Words by Colin Hampden-White
Over the last few years, there has been a huge rise in the popularity of rye whisky. Not only from the USA but from all over the world. These Whiskies are not one-off oddities, they are truly great spirits and although they may not be American, they have all the flavour, complexity, and balance of their cousins across the Atlantic. And in some cases, even more so. I have recently found four which completely blew me away with their originality, flavour, and sheer deliciousness. There are two countries in particular that are creating fantastic rye whiskies, and two distilleries I think have been excelling over the last couple of years, Denmark and England.
Stauning
Stauning Rye
There are two Rye whiskies I have tried recently from Stauning and both of them were fabulous. Firstly, their main expression, Stauning Rye. It is made from Malted Danish barley and rye which is floor malted at the distillery. It is distilled on open fired stills and matured in new American oak barrels. The spirit has the typical spicy flavours one expects from rye, with a slight oiliness, but what stood out for me was the smoothness and balance. It is very easy to drink and is a sophisticated whisky, which rye quite often isn’t.
ABV: 48%
Size: 700ml
Price: £56.95
Stauning El Classico
Secondly, I tried the El Classico. This whisky started out as an experiment and ended up being absolutely brilliant. It is the first rye whisky to be matured in vermouth casks, and it is a match made in heaven. The casks give a perfect balance of bitter and sweet which makes this whisky incredibly versatile. I tried it neat at first, and then in a Manhattan and both were excellent. I am sure it would work very well in many whisky cocktails.
ABV: 45.7%
Size: 700ml
Price: £59.95
Moving from mainland Europe, I had a couple of favourites from an English distillery. This distillery is making whisky from ancient grains as there are so few places growing these grains. In fact, those that do are either making artisanal bread or growing for this distillery. Therefore, there is not a lot of grain and consequently not a lot of whisky. Made in annual batches, the last two batches have been particularly impressive.
The Oxford Artisan Distillery
Batch 4: The Graduate
The name of this whisky says it all. And boy has it graduated. The level of complexity for a young whisky is very good, and the balance of sweet fruit, oak and peppery rye is perfect. Rich enough to be sipped at leisure, it is also a great base for a cocktail, especially the king of rye cocktails, the Manhattan. This has been made with mostly rye, but also some heritage wheat, oats and even thistles! Aged in American oak casks of various sizes and toasting levels, it packs flavour and at 51.3% the flavour is delivered to the palate seamlessly.
ABV: 51.3%
Size: 700ml
Price: £89.95
Batch 5: Red Red Rye
The grain for this four year old whisky was harvested in 2017 and was made with a mash bill of 90% Maslin; a blend of 70% rye and 20% wheat which were grown in the same field a few miles from the distillery, and 10% malted barley. Adding to this complexity were three different cask types. It started life in two American oak ex-bourbon casks which were then married together into an ex-Pedro Ximenez Sherry butt. This was then split into two vintage Port barriques for the end of its maturation. As well as being complex and smooth, the batch has a deep red hue to the whisky from the Port barriques. It is rich in fruit, but still holds that peppery oily rye character. There were only 600 bottles produced and you can only buy them from the distillery shop.
ABV: 46.4%
Size: 700ml
Price: £150
There are plenty of other rye whiskies in Europe which are also very good and well worth a try. Two others to mention are Millstone in the Netherlands and Adnams Rye Malt from England. If you’d like to learn more about them and some of their American cousins, take a look at this article all about rye.