The team at DRINKLUSIVE have teamed up with the wonderful people from Fattoria La Vialla, a gorgeous family owned and operated, organic-biodynamic farm based in Tuscany, Italy. The team at the farm follows the motto of Nonna Caterina “Metti bon, cava bon!” which translates to “Put good in, get good out!”.
And good is indeed what these guys get out! The farm boasts an incredible portfolio of wines and on top of that, a rich selection of olive oil, cheese, sauces, pastas, vinegars, honey, biscuits and various antipasti!
As the world around us becomes increasingly fast-paced with a focus on mass production and profit margins, Fattoria La Vialla offers a refreshing reprieve with a strong focus on small batch, high quality wines and organic produce.
With consumers becoming more discerning day by day, turning their heads to sustainable, biodynamic produce, the portfolio of the farm is a great option for those who want to feel closer to the place their food and drink is coming from, and their unfiltered wines shine through as the star of the show!
What is Unfiltered Wine?
Without oversimplifying it, unfiltered wine is exactly what it says. Large batch, commercially produced wines often go through a double filtration process, the first run straining off lees and other particles, and the second “absolute” one to remove any yeast and microorganisms.
This does not mean, however, that unfiltered wine is always cloudy. Unfiltered wine is bottled in two ways: either the wine is bottled with its yeast, as is often the case with white wine, and the particles of sediment are willingly moved from the bottom of the tanks with a “battonage” before being bottled with the wine, or, for a clear, transparent “look” to the wine, which is often the case for red wines, instead of filtering, the wine is left to rest in tanks or oak barrels to allow the sediment to naturally settle at the bottom before it is “racked”, or syphoned, into a fresh vessel without disturbing the sediment, thereby removing the majority of the sediment in the wine. Racking a wine may seem like a complex process but it is deceptively simple and is a common practice for many a home brewer.
But what difference does not filtering a wine make? Scientifically, the remaining yeasts naturally protect the wine from oxidation, which gives the winemaker the ability to significantly lower the amount of added sulfites to keep the wine stable. In addition, not filtering leaves all the flavor components in the wine as the aromas are also not being filtered meaning the less you filter the more you taste. Finally, and as is more so the case when bottled “cloudy”, the yeast increases the wine’s body and smoothness, and the remaining mannoproteins create a ‘sweeter’ sensation. While this is what science dictates, how often does the human palate listen to science?
I personally found the unfiltered wines from Fattoria La Vialla to be more rich, complex, and layered when compared to their filtered counterparts from the same winery - not to say one is superior to the other, but they achieve different goals. In fact, the unfiltered wines in their portfolio always seemed to strike a perfect balance of zingy fresh notes and the more moody and complex flavours of nuts, leather, and mushrooms.
The omission of the filtration process may not remove yeast and microbacteria, but it as it prevents flavour compounds from being sifted out in the process, it definitely results in more robust, expressive wines.
While unfiltered wines are a great option for the discerning drinker, it is a slightly riskier game to play than imbibing on the filtered options. The reason is the lack of filtration itself. While racking the wine removes the majority of the sediment and often results in beautiful crystal-clear wines, racking cannot remove the micro-bacterial particles that the second run of filtration does, and hence can increase the risk of spoilage within the bottle.
Wineries can undertake various measures to ensure that this is prevented. Hygiene and extra care are paramount to making a clean unfiltered wine. An additional option is to subject the wine to a second fermentation, called Malolactic fermentation, in which winemakers can add, or as in La Vialla’s case, rely on the natural presence of, a bacteria called Oenococcus Oeni, which alongside other strains will eat the malic acid in the wine and transform it into milder, softer lactic acid in the process.
This might sound complicated, but it is quite simple to understand. Malic acid is primarily found in granny smith apples, peaches, and other orchard fruit, which enhances the zingy fruity flavours in wines. While lactic acid is found in creams, butters, cheeses, and soy products which generally have a more creamy, buttery profile.
