Words by Colin Hampden-White
Covid 19 has created some real problems for the world of wines and spirits. With hospitality having been shut down, and with fewer people shopping on the high street, businesses are under a lot of pressure. With the travel ban in the UK only allowing us to travel if we have to, many tourist sites are closed.
The distilleries keep on distilling; however, the distillery shops and visitor centres have been closed. There are some advantages for the whisky lover that this is the case. Distilleries often sell whisky in their distillery shops which cannot be bought anywhere else. This is a sort of reward for those venturing to visit the distillery. These bottles can be very special, ranging from bottles you can fill yourself (hand-fill bottles as they are known) as at Aberfeldy or Glenfiddich, to limited editions such as those created by Lagavulin and Oban. There are also occasionally single cask, cask strength bottles created, and it is a set of those I am particularly excited about.
Every now and again there are single cask, cask strength bottles created by Chivas to show off their single malt distilleries and these are sold in their shop at the Strathilsa distillery. Recently eight bottles have been created and, as we can’t visit the distillery shop to buy them, Chivas have opened their shop to everyone and are selling these unique expressions online.
There are four very different expressions from the Strathisla distillery itself, and four rare expressions from Strathclyde, Braeval, Glenkeith and Longmorn.
Strathisla 13 Year Old 1st Fill Barrel
This is a perfect place to start. Strathisla is at the heart of the Chivas blend, and this cask gives sweet aromas and flavours of honey and vanilla. There are also sweet meadow floral notes and a core of fresh orchard fruits like apple and pear. For a whisky at a high ABV, it is smooth and satisfying and opens up a little with a drop of water. Being non-chill filtered and un-coloured, at £65 this single cask bottle is great value and if you are venturing out into the world of single cask bottles, a great place to start.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 57.1%
Find here: £65
Strathisla 13 Year Old 1st Fill Butt
We then come to another 13 year old Strathisla. This has been matured in a first fill sherry butt which shows perfectly the different flavour a sherry cask gives to spirit in comparison to the ex-bourbon cask and it is only a little higher in ABV at 59%. One can see from the colour alone that this is a very different whisky from the first. This whisky gives up aromas and flavours that are rich and robust with lots of dried fruits like raisins and figs with spices of cinnamon, nutmeg and a touch of cardamom giving balance and interest. The spices continue well into the finish which is very long and dry. At £75 this is a great introduction to sherry cask maturation and when tried with the previous whisky, it is a great education into the differences between ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 59%
Find here: £75
Strathisla 16 Year Old 1st Fill Barrel
With the third offering, we have a little more age added to maturation in a first fill ex-bourbon barrel at 53.5%. This whisky shows the advantages of age, and has even more vanilla smoothness that the 13 year old. There is extra fruitiness too, with not only orchard fruits but tropical fruits coming into the mix. The honey flavours are a little more complex and the vanilla flavours develop into a creamy vanilla toffee fudge which persists right through to the finish. With extra age there are a few more pounds, but still great value at £85.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 53.5%
Find here: £85
Strathisla 16 Year Old 2nd Fill Butt
The last of the Strathisla whiskies is another 16 year old expression at 62.6%. Using sherry butts which have been used once before, this high strength dram has lots of power but also has great complexity from the sherry cask. The balance created by using a second fill cask is clearly evident and the wood notes don’t overpower the spirit. There are lots of toasted oak flavours and nuts like hazelnut and oily walnuts. The spices are root spices like ginger and there is a touch of pepper in the background too. These strong flavours are all in harmony and although the ABV is very high, the whisky has a gentle laid-back character. With sherry butts costing nearly ten times the price of an ex-bourbon barrel, this is a steal at £90.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 62.6%
Find here: £90
Strathclyde 12 Year Old 1st Fill Barrel
Blends are of course made up from both malt whisky and grain whisky, and it is a grain whisky Chivas have released in their fifth bottle of the collection. It is from the Strathclyde distillery. It is a 12 year old matured in a first fill ex-bourbon barrel and bottled at 62.2%. This whisky has a delicate body and is very smooth for a youngish grain whisky. For such a high ABV this is quite soft and has a creamy mouthfeel. There are floral and citrus aromas and flavours and touches of clear runny honey which persist all the way to the finish. This whisky gives an idea of the character needed to be the backbone of a great blended whisky. It is delicate enough not to overpower the malts and bold enough to allow the malt whisky flavours to shine. This whisky is only £45 and is a great way to experience grain whisky by itself.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 62.2%
Find here: £45
Braeval 17 Year Old 1st Fill Barrel
We now move onto more unusual whiskies little seen as single malt. To make up a good blend many single malts are used to give great complexity and harmony. This single malt is Braeval (also known as Braes of Glenlivet). It is a seventeen year old whisky matured in a first fill ex-bourbon barrel and bottled at 56.4%. This whisky has the typical Speyside flavours of apples and pears which are joined by toffee and tropical fruits. These flavours are sweet and the dram has a very moreish quality. A great way to explore the single malts of Speyside further and taste a whisky with a slightly different character. With this whisky rarely seen as a single malt, like the whiskies before it represents good value for a rarity at £95.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 56.4%
Find here: £95
Longmourn 20 Year Old 2nd Fill Butt
The penultimate whisky is one of my favourite distilleries in Speyside. It is a 20 year old Longmorn matured in a second fill sherry cask and bottled at 55.2%. With such a long time in cask, this whisky is complex and luxurious. The spices are subdued with sweeter flavours persisting. Almonds and toffee mix with sweet pear juice and dark chocolate, and there is a little manuka honey in the background. There is also a touch of ginger in the finish which becomes drier and spicier after a while. This is not a cheap whisky, but then it shouldn’t be, at 20 years old it is £175 and worth every penny.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 55.2%
Find here: £175
Glen Keith 22 Year Old First Fill Barrel
Lastly, we come to a distillery that had a change in its history. Glen Keith closed down in 1999 very soon after this whisky was distilled and was not re-opened until 2013 after a huge refurbishment programme. That makes this 22 year old whisky rather rare, and as the old distillery processes no longer exist we will not see the likes of it again. It was matured in a first fill ex-bourbon barrel and bottled at 49.5%. It is a sweet whisky with a zesty side to it. Honey and vanilla creams mix well with fresh orchard fruits and a little tinned peach and dried apricots. It is very smooth and satisfying and one of the best examples of Glen Keith at around this age I have tasted. It is £165 which I think is very good for a single cask, cask strength rare whisky at 22 years old and bottled by the proprietor.
Size: 500ml
ABV: 49.5%
Find here: £165
Although all these whiskies are great to try by themselves, as a collective they show the breadth of flavours that make up the Chivas blend, and the costs have been kept down by creating 50cl bottles rather than 70cl. And if you can’t buy all eight of them, I’d certainly get one ex-bourbon and one ex-sherry to try side by side, especially if you want to understand the role of a blender in Scotch whisky.
For more whisky goodness check out 5 Epic Chocolate and Whisky Pairings or Around the World in Six Whiskies.