Words by Colin Hampden-White
Over the last decade, Japanese whisky has been growing in popularity all around the world to the extent that it would seem that it is a relatively new thing, but nothing could be further from the truth.
When was Japanese whisky first produced?
Japanese whisky distilling was started nearly one hundred years ago in 1923, by a man named Shinjiro Torri, and the whisky produced was called Yamazaki. Shinjiro had previously sent one of his employees, Masataka Taketsuru to Scotland to learn about distillation. He studied Chemistry at Glasgow University, and travelled in Scotland to distilleries, learning how to make whisky. One of these distilleries, which Helena, Aidy and I visited the former site of in episode five of The Three Drinkers do Scotch Whisky was Hazelburn in Campbeltown. Although Shinjiro Torri founded Yamazaki, it was Masataka’s skill that created the first Japanese whiskies.
What is the difference between Japanese and Scotch whisky?
Like Scotch, Japanese whisky has had its ups and downs, but over the years the quality of the spirit has become second to none. Although it is not Scotch, there are no differences in the basic principles in the production. There are some ambiguities over provenance though. Japanese whisky doesn’t by law have to be Japanese to be called Japanese. There has been a long history of blending whisky in Japan and one of the major components they use for blending is Scotch whisky. It is tricky therefore to know if you are buying true Japanese whisky or not. The simplest way to make sure is to buy single malt whisky from a named Japanese distillery, like Yamazaki, Yoichi or Hakushu. Here are some popular examples:
Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky Distiller’s Reserve
Size: US 750ml
ABV: 43%
Find here: $199.99
Is Japanese whisky good?
The fact that Scotch whisky is used in some blends doesn’t mean to say the whiskies are not good whiskies, this is far from the truth, they can be very good, but you won’t be drinking Scotch. One of the most popular brands of blended Japanese whiskies is Hibiki, but this whisky only uses Japanese whisky in the blend and is of exceptional quality.
Why is Japanese whisky so expensive?
Like many Japanese whiskies, Hibiki used to be sold with an age statement, but with the huge popularity of Japanese whisky these days, they no longer have the aged stocks. For those brands that do, they have very little left which explains the prices. You will find that a traditional 12 year old Scotch can be bought for around £30 to £40 pounds, whilst a 12 year old Yamazaki is four times that. Some Japanese whiskies, although not old can command even higher prices and this can quite often be down to the oak which is used to mature the spirit in. Most whiskies are matured in ex bourbon barrels made of oak or ex Sherry barrels made of oak. In Japan, they sometimes use a rare and difficult to grow Japanese oak called Mizunara. A notable blended whisky that uses this wood is Hibiki Japanese Harmony. Hibiki uses single malt whiskies from Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries and grain whisky from the Chita distillery. They use whiskies that have been matured in American oak, Sherry casks and also Mizunara oak. As the name suggests, the whisky is a harmony of many different flavours and is light and elegant with honey, oranges and a herbaceous element.
Hibiki Japnese Harmony
Size: UK 700ml // US 750ml
ABV: 43%
Find here: UK £69.95 // US $99.99
I think the above whisky is the best value for money if buying true Japanese whisky. However, if you have a special birthday coming, or just simply fancy pushing the boat out then Hibiki 30 year old is one of the greatest blended whiskies I have ever tasted.
Hibiki 30 year old
Size: 700ml
ABV: 43%
Find here: £5000
Like in Scotland there are closed distilleries in Japan and again, like in Scotland they have legendary status. None more so than Karuizawa distillery. Closed in the year 2000, bottles from this distillery will cost over £5,000 and in 2020 a bottle of 52 year old sold at auction for £363,000. If you fancy a bargain, you can find one over 30 years old here:
Karuizawa 34 Year Old Single Cask #6476
Size: 700ml
ABV: 63%
Find here: £6500
Whatever your budget, if you haven’t tried Japanese whisky before I strongly suggest you give it a go. It’s known, like the Japanese people, for its precision and elegance and is full of flavour. One of my favourite bottles is Nikka from the Barrel. A true Japanese whisky at a slightly higher than normal strength which packs in a lot of flavour. A great place to start a Japanese journey.
Nikka Whisky From the Barrel
Size: UK 500ml // US 750ml
ABV: 51.4%
Find here: UK £43.95 // US $89.99
There is a lot of hype around Japanese whisky, but from my experience, the hype is completely justified, as whisky distilled in Japan is absolute heaven.
If you enjoyed this then how about checking out these Traditional Japanese Drinks You HAVE To Try or if you would prefer to read more about Scotch whisky then check out The Best Scotch Whisky to Try This Year.