Words by Helena Nicklin
This article produced by Helena was originally written for and published by Luxurious Magazine in January 2020.
You may have heard about the rise of English fizz; you may still be sceptical, but having kept a close eye on the industry over the last sixteen years, I can tell you that we’ve now, officially, nailed it. Our relatively new English wine industry has observed the successes and failures of hundreds of years of winemaking globally, waiting patiently until the time was right; until temperatures had increased just enough to put England on a par climatically with the world’s most famous sparkling wine-producing region. In some parts of the English south coast, the soils are almost identical to those of the Côte des Blancs in Champagne. Couple that with an almost identical climate in places, the same grape varieties, same ‘traditional method’ used, cutting edge equipment, experienced winemakers and vines that are finally coming of age and you’ll see precisely how we are now creating world-class bubbles to rival Champagne and in some cases, dare I say it, outclass it.
The best way to learn about wine is to taste it, so here are a few of the biggest names in English sparkling wine that you absolutely need to know, along with some of their more exclusive, limited-edition wine offerings to seek out.
Jenkyn Place Blanc de Blancs 2015 – Hampshire
If you’re looking for quintessentially English charm, Jenkyn Place, owned by the Bladon family in the North Hampshire Downs, has it in spades. While the family has been making wine with the classic Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) since their first vines were planted in 2004, this ‘blanc de blancs’ (with sparkling wines, this usually means made with 100% Chardonnay) is the very first Chardonnay-only wine, thanks to the exceptional quality of the harvest; they didn’t want to blend it! Think ultra-fresh citrus balanced by ripe orchard fruit and shortbread notes with rich, creamy bubbles. An elegant English rose of a wine. RRP £38 from www.jenkynplace.com
Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2014 – Kent
As far as awards go, Charlie Holland, winemaker for Gusbourne, has been cleaning up over the past few years. Gusbourne’s wines are consistently excellent with a tell-tale purity that sets them apart from their peers. The blanc de blancs is the flagship wine of the estate, made with 100% Chardonnay and aged for at least forty two months on its lees (the dead yeast cells leftover from fermentation) to give biscuity notes and a rich, creamy texture. This 2014 has an incredibly complex palate packed full of candied fruit and notes of hazelnut and baked apple with a refreshing, mineral core. Fabulous. RRP £59 Gusbourne Website
Hattingley Valley King’s Cuvée 2013 – Hampshire
Another much-loved, family-owned winery in Hampshire that since the very early days have also been winning countless awards. The winemaking team lead by Emma Rice, often like to use a bit of oak for added spice, texture and toastiness and this extremely limited release is no exception. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, the wine was barrel fermented and then aged in oak, giving it a weighty feel and a palate rich with sweet spice, waxy lemon peel and fragrant, red apple skin notes. Will age beautifully. RRP £80 Hattingley Valley Website
Harrow & Hope Blanc de Noirs 2015 – Buckinghamshire
This bijou, family-run winery is still pretty new (just 7 years old), but wine has been in the blood of winemaker Henry Laithwaite his entire life. After travelling the world learning how to make it, Henry and his wife Kaye decided to settle back in England, finding an ideal spot in the Chiltern Hills to create their own world-class fizz. While still young, these wines have caught the attention of the top wine writers for their elegant purity and exceptional ageing potential. ‘Blanc de noirs’ means ‘white from black’, i.e. white wine made with black (red) grapes only, and while the 2015 is starting to open up now, with its cool minerality and tangy, red fruit notes and spice, if you lay it down for another year or so, you will see it truly blossom. RRP £38 from Harrowandhope.com
Pink English Fizz
Ambriel Rosé 2014 – Sussex
There’s something unique about the wines from Ambriel – a relative newcomer on the English wine scene. Based on the sunny South Downs in Sussex, Wendy and Charles Outhwaite have swapped a hectic, legal life for a slice of countryside heaven, complete with tiny sheep (ouessants) who graze between the vines during the winter. Ambriel bubbles have the class of champagne with an undeniable English accent thanks to a slightly unusual way of making sparkling wine, using skin contact rather than blending red wine with white. The result for The Ambriel Rosé 2014 is vibrant, ripe and juicy wine, packed with wild strawberry fruit and a moreish leafy aroma. Wendy describes it as ‘an English garden party in a glass’ and I wholeheartedly agree. I had to double-check the price as it’s worth twice this… RRP £26.95 from Corney & Barrow
Hambledon Premiere Cuvée Rosé – Hampshire
Hambledon, to my mind, have been leading the charge in Hampshire, if not the whole of England, with richer styles of sparkling wines that have been grabbing headlines. Having released their elegant, classic cuvée rosé last year to great applause, this year’s offering is a quirky, very limited edition of pink made with 100% Pinot Meunier – the grape that even in Champagne is usually only used in blends and even then, only in small quantities. Deep pink, almost red in fact, with an intriguing, smoked meat quality balanced by ripe, morello cherry notes, this sparkler is bone try with a wonderful sappy texture and toastiness. Beguiling and unique, you could easily match this with meat dishes too. Grab a bottle if you can find it! RRP £69 from Hambledon Vineyard Website