Greek wines from both the mainland and the islands are becoming ever more popular as people return from their holidays having tasted some pretty special sips. Quality has skyrocketed over recent years and we are now starting to see more Greek wines on the shelves in our supermarkets and indies as well as on restaurant lists. Santorini seems to be leading the way with its zesty, foodie, white wines made from the Assyrtiko grape, so is well worth a closer look. Here is your ABC guide to the PDO white wines of Santorini with some to try…
What and where?
Santorini is a small archipelago of Greek, volcanic islands in the southern Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece, though "Santorini" is commonly used to refer to the largest and most famous island of the group.
Ancient history
Proof of winemaking on the island has been found dating back to 20-30 centuries BC with some important findings from the bronze age. This is why the island is described as a ‘living museum’ with the oldest, uninterrupted vine cultivation in the world. The community is working towards earning Santorini UNESCO status to safeguard its vines and practices.
Assyrtiko: Queen of Grapes
There are 64 wine grapes on the island of which 59 are known. However, only 3 of them are allowed in the PDO: Protected Designation of Origin, which ensures the highest quality in the wines. The hero grape is Assyrtiko - a white grape indigenous to Santorini. It has a vibrant yellow, thick skin and makes gastronomic wines that keep their freshness and acidity despite the heat and relatively high alcohol levels. Assyrtiko wines tend to be delicately aromatic, citrussy and very saline. They’re often aged on their lees (dead yeast cells) and see some bâtonnage (lees stirring) to add a richer, creamier texture.
Labour intensive, unique viticulture
Santorini is super hot, exceedingly dry and very windy with infertile, volcanic soils. The subsoil is just over 60% pumice with very shallow, loose ‘volcanic dirt’ over the top. Pumice works well to save water here and black lava stones absorb heat away from the vines. To combat the heat and wind and to maximise the water that comes almost entirely from the morning mists, vines are trained into circular, nest shapes called ‘koulouras’.
Ungrafted vines
On the plus side, there are no pests to contend with and very little disease as the environment is so harsh. This also means that vines here are immune to the phylloxera louse, so they remain ungrafted, with some roots said to be centuries old. These old vines have incredibly deep roots and give the wines dramatically low yields. The result is more concentrated, particularly mineral wines of top quality.
PDO Santorini
PDO Santorini: Wines must be 85% Assyrtiko, with the rest made up of Aidani and Aithiri, which are softer and more aromatic. The best wines are said to be always made from 100% Assyrtiko. If the label just says Assyrtiko, it’s not PDO Santorini.
PDO Santorini ‘Nykteri’: Nyketri means ‘working all through the night’ as grapes were harvested in the small hours to keep them cooler. The expression now refers to oaked versions of these white wines, where the oak mabe older and larger to add more texture than flavour or newer for a more oaky taste. Whichever style, Nkyteri wines offer a lot of structure and are often described as ‘white wines that drink like red’.
PDO Santorini Vinsanto: These are sweet, late harvest wines that must be made with at least 80% Assyrtiko. They are dried in the sun and fermented very slowly in open vats before being aged in wooden barrels for at least 2 years. The result is moreish, sweet wines that are well balanced and fresh with notes of toffee, mocha, nuts and caramel. They love chocolate and cheese!
Modern Versus Traditional Styles
There has been lots of work in recent years to up the quality in all PDO Santorini wines to showcase the purity of the varietal. Since 2016 particularly, there has been a huge quality push with Assyrtiko becoming more premium, dry, steely, fresh and pure in style. Producers are being incentivised to keep their vines and not sell the land for tourism, so they are being paid much larger amounts for their yields. In turn, this has meant that much more attention is being paid to the winemaking process. There used to be a lot more residual sugar allowed in for example and styles really varied a lot with many Nykteri wines particularly being more oxidative, like a fino Sherry.
PDO Santorini wines to try
Sigalas Santorini PDO Assyrtiko, 2021
£33 from Maltby & Greek
Santo Nykteri PDO Assyrtiko-Athiri-Aidani, 2021
£28.50 from Maltby & Greek
Estate Argyros Vinsanto First Release, 2015
£39.90 from 8Wines