Words by Helena Nicklin
Pinot Noir: the red grape like a female dancer, graceful and elegant in a cherry silk gown, dancing barefoot in a lavender field. She may be notoriously temperamental and some may find her too thin, but her haunting beauty and ability to make complex moves look so smooth is mesmerising.
Pinot is famously difficult to work with, which is why they can sometimes be a bit hit and miss. When all conditions are perfect and the masters get hold of it however; oh man. You’ll want to bathe in the stuff! Pale in colour, light bodied and elegant, with high acidity and very low tannin, Pinot can taste like a red wine but feel like a white, which is part of its universal charm. Couple this with a sensual, silky texture and an ethereal perfume of spiced cherry, lavender, raspberry compote and earth, and you'll understand why people spend crazy amounts on the top bottles.
FACT: Pinot Noir is one of the three main grapes used in Champagne, along with Chardonnay and the lesser-known Pinot Meunier. If you have a ‘Blancs de Noir’ Champagne, it has been made with the red grapes only: usually Pinot Noir and often with a touch of Pinot Meunier.
PINOT NOIR TASTING TOUR
Pinot Noir loves a cool climate and there are now incredible Pinot Noirs from many places around the globe. These are the classic places to begin your journey however, with some rapidly rising stars to seek out.
Pinot Noir 1: Burgundy, France: If it’s red and from Burgundy (aka Bourgogne), it’s going to be Pinot Noir (99.9%of the time). The best ones need a few years of age on them to develop those ‘haunting’ notes. Think spicy cherry, lavender and marzipan. They’re delicate, earthy, understated and old school in style.
Try: Volnay, Cyrot-Buthiau, £34.95 from Corneyandbarrow.com
Pinot Noir 2: New Zealand is Pinot’s most famous (arguably) New World home. Here, it’s slightly easier drinking and fruit, yet serious. The concentrated, savoury red fruit and cinnamon notes have won hearts and palates worldwide. Head to Central Otago, Martinborough and Marlborough for great ones.
Try: Escarpment Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand. £25 (£22.95 mix six price) from Majestic.
Pinot Noir 3: California: The fog-cooled parts of coastal California give their Pinots softness, while that ripe, sweet, juicy fruit still shines through. They’re all about strawberries and cream on a bed of red velvet. Look for some from Sonoma County and Russian River Valleys.
Try: Sebastiani Pinot Noir, Sonoma Country, £25 from Dulwich Vintners
Rising Stars
England: Some of our best English wineries have recently started producing some excellent, still Pinot Noirs. Kent and Sussex seem to be particularly strong at this. They’re silky, cool and elegant with fresh red fruit flavours and often, a touch of spice.
Try: Gusbourne, Boot Hill Pinot Noir 2018. £35 from Gusbourne.com
Romania: Romania has a talent for making excellent, inexpensive, seriously easy-drinking cherry-bomb wines from Pinot Noir. Don’t expect the complexity of Burgundy, but for under £10 as they often are, these are rocking value and there are many new ones on the scene.
Try: Sanziana Pinot Noir, Cramele Recas 2018. £8.95 from Corneyandbarrow.
Like this? See our article on the most sought after Pinot Noir, a One Minute Wine Ace feature on Sauvignon Blanc and a more indepth look into Malbec.