This process often results in a change in flavour profile of the wine in accordance with the acid basket in the wine, going from bright and zingy, with notes of fresh apples, peaches and pears to almost notes of nuts and dried fruits.
The other option to prevent in-bottle spoilage for unfiltered wines is to dose the wine with sulphites as a stabiliser, but high levels of sulphites come with the risk of headaches and alienating those sensitive to sulphur. The organic biodynamic winemakers of La Vialla add the bare minimum necessary, keeping the amount of sulfites way under the Demeter requested limits, but enough to still enable the wine to be nice to drink in a couple of years.
How do you drink unfiltered wines?
As the majority of unfiltered wines are already clear at the time of bottling, you can drink them the same way you would drink your usual grape-based tipple. A nice trick a mentor informed me of is what she calls “the 20/20 rule”. Keep reds in the fridge 20 minutes prior to serving and remove whites and bubbles from the fridge 20 minutes before serving.
In the event of an unfiltered wine still having sediment (often by design), there are a couple of options: in the case of a white wine, if the sediment is very fine, lightly shake the bottom of the bottle to mix the yeast with the rest of the wine and enjoy the wine with its rich yeast. However, if the sediments are not that “smooth”, as is often the case with red wines, mixing them in the wine can lead to a slightly unpleasant texture to those not used to it. A great option, as old as time, is to decant the wine before serving. Pouring the bottle slowly into the decanter should allow the sediment to remain caught in the shoulder of the bottle, and then again, pouring slowly from the decanter into the glass should allow any residual sediment to remain in the decanter.
If you are planning your unfiltered wine drinking in advance, you can also leave your bottle upright for between 1 and 48 hours to ensure any sediment settles to the bottom of the bottle.
What food can you pair with unfiltered wines?
Pairing food with natural unfiltered wines, takes a slightly different approach to the traditional method. Unfiltered wines normally come with a spiked dose of acidity and more pronounced tannins, and these need to be accounted for, because as delicious as these characteristics can be, they can also serve as an obstacle when considering food pairings. Think of this not a hindrance however, but as an exciting challenge to try something unique, and to learn something new while you imbibe
When looking at pairing food and wine, or even just flavours in general, a good rule of thumb is what grows together, goes together. And what better winery to use this approach with than Fattoria La Vialla! Offering so much more than just wine, utilising their array of edible options to pair with their wine is a no-brainer!
On top of seasonality and locality allowing for flavours to complement and contrast each other excellently, I have always enjoyed the grows together goes together approach as it gives me a much deeper sense of closeness to the place from which I am eating and drinking produce!
When accounting for boosted acidity and tannins, one must look towards foods that balance out these elements. High acidity and tannic wines often pair brilliantly with foods high in acidity, and/or fattiness and creaminess. Good examples of this are the Casa Quaranta 2020 with its rich smooth tannin, which pairs beautifully with a hearty ragu pasta dish, or a slow cooked beef stew, and the Barriccato Bianco I.G.T. 2022 with its medium high acidity pairing incredibly well with pan fried fish, or even a rich spicy curry! (More on these very shortly!)
Great examples of unfiltered wines
Now that we have broken down what unfiltered wines are, what they taste like compared to their filtered companions, and why they taste different, we can focus on answering the really important questions, such as, which bottles should I get for myself?
Well, look no further! All of the wines that come out of this stunning farmland are knock-your-socks-off delicious, but here are my top picks!
Barriccato Bianco I.G.T. 2022
A mix of Chardonnay and Viognier, this wine was the first unfiltered wine by Fattoria La Vialla and is aged in oak with its yeasts, which make it all the way into the bottle. This golden-yellow wine has a rich nose, with aromas of fruit preserve, lingering tropical fruits such as passionfruit and pineapple, and all seasoned with vanilla. There is also a champagne-esque biscuity-ness to the nose which makes me imagine the most delicate fruit tart when sipping on this wine!
On the palate you are welcomed with a rich creaminess and full-bodied flavours reminiscent of a granola and yoghurt breakfast! This is a very well-rounded wine which is as delicious on its own as it is paired with a dish!
