Words by Helena Nicklin
Weren’t there always at least four people in your class with the same first name at school? In my year, it was Kate: fat ones; skinny ones; drippy ones; foreign ones, you name it! Variations on a theme of Kate were popular the world over.
It was hard to work out how to feel about Kates, because just as you had decided that you hated the name because of spotty-faced Kate who smelled of potato, you met supermodel-in-training Kate who had a perm and older friends who could get into nightclubs. Suddenly, you wanted to name all your future children Kate. Even the boys.
Well, Chardonnay is the wine version of Kate. The sheer number of styles you’ll find worldwide can make it difficult to pin down your thoughts on it. After all, nearly every wine-producing region in the world has a go at growing it! And as styles of this wine go, Chardonnay moves from the sublime to the ridiculous, being responsible for some of the greatest white wines in the world. Climate and winemaking techniques may leave their mark, but the key elements will always be there somewhere: look for a golden colour, ripe melon flavour and a fuller body than many other white varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. Vanilla and buttery notes are also good indicators that the wine is a Chardonnay. Try it unoaked for a true reading of its merits.
Tasting Tour
Wine regions all over the world are making wine with Chardonnay, but here are some keys styles to try first. Taste them together (in moderation, of course) and then go out and explore the world of Chardonnay! One thing to bear in mind with Chardonnay: what you pay for is very much what you get.
Chardonnay 1: Chablis, France. Yes, Chablis is always made from Chardonnay. It’s just named after the region in northern France rather than the grape, as often happens in Europe. Don’t be that person who ‘loves Chablis but hates Chardonnay! Chablis has a particular style that’s lean, mineral and elegant, thanks to the very cool climate there and its famously chalky soil. If it were a Kate, it would be Kate Moss, the catwalk model. Start with a Petit Chablis, then a straight Chablis before working up to the Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis wines, which are fabulous, but a bit richer and often have a touch of oak - getting towards the classic ‘Burgundian’ style of Chardonnay (see below). Chablis, by the way, is technically part of the greater Burgundy region, but it’s slightly removed, just to the north west of Burgundy ‘proper’ and while it’s all still Chardonnay for the whites, the styles are distinctly different.
Try: Chablis, Domaine Louis Moreau. £17.99 Ocado
A great producer making classic Chablis. Lean, chalky and refreshing. Excellent with seafood.
Chardonnay 2: Burgundy, France. The greater Burgundy region in France also has its own style that tends to be fuller-bodied, with more fruit and savoury oakiness than Chablis. Golden, complex and sophisticated, this is the Kate Winslet of wine. The oscar winner - statuesque and structured, with a lot to say. Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is one of the world’s most famous regions for Chardonnay. It’s also a region with many villages, the names of which will be shown on the label in large letters - villages you may have heard of like Puligny-Montrachet or Macon or Meursault. These still fall under the general umbrella style of Burgundy as I’ve described but each will have their own nuances thanks to their specific geography.
Try: Domaine Carrette, Pouilly Fuissé 2017. £22.95 from CorneyandBarrow
A popular style from the Maconnais in southern Burgundy. Rich, ripe fruit and spice with refreshing acidity.
Chardonnay 3: Mornington Peninsula, Australia. The country that put Chardonnay on the map for a new generation is doing incredible things with this grape, especially from the relatively cooler parts, like Mornington Peninsula in the south and Margaret River on the coast in the west. Think exotic, ripe fruit with a zingy freshness. It’s a million miles away from those cloying Chards of the early ‘90s.
Try: Ten Minutes by Tractor, Estate Chardonnay, 2015. £36 mix six price from Majestic.
The is the Cate Blanchett of wine styles: cool and restrained, this is an elegant Chardonnay with plenty of structure. Made in a Burgundian style with French oak but showcasing an extra dollop of pure fruit.
Chardonnay 4: California, USA. The best Californian Chardonnays are like actress Kate Hudson: golden, curvy California girls with brains, capable of fun as well as complex roles, and everyone wants them at a party. Napa and Sonoma are the places that fly with it.
Try: Mannequin Chardonnay 2017, Orin Swift. £46 from winebuyers.com
Brilliant, mind-boggling label aside, this Chardonnay is multi-layered with notes of melon, honey and nectarine supported by a well-integrated oak spice. Velvety and mouth-filling, it’s a real head-turner.
Chardonnay 5: Blanc de Blancs Champagne or Sparkling Wine. ‘Blanc de Blancs’ with fizz usually means it’s made from 100% Chardonnay and the style is more ethereal, fine boned and delicate in its youth than the wines traditionally blended with the red Champagne grapes (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier). With age, it puts on weight and becomes deliciously creamy and rich.
Try: Charles Palmer Blanc de Blancs 2014, £26.10 on offer from charlespalmer-vineyards.co.uk
Incredible value bubbles with some age on them. Deliciously creamy thanks to extra lees ageing. Would be lovely with seafood and anything umami, like parmesan cheese snacks. If it were a person it would be Kate Middleton. Elegant and English, with porcelain skin…
If you like this, try Helena’s One Minute Wine Ace features on Pinot Noir, Cotes du Rhone and Sauvignon Blanc