even the most expert of wine enthusiasts as well as novice wine lovers. 

Background Photo Credit: Daniel Ogulewicz

There's a lot of debunking of common wine myths in the book, how do readers know that your explanation is accurate?

In the spirit of Cynicism, what a brilliant question!

For so long in wine we've just listened to experts and assumed that what they are saying is correct. Wine is a huge topic, we have to trust those in charge right?

Well, with The Cynic's Guide to Wine I encourage you to question, the entire book is referenced to academic studies and research, it's all rooted in science and none of it my opinion. I ask questions along the way, and encourage readers to do the same. This book serves as a solid building block to learn and develop further into wine and food - backed by the latest academic studies across a range of different fields from soil science, microbiology, chemistry to neuroscience.

What sort of things does the book debunk?

Soil is a huge one which the book actually kicks off with. For so long we've marketed and spoken about wine and soil types and drawn up crude correlations to why wines taste the way that they do. Soils like clay and limestone are brandished on wine bottles, but what difference does this make? And how does this affect our wine? The book gets into the nitty gritty of this and reveals what in soil makes a difference, and what doesn't.

I'd also say that the final chapter is hugely revealing, it's all about how we perceive flavour neurologically and how much is subjective vs genetic bias. Hugely geeky but interesting stuff which changes the way we think about food and drink entirely. 

What's next?

The two bars are somewhat of a handful as is. I also do a fair bit of wine judging throughout the year which I enjoy hugely, so I've got a lot on my plate to keep me busy enough.

That said, I’m developing an online course in wine science, aptly named the 'Science of Wine Course'. I'd like to make it a qualification which could take a while to get approved. It may take a year or two to get there, but I will be posting updates on my socials.

You can pick up your very own copy of The Cynic’s Guide to Wine from the retailers below:

Amazon
Waterstones
Academie du Vin

The Cynic’s Guide to Wine book signing will take place at The Book Elephant in Elephant and Castle on April 5th between 2pm and 6pm!

Why do hangovers get worse with age?

Remember your early 20s? After a few too many drinks, you’d wake fresh as a daisy, ready to tackle work, run a marathon, pen a bestseller. But, as we slip into later life, our hangovers become incapacitating. Pounding headaches, nausea and hangxiety (read our piece on what that is here) can all turn up after just a couple of tame pints at the pub. Even choosing what to watch on Netflix becomes a chore.

It’s not just your imagination  though - there is some science behind it. According to physicians, as you age, your body’s metabolism slows down and that doesn’t just mean the inevitable waistline expansion. Your body no longer metabolises certain things, including alcohol, as well because your liver doesn’t work quite as efficiently as it did when you were 21.

Enzymes in your liver begin to process alcohol by breaking it down into acetaldehyde, a toxin commonly thought to be a contributor to hangover symptoms. From there, enzymes break the acetaldehyde down into non-toxic acetate. But, here’s the thing: your liver can only do that so fast, and it gets slower as you age. So, in effect, acetaldehyde hangs around in your body for longer, getting pushed into your bloodstream – and increasing that grim hungover feeling.

Of course, there are other factors at play. Your genetics are important – we all have those annoying friends who ‘don’t get hangovers’, at any age – as is the quantity you drink and how often. And, perception matters. You might recall that you didn’t get hangovers when you were younger, but was that really true? Your hangovers may be more about feeling anxious and having low productivity rather than nausea and headaches. 

Earlier in life, feeling rubbish after a big night out with mates almost feels like a badge of honour. Yet over time, the novelty wears off. And, when combined with increased responsibilities like high-pressured jobs or childcare, hangovers genuinely are worse  - and longer - than they used to be as you take longer to recover. 

Want to know why we get ‘hangxiety?’ Read all about it here.