A look at two lesser known Côtes du Rhône ‘Cru’

Côtes du Rhône wine fans, listen up. Did you know that this fabulously reliable, versatile and value for money wine appellation (appellation means production area with rules) has different levels of brilliance? In this article, I explain the various quality levels of Côtes du Rhône wines, from the entry level Côtes du Rhône AOC, up through Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC to the top of the tree: the very special, Côtes du Rhône ‘Cru’.

In most Côtes du Rhône wines, the grapes are harvested from several villages. In the sixteen ‘Cru’ wines that exist however, the villages they are named after have been deemed so good that the grapes only come from there. I’ve talked about Rasteau AOC before here but it’s two of the other Cru that I got to wax lyrical about at a recent ‘Unexpected’ wine tasting: Cairanne AOC and Lirac AOC. Here’s what you need to know and a few to try.

Cairanne AOC and Lirac AOC

Cairanne and Lirac are the youngest and the oldest Cru in the Côtes du Rhône but they have a lot in common. First of all, they share an incredible community spirit, where winemaking is an integral part of just about everyone’s lives. Secondly, there is a huge focus on organic and sustainable farming, where the communities work together to ensure that the vineyards are still here and the wines enjoyed for generations to come. And thirdly, each appellation has a true love affair with its soils and ‘terroir*, knowing exactly what qualities each will give the final style of the wine. Sand? Well, that will add finesse. Large stone ‘galets’? Powerful wines! And chalk? It’s great for adding grip and tannins.

Cairanne

Known as the gateway to the southern Rhone from the North, Cairanne is the newest talent in the Cru pool, achieving its Cru status relatively recently in 2016. Located on rocky, sunny hills just on the left (East) bank of the river and to the north west of Vaucluse, this single village makes up the entire Cairanne appellation. It’s not hard to imagine why when you discover the Mediterranean climate with lots of sunshine and the cooling, drying Mistral winds, which keep the vines so healthy.

The wines of Cairanne

95% of the wines here are red, 5% are white and there is no pink at all! It stands to reason then that the reds are pretty serious. Favouring Syrah and lots of old vine Grenache and some Mourvèdre, the style of red wine here is full-bodied, velvety smooth, packed with red and black fruit and with a peppery finish. If you want to taste high class, classic, Rhône reds, Cairanne is where it is at.

The smaller amount of whites are made with the classic, white Rhône grapes: Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier as well as some Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc. They make wines that are elegantly textured with aromatics of blossom, pineapple and lime.

Lirac

Lirac is the oldest Cru, achieving its AOC Cru status in 1947. Located right down in the south of the appellation off the beaten track on the West (right) bank of the river, vines have been grown and appreciated here since ancient times. Despite its heritage though, this is no stuffy old region that ignores change; It’s the funky, wise-old man of the Rhone! Modern winemaking meets old traditions here in the best way and a new generation of producers are innovating all the time.

The wines of Lirac

Lirac does make rosé wine, but not a huge amount. 87% of wines here are red, followed by 10% white and just 3% pink. The reds here are more powerful and round than those of Lirac with a kick of spicy red fruit. The whites here are beautifully intense, yet refreshing; perfumed and tropical with lots of acacia and apricot notes. The grapes used in Lirac are the usual suspects: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with a whack of Cinsault in places for the reds and for whites, Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc.

Unlike Cairanne, Lirac uses grape from across four communes in the Gard with exceptional terroirs including Roquemaure, Saint Laurent-des-Arbres and Saint-Géniès-de-Comolas.

Try these wines from Cairanne and Lirac to get a feel for both Cru:

Cairanne White: Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Castel- Mireio Blanc 2018

A full blend of Viognier, Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc and Grenache, this is an elegantly complex wine with stunning, peach blossom aromatics and a lovely weight to it. Perfect with poultry and creamy sauces.

Find it at Carte du Vin for £17.75

Lirac white: Chateau d’Aqueria Blanc 2019

Château d’Aqueria is most famous for its dark pink wines from neighbouring Tavel but it chose Lirac for its whites. Another blend of all the key white grapes, this is an exotic white with an intoxicating, floral aroma. Rich in flavour but not heavy, this is an ideal wine for food, especially nutty hard cheese or creamy, cow's milk cheese.

Find it at Old Bridge Wines for £18

Cairanne Red: Domaine Roche Cairanne, 2019

Rich in fresh, dark fruit flavours with hints of spice, cedar and thyme, this is a silky, food-friendly red that’s fantastic value for money. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan from vines in conversion to becoming biodynamic, Domaine Roche is a name to watch.

Find it at Lea and Sandeman for £18.95

Lirac Red: Lirac, Les Closiers, Ogier 2019

For the money, this red really over delivers. Think powerful, bramble fruit with baking spice and fresh pastry notes. It’s bold and velvety, yet not at all austere. Made with a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and a splash of Cinsault, this has Christmas and Sunday roasts all over it.

Find it at M&S for £10 a bottle when bought as a six.

Want a beginner’s guide to the Côtes du Rhône? Click here!