L’Atelier closed its famous two Michelin-starred Covent Garden site back in 2018, just nine months after the founder and one of the most decorated chefs of all time, Joël Robuchon, sadly passed away. Well, now it’s back.
Now in Mayfair, Italian born Andrea Cofini takes charge as Head Chef having previously headed up Robuchon Shanghai and the sister L’Atelier in Paris since joining in 2014, both of which hold two stars. Accomplished in the Robuchon style, the new Clarges Street L’Atelier carries the same three principles as before – excellence, simplicity, and consistency, principles that apply to every stage of dining here.
First, the hospitality, where from the first step into the restaurant to the last step leaving, the hospitality and attention to detail of the staff brings a friendly and peaceful feel to the countertop open kitchen experience. The charming art deco dining room is beautifully designed, but it’s the cuisine that is front and centre, and the absolute star of the show.
Classic French gastronomy meets touches of Asian influence from Cofini’s Shanghai stint. Expect to see kambu, seaweed, special vinegars and alike, as well as world renowned Robuchon favourites like the purée de pomme de terre, AKA the best mashed potato in the world, sea bream carpaccio and roast quail with foie gras. Seasonality is highly valued too, so expect an array of different dishes.
Let’s not forget that Robuchon bucked the trend in French fine dining with this theatrical chef’s workshop, where à la carte ordering isn’t frowned upon, and guests aren’t limited to the tasting menu. It is still very much there, with the Discovery menu offering a mouthwatering journey from caviar to lobster, to sea bass, right through to lemon and cucumber jelly and roasted figs with mascarpone foam. However, you could also opt Les Langoustines with langoustine ravioli, black truffle, and foie gras sauce, followed by Dover Sole and the simply named, Le Chocolate for dessert – with crémeux Araguani and cookie crumb. It’s an expansive selection, with the quality of a tiny, set menu.
Other Robuchon trademarks are back too, like the champagne trolley offering Laurent Perrier delights and even premium English bubbles, and the extraordinary breadbasket with salted brioche, bacon and mustard twists, squid ink rolls and more. Finally of course, the sommelier option is there and well worth going for, with beautiful pairings to elevate each dish to that next level, if that is even possible.
L'Atelier Robuchon is a dazzling and theatrical ride. As comfortable and perfectionist in uncomplicated flavours as it is in open-minded invention, it celebrates its award winning past but as always, looks to the future.
6 Clarges St, London W1J 8AE
robuchonlondon.co.uk/latelier
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