Size: 750ml
ABV: 14.5%
Price: £11.25
Torbolino Non Filtrato 2023
This bottle is a peach smoothie in a wine glass! What’s not to love? A beautiful straw-yellow that looks even better in the sunlight with a moody rust-orange colour the closer you get to the bottom of the bottle where the lees are sitting
The nose boasts peaches & cream on a summer day, with a hint of grassiness. There is also the trademark nuttiness and creaminess of the aforementioned malolactic fermentation. With a grape blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Sauvignon Blanc, imagine a nose halfway between a Sauternes and an Amontillado.
On the palate, you are almost punched in the face with creamy peach, the ever-so-slightest touch of acidity and an essence of sweetness coming from the residual yeasts in the bottle.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Price: £9.55
Casa Quaranta 2020
Being the largest, and most expensive bottle on this list, it is one to keep for an occasion, or to use as an excuse to host a dinner party!
This special bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is fermented in terracotta amphoras for 22 days with occasional manual crushing before being racked and undergoing malolactic fermentation. After this, it is then aged for 24 months in new oak barriques, then blended and bottled in magnums unfiltered
This wine reaches your glass in a deep just off opaque ruby red colour with a hint of purple you would see in a moody sunset. On the nose, the fresh oak offers a hint of vanilla which seasons a beautifully rich and complex bouquet. Sweet baking spice, stone fruits, and dark fruits dominate the aromas with hints of vegetality. The alcohol and cherry aromas marry together to remind me of whisky soaked cherries.
The palate has a little bit of a kick to it from the alcohol, but is balanced out by its silky texture, and smooth tannic finish. It lingers on the tongue almost stubbornly.
Size: 1500ml
ABV: 15%
Price: £46.80
Pinot Nero Casa Rossa I.G.T. 2017
Want a red that does not need a meal in accompaniment? This is your bottle! A beautiful clear, yet deep garnet colour with all your typical Pinot Nero aromas cranked up to the nines with extra surprises. Pronounced maraschino cherry, plum jam, and liquorice woodiness, with a bonus tahini earthiness and a mix of light vanilla and smoke that is reminiscent of very light tobacco.
The palate is super soft but creeps up on you the more you sip, with each sip being more expressive than the last! This can be attributed to its super-mild tannins and lingering quality, almost like it has not even left before it comes back again.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Price: £24.95
Barriccato 2020
If the Pinot Nero Casa Rossa was a wine to drink on its own, this Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon mix is one that shines its brightest when paired with a meal. This deep, rich, grippy wine comes out a deep purplish-red and moves in the glass almost like a syrup, with legs that look like raindrops trickling down a car window
The nose is a rich mix of cinnamon and clove spice, vanilla, and dark berry jam, and hugs the palate as you sip. The palate offers so much that a bite of a hearty dish in between sips even offers a reprieve! The rich tannins dry out your mouth amplifying the profile of the wine, with an aftertaste lingering so long that it feels like a guest that you do not want to leave as you are enjoying their company just that much!
Size: 750ml
ABV: 13.5%
Price: £12.75
Casal Duro I.G.T. 2019
This wine is one that I would serve to a large group of varying levels of experience in wine. Approachable enough for the novices to enjoy, with enough complexity for the intermediate to experts to unravel as they sip.
The wine sits in the glass clear at the top and opaquer as you look further towards the base of the glass. The nose opens up with a blend of spices you would find in subcontinental desserts, before moving into a green bell pepper vegetality and a lingering fruitiness of dark berries.
The palate is tannic and rich, but elegant at the same time. The body is well-structured, and a slight hint of oak just takes it up that extra notch. This wine would benefit from decantation and would not be out of place in the middle of a table atop which a Sunday roast beef is displayed.
Size: 750ml
ABV: 15%
Price: £16.55
If you’re looking for some ‘what grows together, goes together’ wine-food pairing ideas, look no further than these stunning wine and pasta pairings!
By Fowwaz Ansari
