You may currently only know mezcal as ‘that smoky tequila with the worm in’, but today we are here to bust misconceptions on this intriguing drink and educate the world on what mezcal really is.
Where is mezcal made?
Mezcal is produced in nine different states in Mexico. The vast majority comes from Oaxaca, with the rest coming from the Durango, Guanajuato, Guerrero, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Michoacán and Puebla states. It is still mostly made by small-scale producers in tiny distilleries and its production is steeped in tradition, often being a family affair, with methods being passed down from generation to generation.
What is mezcal made from?
Unlike tequila which can only be made from the blue agave plant, mezcal can be produced from many different varieties, as well as blends of more than one agave. The most commonly used agave are Espadín, Tobalá, Arroqueño, Tepeztate and Tobaziche.
How is mezcal made?
When an agave plant is fully mature, which can take anything from 8-15 years if not longer, it is harvested, and the piña located in the centre of the agave is cut away from the roots and leaves of the plants and brought back to be roasted.
Traditionally the agave is slowly roasted in an earthen pit oven which is usually lined with rocks that are heated by wood. The piñas are piled into these pits and sometimes reach up to 5 or 6 feet above ground level. This mound is then covered with leaves and earth to keep in the heat and the piña are left to roast. Some, but not many, mezcal producers cook their piñas in ovens above ground heated using gas, wood or steam and a few mezcal producers even cook the piñas in stainless steel ovens with steam, but this is a much more industrial way to produce mezcal.
Once cooked, the piñas are removed from the oven and crushed to release the juice and sugars. The crushing method varies from producer to producer, some use a tahona, a stone wheel drawn by a horse, donkey or tractor, whereas other producers crush the piñas by hand with mallets or put them through a wood-chipper.
How is mezcal fermented?
Once crushed, it is time for fermentation. The container for fermentation varies, but the tanks are usually made from either stone, steel, wood or animal hide. Often, at this point, water is added to the crushed piña and this mix is then left to ferment, however, temperature variations mean different methods need to be used in different areas, for example, in San Luis Potosi and Durango, agave juice is used to kick start fermentation.
How is mezcal distilled?
The liquid from the fermentation process is then moved to the stills. Stills are usually made from either copper, clay or stainless steel and are traditionally wood-fired. Mezcal must be distilled twice to meet regulations although some producers distill it a third time for extra smoothness. When bottled, you may find some mezcals (usually industrially produced) come with a worm, however, this is not traditional. There has been much debate over why the worm has been added to mezcal bottles, though many put it down to a marketing ploy.
Aging mezcal
Some mezcals are aged before being bottled, giving them a different colour and flavour due to the barrels they are aged in. The aging classifications are:
Joven: Unaged or aged for less than 2 months.
Reposado: Aged for between 2-12 months.
Añejo: Aged for 1-3 years.
Extra Añejo: Aged for 3 years or more.
A further and much more common form of aging is Madurado en Vidrio which refers to mezcal that has been stored in glass containers for over 12 months. This method traditionally took place underground but these days is also allowed to occur in warehouses that have good temperature control. The glass aging allows the spirit to mellow slowly without evaporation and also without taking on any extra flavours from oak.
How is mezcal drunk?
In Mexico, mezcal is mostly drunk neat or over ice and is often accompanied by citrus fruits such as oranges, lemons and limes. In the US and Europe, however, mezcal is swiftly making its way into many cocktails. Try a Mezcal Old Fashioned - it’s a smoky delight!
Which Mezcal Should I try?
Pensador Mezcal
Pensador Mezcal is produced by Don Atenogenes and his family in Oaxaca, using a combination of the espadín and madrecuishe agave. It has notes of roasted apricot, black pepper, citrus and an oak-y smoke.
ABV: 48%
Size: 500ml
Find here: £39.20
Dangerous Don Joven Mezcal
Produced exclusively from the espadín agave, this mezcal is a smoky, fresh spirit with the sweetness from the agave coming through and subtle notes of citrus. Try this in a Mezcal Old Fashioned - you won’t regret it!
ABV: 45%
Size: 700ml
Find here: £43.90
Ilegal Reposado
Made in Mexico's Oaxaca region, this mezcal is twice distilled in copper stills before being aged in American oak. On the nose, it has slightly woody, caramel-like aromas and on the palate, you’ll find notes of butterscotch, caramel and soft smoke. Yum!
ABV: 40%
Size: 700ml
Find here: £58.90
Ilegal Añejo
Another delicious treat from the Ilegal company, this añejo mezcal is also twice distilled in copper stills. It has hints of honey and soft smoke on the nose and to taste has lots of herbal notes with a floral and slightly salty hint. Drink this one neat or over ice to get the most out of it.
ABV: 40%
Size: 700ml
Find here: £75.10
Has all this mezcal talk got you thinking about tequila too? If so, take a look at The World’s Best Sipping Tequilas or The Top Celebrity Owned Tequilas.